Results 4,226 to 4,250 of 6863
-
12-07-2020, 10:43 AM #4226
-
12-07-2020, 11:32 AM #4227Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Posts
- 365
Lots of different methods outlined in this thread. All of them have their quirks. Lots of folks use a combination of methods to establish and then double check prior to drilling. I like the doubled up square/calipers method outlined elsewhere in here and double check with a center ruler printed on clear vinyl. I agree with resisting the urge to measure post mount unless it looks tweaked - our bodies are much more forgiving of errors than our tech talk brains. What we don’t know won’t hurt us!
-
12-07-2020, 12:01 PM #4228Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,085
you arent going to notice being off such a small distance
I don't like any method involving flacid pieces of paper
SO put green tape on the ski top, with your t-square measure to somewhere around the center of the ski from the metal edge & mark,
measure the SAME distance from the other metal edge to the center of the ski and mark, split the difference, that will be ski center
do this^^ in front and behind where the binding will go, run a piece of green tape between those marks, draw a line between them and you got ski center marked under your binding front to rear
check it twice
i like to drink but i don't drink when i mount fixed heel,
I do drink when I mount tele
it either turns out better or worse or bothLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-07-2020, 01:00 PM #4229
I have two cheap combination squares. I set each equal distance from the 15cm mark (pick whatever, this will be your center mark) a bit wider than the center of the ski then slide it up the ski until it contacts both sides, and add a mark to my taped ski at the 15. I do one fwd and aft then adjust to work near the center of the ski.
Could do it with just one square like XXX-er mentions and just split the difference, but this is easy and reliable since I have two.
-
12-07-2020, 01:03 PM #4230
a set of calipers also works
-
12-07-2020, 01:29 PM #4231
-
12-07-2020, 01:36 PM #4232Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- idaho panhandle!
- Posts
- 9,988
To me it looks like the mount is off 3/32. Guarantee that your boot to binding interface as well as the bindings construction will be off to some degree as well, you will not even notice it, or you will die.
-
12-07-2020, 01:38 PM #4233
all of these centering methods rely on eyeballing the start points in some manner, so pick your poison
-
12-07-2020, 02:05 PM #4234
SO for the highly technical "use epoxy and fiberglass" to fix a spinner trick....what type of epoxy should I be looking at? I believe I remember seeing g/flex mentioned in the past. Any cheaper options? Not sure I'll have another need for epoxy in a while. JB-Weld? It's basically just metal impregnated epoxy right? I'll bite the bullet and just get g/flex if that's the best option.
-
12-07-2020, 02:10 PM #4235
g-flex really shines when repairing delams because it has flexible properties. I buy the "single-serve" packs and keep a few around because I don't use it regularly and try to do a bunch of repairs at the same time.
I would say for a screw hole any marine epoxy would do the trick.
probably not jbweld, from what I've been told, it's better at bonding metal than fiberglass/wood fiber.
-
12-07-2020, 02:26 PM #4236Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2020
- Posts
- 65
any old hardware store 2 part if mixed with glass will be stronger x10 than what anyone needs.
-
12-07-2020, 02:33 PM #4237
-
12-07-2020, 02:33 PM #4238Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,085
Back in the day I put some unused 5 min epoxy on the end of a kayak paddle blade to see what would happen, it turned soft like a booger and fell off cuz it wasnt waterproof
IME JB weld is a paste so it doesn't really wet out a material or fill binding holes very well, i didnt like using it cuz of the way it works and the silver color looks fugly
You want a 2 part slow set epoxy, its usually waterproof, its less brittle than the 5 min stuff, I got some 2 part slow set that was about 30$
usually when some TGR poster is telling the rest of the class " I just used JB weld and yadayada ... " they are a hack describing something they hacked togetherLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-07-2020, 02:34 PM #4239Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Posts
- 1,426
-
12-07-2020, 03:13 PM #4240
Single serve packs are a good idea. I'll check the hardware store tonight and if nothing catches my eye I'll just order the G/flex. I know it's not a big cost, but there is a great chance I'll use a tiny bit for a screw hole then not use it again before it goes bad.
-
12-07-2020, 03:17 PM #4241
Binding freedom sells slow-set packets if you can't find any at hardware store.
Curious about these supposed g flex packets though, I'd love some of those!
Sent from my Pixel XL using TGR Forums mobile app
-
12-07-2020, 03:32 PM #4242
Fuck, sorry I misspoke. Not g-flex, I switched to Orange Hardman double/bubble packs because I too wasted g-flex by not using it fast enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Hardman-Doubl.../dp/B00J1AA3C0
-
12-07-2020, 08:15 PM #4243
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
I just put a piece of tape down the center, used a set of calipers about a foot in front of and a foot behind the mount points with a paper center ruler, then drew a line down the middle on the tape.
However the Marksmen I just did are asymmetrical so that made it a bit more challenging.
-
12-07-2020, 08:19 PM #4244
Concerning G-flex
Squeeze the air out of the a & b containers put inner lid back(instead of chucking), screw cap snuggly and store in cool dry place. Less light the better too
-
12-07-2020, 08:33 PM #4245Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- Down East
- Posts
- 265
I picked up some BSI (Bob Smith Industry) slow cure. I don’t have any long term experience with it. Is it any good?
-
12-07-2020, 09:08 PM #4246
I’ve seen jigs produce worse mounts, don’t worry about it.
As for finding ski center:
1: slap a strip of wide masking tape down the center
2: grab a speed square, and set it to roughly half the width of the ski and lock it.
3: using the the speed square against one edge, mark the ski, roughly in the middle.
4: flip the speed square to the other side of the ski, and use it to make a mark mirror image to the other one.
5: the middle of the ski is located perfectly between your marks.
Repeat a handful of times fore and aft of the recommended mount line as needed to align your template.
Oh, and print your templates on clear paper for maximum ease of alignment. Kinkos does it for like $0.50 a page if you don’t have transparency paper.
-
12-07-2020, 09:11 PM #4247
second ever mount, these are for the wifey
i'm pretty stoked
-
12-07-2020, 09:17 PM #4248
-
12-08-2020, 08:43 AM #4249Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Location
- Almost Mountains
- Posts
- 1,897
Note to self: when triple-checking hole position relative to ski edge and center, don't forget to check fore/aft position as well.
I guess we'll see if I can tell the difference with them on my feet.
Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
-
12-08-2020, 09:59 AM #4250Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,085
I came up with the idea late at night, I had the materials on-hand and i was probably high
rebuilding the material of a ski around the screws with epoxy/ FG is somewhat unprecedented so I want THE very best epoxy available for the job period which is 24 hr slowset
I have a bottle of the good stuff kicking around, I will never go thru the entire bottle but I find other uses to justify/amortise the cost per application, if you don't have other uses for slow set epoxy or you don't have any of the stuff or you are not handy maybe its more cost effective to just get a helicoil done ?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Bookmarks