TR: The Hakuba Crew heads North in Hopes of Extending Winter

[llyon]

Here in Hakuba, the end of February tends to mark the conclusion of powder season and the beginning of spring. With the forecast looking decidedly unwinter-like for a couple of weeks, we rallied a crew to journey north in hopes of just a little bit more Japow.





Pretty light on the Sea of Japan

The trip started with an early wake up and a three hour drive to Niigata, a city in Central Honshu on the Sea of Japan. From there we jumped on an eighteen hour car ferry up to Tomakumai, on Japan's northern island of Hokkaido. After another early wake up on the ferry, we drove onto Hokkaido to find that our hopes to extend winter had been confirmed: it was really damn cold, and kind of snowing.


Being that this was a Japanese ferry, there was (obviously) an onsen on it. Eighteen hours didn't seem so long.


In my experience, the entire Japanese coastline looks like this. This country's appreciation of aesthetic beauty does not extend to its treatment of the ocean, that's for sure.

Our first stop on Hokkaido was the ski resort of Furano. Thanks to Paedde, our fearless leader, Swiss organizer, and PowdermaniaC, we were hooked up with some seriously swanky accommodation at the Prince Hotel. For a dirtbag like me, this was really a treat.


We couldn't figure out what this trail map was trying to tell us, so could only assume that Furano is managed by pirates. We did discover that the best skiing can be found where the pirates are on the map, however.

While in Furano, we were treated to a pretty good storm, leaving us with almost two feet of fresh. It was the real blower too, just like in the movies. At this point we were all pretty sold on Hokkaido.


Patrick Fux, powdermania.


Trees and powder turns.


Mark getting deep.

After a few days of powder skiing at Furano, we did a day trip to Kurodake. On an island covered in flat, boring terrain, Kurodake is the exception. This place has an abundance of big, steep terrain, accessed by a single tram, that is pretty clearly intended for summer use. Unfortunately for us, our timing was off to enjoy what Kurodake has to offer. We had fairly stormy conditions, and the snowpack was absolute crap - a foot of old condensed powder sitting on two feet of facets. I certainly intend on revisiting Kurodake in better conditions some day. If anyone has more experience with this place, I'd love to hear it.


Busy busy. I think we only had one tram ride all day where there were other people on board.


Not a typical Japanese snowpack.


Terrain potential across the valley.

After Kurodake, we went for another day trip to a small resort called Kamui. This place was remarkable for two reasons. First, we received a short tour from the resort manager / badass, Mitsuiko Maeda. Maeda-san is 72 years old. He skis every single day that the resort is open. In the summer, he is on the resort cutting brush and maintaining trails (most of which he designed). We skied one run with him, which he hammered top to bottom, at a pace that had my quads burning. He was riding on a pair of Field Earth skis, which his son designs, that were completely concave in front of the boot (take that, DPS Spoon). The other cool thing about Kamui was the gondola lift line, the first genuinely challenging and easily lap-able inbounds run that I've seen in Japan. This zone is pictured below.


Courtesy of Patrick Fux and Powdermania.com

Our next stop on the trip was Niseko and the Black Diamond Lodge. As residents of the Hakuba Powder Lodge, the Black Diamond was interesting to see, as they are both the hub for backcountry skiers in their respective ski towns. We found Black Diamond to be fully deserving of its reputation as a backcountry mecca.


The Black Diamond Lodge at night.


Niseko. I heard they have night skiing here.


Miles has a different perspective on skiing in Niseko. Courtesy of Patrick Fux and Powdermania.com

One of the most enjoyable aspects of skiing around Niseko were the avalanche barriers. We have them in Hakuba, but they aren't built up into full on pillow lines the way they are on Hokkaido. These things really are just as much fun as they look.





Mark airing it out amongst avy barriers.


Every line in avalanche barriers feels different. Some are mellow and fun for throwing tricks, others are steep and have serious consequence.


One thing that makes these lines scary is that they are totally blind. Even a few feet from your next air, this is pretty much the view of what lies below.


