nice work Ben
nice work Ben
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
Many DIY things can go wrong, but more go right. Make good choices, and own the results.
How tight do you guys go with the screws? Just feel it out? Debating a torque wrench or just drinking more beer and going a quarter turn past tight.
yeah use a torque wrench that’ll work great
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
til they strip and back it off 1/4 turn
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Why bother with the extra weight and complexity of screws? Just epoxy the binding to the topsheet.
2 sided carpet tape ^^
Fixing typers & printers I learned "the feel" early on cuz anything I stripped/broke I had to fix , I don't know how to describe the right amount of tork other than if it broke ... that was too much
IMO when it comes to layout or drilling holes you can work-around any part of ski mounting with a T-square & a 5/32nd bit
but what you can't work around is the need for a real PZ3 bit
If i was getting paid to mount as many skis as I could in an 8hr shift I would have all the right tools & use an appropriately set screw gun to save my hands for one pair of skis a year I would just use regular hand tools
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
with the impact driver you don't really even need to drill holes, just ram the screws in there and go skiing
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
Okay, some real advice now When you drop the screw into the hole, slowly turn it backwards until you feel it "drop" into the old threads. That works more often than not, sometimes it's a little hard to tell. Then snug by hand firmly but not as hard as you can. You don't really need to put much leverage into it, and you will feel it firm up.
unless you get a spinner....
I’ve used a drill in the past to remove and then set some binding screws (swapping bindings to new skis), with the clutch backed way out. I have always hand tightened though. And tapped threads.
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Apparently you tee'd up all the comedians. Tapping helps feel you feel the bottom better but either way you'll figure it out after like the third one of your first pair so it'll have 13 good ones. And most (all?) screws and bindings have those little ridges on the parts where they contact. When you're tightening, they feel like zipper at first, then start individual index clicks. I do maybe 3-5 of the clicks, but it's another feel thing that you'll figure out. Whatever those ridges are called, I like them.
The tutorial I read when I started said to make sure downward pressure on your driver is greater than rotational pressure and I thought that was good advice.
Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.
How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?
^^
As long as they hold tight and there aren’t any spinners I don’t worry about it. There isnt a magic number and it depends on a lot of factors like how well the old holes were sealed to keep moisture out.
You’ll have a pretty good sense when you’re screwing the binding in whether its solid or not
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yeah it's not that hard - you'll know
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...
I do not like GG (except GG Alin). I do like a two part epoxy. Other people like a good wood glue and that's probably ok too. I know people that use urethane stuff like Seam Grip or Aqua Seal. Hell, you can even buy binding glue.
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
Whenever I reuse holes I use slow set 24 hour marine epoxy. I used Titebond III glue for several years but had instances of rusty screws, I've since switched to Gorilla Glue construction adhesive for newly drilled holes. Stays flexible and the screws are easily removed. I haven't used it long enough to know how it will do long term, but it's very easy to deal with compared to epoxy.
One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than wood glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.
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