Results 5,476 to 5,500 of 6844
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02-26-2022, 11:09 PM #5476
I think raw looks really solid with that setup. Hotel mount, huh? That's dedication.
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02-26-2022, 11:14 PM #5477
bitchin
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02-26-2022, 11:59 PM #5478
Threw a cast setup on my downs. Super stoked on this setup.
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02-27-2022, 11:19 PM #5479
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02-28-2022, 10:45 AM #5480Registered User
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if you twirl the driver/ screw BACKWARDS in the hole GENTLY enough with yer pinkies to feel the screw threads come around & drop into the old threads in the ski you got a much better chance of the screw not stripping out the old threads in the ski as it tries to cut new threads
If the hole is spinning/ facked use good quality slow set, with chopped fg or steel wool, don't crank the screw down hard on initial pst where it will spin on instal,
2days later the epoxy will be cured so if you can crank it down without spinning you no longer have a spinner
or just use a heli-coil if you got oneLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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02-28-2022, 11:54 AM #5481
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02-28-2022, 06:05 PM #5482Registered User
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so you did it and had sucess ^^ great , if you had the slow-set kicking around the fix costs nothing,
I know others ( LC for one) have used it sucessfuly
I think when i suggest it people don't understand/ can't see it workingLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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03-01-2022, 03:45 PM #5483Registered User
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What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.
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03-01-2022, 05:48 PM #5484with stoopid
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03-01-2022, 07:15 PM #5485
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03-01-2022, 09:54 PM #5486Registered User
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- Dec 2020
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The BF screws are solid in terms of quality. I think hex is better than Pozidriv but with the right PZ driver or bits the Pozidriv screws don't seem to strip easily.
I'd get a small torque wrench and some bits, torque to 4nm and you shouldn't get any stripped heads.
They are M5 x .8 machine screws, McMaster has tons of options. I'm using some 3mm hex head stainless ones that work fine.
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03-01-2022, 09:54 PM #5487
Hole spacing question...
Assuming the hole spacing for a mount are all a safe distance from old holes, is it worse to have more holes in a line along the width of a ski than along the length?
I.e. a potential mount has 2 holes mostly in between (and a smidgen in front of) 2 existing holes.
My hunch is that it's worse but would like to hear from others.
Ski is 115 under foot so there's a decent amount of relatively stiff under foot core there, but no metal.Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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03-02-2022, 07:34 AM #5488Registered User
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- Nov 2020
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- 237
Probably worse for them to have them be in line along the width. My rationale - skis bend a lot more along the length than along with width. It's like you're milling out a pocket to save weight. If you wanted the ski to maintain longitudinal stiffness, you'd mill the pocket along the length. If you wanted it to maintain torsional stiffness, you'd mill the pocket edge to edge. Line blades use this concept - they have metal in the ski that goes edge to edge so it doesn't rotate like a noodle, but the metal has breaks in it along the length so you don't have to be a world cup racer to bend it.
That said, it's gonna be under the binding so you probably have nothing to worry about.
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03-02-2022, 08:28 AM #5489
I'd second that line of thought. Multiple holes along the width bring up the image of a perforated piece of cardboard. Spooky.
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03-02-2022, 09:13 AM #5490
Yeah that's what I was thinking.
I have a second binding option that's a little different in placement I think I'll go with.Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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03-02-2022, 09:16 AM #5491Registered User
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I think you are cutting more strands of wood when you put more holes in a row across a ski so its more likely to break the ski than if the holes are in a row length wise,
I seen a ski break where buddy put an extra set of holes across a ski to put binding wedges underneath so the new set of holes were right next to the old set, instead of just pulling out the ski broke in half at the binding, It was way back in the day so a 67mm waisted foam core kniessel 210 slalom ski, buddy was a 280lb crazy guy bashing mogulsLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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03-02-2022, 10:53 AM #5492Registered User
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- Jan 2011
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03-02-2022, 01:20 PM #5493Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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03-02-2022, 08:12 PM #5494
Anyone know where I can order some Tyrolia Attack heelpiece screws? I've previously ordered replacement screws from Tognar, but I realized that Attacks use Pan head screwheads vs the flat, countersunk screw heads that Tognar offers.
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03-02-2022, 08:37 PM #5495
Slidewright has Pan head screws, plus there is a TGR discount cause he's a Mag!
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03-02-2022, 08:48 PM #5496
I saw that after I posted, and think filing them to the correct length would work out. Happy to support em too - I've used the ski centering template countless times. Thanks!
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03-03-2022, 10:37 AM #5497
question about mounting around existing holes.
switching from shifts to STH2s for the same BSL.
is it kosher to mount the toes for the proper BSL and then just shift the heel forward 1cm to avoid the shift heel mounts?
that should keep me within the adjustment range with 5mm to spare.
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03-03-2022, 11:14 AM #5498Registered User
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Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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03-03-2022, 11:43 AM #5499Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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yes
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03-03-2022, 12:26 PM #5500
Mentioned this a few places on this forum already but... buy blue zinc coated hardware...there is no point in having a stainless steel interface on an already stainless threaded insert.
Personally I try to shoot for T25 drive fasteners as they're much less likely to strip out. Not sure why BF or QK havent gotten on this wagon thus far.
For purchasing - McNugget is the way to go, but its pricy, you could also just find similar screws on Amazon."Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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