Page 170 of 275 FirstFirst ... 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 ... LastLast
Results 4,226 to 4,250 of 6863
  1. #4226
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,367
    Quote Originally Posted by makimono View Post
    Motel Mattress Monoski Mount


    This is quality content.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #4227
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    365
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    How do you guys find center? I currently use a centering ruler but obviously that's not doing well for me. I was going to buy a centering tool from slidewright but he was sold out. To me this seems to be the hardest part. Suggestions
    Lots of different methods outlined in this thread. All of them have their quirks. Lots of folks use a combination of methods to establish and then double check prior to drilling. I like the doubled up square/calipers method outlined elsewhere in here and double check with a center ruler printed on clear vinyl. I agree with resisting the urge to measure post mount unless it looks tweaked - our bodies are much more forgiving of errors than our tech talk brains. What we don’t know won’t hurt us!

  3. #4228
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,085
    you arent going to notice being off such a small distance

    I don't like any method involving flacid pieces of paper


    SO put green tape on the ski top, with your t-square measure to somewhere around the center of the ski from the metal edge & mark,

    measure the SAME distance from the other metal edge to the center of the ski and mark, split the difference, that will be ski center

    do this^^ in front and behind where the binding will go, run a piece of green tape between those marks, draw a line between them and you got ski center marked under your binding front to rear



    check it twice


    i like to drink but i don't drink when i mount fixed heel,

    I do drink when I mount tele

    it either turns out better or worse or both
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #4229
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    459
    I have two cheap combination squares. I set each equal distance from the 15cm mark (pick whatever, this will be your center mark) a bit wider than the center of the ski then slide it up the ski until it contacts both sides, and add a mark to my taped ski at the 15. I do one fwd and aft then adjust to work near the center of the ski.

    Could do it with just one square like XXX-er mentions and just split the difference, but this is easy and reliable since I have two.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2335.JPG 
Views:	90 
Size:	865.8 KB 
ID:	351681

  5. #4230
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,610
    a set of calipers also works

  6. #4231
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,244
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    1/16 is 1.5mm, that means you were off my 0.75mm to one side, which could fully have happened during the drilling part. Even using a jig will give you variation like that.
    Not quite. He's off by 1/8 on one side, so 1/16 from center.

    Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

  7. #4232
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    9,988
    To me it looks like the mount is off 3/32. Guarantee that your boot to binding interface as well as the bindings construction will be off to some degree as well, you will not even notice it, or you will die.

  8. #4233
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,255
    all of these centering methods rely on eyeballing the start points in some manner, so pick your poison

  9. #4234
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    459
    SO for the highly technical "use epoxy and fiberglass" to fix a spinner trick....what type of epoxy should I be looking at? I believe I remember seeing g/flex mentioned in the past. Any cheaper options? Not sure I'll have another need for epoxy in a while. JB-Weld? It's basically just metal impregnated epoxy right? I'll bite the bullet and just get g/flex if that's the best option.

  10. #4235
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,610
    g-flex really shines when repairing delams because it has flexible properties. I buy the "single-serve" packs and keep a few around because I don't use it regularly and try to do a bunch of repairs at the same time.

    I would say for a screw hole any marine epoxy would do the trick.

    probably not jbweld, from what I've been told, it's better at bonding metal than fiberglass/wood fiber.

  11. #4236
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    65
    any old hardware store 2 part if mixed with glass will be stronger x10 than what anyone needs.

  12. #4237
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    482
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    SO for the highly technical "use epoxy and fiberglass" to fix a spinner trick....what type of epoxy should I be looking at? I believe I remember seeing g/flex mentioned in the past. Any cheaper options? Not sure I'll have another need for epoxy in a while. JB-Weld? It's basically just metal impregnated epoxy right? I'll bite the bullet and just get g/flex if that's the best option.
    I mean, it's 25 bucks and I find it really useful to have around
    90% of skiing is just looking cool

  13. #4238
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,085
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    SO for the highly technical "use epoxy and fiberglass" to fix a spinner trick....what type of epoxy should I be looking at? I believe I remember seeing g/flex mentioned in the past. Any cheaper options? Not sure I'll have another need for epoxy in a while. JB-Weld? It's basically just metal impregnated epoxy right? I'll bite the bullet and just get g/flex if that's the best option.
    Back in the day I put some unused 5 min epoxy on the end of a kayak paddle blade to see what would happen, it turned soft like a booger and fell off cuz it wasnt waterproof

