So I'm learning to surf

[jipstyle]

Hehe, if you only knew how much climbing I've done - countless days, countless mountains. More than anything else really. But not with ropes, with my skis on my back. And it seems I'm using my legs for all of that. There's a climbing wall at the rec center and I guess I could try hauling myself up it with my arms the same way I'm swimming with only my arms to get them stronger.

I do hit the deck and bust out 15 pushups whenever it occurs to me.

I've finally made the transition to skiing and climbing my beloved Colorado mountains and it's a happy groove. The beach seems very far away right now.

Heh ... I guess I should have been more specific.

[carpathian]

I've been in Lahaina about 6 days now. Bought 2006 Dodge caravan, 9' long board and 12'6' SUP.

Caught about 20 waves on SUP today. Ate shit a bunch, skittered off reef a few times, saw serious bikinis up close...

In short, I am addicted.

[tgray]

but, have you discovered Leotta's cafe for post session grinds?

[carpathian]

but, have you discovered Leotta's cafe for post session grinds?

Oh do tell, I keep waking up at 5 and it is dark for another hour. I figure i am on the 20 year learn to surf program, any bit of info helps!

[tgray]

Leotta's cafe/bakery; head south toward Kihei, at Olowalu general store pullout to the left Leotta's is on the south end of the building, best food around after a surf session try one of the pot pies, beef, chicken or vegetarian, but the pastries are killer, depending on the swell direction the surfing in that area can be fun too!, A little envious here, In another hour I'm going to be up on a roof helping a buddy, sheath and getting his house "dried in " icy and cold, my mantra is " 30 days and I'll be in Maui,,, 30 days,,,,30 days,,,30 days

[shera]

I've been in Lahaina about 6 days now. Bought 2006 Dodge caravan, 9' long board and 12'6' SUP.

Caught about 20 waves on SUP today. Ate shit a bunch, skittered off reef a few times, saw serious bikinis up close...

In short, I am addicted.

Haha, you'll get used to the bikinis I guess. It's just no big deal having your ass hanging out all day. It's kinda funny when you see these random tourist chicks with their strange getups that show some awkwardness about the state of their thighs or stomachs or whatever.

Where are you surfing?

Honestly I'm happy to be in the cold again and at high altitude. Bracing! But I'm watching my awesome tan fade and fade. Gonna start all over again next year with nothing but a goggle tan.

[carpathian]

Haha, you'll get used to the bikinis I guess. It's just no big deal having your ass hanging out all day. It's kinda funny when you see these random tourist chicks with their strange getups that show some awkwardness about the state of their thighs or stomachs or whatever.

Where are you surfing?

Honestly I'm happy to be in the cold again and at high altitude. Bracing! But I'm watching my awesome tan fade and fade. Gonna start all over again next year with nothing but a goggle tan.

Three hours building concrete forms, an hour in the DMV and four more hours at Launepoko. Not bad for a day! It is the home break i guess, we are three minutes up the hill. The board is actually an 11'6". 20x waves knee to waist high brah!

Is counting waves cool? What about aqua socks on the sup? Mixing gay with gay to much? Seriously they seem like a good idea in the super shallow, rocky water. But I suppose you should not be crashing in the first place...

[Crampedon]

Check in Maggots at the TGR outpost in Kahului.

Free expresso's!

Look for the "Believe" sticker

[shera]

Three hours building concrete forms, an hour in the DMV and four more hours at Launepoko. Not bad for a day! It is the home break i guess, we are three minutes up the hill. The board is actually an 11'6". 20x waves knee to waist high brah!

Is counting waves cool? What about aqua socks on the sup? Mixing gay with gay to much? Seriously they seem like a good idea in the super shallow, rocky water. But I suppose you should not be crashing in the first place...

Launiupoko! I'm jealous. It really was a pain not having a car last summer. Not the arbiter of cool, but I counted waves for sure. As far as reef shoes, I bought some, but never really used them. to carry. Less is more. I did cut my feet open on the coral and you have to take that very seriously or it will not heal. Go to the nearest hose and flush out every bit of whatever's in there. Then neosporin and seal it up with bandaids. Repeat every time you get out of the water. At night clean it and use peroxide to dry it out, don't use a bandaid at night after the first night.

Everybody crashes. The coral will get you. I saw plenty of people with wounds that just wouldn't heal. So scary. One chick went to the hospital for a week with something called Mercers(?) that antibiotics couldn't respond to.

[carpathian]

3 months in, 3 to go. Air temp 82, water temp 75, beer temp 35. 85 days or so in the water. Traded the 11'6' Coreban for 10' naish 32" wide. Bought 10' Second Wind 26" shred stick. Learning, learning with the occasional wave punch in the face. Searching for the rogue gnarlers, watch for sea turtles!

