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  1. #3301
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
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    5,845
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    The rulers can be used between calipers placed on edge, also, like you can with the Centering Sticker:
    This is the method I've settled on. It's fast, relatively simple tools, and measures from the base edge rather than the topsheet. I typically draw 7 or so marks -- one at boot center, 3 on each side. And then take the line that is the best between them with a long straight edge. Takes all of 2 minutes per ski.

  2. #3302
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Not Brooklyn
    Posts
    8,320
    I skip the center line altogether. I just use calipers to measure from the template centerline to the ski edge on both sides, making small adjustments moving the tape until the measurements are even.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using TGR Forums mobile app

  3. #3303
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    This is the method I've settled on. It's fast, relatively simple tools, and measures from the base edge rather than the topsheet. I typically draw 7 or so marks -- one at boot center, 3 on each side. And then take the line that is the best between them with a long straight edge. Takes all of 2 minutes per ski.
    Sure that works, but imagine how great it would be to have a Lego centering tool with Batman holding a laser guide. I'd be finding centers on everything in the house.

    I'm working on a Barbie inspired version. You spread her legs over the ski and she's got a little light that shines out her woohoo, and as you move her up and down the ski it traces the center line.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  4. #3304
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    T square held against steel edge, put a mark mid ski ish on painters tape, move T quare to other steel edge make another mark the same distance from edge, splitting the difference between the marks gives you ski center

    do this again so there are ski center marks 18" apart at mid ski, draw a line between the 2 marks and you got a center line at mid ski

    All I use is a t square and a tape measure for all my ski layout cuz mounting ski bindings is really just good layout and so this does not have to be complicated

    If I was doing more skis for money I would come up with a faster method but this ain't that
    Last edited by XXX-er; 12-26-2019 at 04:14 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #3305
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    I'm killing it lately on mounts so I challenged myself last evening. I mounted a pair of Attacks on J skis Allplay with only the following :\
    --pencil
    --small L square with cm markings
    --painters tape
    --bsl length w/out the actual boot
    --cordless drill
    --drill bit
    --glue
    --screwdriver

    No templates, no beer, no bench and I was done in an hr.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  6. #3306
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Yes. I've been working on this for a while. I'm ironing out a couple design tweaks and CNC issues for production and should have more ready within a week:

    Find your ski center in seconds:

    • Place the SkiScribe diagonally on the top of the ski with the pegs against the edges in front of the binding toe piece.
    • Run the SkiScribe down the edge or make tick marks with a SHARP pencil in the center holder creating a line matching the ski's contour.
    • Rotate the SkiScribe and repeat on the other edge.
    • Repeat behind the binding heel piece.
    • Double check Ski Edge to closest line on each side for a match. Adjust if necessary.
    • Split the difference between the two lines and mark the center in front & rear locations.
    • Draw a centerline with a straight edge.
    • Place binding template or jig on ceter line and Boot Sole Center (BSL)


    The center hole I'm considering is 5/16"/8mm all the way through instead of the 2mm one shown. This is larger than a pencil diameter and wrapping tape around a pencil will remove slop.

    It can also be used to align the tap vertically (especially a Snoli Threadcutter). Since SkiScribe is made out of wood DO NOT use it as a drill guide.

    As an aside, it also works OK as a true bar.

    There are two 'rulers' laser etched into the sides. One is the same as the SlideWright Centering Ruler Sticker. The other is a new ruler to measure from the Ski Edge to the Center. The two options provide unlimited uses, including the following:

    • The Centering Ruler can quickly ballpark ski width and center relative to the ski edges at any given changing width down the ski. This can give quick reference for centerline location.
    • Measure center between two screw holes and their layout
    • Measure screw lengths directly or installed length from top of binding
    • Locate the center of odd shape or linear items up to 140mm/5 1/2"
    • A handy tool for countless uses beyond skis
    i live and die with your slidewright centering ruler. Sign me up for one of these. Is there a guinea pig price?


  7. #3307
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,363
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    mounting ski bindings is really just good layout and so this does not have to be complicated
    Agreed. It’s not rocket surgery.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #3308
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    on the banks of Fish Creek
    Posts
    7,514
    really? have you ever surgered a rocket? hmmm?

  9. #3309
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    T square held against steel edge, put a mark mid ski ish on painters tape, move T quare to other steel edge make another mark the same distance from edge, splitting the difference between the marks gives you ski center

    do this again so there are ski center marks 18" apart at mid ski, draw a line between the 2 marks and you got a center line at mid ski

    All I use is a t square and a tape measure for all my ski layout cuz mounting ski bindings is really just good layout and so this does not have to be complicated

    If I was doing more skis for money I would come up with a faster method but this ain't that
    I'm going to use this going forward. Simple, repeatable, and accurate. Thanks.