    IME JB weld is a paste so it doesn't really wet out a material or fill binding holes very well, i didnt like using it cuz of the way it works and the silver color looks fugly

    You want a 2 part slow set epoxy, its usually waterproof, its less brittle than the 5 min stuff, I got some 2 part slow set that was about 30$



    usually when some TGR poster is telling the rest of the class " I just used JB weld and yadayada ... " they are a hack describing something they hacked together
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #4239
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,426
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    I buy the "single-serve" packs and keep a few around because I don't use it regularly and try to do a bunch of repairs at the same time.
    Single serve G-flex??
    Where?
    Smallest I've seen is the 8oz kit and it always dries out and thickens before I use most of it

  15. #4240
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    459
    Single serve packs are a good idea. I'll check the hardware store tonight and if nothing catches my eye I'll just order the G/flex. I know it's not a big cost, but there is a great chance I'll use a tiny bit for a screw hole then not use it again before it goes bad.

  16. #4241
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    768
    Binding freedom sells slow-set packets if you can't find any at hardware store.

    Curious about these supposed g flex packets though, I'd love some of those!

    Sent from my Pixel XL using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #4242
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,610
    Fuck, sorry I misspoke. Not g-flex, I switched to Orange Hardman double/bubble packs because I too wasted g-flex by not using it fast enough.

    https://www.amazon.com/Hardman-Doubl.../dp/B00J1AA3C0

  18. #4243
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,719

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    I just put a piece of tape down the center, used a set of calipers about a foot in front of and a foot behind the mount points with a paper center ruler, then drew a line down the middle on the tape.

    However the Marksmen I just did are asymmetrical so that made it a bit more challenging.

  19. #4244
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Concerning G-flex
    Squeeze the air out of the a & b containers put inner lid back(instead of chucking), screw cap snuggly and store in cool dry place. Less light the better too

  20. #4245
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    265
    I picked up some BSI (Bob Smith Industry) slow cure. I don’t have any long term experience with it. Is it any good?

  21. #4246
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    ...The left side measures 1" edge to binding and the right measures 1-1/8" edge to binding, so 1/16" off from center. Do you think it'll be noticeable when skiing? Is it enough to mess with the performance of the binding?

    How do you guys find center?
    I’ve seen jigs produce worse mounts, don’t worry about it.

    As for finding ski center:
    1: slap a strip of wide masking tape down the center
    2: grab a speed square, and set it to roughly half the width of the ski and lock it.
    3: using the the speed square against one edge, mark the ski, roughly in the middle.
    4: flip the speed square to the other side of the ski, and use it to make a mark mirror image to the other one.
    5: the middle of the ski is located perfectly between your marks.
    Repeat a handful of times fore and aft of the recommended mount line as needed to align your template.

    Oh, and print your templates on clear paper for maximum ease of alignment. Kinkos does it for like $0.50 a page if you don’t have transparency paper.

  22. #4247
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,315
    second ever mount, these are for the wifey

    i'm pretty stoked

  23. #4248
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    second ever mount, these are for the wifey

    i'm pretty stoked
    woof! ^^^

  24. #4249
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Almost Mountains
    Posts
    1,897
    Note to self: when triple-checking hole position relative to ski edge and center, don't forget to check fore/aft position as well.

    I guess we'll see if I can tell the difference with them on my feet.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  25. #4250
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,085
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    Single serve packs are a good idea. I'll check the hardware store tonight and if nothing catches my eye I'll just order the G/flex. I know it's not a big cost, but there is a great chance I'll use a tiny bit for a screw hole then not use it again before it goes bad.
    I came up with the idea late at night, I had the materials on-hand and i was probably high

    rebuilding the material of a ski around the screws with epoxy/ FG is somewhat unprecedented so I want THE very best epoxy available for the job period which is 24 hr slowset

    I have a bottle of the good stuff kicking around, I will never go thru the entire bottle but I find other uses to justify/amortise the cost per application, if you don't have other uses for slow set epoxy or you don't have any of the stuff or you are not handy maybe its more cost effective to just get a helicoil done ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •