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  1. #3501
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    751
    Mounted my own fucking skis, craigslist find GPOs with inserts for Tectons at -1. Already got to take them on a hut trip + some resort days and very satisfied. Great all around setup for soft snow.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Holes were drilled...very accurately

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #3502
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    273
    jb weld, with metal repairs it works ok

    can't think of a worthy ski fix for the product

    the g flex works very well from maintenance to major repairs, would recommend for everything in between

  3. #3503
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    6,176
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Agree about JB Weld in general.

    To clarify, my only reason for saying he should do it is that he would probably use something even more subject to water penetration as a short term solution. Guys in a panicked rush on their way to pow ;-)

    Poster ... maybe you have some Titebond-III (is that the indoor/outdoor version?)
    Ha. I did use glue for all screws so hopefully that’ll keep out some water.

    I may try to source some epoxy and FG here tomorrow

  4. #3504
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    1,251
    Eh, I don't see that much difference between JB and other 2-part epoxies (e.g. Marine Tex) for skis. JB is usually easier for me to find and easy to eyeball the mix (1:1 instead of 1:5 or whatever). I use a finish nail to fill the holes, it works fine.

  5. #3505
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Would you ever see jb in a real wood shop ?

    And btw the eh goes at the the back eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #3506
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by teledad View Post
    Eh, I don't see that much difference between JB and other 2-part epoxies (e.g. Marine Tex) for skis. JB is usually easier for me to find and easy to eyeball the mix (1:1 instead of 1:5 or whatever). I use a finish nail to fill the holes, it works fine.
    JB Weld and especially marine Tex are not the same as lower viscosity epoxies. Marine Tex is like a putty(think boat repairs) and JB a gel.
    I've filled plenty of screw holes w/ JB Weld. Guarantee it's a better seal than a glued in plastic plug(I use those too tho). Wet the hole out as best as possible and fill hole. I use the 5 min shit for this so you don't have to wait forever for curing to start. When catalyzation begins and JB still malleable, take a tamper the diameter of your hole and compress into hole. This should fill hole most of the way up. Then just topcoat w/ more JB.
    I've never fixed a spinner with JB, but see no reason why a serviceable repair could not be made(although I would encourage doing it proper the 1st time).

  7. #3507
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Posts
    15,779
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    Like em? Might buy some. The bindings. I’m not a fan of the skis.
    Those weren’t mine. The guy was stoked on them tho. The thread about the bindings here on TRG has some stories about breakage, but I thought they’re pretty clever bindings and I’m considering getting some.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ritschi-Tecton

  8. #3508
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Oakland
    Posts
    150
    Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.

    I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.

  9. #3509
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    Quote Originally Posted by wakefield View Post
    Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.

    I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.
    Drill press wont make a difference... what will is making sure your holes are very accurately located... so take your time with your centre punch and make sure your template is aligned straight and you'll be fine.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  10. #3510
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    751
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    Like em? Might buy some. The bindings. I’m not a fan of the skis.
    I have been skiing them for two seasons now and like them a lot. Lighter than shifts or kingpins and I have never had a pre release at my "chart" DIN. I ski them in bounds a bunch and forget they aren't an alpine binding.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using TGR Forums mobile app

  11. #3511
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by wakefield View Post
    Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.

    I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.
    Eh. Getting the toe and heel aligned is maybe a bit more important than it is with an alpine binding, but it's still not rocket surgery. You'll be fine.

    If you want to be really careful about alignment (depending on the binding you're mounting), mount the toe, then click the boot into it, slide the heel piece pins into the boot from behind, and set the heel piece down on the ski. Use that to check the hole locations. Works better with some bindings than others, depending how much the heel piece covers the screws.

  12. #3512
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    1,251
    What works for me (including race bindings with no heel adjustment) is to carefully mount the toe with the template, click the boot in, line up the heel in the boot and make sure it's aligned properly and the heel gap looks right. Mark the holes, drill and screw one hole, click the boot in and make sure it's still good. Take out the boot and drill the rest.

    You can also start the other way - mount the heel first, then use the boot and binding to line up the toe.

  13. #3513
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    Quote Originally Posted by fleaches View Post
    Holes were drilled...very accurately
    Lol, that's how I do it, except I use a collet instead of a chuck. It's also handy to use a 1/4" end mill if you're doing inserts in holes that were originally done with a jig, so you end up with a square pattern that's centered on the ski (assuming the jig holes aren't too far off and are within the 1/4").

