Page 220 of 274 FirstFirst ... 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 ... LastLast
Results 5,476 to 5,500 of 6844
  1. #5476
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
    Posts
    622
    I think raw looks really solid with that setup. Hotel mount, huh? That's dedication.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  2. #5477
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    seatown
    Posts
    4,117
    bitchin

  3. #5478
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Threw a cast setup on my downs. Super stoked on this setup.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #5479
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by OJ204 View Post
    Thanks, done, better now. Just shaved the deformation around the screw holes. I still don’t like remounting.
    It always makes me nervous to disturb to fix an issue after fastening down the screws. Coarse thread screws, wood, kind of sketchy, ok lets carefully try to use the same thread again, please don't spin...

  5. #5480
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    if you twirl the driver/ screw BACKWARDS in the hole GENTLY enough with yer pinkies to feel the screw threads come around & drop into the old threads in the ski you got a much better chance of the screw not stripping out the old threads in the ski as it tries to cut new threads

    If the hole is spinning/ facked use good quality slow set, with chopped fg or steel wool, don't crank the screw down hard on initial pst where it will spin on instal,

    2days later the epoxy will be cured so if you can crank it down without spinning you no longer have a spinner



    or just use a heli-coil if you got one
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #5481
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    185
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    if you twirl the driver/ screw BACKWARDS in the hole GENTLY enough with yer pinkies to feel the screw threads come around & drop into the old threads in the ski you got a much better chance of the screw not stripping out the old threads in the ski as it tries to cut new threads

    If the hole is spinning/ facked use good quality slow set, with chopped fg or steel wool, don't crank the screw down hard on initial pst where it will spin on instal,

    2days later the epoxy will be cured so if you can crank it down without spinning you no longer have a spinner



    or just use a heli-coil if you got one
    the gflex + fiberglass cloth trick was money for a single spinner when i swapped out AFDs for GW on some pivot 15s the past week.
    setting the screws in the old threads with some epoxy did the trick for the other 7 screws

  7. #5482
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    so you did it and had sucess ^^ great , if you had the slow-set kicking around the fix costs nothing,

    I know others ( LC for one) have used it sucessfuly

    I think when i suggest it people don't understand/ can't see it working
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #5483
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    832
    What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.

  9. #5484
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    everyday sunshine
    Posts
    312
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.
    I buy packs off allen heads from McMaster Carr for inserts. They torque really well with a T handle Allen wrench and the heads don’t strip out.

  10. #5485
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    185
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.
    are you using an actual pozi screwdriver? cuz using a phillips will strip a pozidrive head
    mcmaster carr has great stuff, and i've personally have nothing but good things to say about the BF screws

  11. #5486
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    679
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.
    The BF screws are solid in terms of quality. I think hex is better than Pozidriv but with the right PZ driver or bits the Pozidriv screws don't seem to strip easily.

    I'd get a small torque wrench and some bits, torque to 4nm and you shouldn't get any stripped heads.

    They are M5 x .8 machine screws, McMaster has tons of options. I'm using some 3mm hex head stainless ones that work fine.

  12. #5487
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    Hole spacing question...

    Assuming the hole spacing for a mount are all a safe distance from old holes, is it worse to have more holes in a line along the width of a ski than along the length?

    I.e. a potential mount has 2 holes mostly in between (and a smidgen in front of) 2 existing holes.

    My hunch is that it's worse but would like to hear from others.

    Ski is 115 under foot so there's a decent amount of relatively stiff under foot core there, but no metal.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  13. #5488
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Hole spacing question...

    Assuming the hole spacing for a mount are all a safe distance from old holes, is it worse to have more holes in a line along the width of a ski than along the length?

    I.e. a potential mount has 2 holes mostly in between (and a smidgen in front of) 2 existing holes.

    My hunch is that it's worse but would like to hear from others.