  10. #3310
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    I used to say "it isn't rocket biology "

    But then someone always takes my deadpan/pithy comments seriously and I have to splain myself
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #3311
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    2,031
    For the sharpest, most consistent, thin line, Please base your devices on a Papermate #2 yellow plastic mechanical pencil.

    Seriously the best. Buy the 10 pack. You will love them.

    Much more accurate than a pen.

  12. #3312
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,855
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    For the sharpest, most consistent, thin line, Please base your devices on a Papermate #2 yellow plastic mechanical pencil.

    Seriously the best. Buy the 10 pack. You will love them.

    Much more accurate than a pen.
    Interesting. 0.7mm? I had been thinking 0.5mm. Have you tried softer lead (HB) than #2 to reduce tape tear? I've also considered supplying colored leads. What's the width flat to flat face and corner to corner?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  13. #3313
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    177
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    Getting used to this now. Note to self don’t drink double espresso beforehand.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #3314
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,845
    That's a baller setup. Me gusta.

  15. #3315
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    177
    Concurrent activity; my boy builds a killer robot from mega blocks.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #3316
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,536
    Quote Originally Posted by pembyguy View Post

    Getting used to this now. Note to self don’t drink double espresso beforehand.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Double IPA

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  17. #3317
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,536
    Hey does anyone have excess little rubber plugs they dont want? I like using them to plug existing holes but some don't.
    I got a pack of 50 and used them all up remounting bindings.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  18. #3318
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    Double IPA

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    That’s excellent advice


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  19. #3319
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Interesting. 0.7mm? I had been thinking 0.5mm. Have you tried softer lead (HB) than #2 to reduce tape tear? I've also considered supplying colored leads. What's the width flat to flat face and corner to corner?
    Back several lives ago they gave us the mechanical pencils to fill out work order slips which were fed into a machine that optically read them to capture data to decide ba whole bunch of things that were mostly FUBar

    IME In real life .5mm is pretty fucking delicate and put holes in whatever you were trying to write on and the lead constantly breaks whereas a .7 mm lead didn't break and didn't fuck up whatever you were trying to write on

    How exact does a line drawn on a piece of painters tape have to be ??
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3320
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,855
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Back several lives ago they gave us the mechanical pencils to fill out work order slips which were fed into a machine that optically read them to capture data to decide ba whole bunch of things that were mostly FUBar

    IME In real life .5mm is pretty fucking delicate and put holes in whatever you were trying to write on and the lead constantly breaks whereas a .7 mm lead didn't break and didn't fuck up whatever you were trying to write on

    How exact does a line drawn on a piece of painters tape have to be ??
    I'm inclined to agree that the .5 is too delicate and the .7 is fine enough. With a long history using mechanical pencils and lead holders with different lead hardnesses, Rapidographs down to 000, and CAD drawing it's a rabbit hole of options and accuracies vs KISS with reasonable and realistic accuracy, along with moderate durability.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  21. #3321
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    Hey does anyone have excess little rubber plugs they dont want? I like using them to plug existing holes but some don't.
    I got a pack of 50 and used them all up remounting bindings.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Probably, I can check when I get home tomorrow.

    Does anybody have a good technique for getting those damn things out? I just picked up some skis that have a few installed but I'm putting holes awfully close and I'd rather take them out and replace with epoxied in bamboo.

  22. #3322
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    751
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Probably, I can check when I get home tomorrow.

    Does anybody have a good technique for getting those damn things out? I just picked up some skis that have a few installed but I'm putting holes awfully close and I'd rather take them out and replace with epoxied in bamboo.
    Drive a deck screw into them just a bit, then yank em out

  23. #3323
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,363
    ^^^ this. Drill a tiny pilot hole, send a drywall screw in a few threads (not too far!), then pull out with a claw hammer. A block under the hammer help get a bit more leverage to pull them out cleanly


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #3324
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Yup, that sounds like a good way to do it. Thanks!

  25. #3325
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    654
    Well shit, went to do a simple inserting tonight using existing holes. Of course when I pulled off the heels I found the shop “tech” put the new holes real close to a prior set. Too close IMO, like it would have been that hard the give a little clearance? Such is life.

    I feel like the consensus is gonna be to adjust the heel position up or back to get decent clearance of prior holes?

    Or with it being 2 of the 4—would pulling the two plastic plugs and epoxying in some wood (or whatevs) give enough structure to insert using current holes?

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