Dropping!



Just kidding here I am on typical wave...







I still get a kick out of sitting in the AC and then forgetting how hot it is outside...

[Ottime]

If you learn to surf in just 20 years, then you are doing good. With our current lack of cold and fluff, I wish I was in the warmth, surfing in trunks and being distracted by thigh bits on touristas in their awk bikinis. Sounds like the good life to me

[Beaver]

I tried surfing for the first time in Costa Rica a couple weeks ago at Playa Grande. I popped up and stayed up to the beach on the first foam pile I tried. After about 1/2 hour I caught a wave and was hooked. Then I was paddling like mad for a wave and my shoulder gave out (partial disco). Surf instructor gave it a yank and it popped back into place and I kept going. I caught about 3 more green waves and popped my shoulder out 3 more times over the next hour. I should have stopped after the first time but was too keen (stupid) to catch more waves. My shoulder was slightly out of place for the next 2 days until I went zip lineing and it gave a little pop and felt much better. Time to start doing some shoulder work to make it strong enough for this sport cause it is a fucking gas.

My 3 daughters were stoked too. My oldest managed to pick it up fairly well but surprisingly the to family athlete wasn't that good at it. It was good to see my book worm daughter out getting at it.

[shera]

I've been throwing down pushups whenever it occurs to me. No gym time required. I'm also doing handstands against the wall and trying to do those pushups. So hard - started with maybe just an inch drop and now down to about 4". My son can put his head on the ground and come all the way up. I'm also swimming laps when I can, for like half an hour.

Hoping that gives me a head start on the summer. Last year was a pathetic sh!tshow.

So are you going to dedicate to surfing? It is so fun, but it sure does require a lot of time in the water. Well for me anyway - slowest learner of all time.

[neufox47]

Just got my first surfboard. Looking forward to getting in the way, fucking up your waves, and generally gaping all over the place

First day down in Newport I went at learning to surf like I do most things, using sheer brute force. Turns out that having your hands over your head and pulling down pushing up while bringing your feet up as hard as you can isn't a good idea. First time I've had a back ache in two years.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using TGR Forums

[PowerWhore7]

First day down in Newport

CA or RI?

If you are in Cali, please shoot me a PM so we can get in the way together.....

[shera]

Just reread this thread...good reminders in there.

If any of you are in San Diego and want to go out in 2-3 foot longboard terrain with a kook, I'm in.

[My Pet Powder Goat]

CA or RI?

If you are in Cali, please shoot me a PM so we can get in the way together.....

And if its on the least coast shoot me a pm if ur ever up in Nh/ME area.

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[neufox47]

Newport RI Powerwhore. Hopefully getting my shit together enough to go to Santa Cruz in Sept with my brother, but we'll see. I definitely want to get up to NH / ME, MPPG. Will hit you up when I do. Although right now my surfing is just embarrassing.

[Ottime]

Moving or visiting SC? Plenty if great beginner waves here. And you be coming during a good time of year. October tends to have the best weather and November the best surf. September can get real good in both fronts.

MPPG, I'm gonna be in Maine soon for a spell. But I hear there will only be waves if you give rog a hug.

[My Pet Powder Goat]

MPPG, I'm gonna be in Maine soon for a spell. But I hear there will only be waves if you give rog a hug.

hahaha. I can do that for some summer waves! Rog has grown on me (like a painful hemroid) over the last couple years.

If the surfs up when you visit give me a shout.

[icelanticskier]

hahaha. I can do that for some summer waves! Rog has grown on me (like a painful hemroid) over the last couple years.

If the surfs up when you visit give me a shout.

I'm here everyday. And I happen to like hugs could be a waist hi wind bump Saturday. Maine mini? In Holliston mass for funeral stuff right now. Hot as fucking balls. 97 degrees in a suit can't wait to get back in the ocean tonight........rog

[My Pet Powder Goat]

Dying to get on the ocean, but I have a bachelor party in jay peak this weekend. Bummed because it Sounds like it will be surfable this weekend for the first time in a while

[icelanticskier]

^^^^^^you won't be missing much, at all. maybe august.............

rog

[CabbieMcJones]

Long time skiing lurker came back because I thought there was a surfing forum here. This thread says pretty much my story. One lesson in Hawaii two years ago and one last week in Redondo and I'm hooked. Just got a used 10' soft top as a starter board and ready to go. Anyone else in similar skill in SoCal hit me up and lets flail together. I'll have the GF in tow as she's as stoked as me.

[Ottime]

Of course we now need pictures of the gf. You know the rules around here.

Not is SoCal, but there are a few folks around here that maybe a few years ahead of you but are still welcome to newbies. PW7 I believe does a Thursday night chill session at San O. An he often has beers. I'd shot him a PM if I were you.