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  1. #3526
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,424
    Quote Originally Posted by wakefield View Post
    Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.

    I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.
    You can use a template or not but first figure out where fore/aft to mount the heel and put it at dead center, then mount the toe dead center by ONE screw only, allow the toe to VERY slightly rotate around that 1 screw, mark/drill all the rest of the toe piece screws with the boot locked into ski mode and everything should line up perfectly

    this will ^^ work for any frame type AT binding where you mount the heel and toe independently but they need to lineup/mesh perfectly
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #3527
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,623
    @xxx -er's advice is the way to go (heel first, one toe screw at a time), irrespective of whether or not you use a template.

    For toe holes #2-4, I've taken to using a larger drill bit (as close to a perfect fit in the toe piece holes) to "centerpunch" the holes. I drill very carefully - just enough to create a dimple.

    For inserts, I've taken to screwing in the binding while the epoxy is setting (remove afterwards for inspection and Vibra-tite). It helps straighten any minor tilting during insertion.

    I was always concerned that some epoxy would seep into the threads (overflow), but with care, this won't happen.

    Even if you use a tap guide, you can still tilt the inserts a bit when installing them. I use the double lock nut on a screw technique to install them, even though I use BF inserts with the screw slot. It helps minimize tilt in comparison with starting the insert off with the BF tool or straight-bladed screwdriver.

    I finish off with a screwdriver (blade ground "fat" to widen it for a good fit) to get the insert 1/3 to 1/2 turn below the top sheet level.

    Then ... there's the end mill approach if you own one ;-)

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 02-10-2020 at 01:06 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  3. #3528
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I fix a spinner with some chopped up 1/2 " FG cloth and 2part slow set epoxy, I wet out the FG strands with epoxy but not too resin rich, cram the mix into the hole, run the screw in till I know its about to spin and leave it to cure

    After a day to cure if I can crank down the screw its no longer a spinner, a few people here on TT have fixed spinners with this method
    Anything special about what fiberglass cloth you get? I was just going to get the stuff home depot carries: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo...0128/202077813

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  4. #3529
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,424
    yup that stuff is fine ^^ I just cut it into 1/2 inch lengths wet it out with epoxy and cram it in the screw hole

    i also used some to back up the crack in a thule box and probably some other things i don't remmeber
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #3530
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yup that stuff is fine ^^ I just cut it into 1/2 inch lengths wet it out with epoxy and cram it in the screw hole

    i also used some to back up the crack in a thule box and probably some other things i don't remmeber
    Hmm, sounds handy. Appreciate it

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  6. #3531
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    39
    I just ordered a replacement heel for a Dynafit TLT Speed Radical binding that I just broke. I donít know much about mounting bindings. Anything should know about mounting the replacement heel using the same holes? Use wood glue? Thanks in advance. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #3532
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,424
    The screws might be stuck so before you strip the head use use a soldering iron on the head for 10-20 sec to loosen up the screw,

    if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed to heat up the screw

    I would just use the same holes with slow set epoxy

    if any of them strip use the FG and epoxy as per above ^^
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #3533
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    The screws might be stuck so before you strip the head use use a soldering iron on the head for 10-20 sec to loosen up the screw,

    if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed to heat up the screw

    I would just use the same holes with slow set epoxy

    if any of them strip use the FG and epoxy as per above ^^
    Thanks! That sounds pretty simple. I don't want to invest any more than I have to for this setup since I bought it used but I'd like to ski this weekend.

  9. #3534
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    39
    One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.

  10. #3535
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by abcdethan View Post
    One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.
    I just use this stuff cause it's always in stock at home depot and its 24-hour cure. But do whatever XXX-er recommends.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...2001/100670610

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  11. #3536
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,424
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #3537
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Don't worry, I can manage that. Thanks for the concise info. Really helpful.

  13. #3538
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    7,148
    G/Flex from West Marine is the same stuff.

    I'll just add that the pullout strength is from the wood itself. The epoxy is to prevent water intrusion.

  14. #3539
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,424
    well if a hole is completeley stripped, so you cram it with slowset & FG cuz there isnt any wood left,

    the epoxy is doing > water curtailment
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #3540
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    140
    Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
    Last edited by Galbi; 02-13-2020 at 12:31 AM.

  16. #3541
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Galbi View Post
    Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
    Why wouldn't you use the bit that's recommended?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  17. #3542
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Why wouldn't you use the bit that's recommended?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    I don’t have. And no time to wait for it to be shipped prior to my trip.

  18. #3543
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler to Vail
    Posts
    2,146
    Quote Originally Posted by Galbi View Post
    I don’t have. And no time to wait for it to be shipped prior to my trip.
    Drill away with 3.6. I guarantee there are tons of shops that just use 3.6 on all their mounts.

  19. #3544
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Drill away with 3.6. I guarantee there are tons of shops that just use 3.6 on all their mounts.
    Sort of what I was leaning toward. Or 5/32 and tape.

  20. #3545
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    202
    Yup, fire away with the 3.6


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  21. #3546
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by waxloaf View Post
    Yup, fire away with the 3.6


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    shootz

  22. #3547
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,623
    I use a 3.6 and always tap the hole. The tap will work with every ski (although it's been a while since I've had a metal top layer) and I never have to wonder about the recommended bit.

    The above doesn't help the current situation, but why wait until 2 days before the next trip to have the same problem?
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  23. #3548
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.

  24. #3549
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    1,808
    I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  25. #3550
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    G Falls
    Posts
    324
    I always do. Itís hardly any extra work and Iím so much more confident in epoxy than anything else. Itís probably just a peace of mind thing but I do think epoxy is superior

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