But when it all works out, they really are that fun.


This one will have to wait till next year. Unfortunately, we found it too late in the day and the snow had gotten a little too crusty.

After a week and a half in the north country, it was time to return to the rain. We drove back to Tomakumai, boarded the ferry, drove from Niigata, and finally arrived back home in Hakuba 30 hours later.


A parting shot from the ferry ride home.



Unless otherwise noted, all photos are courtesy of Pales. For more pictures, and for his take on the trip, visit his blog.

For even more photos and stories from Paedde, visit Powdermania.com, as well as Powdermania's Facebook page.

And, lastly, my writeup on Unofficial Japan.

[neck beard]

"Flat boring terrain"

Can I have your autograph?

[Hicks]

Very nice, thx for sharing.

[_Aaron_]

Nice work guys. When are you due back stateside?

[GoEhuge]

Dammit Lee... you continually make me question what I have done with my life.

Solid work buddy.

[Goniff]

Great videos and pics. I skied Kurodake in early February with Black Diamond Tours. We skinned to the top for one run and them spent the rest of the day lapping the rope way. Up top, the snowpack consisted of about 5 inches of silky pow on a solid base. There was heavy knee deep pow below the rope way in the trees. Some pics and vid from my day:

The avi barriers are lots of fun and a little scary when all you can see below you is the hard road.

[Mike Pow]

Great to see Hokkaido delivered for you.

It's still winter up here and there's plenty of powder to be skied but only on the green runs.

[MrPow]

what a cool TR? Love those avalanche barriers.

[llyon]

Nice one, Goniff. I think I watched your video a while back, but didnt put two and two together. It certainly helps to confirm my suspicions about that place.

Great videos and pics. I skied Kurodake in early February with Black Diamond Tours. We skinned to the top for one run and them spent the rest of the day lapping the rope way. Up top, the snowpack consisted of about 5 inches of silky pow on a solid base. There was heavy knee deep pow below the rope way in the trees. Some pics and vid from my day:

The avi barriers are lots of fun and a little scary when all you can see below you is the hard road.

[noparking]

looks like so much fun

[splat]

A great adventure. YES!

[llyon]

Headed to AK March 27. Whats your spring looking like?

Nice work guys. When are you due back stateside?

[llyon]

Come visit next winter!

Dammit Lee... you continually make me question what I have done with my life.

Solid work buddy.

[SchralphMacchio]

That looked really boring and totally not worth it. Especially not after the 8th time I watched the avy barrier segment.

[FreakofSnow]

Damn !!!



Thanks for sharing

[adimmen]

The Japan TRs have been stellar this year.

[llyon]

Damn !!!



Thanks for sharing

That is the photo that will motivate me to get back up to Hokkaido next year. Wishing I hadnt pussed out on trying it.

[rideit]

Damn !!!



Thanks for sharing

Travis Rice inspiration?

[_Aaron_]

Headed to AK March 27. Whats your spring looking like?

Its either going to be a trip to the eastside Serria or working on my Teton tick list. AK is a little bit out of the budget for me this spring. Lets start planning a trip for next spring soon. I really want to do something out of the way with a group of 3-6.

[llyon]

Lets start planning a trip for next spring soon.

Definitely. Ive got a couple trips in mind, and Im sure you do too.

[satori]

This TR is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Was hoping to get up to the lodge in Feb but it didnt work out Thanks for sharing this!!

[BFD]

Pretty cool an onsen on the ferry. The Alaska Marine Highway needs to pick up on that! We finished our trip at Kurodake last year. Skinned it from the base. Three laps off the top in over the head blower. Literally the first time I had ever choked on powder while skiing. ironically the only avie we triggered in Japan looked allot like yours. Slid on some slick bamboo leaves on the last steeper pitch before you hit the flats by the creek. Isn't the tram by the run? I am in AK. now and I can say our snowpack is deeper than Japan and there is no metal in our pillows.