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  1. #2876
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    836
    Quote Originally Posted by thechad View Post
    Head Kore 93->Attck 13 pre GW. I'd like to make these my travel skis and install Binding freedom Inserts. Does the Head Kore have enough core material to install the inserts?
    Yep. I installed inserts in to quite a few Kore's without issue.

  2. #2877
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    Yep. I installed inserts in to quite a few Kore's without issue.
    ->Thanks as I was worried I'd have to build up the topsheet somehow.

  3. #2878
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,949
    A late-July mount last night, in my Mammoth storage unit, just a few days before Mammoth closing weekend.

    194 Devastators that I got from user=rip in Telluride. I unmounted STH2 bindings from a 195 RMU North Shore, and mounted them onto these Devastators.
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    .
    - TRADE your heavy BILLYGOATS or PROTESTS for my lightweight versions at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  4. #2879
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The 8th best place in the LBP
    Posts
    2,739
    Seen in a Vail hotel room...looks like part of a patent application.


  5. #2880
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    28
    Mounted these up last night with some G-Flex 650... great time to snag 75mm gear.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #2881
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    16
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Drilled 2 pr for inserts. Next pair will look sweet. Tapping the plexiglass made the job easier. Next time I'll get access to a drill preas and buy the right bit.

  7. #2882
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    285
    Have had these on the back burner since last fall, as their 16/17 predecessors still did fine last winter. With the Turn around the corner it was about time to get them ready to go. My first choice for frontside and low tide missions.

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  8. #2883
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    281
    Thought this belonged in this thread:
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...Mounting-Bench

    price negotiable.

  9. #2884
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    529
    Fun is about to be had.


  10. #2885
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,105
    Another set of skis ó another set of inserts for the shift.

    Drilled out
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    Testing the fitment
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    Applying a lil gflex to the insert
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    All inserts snugged in place and excess wiped off.
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    Close up
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    Some people let inserts cure with bindings installed to make sure everything lines up. I donít do this and have yet to get burnt after 8-10 sets of inserts installed.



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  11. #2886
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    6,959
    Those are hawt.

  12. #2887
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    529
    Quote Originally Posted by SkiLyft View Post
    Another set of skis ó another set of inserts for the shift.
    Hey, do you hand drill your insert hole, or do you use a guide or a press or some other trick?

    I agree. Those are fhawt.

  13. #2888
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    1,916
    Another year means another pair of skis for thing 1. Kind of jealous over these ones. Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #2889
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,105

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    Hey, do you hand drill your insert hole, or do you use a guide or a press or some other trick?

    I agree. Those are fhawt.
    Hand drill.

    I use a small bit to center punch based off template. Then widen to Fuller F bit (6.5mm) with a bit that has drill bit stop set to 9.5mm depth. BF sells a drill bit but I donít like it as I found it easier to drill past the 9.5mm depth. The fuller stop makes this impossible.

    Here are some links

    Drill Bit Stop
    LETTER `F' (.257) DRILL STOP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1LPRM..._L9.MDb799YHZR

    F Drill Bit and 5/16 - 18 tap
    Vermont American 21668 Size 5/16 x 18 NC Tap Letter F Drill Bit Combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFJCDO..._dcaNDbB42X9Z8

    Bottom has a tap included!

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  15. #2890
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,166
    Tested out a few different ways to find ski center the past week and I think I found a winner for now (digital calipers would make this easy but I donít have those). Quick Grip bar clamp around the edges, then measure with a straight edge.

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  16. #2891
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,233
    I had one of those stops come lose mid still and I drilled right through the ski 🤨 Went back to the BF bit then.


    Ok trying a new mount and am gonna post questions as I go because itís 100% free hand, no template. I have a pair of ravens drilled for Tectons and will be installing Xenics. Heels match. So plan is to install heels, snap binding toe onto boot, snug the boot onto the prongs, move heel forward or backward until toes donít conflict with existing holes, and mark on the ski.

    Also for sanity check: since no forward pressure on touring heels, I just want that sliver of light between the boot and the heel binding.

    Somehow this all feels weirder with no template and installing with the heel already done. I suppose it is.

    Any better ideas?


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  17. #2892
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,749
    I've always inserted the drill bit so only the 9.5 or desired depth was exposed. Worst case is it slips but that just results in a shallow hole and is salvageable.

    Getting ready to drill a bunch o skis.

  18. #2893
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,020
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    I had one of those stops come lose mid still and I drilled right through the ski �� Went back to the BF bit then.


    Ok trying a new mount and am gonna post questions as I go because it’s 100% free hand, no template. I have a pair of ravens drilled for Tectons and will be installing Xenics. Heels match. So plan is to install heels, snap binding toe onto boot, snug the boot onto the prongs, move heel forward or backward until toes don’t conflict with existing holes, and mark on the ski.

    Also for sanity check: since no forward pressure on touring heels, I just want that sliver of light between the boot and the heel binding.

    Somehow this all feels weirder with no template and installing with the heel already done. I suppose it is.

    Any better ideas?


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    Fuck if you do that ^^ the universe will likely consume itself !

    But in the event it doesnt, IME drill collars will slip SO instead I drill a hole thru a wine bottle cork, I slip the drill in the chuck to leave as much drill bit showing as I need, all that can happen is the drill can loosen so I don't drill deep enough

    I never use jigs or those flacid paper templates, SO what is important is ski boot center in relation to the ski center mark SO find it on the boot, mark with a piece of tape or a sharpie mark, put the boot center mark at ski center, use a T-square on the ski top to line up the boot mark cuz its hard to just eyeball, click the toe piece onto the boot, line up BC / ski center to see where you are at

    So at this point if you got existing binding holes you wana use and the marks are within 1 cm, I would just do it cuz you won't feel 1 cm unless you are a princess, if it IS further than 1cm you got enough room to drill another hole

    figure out where the toe will go in relation to the heelpice holes you are using, take into account whatever gap the binding needs (I am unsure what those bindings you mention used ? ) mark where your toe piece will go

    now drill one hole for the toe piece, mount the toe piece, click the boot in, let the binding move where it wants, mark the other holes, this will make sure the boot drops dead center into the pins and Bob's yer uncle eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #2894
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    Tested out a few different ways to find ski center the past week and I think I found a winner for now (digital calipers would make this easy but I donít have those). Quick Grip bar clamp around the edges, then measure with a straight edge.
    Great idea w/ the clamp, thanks. Iíve got calipers but its always tough (esp. w/ semi-cap skis) to get a solid reference point for the edges. Cant believe I never thought of throwing a clamp on them...

  20. #2895
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,233
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Fuck if you do...
    now drill one hole for the toe piece, mount the toe piece, click the boot in, let the binding move where it wants, mark the other holes, this will make sure the boot drops dead center into the pins and Bob's yer uncle eh

    The one hole makes sense. Iíve never done that before. I see how thatíll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh


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  21. #2896
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. Iíve never done that before. I see how thatíll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh


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    That was the standard procedure with the old 5 hole dynafit toes.

  22. #2897
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,003
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh

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    • Mark & mount the heel.
    • Mark and drill one toe hole (one of the two closest to the heel piece).
    • Temporarily install the toe with one screw and click the boot in place. The mounted boot perfectly orients the toe piece.
    • Mark/centerpunch one of the two front toe holes.
    • Remove the toe, drill the 2nd hole & remount.
    • Repeat for the other undrilled front hole (serves as a double-check that you got hole #2 right).
    • Mark & drill the final hole.


    Theoretically, you could mark the 2 front holes at the same time, but you might as well them one at a time, 'coz no matter how accurate you are with your punch, you'll be off by 1/2mm.

    Good thing about Fritschis - counterbored toe holes instead of countersunk ... the boot finagling works much better as a result. Enjoy your Xenics

    If you're at all uncomfortable not having a template, you can use the Xenic toepiece to trace one out. Then, locate where the front of the boot is relative to the screw holes. I only mention this (front of boot) so you don't use the pin line. If trace out a template, I'd use it for locating only one hole (following xxx-er's method).

    My templates are "old school", in the sense that I cut a window out for where the front of the boot toe is (instead of today's common practice of mimicking a jig & working off of boot center).

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  23. #2898
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,020
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?]
    typicaly some fucking dentist will ask for the aforementioned (flacid ) template, drill all the holes and find something is off

    BUT if you mount the heel piece dead center it is mutherfucking dead center,

    then mounting the toe piece by ONE screw allows the toe piece to rotate VERY slightly around that screw/pivot to find its happy place BEFORE you drill the second screw which will fix the binding where ever you drilled screw #2

    SO if you got the boot clamped down in the binding the toe piece has got to be in the exact right spot to put the heel piece at dead center on the pins

    as Dee Hub points out it was standard on the 5 hole verts maybe using the center screw BUT even with one screw being off to the side on a 4 hole Rad toe piece the amount the binding will shift is actualy VERY VERY small

    NOT enough to look noticeably cockeyed at the toepiece but at the heel of the boot enough to thro off the alignment of the boot into the pins

    A side benefit is that if you are drilling as you go maybe with a pilot holes you got a chance to fix a minor layout fuckup ... before you fuck everything up

    BTW this procedure also works for frame bindings so I have used the same method to mount an FR+

    also works to get a tele boot heel sitting in the middle of the ski
    Last edited by XXX-er; 10-13-2019 at 09:20 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #2899
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    3,760
    Homebrewd the dentist using templates to mount up some community EP pros. Such a fun ski when fucking around.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  25. #2900
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    whitefish
    Posts
    991
    anyone have a template for the Plum Yak? that way i can mount my own fucking skis

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