    Ski is 115 under foot so there's a decent amount of relatively stiff under foot core there, but no metal.
    Probably worse for them to have them be in line along the width. My rationale - skis bend a lot more along the length than along with width. It's like you're milling out a pocket to save weight. If you wanted the ski to maintain longitudinal stiffness, you'd mill the pocket along the length. If you wanted it to maintain torsional stiffness, you'd mill the pocket edge to edge. Line blades use this concept - they have metal in the ski that goes edge to edge so it doesn't rotate like a noodle, but the metal has breaks in it along the length so you don't have to be a world cup racer to bend it.

    That said, it's gonna be under the binding so you probably have nothing to worry about.

  14. #5489
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
    Posts
    622
    I'd second that line of thought. Multiple holes along the width bring up the image of a perforated piece of cardboard. Spooky.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  15. #5490
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    Yeah that's what I was thinking.

    I have a second binding option that's a little different in placement I think I'll go with.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  16. #5491
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    I think you are cutting more strands of wood when you put more holes in a row across a ski so its more likely to break the ski than if the holes are in a row length wise,

    I seen a ski break where buddy put an extra set of holes across a ski to put binding wedges underneath so the new set of holes were right next to the old set, instead of just pulling out the ski broke in half at the binding, It was way back in the day so a 67mm waisted foam core kniessel 210 slalom ski, buddy was a 280lb crazy guy bashing moguls
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #5492
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    362
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    so you did it and had sucess ^^ great , if you had the slow-set kicking around the fix costs nothing,

    I know others ( LC for one) have used it sucessfuly

    I think when i suggest it people don't understand/ can't see it working
    I've used this trick a few times on spinners and it works great. I didn't have fiberglass cloth, but shredded up fiberglass insulation worked like a charm.

  18. #5493
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129 View Post
    Threw a cast setup on my downs. Super stoked on this setup.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sunofagun! I just CAST-ed my CD 114s yesterday.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  19. #5494
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
    Posts
    622
    Anyone know where I can order some Tyrolia Attack heelpiece screws? I've previously ordered replacement screws from Tognar, but I realized that Attacks use Pan head screwheads vs the flat, countersunk screw heads that Tognar offers.

    Name:  firefox_2022-03-02_19-11-02.png
Views: 368
Size:  19.7 KB

  20. #5495
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,866
    Slidewright has Pan head screws, plus there is a TGR discount cause he's a Mag!

  21. #5496
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
    Posts
    622
    I saw that after I posted, and think filing them to the correct length would work out. Happy to support em too - I've used the ski centering template countless times. Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  22. #5497
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    185
    question about mounting around existing holes.
    switching from shifts to STH2s for the same BSL.

    is it kosher to mount the toes for the proper BSL and then just shift the heel forward 1cm to avoid the shift heel mounts?
    that should keep me within the adjustment range with 5mm to spare.

  23. #5498
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by sweatypowderpig View Post
    question about mounting around existing holes.
    switching from shifts to STH2s for the same BSL.

    is it kosher to mount the toes for the proper BSL and then just shift the heel forward 1cm to avoid the shift heel mounts?
    that should keep me within the adjustment range with 5mm to spare.
    I would cuz i know I wouldn't be able to tell the differerence 1cm makes

    i remounted a toe 1 cm different than the other ski cuz of a pullout so a 1cm mismatch between skis and buddy couldn't tell the difference
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #5499
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    2,282
    yes

  25. #5500
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Grandma's Basement
    Posts
    1,192
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    What should I look for to get a "stronger" screw for Quiver killer inserts? The ones I am using start to round out after a use or two with just general tightening. Maybe I am doing something wrong but don't have this problem with other things. Also open to allen or something instead of the posidrive/philips.

    Mentioned this a few places on this forum already but... buy blue zinc coated hardware...there is no point in having a stainless steel interface on an already stainless threaded insert.

    Personally I try to shoot for T25 drive fasteners as they're much less likely to strip out. Not sure why BF or QK havent gotten on this wagon thus far.

    For purchasing - McNugget is the way to go, but its pricy, you could also just find similar screws on Amazon.
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •