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  1. #1
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    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    Best beginner climbing areas in the Western US?

    5.8-5.9s

    Where do you suggest? Cool scenery and sweet places to camp are a plus. Looking to go the first week of June. Colorado is fine, but definitely open to travelling.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Stuck in perpetual Meh
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    35,247
    Wolcott boulder.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    4,547
    smith rock in central oregon would be a good choice that time of year.
    nice area with a big rock and lots of little ones, fun town in bend and weather is great for this activity.
    done it
    bobby

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
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    9,163
    Trad or sport?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Trad or sport?
    Sorry, sport. I like the Bend area suggestion.. lots of good biking too.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Sandy
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    5,182
    The Uintas are a fun option. With the low snow I imagine the road will be open Labor Day or sooner. Shelf Road is fun and in your neck of the woods. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/N...Medicine_Wall/
    City of Rocks is a blast...
    Last edited by sfotex; 04-01-2012 at 01:44 PM.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    SnoqWA
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    2,625
    I haven't been climbing out of the northwest, but around here I like Vantage (Frenchman Coulee). Nice and warm, a short 2 mile ride/drive to the Columbia river, and perfect secluded basins for camping and general debauchery. It gets too hot in the summer, but should be perfect in June. Big range of climbing from 5.5 to crazy, with the heart being in the 9-10 range.

    Last edited by bfree; 04-01-2012 at 02:18 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Planning an exit
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    5,933
    Shelf Road if you want to stay in CO. Wild Iris or Tensleep in WY. Smith Rocks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
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    3,152
    I'd head to Smith via City of Rocks & Castle Rock SP (next door). Castle Rock offers more easy bolted routes than you'd expect. Camping at either is good and cheap/free.

    Depending on the weather at that exact time, you may be able to get away with Red Rock, which offers loads of easy stuff, but much of it requires some gear. Camping there is shit-tay.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    11,001
    City of Rocks will be pretty then. Sticky rock too.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    22,431
    A tad warm in June, but J tree is one of the best places to climb, at least trad. I don't know if there is much sport their, that was before my time.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    A tad warm in June, but J tree is one of the best places to climb, at least trad. I don't know if there is much sport their, that was before my time.
    The sport at Jtree is spotty and sandbagged... the way it should be.

    City of Rocks is a good choice, Good camping and not too crowded with a bunch of fuckers from LA. Smith is cool too, but blows up on weekends. Cool spot though if you've never been

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    seatown
    Posts
    4,123
    vantage and leavenworth could make a good combo if you make your way up that far.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
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    6,714
    Maple Canyon, UT. For sport at the 5.8-5.10 range in June this would be hands down one of your best options west of the great plains. Perfect distance for a short road trip from AssPan.

    Might also consider Enchanted Tower (Datil), NM. On your way from AssPan to Datil, you'd pass through El Rito outside of SantaFe which is like a mini Maple with cobble climbing.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Sandy
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    5,182
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Maple Canyon, UT. For sport at the 5.8-5.10 range in June this would be hands down one of your best options west of the great plains. Perfect distance for a short road trip from AssPan.
    .
    Maple is marginal for lower grades and there's not a lot of variety at lower grades compared to other places.

    Ten sleep is pretty awesome too, most of the good stuff starts 5.10 though.
    Last edited by sfotex; 04-01-2012 at 12:56 PM.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Corner of Percocet and Depression
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    4,185
    New mexico has a lot of smaller crags with good camping that makes good 2 day stops at a few different campsites, all free and usually not crowded. Staying north near tres piedras, el rito, diablo canyon, white rock would be a fun tour of new Mexico on limestone, conglomerate, granite, and basalt. All quality with a combination of trad an sport in all grades.

    But maple is good too maybe a bit better at harder grades, and city of rocks. I'd stay away from shelf road unless you want to climb with the rest of the boulder spray club.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Corner of Percocet and Depression
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    4,185
    I think datil sucks for moderates, it'll be hot then as well, though it is pretty shady and the camping is great. It's just that the climbing doesn't get good till upper 10's.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Electric Larry Land
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    5,318
    My sister used to live in Littleton, Co and whenever I'd go visit, I used to head to this place:

    Red Rocks Park.

    It's way more than one of the best outdoor music venues in the U.S.....it also has some fantabulistic bouldering.

    Because it is actually a Denver city-owned "mountain park"...no rock climbing is allowed...and they do strictly enforce that rule. But I believe talking more about protection. I've asked about bouldering/scrambling and get different answers there...it all depends upon how strictly they think they can define "climbing and traversing". If you're an ass about it though, they WILL kick you out for violating their "stay on the trails" guidelines. Just be nice and use common-sense. I've never been approached there...and the staff has always been amenable.

    The formations are all sandstone.

    A very small park at 640 acres, but lots of possibilties.

    Worth a day trip even though you can't use rope. Also some great biking.

    The place just has a really cool feel to it....as if all those great concerts are still 'blowing in the wind.'

    http://www.redrocksonline.com/PARKAM...ingBiking.aspx

    --
    Last edited by Alaskan Rover; 04-01-2012 at 05:56 PM.
    "The reason death sticks so closely to life isn't biological necessity - it's envy. Life is so beautiful that death has fallen in love with it; a jealous, possesive love that grabs at what it can." by Yann Martel from Life of Pi



    Posted by DJSapp:
    "Squirrels are rats with good PR."

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Planning an exit
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    5,933
    WTF are you rambling about?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Live Free or Die
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    1,284
    The camping isn't as nice as City of Rocks, but Massacre Rocks in SE Idaho also has some good stuff in that range.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Corner of Percocet and Depression
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    4,185
    God Almighty, AKRover a shithead.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Electric Larry Land
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    5,318
    Quote Originally Posted by brice618 View Post
    God Almighty, AKRover a shithead.
    Upon coming back to that post, I HAD noticed that the edit was indeed resplendant with a level of douchebaggery even eclipsing my own high standards of proper douchebaggery....and so I deleted the edit.

    Please note, though, that your OWN douchery, as exemplified above, had little impact upon my decision.

    Red Rocks remains a damn fine park, though...even if you do have to boulder/scramble in a semi-lawless manner...thanks to the City of Denver.

    --
    "The reason death sticks so closely to life isn't biological necessity - it's envy. Life is so beautiful that death has fallen in love with it; a jealous, possesive love that grabs at what it can." by Yann Martel from Life of Pi



    Posted by DJSapp:
    "Squirrels are rats with good PR."

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    4,547
    i dont consider the rockies to be western

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    G-Spot
    Posts
    1,414
    Hartmans CO has a TON of sport climbing in that range. Plus good Biking.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Fort Front Range
    Posts
    1,618
    Another vote for city of rocks. Tons of routes in that range, and as a plus, the ratings are pretty soft; if you can climb 5.8-9 in eldo, you'll be pulling 10c at the City.
    In with the 9.

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