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  1. #3851
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by caulfield View Post
    Apparently you tee'd up all the comedians. Tapping helps feel you feel the bottom better but either way you'll figure it out after like the third one of your first pair so it'll have 13 good ones. And most (all?) screws and bindings have those little ridges on the parts where they contact. When you're tightening, they feel like zipper at first, then start individual index clicks. I do maybe 3-5 of the clicks, but it's another feel thing that you'll figure out. Whatever those ridges are called, I like them.

    The tutorial I read when I started said to make sure downward pressure on your driver is greater than rotational pressure and I thought that was good advice.
    ribbed screw head is what I've always called it

  2. #3852
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    62
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?

  3. #3853
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    270

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    ^^

    As long as they hold tight and there arenít any spinners I donít worry about it. There isnt a magic number and it depends on a lot of factors like how well the old holes were sealed to keep moisture out.

    Youíll have a pretty good sense when youíre screwing the binding in whether its solid or not


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #3854
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,201
    yeah it's not that hard - you'll know
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  5. #3855
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    62
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

  6. #3856
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,201
    I do not like GG (except GG Alin). I do like a two part epoxy. Other people like a good wood glue and that's probably ok too. I know people that use urethane stuff like Seam Grip or Aqua Seal. Hell, you can even buy binding glue.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  7. #3857
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,201
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?
    that many
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  8. #3858
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    715
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?
    As many times as you can reinstall the screws cleanly without stripping them. Kind of a pat answer but it depends a lot on how careful you are, and a bit how the ski is constructed.

    If you're planning on doing it a lot, do inserts.

  9. #3859
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say donít use ...
    Whenever I reuse holes I use slow set 24 hour marine epoxy. I used Titebond III glue for several years but had instances of rusty screws, I've since switched to Gorilla Glue construction adhesive for newly drilled holes. Stays flexible and the screws are easily removed. I haven't used it long enough to know how it will do long term, but it's very easy to deal with compared to epoxy.

    One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than wood glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.

  10. #3860
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    197
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say donít use ...
    Iíd do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.

  11. #3861
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by YaBoyBlue View Post
    I’d do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.
    Once GG is cured, it's waterproof. Water aids in the activation and curing process, it has nothing to do with somehow reactivating the glue once cured. I definitely would not use wood glue on reused holes if it were me. "Binding glue" is a special kind of wood glue that tends to stay more flexible (even though ski bindings wasn't the original intent I don't think, at least for Roo glue). Much less brittle than Titebond III. In other words "wood glue" is a very generic term.

  12. #3862
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    62
    Don’t know how I reposted.

    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

  13. #3863
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    197
    Even if it was inadvertent that was amazing comedic timing.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #3864
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    55
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #3865
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    950
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    If you're worried they won't ski ok, I won't might giving them a test run for ya.

  16. #3866
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    292
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  17. #3867
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by scmartin69 View Post
    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I wish I could tell you. Taking a leap of faith coming from an ill fitting panterra 120. I've never skied a crossover boot before.

  18. #3868
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,661
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?

  19. #3869
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?
    Yes. A fig newton weights about 15.5 grams. I figured 70 of those is about a kilogram/m^2. But that wasn't enough. I may have used 500 fig newtons now that I think of it.

  20. #3870
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    3,162
    I'm just here for the fig newton stoke

  21. #3871
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,652
    Just ski really really slow for the first season. After that you can open it up. It's all about safety, man.

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