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  1. #2901
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    fill holes with a quality epoxy (not 5 minute) and you're much better off than those plastic plugs that don't do shit.

  2. #2902
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,549
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    fill holes with a quality epoxy (not 5 minute) and you're much better off than those plastic plugs that don't do shit.
    Ok next time... Plastic plugs came with the wintersteiger drill bits

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  3. #2903
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,694
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    fill holes with a quality epoxy (not 5 minute) and you're much better off than those plastic plugs that don't do shit.
    I find it tough to get epoxy in the holes to completely fill them... it's tough to know whether you have an air bubble in there or not.

    The plastic plugs (installed with epoxy) at least keep water out. I use them as long as the holes are sufficiently far from the new holes I want to drill I count on the ski being strong enough.

    For closer hole spacing hardwood dowels.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  4. #2904
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,254
    What’s the problem w/ plastic plugs? Lack of structural resistance?

    I’ve always put in plastic plugs w/ titebond III

  5. #2905
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,219

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    I find it tough to get epoxy in the holes to completely fill them... it's tough to know whether you have an air bubble in there or not.
    1ml Plastic Disposable Graduated Transfer Pipettes Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHK1PLX..._DRA0Db1TM4ZD8

  6. #2906
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,714
    I mix a little sawdust in with the epoxy. Having some solid chucks in there makes it a lot easier to poke it down in the holes, and I think that in theory it might be a little stronger if I have to drill overlapping holes with some fibrous stuff in there too. No real data on that second point though.

  7. #2907
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,577
    What’s a proper epoxy? Maybe two suggestions: short and long cure? Unless no real benefit to long..

  8. #2908
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    What’s a proper epoxy? Maybe two suggestions: short and long cure? Unless no real benefit to long..
    In my experience quick set epoxy tends to be more brittle. Long set tends to have better elasticity.

  9. #2909
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,577
    Quote Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129 View Post
    In my experience quick set epoxy tends to be more brittle. Long set tends to have better elasticity.
    K thx. Most all brands equal? Anybody have a strong feeling for a certain one?

  10. #2910
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    K thx. Most all brands equal? Anybody have a strong feeling for a certain one?
    West System G-Flex

  11. #2911
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    1ml Plastic Disposable Graduated Transfer Pipettes Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHK1PLX..._DRA0Db1TM4ZD8
    Yup, though I get a box of 100 10cc syringes and plastic luer-lock tips. [I actually also have 3cc ones too - which I use depends on what I'm trying to do. But the 10cc ones get a lot more use.]

    I would have a hard time pulling epoxy into the pipette. Especially when I use wood flour if I want to increase viscosity/fill.

    https://www.amazon.com/a13042200ux03...s%2C191&sr=8-4

    I use syringes for quite a few other things too, so while a box of 100 will last me decades, they're always super handy to have around.

    I've used West System slow cure or T-88 from System 3. [I mostly use T-88, since it's what I'm most familiar with, and what's handy and open in the garage.] I don't recall what sizes mine were to start, though I'd guess 16oz of each hardener/resin. 4oz will last you forever, unless you do a lot of big glue-ups. For ski work, I usually mix 1-2 grams each of hardener/resin.

  12. #2912
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,577
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    West System G-Flex
    Copy that. 2nd to suggest this one. Thanks!Ordering with ^ above transfers.
    gregL- how would you most confidently fill a close hole?

  13. #2913
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    gregL- how would you most confidently fill a close hole?
    I would ram some fine steel wool in the hole and use a syringe to fill with epoxy.

  14. #2914
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,219
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    Yup, though I get a box of 100 10cc syringes and plastic luer-lock tips. [I actually also have 3cc ones too - which I use depends on what I'm trying to do. But the 10cc ones get a lot more use.]

    I would have a hard time pulling epoxy into the pipette. Especially when I use wood flour if I want to increase viscosity/fill.

    https://www.amazon.com/a13042200ux03...s%2C191&sr=8-4

    I use syringes for quite a few other things too, so while a box of 100 will last me decades, they're always super handy to have around.

