PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[rfconroy]

Hole at ski center could be a duke mount

Based on the vintage of the ski - and the fact the center hole to too far away from the rear 4 holes, I think you're correct: duke/Baron

[gregorys]

What about a mount that would effectively be right on top (less than a few mm) of an existing hole set? Is using slow set epoxy and fiberglass strong enough to drill into an old mount hole?
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I'm pretty sure I've posted about this upthread, but I'm too lazy to find it.

The TLDR; version is - on burly skis (Cochise, Volkl One/Two Bodacious etc) - I've never had an issue. I've done it quite a few times - like perhaps half a dozen with really close holes.)

I use epoxy and bamboo skewers.
Use a syringe and insert epoxy into the hole. I nearly fill the hole and then stir with the plastic tip, in the hole - this gets the epoxy coating the interior, IMO.
Jam in a skewer and pound it down lightly.
I have a flush-cut handsaw and I cut them flush with the top-sheet.
Lastly, I either dab epoxy on the tops immediately after (or the next day, depending on how much time I have) to seal the bamboo. It's end-grain, so it will wick moisture easily without some kind of seal.

I let that cure for at least 12H, usually more. Then drill and mount normally. (I always use epoxy for my mounts - which might contribute some additional strength, I dunno.)

As noted, these are not light-touring sticks - many have two sheets of metal - so YMMV if your core is lighter. But numerous of these have had the new hole actually touch the previous holes, or be within a mm or three. (And these are normal mounts, not inserts.)

[Edited to add: Rereading the OP, this isn't an exact duplicate of the previous hole set. IIRC, only pairs of holes are super close in the mounts I've done - so say the front toe holes are touching, or nearly so. Not the entire toe. I'd probably feel safe enough for the whole toe/heel to do so - but that would definitely add some spice to the mix.]

[HAB]

Based on the vintage of the ski - and the fact the center hole to too far away from the rear 4 holes, I think you're correct: duke/Baron

I also assumed that, but like I noted in my first post, it's not a Duke either. The toe seems almost close but the heel isn't at all.

[gregorys]

I also assumed that, but like I noted in my first post, it's not a Duke either. The toe seems almost close but the heel isn't at all.

Something tele? (I can't think of what, but it seems like something's like that.)

[rfconroy]

I also assumed that, but like I noted in my first post, it's not a Duke either. The toe seems almost close but the heel isn't at all.

Yep apparently I cant read...

Looking at some templates I have saved - it may be a kingpin demo.

If it were tele for a heel riser, typically those have two screws in-line to prevent rotation.

[HAB]

Yep apparently I cant read...

Looking at some templates I have saved - it may be a kingpin demo.

If it were tele for a heel riser, typically those have two screws in-line to prevent rotation.

You got that Kingpin demo template anywhere I can see it?

This is getting pretty academic at this point because I can just put Pivots on here for my BSL on the line, but I've spent long enough trying to figure this out that I want answers.

[gregorys]

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-measurement

[rfconroy]

You got that Kingpin demo template anywhere I can see it?

This is getting pretty academic at this point because I can just put Pivots on here for my BSL on the line, but I've spent long enough trying to figure this out that I want answers.

Coming in hot - check your email.

[mufasa5446]

Do you think it’ll work?

Seeing if I can get one last mount out of this Gouda




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[abraham]

Do you think it’ll work?

Seeing if I can get one last mount out of this Gouda




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What are you putting on?

[CirqueScaler]

tgapp helped me mount two more of my own fucking skis. Included putting a fourth set of heel holes into the movements & also epoxying the toes, which had been put in dry.

[margotron]

I fucked up a couple inserts. Didn’t drill deep enough, when tapping, the tap bottomed out, causing the wood grooves to strip.

Will be epoxying the duck out of the 3 holes. Been good knowing ya boys

[grinch]

I fucked up a couple inserts. Didn’t drill deep enough, when tapping, the tap bottomed out, causing the wood grooves to strip.

Will be epoxying the duck out of the 3 holes. Been good knowing ya boys

I'd put heli coils bigger than the inserts in. Whenever i get a insert spinner(usually after a number of binding on/offs i occasionally have one spin). I just picked up more heli coiils at an auto parts store. I had a tap for them. Ill post a pic of the heliciil size. I just snipped them to length. Ezpz. I installed them with the epoxy. Clean ed any excess epoxy and screwed in the binding to have perfect alignment while the epoxy set up for 3 days(72 hr epoxy). Went back and took the screws out and added "vibratite" to the screws if the binding plates were plastic or just blue loctite if the binding plates were aluminium(blue eats plastic) and reinstalled the screws


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[mufasa5446]

What are you putting on?

I’m filling in the holes from a couple previous mounts with wood/epoxy because I’m going to mount them with shifts and the holes are about going to touch. I’m about to trim the plugs and figure out the mount exactly so I’ll know more soon


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[HAB]

Coming in hot - check your email.

Well, it's definitely not a Kingpin demo either. I'm stumped.