    Lemmie know if you want my measurements/coordinates for Salomon & Fritschi, the popular templates tend to round to the nearest mm. Which is fine for wood screws, but can be noticeable if using inserts.

  14. #3514
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    612
    Just picked up some J Skis metals at their warehouse sale. Does anyone know what the mounts are? Looks like Telemark but I'm not totally sure

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  15. #3515
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by Teenaged View Post
    Just picked up some J Skis metals at their warehouse sale. Does anyone know what the mounts are? Looks like Telemark but I'm not totally sure

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    13 holes, I think that's what the Meidjo has. Which yes, is tele. Looks like it could be that.

  16. #3516
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by Wawawa View Post
    13 holes, I think that's what the Meidjo has. Which yes, is tele. Looks like it could be that.
    So 13 holes for a single mount? Damn I thought it was a weird 1.5x mount situation. Thanks for the info

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  17. #3517
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by Teenaged View Post
    So 13 holes for a single mount? Damn I thought it was a weird 1.5x mount situation. Thanks for the info

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Yeah, it's pretty over the top. Some modern tele bindings have 11 holes, and some have 8, but Meidjos take the cake.

  18. #3518
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by wakefield View Post
    Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.

    I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.
    You can use a template or not but first figure out where fore/aft to mount the heel and put it at dead center, then mount the toe dead center by ONE screw only, allow the toe to VERY slightly rotate around that 1 screw, mark/drill all the rest of the toe piece screws with the boot locked into ski mode and everything should line up perfectly

    this will ^^ work for any frame type AT binding where you mount the heel and toe independently but they need to lineup/mesh perfectly
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #3519
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    @xxx -er's advice is the way to go (heel first, one toe screw at a time), irrespective of whether or not you use a template.

    For toe holes #2-4, I've taken to using a larger drill bit (as close to a perfect fit in the toe piece holes) to "centerpunch" the holes. I drill very carefully - just enough to create a dimple.

    For inserts, I've taken to screwing in the binding while the epoxy is setting (remove afterwards for inspection and Vibra-tite). It helps straighten any minor tilting during insertion.

    I was always concerned that some epoxy would seep into the threads (overflow), but with care, this won't happen.

    Even if you use a tap guide, you can still tilt the inserts a bit when installing them. I use the double lock nut on a screw technique to install them, even though I use BF inserts with the screw slot. It helps minimize tilt in comparison with starting the insert off with the BF tool or straight-bladed screwdriver.

    I finish off with a screwdriver (blade ground "fat" to widen it for a good fit) to get the insert 1/3 to 1/2 turn below the top sheet level.

    Then ... there's the end mill approach if you own one ;-)

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 02-10-2020 at 01:06 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  20. #3520
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,382
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I fix a spinner with some chopped up 1/2 " FG cloth and 2part slow set epoxy, I wet out the FG strands with epoxy but not too resin rich, cram the mix into the hole, run the screw in till I know its about to spin and leave it to cure

    After a day to cure if I can crank down the screw its no longer a spinner, a few people here on TT have fixed spinners with this method
    Anything special about what fiberglass cloth you get? I was just going to get the stuff home depot carries: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo...0128/202077813

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  21. #3521
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    yup that stuff is fine ^^ I just cut it into 1/2 inch lengths wet it out with epoxy and cram it in the screw hole

    i also used some to back up the crack in a thule box and probably some other things i don't remmeber
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #3522
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,382
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yup that stuff is fine ^^ I just cut it into 1/2 inch lengths wet it out with epoxy and cram it in the screw hole

    i also used some to back up the crack in a thule box and probably some other things i don't remmeber
    Hmm, sounds handy. Appreciate it

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  23. #3523
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    209
    I just ordered a replacement heel for a Dynafit TLT Speed Radical binding that I just broke. I don’t know much about mounting bindings. Anything should know about mounting the replacement heel using the same holes? Use wood glue? Thanks in advance. Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #3524
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    The screws might be stuck so before you strip the head use use a soldering iron on the head for 10-20 sec to loosen up the screw,

    if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed to heat up the screw

    I would just use the same holes with slow set epoxy

    if any of them strip use the FG and epoxy as per above ^^
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #3525
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    209
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    The screws might be stuck so before you strip the head use use a soldering iron on the head for 10-20 sec to loosen up the screw,

    if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed to heat up the screw

    I would just use the same holes with slow set epoxy

    if any of them strip use the FG and epoxy as per above ^^
    Thanks! That sounds pretty simple. I don't want to invest any more than I have to for this setup since I bought it used but I'd like to ski this weekend.

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