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11-25-2011, 12:54 AM #1
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
That is all.
Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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11-25-2011, 10:24 AM #2Registered User
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- Aug 2008
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- Central VT
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....or quit posting threads when some shop fucks them up.
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11-25-2011, 11:04 AM #3
More importantly, don't post threads about fucking up your own mount.
I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...iscariot
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11-25-2011, 11:05 AM #4
Seriously, paying someone to mount skis is like paying someone to change the windshield wipers on your vehicle.
(And no, you don't need a jig, a drill press and a shop table to do a good mount.)
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11-25-2011, 11:38 AM #5
"And no, you don't need a jig, a drill press and a shop table to do a good mount." - Eldo
I totally agree, but those things do make it easier/more enjoyable if you know someone who does and can trade a 6-pack to do it with their stuff. (The jig is probably the least important IMHO). I know I've done my share of skis with a cordless drill and kitchen table, but I do it in my home machine shop if I have the option!
I agree with the OP - mount your own skis! I have 2 sets that I got used that a shop mounted incorrectly (each one has the bindings mounted differently 1-2cm fore/aft than the other ski... what were those guys smoking).
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11-25-2011, 02:17 PM #6
my last 6 pair I have mounted, the templates on TGR made it super easy just did it with a hand drill, used the proper bit and taped around the bit so as not to drill too deep. Mounts have been solid as I go 245lbs with gear and am pretty hard on the EC Icebumps. Once my local shop started upcharging ($75/mount) if you did not buy from them, I stopped using them 6 x$75 = $450 saved so far. getting ready to mount up the BG's this week... Now we just need some snow on The EC
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11-25-2011, 03:12 PM #7
$75 bucks for a MOUNT? We charge $25 bucks and you get a quick hand wax and scrape too...I'll agree as well that the TGR Paper Templates are great....testing out the Jester right now.
First Chair.....Last Call.....
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11-25-2011, 04:29 PM #8
pault- post to the thread how the jester template worked - still waiting for someone to verify it (although I'm 95% sure its right).
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11-25-2011, 04:41 PM #9
Or, mount your own skis if you have to a permit to use a tape measure, drill, and screwdriver. This accounts for far less than 50% of the skiers I know.
FWIW, I do mount my own bindings. It's really not that hard if you have half a brain (or don't over indulge in drugs and/or booze).
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11-27-2011, 10:40 PM #10
Used it to mont two different pairs of Jesters. Tested it out on the bench...twice. Spacing and alignment of the holes seemed fine. I would say it is legit. I had zero issues.
First Chair.....Last Call.....
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11-28-2011, 12:49 PM #11Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Central VT
- Posts
- 4,834
Mounting my own skis from jondrums' paper templates thread have saved me hundred of dollars.
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11-28-2011, 01:23 PM #12
x 1,000. I always said, "If someone is going to fuck up my skis, I want it to be me." First pair of skis I mounted last year, I drilled though the ski. Threw down for a appropriate bit, and the next four pairs went smoothly.
The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?We heard you in our twilight caves, one hundred fathom deep below, for notes of joy can pierce the waves, that drown each sound of war and woe.
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11-28-2011, 01:29 PM #13
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11-28-2011, 01:35 PM #14
Try this ski center template:
(I'll be posting the holes later......you can order them any size.)Last edited by Alpinord; 11-25-2015 at 06:27 AM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
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11-28-2011, 01:37 PM #15Registered User
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- Denver
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- 99
For center I've always taken a fresh sheet of paper, laid it over the surface. Crease the edges of paper on the outsides of the ski, make the creases nice and sharp. Now fold the paper in half to meet both outside creases and you've found the center line. I always cross check with a tape and it's very close if done precisely.
Mounting skis is ridiculously easy and fun, beats spending the money and trying to find a shop that doesn't want 4 days to get it done...
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11-28-2011, 02:01 PM #16
What size drill bit should I use? I assume the "F" size (6.5mm or .257") bit that came with my Binding Freedom insert mount kit is the correct diameter for the threaded inserts, but is there a universal drill bit diameter for mounting skis?
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11-28-2011, 02:08 PM #17
Damn, that was fast. I like the template as well as the centering ruler idea. I currently just use a blank piece of paper as described by Gobstopper. It works okay -- after creasing the centerline, I slide the paper up and down the ski and mark it. This process is usually pretty close, but I've had some end up way off. (And yes, I always doublecheck). It probably doesn't help that I'm somewhat retarded when it comes to mechanical things.
Thanks everyone.We heard you in our twilight caves, one hundred fathom deep below, for notes of joy can pierce the waves, that drown each sound of war and woe.
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11-28-2011, 02:08 PM #18
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11-28-2011, 02:08 PM #19
Some think the slightly smaller 1/4" bit works well for BF & QK inserts.
For alpine binding screws:
* The general rule on drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
* By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions.
* The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
* Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
* The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-28-2011, 02:45 PM #20
Mounted my first set of skis in the back of the hardware store I worked at in highschool. There was a drill press but I just used a hand drill with masking tape wrapped around it for a depth gauge. No template just used the mounting bracket to mark holes. Worked fine and is still holding strong though they don't get used much anymore. There are better ways to go about this but the point is that a little common sense and patience can yield good results.
$75 bucks for a MOUNT? We charge $25 bucks and you get a quick hand wax and scrape tooLast edited by Wired2theT; 11-28-2011 at 08:55 PM.
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11-28-2011, 02:48 PM #21
Thanks a lot Alpinord and Mofro
Does G1 indicate a drill bit size? That is the only term on my Rocker2s that I can see as a possibility.
Also, in the absence a of a drill press, do you think this tool
http://www.slidewright.com/svst-cust...j.html?cat=132
would be a good idea? Is there any way that the guide bit in the center of the tool can be swapped out so that the diameter can be changed?
I am looking to acquire a kit of tools that will help me take care of my own skis, so any suggestions on indispensable equipment would be welcome.Last edited by shasti; 11-28-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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11-28-2011, 03:30 PM #22
No drill press is needed for mounting ski bindings.
Leave No Turn Unstoned!
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11-28-2011, 03:33 PM #23
The SVST jig is designed to fit step drills and 5/16" taps and is sweet. The guide is custom and not interchangeable. It was designed to work for typical alpine stepped drill bits or their 5/16"x1/4" stepped drill that will work for Binding Freedom or Quiver Killer inserts or snowboard heli-coils. Jondrum's Binding Freedom drill and tap guide block will work for F-bits (and loosely for 1/4" bits) and 5/16" taps and loosely for stepped drills (the SVST jig is tighter). How critical this is as a tool? Depends on your tolerance preferences and skills/confidence. For alpine screws where a little out of plumb is OK, not as much as for inserts where alignment and tolerances are more critical.
Not sure what the G1 signifies.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-28-2011, 10:24 PM #24
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11-28-2011, 10:31 PM #25
Folding paper and marking only two points?
Next candidate for "I fucked a mount" thread.
/previous creator of "I fucked a mount thread, but not like that"
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