Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 43
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Quebec -> Tahoe
    Posts
    267

    Is white glue for "woodworking crafts" good enough for a binding mount?

    Mounting up a pair of super S7s, already have holes in the right place, just want to make sure I use the right glue.

    Is this stuff good enough, or should I go out and get some carpenter's glue?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    The "right glue" and "good enough" are not necessarily the same. If it says "waterproof" on the package it is probably "good enough."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Base of LCC
    Posts
    1,623
    Search Jong

    1. Marine Epoxy
    2. Nothing
    3. See number 1


    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...mounting-myths


    last wood glue. why would you purpousely insert water into a New Ski?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beautiful BC
    Posts
    2,971
    Typical white wood glue isn't waterproof so it's not good enough. The purpose of the glue is to seal the hole and keep moisture out. Unless you strip the hole. Then use marine epoxy to glue the screw in place.
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    S. Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    442
    Shops routinely use white wood glue. Its good enough.
    LET IT SNOW

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    11,764
    Rontele uses santorum

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,949
    It will make the mount stronger. Of course, that's only until you ski it, the glue gets cold and brittle, cracks, and lets moisture into your core, at which point you'll wish you used slow set epoxy or some other such adhesive that stays flexible while cold. On the upside, carpenters glue won't be any different, so of the options you listed, either one is fine.

    [/world will end]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    1,251
    marine epoxy is what you should use
    stay outta my line

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Calgary/Fernie
    Posts
    1,417
    The DPS mounting instructions suggest using Gorilla Glue. I used that on my last mount and it seems pretty bomber. You just need to ensure that you do not use too much because it does expand as it dries.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Back in SEA
    Posts
    9,657
    commonlaw FTW

    potd.
    ... jfost is really ignorant, he often just needs simple facts laid out for him...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,174
    Quote Originally Posted by el penoso View Post
    Shops routinely use white wood glue. Its good enough.
    Another good reason to DIY
    picador

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    No. White glue is no good.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,664
    Recently used Marine Goop this per some recommendations on this board. Too early to tell long-term, but was as easy to apply as wood glue, but is built for keeping water out.

    Marine Goop
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=SPM6541718002

    Not quite epoxy strength from what I understand but still a good adhesive too.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Live Free or Die
    Posts
    2,093
    Roo Glue
    Dollar sign that bitch.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,082
    "Devcon, 3M, Hardman, Gorilla Glue, and Hysol make excellent two-part epoxies for the task. Gorilla Glue, Titebond Polyurethane, and Elmer’s Polyurethane are excellent one component adhesives. DO NOT USE CONVENTIONAL WOOD GLUE. Using conventional wood glue may void the warranty."

    DPS is mainly saying don't use wood glue

    PU glue is water seeking so if there is any moisture the glue seeks it out and thats where the bubbling happens, they even suggest wetting solid surfaces before gluing.

    If you use too much PU glue it just spews out the threads onto your ski top ... they do not explode

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by ACHTUNG View Post
    Roo Glue
    ^^^^ Yes! ^^^^ Better than wood glue and epoxy. Just right!
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    People's Republic of MN
    Posts
    5,761
    I've used "Carpenter Glue" with no issues. I prefer Titebond 3 these days for the waterproof applications. I also have been trying Marine Goop for Tele boards, as I have had issues with screws getting loose, and the Goop is more flexible, so unlike wood glue, it shouldnt "break". Time will tell.

    I have yet to ever use epoxy on a ski mount.
    Gravity. It's the law.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by el penoso View Post
    Shops routinely use white wood glue. Its good enough.
    Shop customers often ski only 6-10 days a year (or less) and not in the rain or late spring. They typically won't notice the difference over the life of the skis. Personally I go the epoxy route, something that cures in more than 5 minutes helps you get it all in the holes before it starts setting up.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by axebiker View Post
    I've used "Carpenter Glue" with no issues. I prefer Titebond 3 these days for the waterproof applications.
    Titebond3 has failed eventually for me every time I've used it. Takes a couple seasons of wet Sierra snow, but it's not worked well for me. It may be because I'm a hack and don't get the holes/screws just right and leave a gap that titebond can't cover, but it's off my list...

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,082
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    Personally I go the epoxy route, something that cures in more than 5 minutes helps you get it all in the holes before it starts setting up.
    IME slow set epoxy is WAY better/stronger than 5 min epoxy, I put some extra 5 min on the blade of a ww paddle just for kicks and it got soft/fell off pretty quick, I don't think 5min is water proof and usually if you got time to apply glue you got time to wait 24hrs

    I do have some 5min but its in a emergency repair kit ... I wouldn't use it for normal repair work

    hit the head of an epoxied screw with a hot soldering iron for 15 sec and the bond is broken

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,243
    IME, screws with Titebond III get rusty, evidence that it does not create a waterproof bond and seal.

    In the shop, I use slow set epoxy.

    In my field repair kit I carry fast set epoxy (Hardman Double Bubble Red).

    IME, polyurethane (PU) glues like Gorilla seem to create a waterproof seal. But I don't like the idea of bubbles (voids) so I don't use PU glue for ski mounts.
    Last edited by DIYSteve; 02-23-2017 at 04:13 PM.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    People's Republic of MN
    Posts
    5,761
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    IME, screws with Titebond III get rusty, evidence that it does not create a waterproof bond and seal.
    Good to know! I'll keep an eye open for that.
    Gravity. It's the law.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    monument
    Posts
    6,929
    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Recently used Marine Goop this per some recommendations on this board. Too early to tell long-term, but was as easy to apply as wood glue, but is built for keeping water out.

    Marine Goop
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=SPM6541718002

    Not quite epoxy strength from what I understand but still a good adhesive too.
    i too started using the goop after reading marshalolsen's glowing recommendation.
    i'm going to be removing the bindings that were gooped soon, hopefully w/o incident.
    anyone find it necessary to use a soldering iron when removing screws held in by Marine Goop?
    In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Amherst, Mass.
    Posts
    4,686
    What do we think about GE Silicone II Glue?

    The official description reads:
    *****
    This is a premium glue for project repairs around the house.

    ADDITIONAL FEATURES
    Waterproof and airtight adhesion
    Sun-/freeze-proof; won't crack or crumble
    TYPICAL USES: General household repairs

    ADHERES TO: tile, porcelain, glass, fiberglass, marble, wood, steel, aluminum, brick, mortar, concrete, and most plastics
    *****
    I saw it recommended in an old archived tech manual from Goode. (Given how notorious their skis are for binding pullouts, I'm not sure if that's a good sign or bad sign!)
    Compared to Goop, the fumes are nowhere near as bad.
    Compared to 3M Marine Epoxy, the tube can be used again (and without having to store it in the freezer).
    Compared to various epoxies, don't need to heat up the screw to remove.
    Compared to wood glue, not injecting water in the hole.
    I used it in a test mount overnight, and then in couple mounts for real, and so far so good.
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    this is a fun thread. I personally like to use a 24hr two-part epoxy. Lots of other things work great too. I feel the main function of any glue in a traditional ski mount is to seal the hole and keep melted snow (water) out. This is why lots of different glues work great.

    Two types of glue DON'T work:
    -non-waterproof glue (white elmers and some woodworking glue)
    -brittle glue (superglue, 5-minute epoxy, ect)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •