PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[~mikey b]

nice work Ben

[jarrod7219]

Many DIY things can go wrong, but more go right. Make good choices, and own the results.

[SirVicSmasher]

Mounted my own fucking skis today.

Attachment 342730

I used my carpenters square to X out some centerline dots on painters tape. Seemed to be pretty quick method as well as accurate (within .1mm with the calipers which is within my tolerances pencil in the centerline and the mount line and I’m ready for my “jig”.

Attachment 342735

I used a few scrap pieces of lexan to make a more durable template, basically scribed in a centerline then matched it up with the paper template and drilled the holes. Labeled everything including my 315 bsl position to make it a bit easier to mount up.

Attachment 342737

Lay it out, clamp it down, drill it up, done. No beverage due to sober October.

Attachment 342738

this is my method to the T well done

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[AZskibum]

How tight do you guys go with the screws? Just feel it out? Debating a torque wrench or just drinking more beer and going a quarter turn past tight.

[~mikey b]

yeah use a torque wrench that’ll work great

[2FUNKY]

How tight do you guys go with the screws? Just feel it out? Debating a torque wrench or just drinking more beer and going a quarter turn past tight.

Lol, get them gutentight, no more or they’ll strip.

[XXX-er]

til they strip and back it off 1/4 turn

[3PinGrin]

How tight do you guys go with the screws? Just feel it out? Debating a torque wrench or just drinking more beer and going a quarter turn past tight.

That's a great idea. I would go about 75 Nm.

[HAB]

That's a great idea. I would go about 75 Nm.

I just use a pneumatic impact driver. I've only plowed the screws through a binding and screwed the ski to my workbench once, so the overall time savings seems worth it.

[jackattack]

Why bother with the extra weight and complexity of screws? Just epoxy the binding to the topsheet.

[XXX-er]

2 sided carpet tape ^^

Fixing typers & printers I learned "the feel" early on cuz anything I stripped/broke I had to fix , I don't know how to describe the right amount of tork other than if it broke ... that was too much

IMO when it comes to layout or drilling holes you can work-around any part of ski mounting with a T-square & a 5/32nd bit
but what you can't work around is the need for a real PZ3 bit



If i was getting paid to mount as many skis as I could in an 8hr shift I would have all the right tools & use an appropriately set screw gun to save my hands for one pair of skis a year I would just use regular hand tools

[~mikey b]

with the impact driver you don't really even need to drill holes, just ram the screws in there and go skiing

[3PinGrin]

How tight do you guys go with the screws? Just feel it out? Debating a torque wrench or just drinking more beer and going a quarter turn past tight.

Okay, some real advice now When you drop the screw into the hole, slowly turn it backwards until you feel it "drop" into the old threads. That works more often than not, sometimes it's a little hard to tell. Then snug by hand firmly but not as hard as you can. You don't really need to put much leverage into it, and you will feel it firm up.





unless you get a spinner....

[YaBoyBlue]

I’ve used a drill in the past to remove and then set some binding screws (swapping bindings to new skis), with the clutch backed way out. I have always hand tightened though. And tapped threads.


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[XXX-er]

Okay, some real advice now When you drop the screw into the hole, slowly turn it backwards until you feel it "drop" into the old threads. That works more often than not, sometimes it's a little hard to tell. Then snug by hand firmly but not as hard as you can. You don't really need to put much leverage into it, and you will feel it firm up.
..

yeah this ^^ if you turn the screw backward using just the bit its easier to feel the start of the thread

[caulfield]

Apparently you tee'd up all the comedians. Tapping helps feel you feel the bottom better but either way you'll figure it out after like the third one of your first pair so it'll have 13 good ones. And most (all?) screws and bindings have those little ridges on the parts where they contact. When you're tightening, they feel like zipper at first, then start individual index clicks. I do maybe 3-5 of the clicks, but it's another feel thing that you'll figure out. Whatever those ridges are called, I like them.

The tutorial I read when I started said to make sure downward pressure on your driver is greater than rotational pressure and I thought that was good advice.

[3PinGrin]

Apparently you tee'd up all the comedians. Tapping helps feel you feel the bottom better but either way you'll figure it out after like the third one of your first pair so it'll have 13 good ones. And most (all?) screws and bindings have those little ridges on the parts where they contact. When you're tightening, they feel like zipper at first, then start individual index clicks. I do maybe 3-5 of the clicks, but it's another feel thing that you'll figure out. Whatever those ridges are called, I like them.

The tutorial I read when I started said to make sure downward pressure on your driver is greater than rotational pressure and I thought that was good advice.

ribbed screw head is what I've always called it

[phatboy64]

Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?

[waxloaf]

^^

As long as they hold tight and there aren’t any spinners I don’t worry about it. There isnt a magic number and it depends on a lot of factors like how well the old holes were sealed to keep moisture out.

You’ll have a pretty good sense when you’re screwing the binding in whether its solid or not


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[~mikey b]

yeah it's not that hard - you'll know

[phatboy64]

Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

[~mikey b]

I do not like GG (except GG Alin). I do like a two part epoxy. Other people like a good wood glue and that's probably ok too. I know people that use urethane stuff like Seam Grip or Aqua Seal. Hell, you can even buy binding glue.

[~mikey b]

Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?

that many

[HAB]

Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?

As many times as you can reinstall the screws cleanly without stripping them. Kind of a pat answer but it depends a lot on how careful you are, and a bit how the ski is constructed.

If you're planning on doing it a lot, do inserts.

[3PinGrin]

Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

Whenever I reuse holes I use slow set 24 hour marine epoxy. I used Titebond III glue for several years but had instances of rusty screws, I've since switched to Gorilla Glue construction adhesive for newly drilled holes. Stays flexible and the screws are easily removed. I haven't used it long enough to know how it will do long term, but it's very easy to deal with compared to epoxy.

One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than wood glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.