    I've used West System slow cure or T-88 from System 3. [I mostly use T-88, since it's what I'm most familiar with, and what's handy and open in the garage.] I don't recall what sizes mine were to start, though I'd guess 16oz of each hardener/resin. 4oz will last you forever, unless you do a lot of big glue-ups. For ski work, I usually mix 1-2 grams each of hardener/resin.
    Oh, actually I use 3cc pipettes, not 1cc. Was too lazy to go look.

    I use syringes with metal pinhead dispensers for delams, just because they’re skinnier. Maybe a little stronger, but they pull out if they get pinched.

    Same here. I have practically a lifetime supply from some previous hobbies.

  15. #2915
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,694
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    1ml Plastic Disposable Graduated Transfer Pipettes Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHK1PLX..._DRA0Db1TM4ZD8
    I bought syringes years ago (and never used them) with exactly that I mind but I found the g-flex too thick to flow through it.

    Maybe I just need to warm it up first?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  16. #2916
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,219
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    I bought syringes years ago (and never used them) with exactly that I mind but I found the g-flex too thick to flow through it.

    Maybe I just need to warm it up first?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    I work at room temperature. It takes a minute or so to draw the G-Flex into the pipette, but I’ve never had it be too thick. I guess some pipettes could be flimsier than others?

  17. #2917
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    The plastic tips make all the difference. Small gauge needles won't cut it with epoxy. [I've tried! ]
    The plastic tips can be trimmed too, to have a larger opening.

    Oh, and even then, I don't *pull* the epoxy into the syringe - it's possible that would work if it were warm, but mine never is. I mix on a small piece of paper or cardboard, then use the mixing toothpick to swirl a bunch onto the toothpick. I then roll off in the open end/barrel of the 10cc syringe - repeat until all the material is transferred. Even if I do 3-4cc of material, I can still load the syringe this way. Then slide the plunger in and purge the air.

  18. #2918
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,577
    How are people extracting plastic plugs? Mine set by melamine base glue. Have tried a screw with mixed results.. maybe I’m doing it wrong

  19. #2919
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,068
    drywall screw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #2920
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,610
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    How are people extracting plastic plugs? Mine set by melamine base glue. Have tried a screw with mixed results.. maybe I’m doing it wrong
    Drill it out with your stepped ski mounting bit. Most of them will just spin out.

  21. #2921
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,577

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Thanks gents
    ETA: tried screw again first. I just wasn’t penetrating enough prior. Had good luck with 7-8 driver twists and some screw manipulation in each direction while at depth.
    Last edited by CascadeLuke; 11-17-2019 at 09:07 PM.

  22. #2922
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,219
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    The plastic tips make all the difference. Small gauge needles won't cut it with epoxy. [I've tried! ]
    The plastic tips can be trimmed too, to have a larger opening.

    Oh, and even then, I don't *pull* the epoxy into the syringe - it's possible that would work if it were warm, but mine never is. I mix on a small piece of paper or cardboard, then use the mixing toothpick to swirl a bunch onto the toothpick. I then roll off in the open end/barrel of the 10cc syringe - repeat until all the material is transferred. Even if I do 3-4cc of material, I can still load the syringe this way. Then slide the plunger in and purge the air.
    I use these 14 gauge steel needles.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N562BFP..._vvF0DbHV8T8PG

  23. #2923
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,820
    jesus christ put your tiny dicks in there
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  24. #2924
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,820
    and if it really matters use Hardman machinable epoxy and buy it from SlideWrite
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  25. #2925
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    9,987
    For binding mounts, it doesn’t. Unless a ski has carbon i use waterproof wood glue. If carbon, 5 minute work time epoxy.
    If on a delam, locktite marine epoxy since it remains pliable as to flex with the ski. G flex is good if you have it around, if not then the marine works fine.
    I also fill the old holes with epoxy and golf tees if having to mount close to existing, if not then the plastic pound ins with some epoxy works just fine. I use a tooth pick to burp the holes if need be. Never had an issue in all my mounts over what, 20 plus years if mounting my own shit.

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