Car/Mechanical Question

[shroom]

so i've been in contact with a guy selling an 05 legacy wagon. when it comes down to sale time, i get this email

"the car is not perfect. There are two primary flaws. #1, I had both front struts replaced about 15k miles ago. The only reason why is one was blown from hitting a pothole. Anyhow, ever since they were replaced they have made a popping noise when turning slow and sharp (think parking lot). Anyhow, the mechanic told me it was just settling and would go away, but still it's kind of annoying in parking lots. At that time I also did all four corners brakes including pads and rotors.

#2, the airbag light is on. Don't know why, likely a sensor, and I've had them done for $50 before. I just pulled the carfax and it's clean as can be... No wrecks or anything.

Anyhow, with those things in mind I can do $11k out the door. I'm getting frustrated with the other two buyers, so I'd like to get this done ASAP.... Gotta pay my taxes! Let me know as soon as you can."

should i run away? any similar experiences? some research is leading me to think it may be the fromt axel?

thanks-

[Chugachjed]

Sounds like a cv joint problem. Don't know anything about airbag systems.

[jfost]

1994 legacy wagon - my popping noise when hard over is from the CV joint, not the front strut(s). YMMV?

[shroom]

Sounds like a cv joint problem. Don't know anything about airbag systems.

thanks, i've seen this as the culprit in a few places. not overly worried about the airbag light

[jfost]

... not overly worried about the airbag light

yeah, you barely ever even need those anyway!

[uglymoney]

He probably didn't change the strut mounts when he had the new struts put on so it is possible that that is where the noise is coming from. New strut mounts aren't that expensive and it is a diy garage job. It could be the cv joints as well but if the boots look good I'd kind of doubt it, bad boots would nail it down and axles aren't that expensive. If it is a stick it could be the center differential ($600 + probably 4 hours of labor). When it goes bad it pops and jerks the car during tight turns. When my wheel bearings went up front at 100k they groaned and growled during tight slow turns.

[MontuckyFried]

Be prepared to replace the axle/cv joints. Really not a big deal, as said above. The airbag issue will likely be very pricey to repair. If you don't care about working airbags, then go for it...but offer something more like 8k. 11k is actually a good price for a '05 Subaru, but keep in mind that it's still a 7+ year old car. It's going to have issues, and it'd be nice to have money left over to fix whatever may happen (like the axles, airbag, impending head gasket?).

[OSECS]

so i've been in contact with a guy selling an 05 legacy wagon. when it comes down to sale time, i get this email

"the car is not perfect. There are two primary flaws. #1, I had both front struts replaced about 15k miles ago. The only reason why is one was blown from hitting a pothole. Anyhow, ever since they were replaced they have made a popping noise when turning slow and sharp (think parking lot). Anyhow, the mechanic told me it was just settling and would go away, but still it's kind of annoying in parking lots. At that time I also did all four corners brakes including pads and rotors.

#2, the airbag light is on. Don't know why, likely a sensor, and I've had them done for $50 before. I just pulled the carfax and it's clean as can be... No wrecks or anything.

Anyhow, with those things in mind I can do $11k out the door. I'm getting frustrated with the other two buyers, so I'd like to get this done ASAP.... Gotta pay my taxes! Let me know as soon as you can."

should i run away? any similar experiences? some research is leading me to think it may be the fromt axel?

thanks-

Air bag issue can be cheap or damn expensive, verify the cost of the issue very closely. In Va. if you have an airbag equipped car then it must be operable to pass inspection. You can't disable them to pass inspection I believe.

[BraddA]

While there are some solid recs here you should be taking it to a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection anyway. When you get it looked at, just tell them what you know about its "two primary flaws."
Hope it works out, I drive an '05 LGT and I love it.

[4matic]

$11k for an 05 Legacy? Subaru CV joints are always junk and so are the airbag sensors. For just a few dollars more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...item19cdbaa67b

[BraddA]

Yeah, can't go wrong with an '06 Bimmer xi for 13k.

[jfost]

162,000 mi

[uglymoney]

$11k for an 05 Legacy? Subaru CV joints are always junk and so are the airbag sensors. For just a few dollars more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...item19cdbaa67b

Bimmer wagons are sweet but I will point out that all four of my axles and boots are original on my ten year old Outback with 145k. Only sensors I've replaced were the two O2 sensors. Took a buck twenty and an hour of my time.

