Snowboard for Boarder X: Quiver Optimization

[mangle]

I have a dilemma.

I have a basically new 2007/2008 Burton T6 162, a former demo 2010/2011 T7 162 with amazingly pristine edges and base, and a daily driver 2008/2009 T6 162 that's torn to shit (probably 120-140 days on it). I have Ride CADs on all of them. I have other stuff for low-key/park and powder days.

I want to set aside one of the first two for trying out boardercross stuff here in the Northeast. The 07/08 T6 has been ridden maybe 5 days now, and the edges have a few small nicks that I should be able to take out with a fine diamond stone pretty easily. It's been absolutely glorious on the ice I've seen at Killington the past few days... Leaving pencil lines through yellow ice is quite satisfying when I do it right, though I still can't make SL-sized turns on anything that hard.

I haven't ridden the T7 yet, as I just got the slot compatible disks this weekend. I'm leaning toward setting aside the 07/08 T6 for racing, using the T7 as a daily driver, and demoting the 08/09 T6 to a rock board or tuning it up and selling it.

Is there any reason I should do something different? Will I notice much of a difference between the old T6 and the T7? If I decide boardercross is something I'll stick with, I'll pony up for a real boardercross board.

I guess also relevant is the fact that I'm about 6'2", 175 lbs, size 10.5 Malamute, binding angles +30/-15 (knees are a little weird and really like these angles). Are these boards even remotely good for this task?

[mangle]

And I forgot to include the other part of my question... Factory tune seems to be 1deg base bevel, 1deg side for a 90deg edge. I would think that there's a lot more turning performance to be gained by a more aggressive side angle. I have good 1deg base and side edge guides and could get shims for something more aggressive. Is this a good idea?

Thoughts?

[Sinecure]

Try posting these questions on a forum that cares more about snowboarding and you'll get better response. Bomberonline might even be a good spot - more hard boot content than softboot, but those there that ride soft (like me) ride in Malamutes or other stiff bindings. And lots of BX folks there. Also, while you're there, check out Bomber's new Power Plate System. It strikes me as a great addition to any BX arsenal.

Oh, and I'd go 1/2 on base/edge bevel.

[mangle]

Sweet. Thanks.

I'll post over there and see what they say.

[jetski]

Plus 30 in the front? Mis type? Crazy angles for sure. Never seen any one ride so wide up front. Whatever works for your knees and gets you riding...

[mangle]

No, 30 is right for the front. It keeps my knees happy. I don't think I'm giving up too much by doing that, but it is enough that I can feel a difference in board flex on a heel vs toe edge. I may try gradually reigning that in a bit.

[boltonoutlaw]

Sell them all and get a Prior if you are serious about SBX. Those T6 are prone to stress fracture.

[spaztwelve]

Plus 30 in the front? Mis type? Crazy angles for sure. Never seen any one ride so wide up front. Whatever works for your knees and gets you riding...

Nothing wrong with 30. Terje rides a 22" 21/6 stance.

[boltonoutlaw]

And I forgot to include the other part of my question... Factory tune seems to be 1deg base bevel, 1deg side for a 90deg edge. I would think that there's a lot more turning performance to be gained by a more aggressive side angle. I have good 1deg base and side edge guides and could get shims for something more aggressive. Is this a good idea?

Thoughts?

You want 0 degree base bevel and 1-2 degree edge bevel for something less than 90 degree to get edge bite. All this base edge bevel is for "comfort" not performance.

FWIW, stance angles in the 70-60 range are common for GS and SL. And like the guy said above, Terje rides a 21 degree stance, something that was common before all this saggy pants jibbing nonsense. I used to run 36/24 for SBX.