[margotron]

I'd put heli coils bigger than the inserts in. Whenever i get a insert spinner(usually after a number of binding on/offs i occasionally have one spin). I just picked up more heli coiils at an auto parts store. I had a tap for them. Ill post a pic of the heliciil size. I just snipped them to length. Ezpz. I installed them with the epoxy. Clean ed any excess epoxy and screwed in the binding to have perfect alignment while the epoxy set up for 3 days(72 hr epoxy). Went back and took the screws out and added "vibratite" to the screws if the binding plates were plastic or just blue loctite if the binding plates were aluminium(blue eats plastic) and reinstalled the screws


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With helicoils, the standard m5 screw works? I don’t know anything about helicoils but I’m down to learn.

Anything else to know?

1. Drill larger hole
2. Tap larger hole
3. Cut helicoils to length
4. Epoxy in
5. Fit with binding (something I always do too!)

[grinch]

With helicoils, the standard m5 screw works? I don’t know anything about helicoils but I’m down to learn.

Anything else to know?

1. Drill larger hole
2. Tap larger hole
3. Cut helicoils to length
4. Epoxy in
5. Fit with binding (something I always do too!)

You could use standard size ski helicoils but theyre the same diameter as your inserts that are now going to spin. Thise helicoils i posted are a bigger diameter that you screw the inserts into the helicoils. Then you just use the machine screws you wouldve used with the inserts you were installing. You have to drill and tap the ski for those, larger than standard diameter, helicoils as you would but then the inserts just screw right into those helicoils. No double epoxy steps. Just after u drill and tap the ski for the helicoils put your epoxy mix in, screw in the helicoil then screw in the insert right after. Wipe of excess epoxy well so theres no epoxy inside the insert or on the top sheet so it doesnt stick the binding plate to the topsheet. Then put your machine screws in with the binding to let the epoxy set up and that will help alignment. Go back after its cured and add loctite or vibratite to the machine screw /insert interface
The end result is you have an insert inside a larger diameter helicoil so in effect you now have fresh tapped threads in your ski to replace the threads that are currently damaged. You actually have more surface area of threads because those helicoils are bigger diameter and add more purchase, holding power
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[gregorys]

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-measurement

Sheesh - I thought I'd uploaded the template I created, but looking again, I see not. Now I can't find it. I know you don't need it now, but I'll dig around and see if I can find it.

[margotron]

You could use standard size ski helicoils but theyre the same diameter as your inserts that are now going to spin. Thise helicoils i posted are a bigger diameter that you screw the inserts into the helicoils. Then you just use the machine screws you wouldve used with the inserts you were installing. You have to drill and tap the ski for those, larger than standard diameter, helicoils as you would but then the inserts just screw right into those helicoils. No double epoxy steps. Just after u drill and tap the ski for the helicoils put your epoxy mix in, screw in the helicoil then screw in the insert right after. Wipe of excess epoxy well so theres no epoxy inside the insert or on the top sheet so it doesnt stick the binding plate to the topsheet. Then put your machine screws in with the binding to let the epoxy set up and that will help alignment. Go back after its cured and add loctite or vibratite to the machine screw /insert interface
The end result is you have an insert inside a larger diameter helicoil so in effect you now have fresh tapped threads in your ski to replace the threads that are currently damaged. You actually have more surface area of threads because those helicoils are bigger diameter and add more purchase, holding power
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Got it. Ok I’m golden from here. Didn’t realized the insert goes INTO the helicoil. Big step right there. Thanks man.

I’ll find those exact helicoils somewhere + tap kit

[Eluder]

I also assumed that, but like I noted in my first post, it's not a Duke either. The toe seems almost close but the heel isn't at all.

I am sure you are aware but their were 2 Duke mount patterns, similar but different. Both also had Small and Large rear hole patterns, so 4 possible variations.

[NW_SKIER]

I am sure you are aware but their were 2 Duke mount patterns, similar but different. Both also had Small and Large rear hole patterns, so 4 possible variations.

This^

[BCMtnHound]

I've messed up an insert installation (bit wandered somehow, using a paper template with the BF Drill guide block). I just mixed up some JB Weld steel epoxy, crammed that into the bad hole, let cure, re-drilled and tapped for the insert. No issues that I have noticed. The skis did have a metal topsheet, if that matters.
Could the same be done with a spinning insert? Remove insert, fill hole with the JB epoxy, then re-drill and tap? With my f-up above, I was tapping partly into new metal and core, so not 100% relying on the JB epoxy.

[HAB]

I am sure you are aware but their were 2 Duke mount patterns, similar but different. Both also had Small and Large rear hole patterns, so 4 possible variations.

Yup. The EPF has wider hole spacing and is nowhere close. The toe sort of almost lines up on the older one but isn't right, and the heel is off by a mile for either size.

[Eluder]

Yup. The EPF has wider hole spacing and is nowhere close. The toe sort of almost lines up on the older one but isn't right, and the heel is off by a mile for either size.

It almost looks like it could be one of those nerd Tele-tech setups.... but not enough holes

[stealurface831]

It almost looks like it could be one of those nerd Tele-tech setups.

This has been my thinking.