[Tippster]

162,000 mi

30k miles a year in LA is easy, betcha they're mainly Hwy miles to Mammoth...

[jfost]

30k miles a year in LA is easy, betcha they're mainly Hwy miles to Mammoth...

maybe they leave it running in the garage a'la Ferris Bueller?

[Chainsaw_Willie]

Either the guy's mechanic is an idiot who doesn't fix things right (or lies), the guy is trying to hide something, or the guy is an idiot, or quite possibly all of the above.

Struts don't "pop" or "settle." They're bolted in solidly, though as uglymoney says, it could be the strut mounts. More likely it's the CVs.

Get a mechanic to have a look at it.

Only thing is, I've never been able to figure out how to arrange this in a private-party sale. Usually people aren't too interested in you taking their vehicle for the day without paying them for it.

[Sublime]

My guess would either be the CV joint or the wheel bearing is going

Another car question I have a 01 Mercury Sable with 130k on the DOHC Duratec engine. She has been bomber the 6 years I've had her now. However is she getting a little grumpy. She started running a little rough so I replaced both o2 sensors new plugs and flushed the engine. Basically quart of tranny fluid in with an pil change drive it like hell then drain and fill new. Helped a little but she still surges and stalls out at idle. Just tool her 80 miles highway and she ran great the whole way so the problem is just at idle.

I think I have it narrowed down to the mass airflow sensor or the idle control valve. Anything else I should look at ? I peeped at the mass airflow and everything looked okay but that's such a sensitive part it still could shit the bed.

[jgb@etree]

Only thing is, I've never been able to figure out how to arrange this in a private-party sale. Usually people aren't too interested in you taking their vehicle for the day without paying them for it.

Really? I've never had a problem with it. One time a guy was kinda sketched out about someone driving his car around, so he drove it almost an hour to my mechanic and waited for 2 hrs while it was gone over with a fine toothed comb.

Honestly, it's probably the best $100-200 you'll ever spend on a used car and if your mechanic is good, they can always find a couple of things for you to use to haggle the price down a little more. Hell, if someone won't let me get a car inspected by my mechanic before buying I'd just walk away from it. I've happily passed a few cars after having a pre-purchase inspection done and was happy to have spent the money (my guy charges $150 for a PPI) to avoid a potential disaster. I'd also be cautious when buying a car without relatively complete service records.

Not going to start the debate over what kind of car you should get, but you can get a hell of a lot more car for 11k than what you're currently looking at.

[jfost]

...Not going to start the debate over what kind of car you should get, but you can get a hell of a lot more car for 11k than what you're currently looking at.

please say Audi, please say Audi...

popcorn eagerly awaits.

[wooley12]

After having my car towed to a shop while 300 miles from home and not being able to pick it up for a month ($600 storage fee), my airbag light was on. The fucker sold the air bag.

[shroom]

the collective comes at full force, we dont need another subie/audi thread. though if you've shopped subaru's in washington (eastern in particular) you'd know its not quite like purchasing one elsewhere in the US.

thanks all, im out of this one.

[jfost]

the collective comes at full force, we dont need another subie/audi thread. though if you've shopped subaru's in washington (eastern in particular) you'd know its not quite like purchasing one elsewhere in the US.

thanks all, im out of this one.

noooooooo! don't think you can just drop it whilst(like) it's hot - this thread is one post away from legendary status, just say the word...

[shroom]

$11k for an 05 Legacy? Subaru CV joints are always junk and so are the airbag sensors. For just a few dollars more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...item19cdbaa67b

11k included tax/title. that's as far as my rebuttal goes

[Alaskan Rover]

$11k for an 05 Legacy? Subaru CV joints are always junk and so are the airbag sensors. For just a few dollars more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...item19cdbaa67b

I like Suburus...I think they're a great vehicle and fulfill a good niche for people who don't require offroad capability. Plus I think the old Brats were THE SHIT (in a good way)...but I've never owned one. But 11,000 for a 7 year car that WILL turn into a rusted shitbox, seems a little high to me....but maybe that's indeed market price. For that high $11,000 shouldn't the damn thing be bristol???

--

[Touring_Sedan]

The popping sound could also be a ball joint. As for the airbag light, have it scanned, as another poster said, could be cheap, could be mucho bucks. I spent some time chasing a SRS light on my Disco, after a $300 clockspring, it turned out to be just a loose connection.