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  1. #5226
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    687
    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    Pulling my old R:EX out of storage for hard pack days ahead. My boots have changed, so I adjust. But, I can't find the forward pressure indicator on these. Who has the knowledge?

    Also, will I die with these binders?

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Going off my memory here...There should be two screws on the rear of the heel piece. One on top for DIN and one on the bottom for forward pressure. Forward pressure is correct when the bottom screw sits flush with the heel piece housing. It can be a bit finicky so adjust accordingly and check a few times by clicking your boots in and out until it is consistently flush w/ the housing.

  2. #5227
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Chair 6 View Post
    Going off my memory here...There should be two screws on the rear of the heel piece. One on top for DIN and one on the bottom for forward pressure. Forward pressure is correct when the bottom screw sits flush with the heel piece housing. It can be a bit finicky so adjust accordingly and check a few times by clicking your boots in and out until it is consistently flush w/ the housing.
    that makes sense and seems to work. I played with backing it way out/in further then expected and noted the differences. Thanks!

  3. #5228
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Lapping the pow with the GSA in the PNW
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    5,161
    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    Also, will I die with these binders?

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    I have a full bankart repaired shoulder from those bindings. I think a full 13 release value is equip to like a 5 on any other brand. Good luck!!
    In constant pursuit of the perfect slarve...

  4. #5229
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,853

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Tried hand tapping vs drill tapping (on a bud’s daughter’s skis). Drill tapping will now be my preferred method. It was super easy to control:

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    Along with a couple beers, a couple more ‘ tools’ of note:

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    I’m also wondering the downsides of using a double step/Armada bit as your ‘go to’ drill bit? 3.5mm for the core and 4.1 for the top sheet, coupled with tapping. The 9.5mm depth would be an issue for some ski thicknesses.

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    Sent via iPhone
    Slidewright.com
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  5. #5230
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
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    2,200
    Finally….Moment Deathwish

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  6. #5231
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Somewhere else
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    Alpinlord...

    Glad to hear your take on tapping with a drill... might practice that on some old junker skis.

    But how does drilling and tapping with 1 bit work? A regular drill bit clears the chips and I don't know how a tap could do that.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  7. #5232
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Encinitas CA
    Posts
    274

    Deathwish 104 with Sth2’s I did for a friend today.

    Template on transparency film, standards tools. I like the gator guide more and more instead of dragging out the drill press.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #5233
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
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    3,853

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Alpinlord...

    Glad to hear your take on tapping with a drill... might practice that on some old junker skis.

    But how does drilling and tapping with 1 bit work? A regular drill bit clears the chips and I don't know how a tap could do that.
    The drill bit is a double step: 3.5mm to 4.1mm. The thread cutter/alpine tap is a separate bit. Also, vacuumed in between drilling and tapping.

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    I was kicking around grinding the tip down a little to reduce depth, but it feels easy enough control. You could also add a stop.

    Sent via iPhone
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    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-19-2021 at 05:01 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  9. #5234
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
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    5,601
    cent help myself.. issues with fks forward pressure seem all too common.

    Solly FTW.

  10. #5235
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    The drill bit is a double step: 3.5mm to 4.1mm. The thread cutter/alpine tap is a separate bit. Also, vacuumed in between drilling and tapping.

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    I was kicking around grinding the tip down a little to reduce depth, but it feels easy enough control. You could also add a stop.

    Sent via iPhone
    Slidewright.com
    Ahhh... I see... it's the tap that does the 4.1 at the end.... gotcha.

    Thanks for clarification.

    I think I'd prefer to do separate steps. I.e. I'll drill 4.1, maybe do a quick chamfer, then tap.

    I never bottom out the tap when I drill wood core skis with titanal... the point is really just to get a few mm down to avoid the volcanoe and seems like not worth the risk to tap to the bottom and maybe strip the threads. Which isn't even the full bottom on the AB tap.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  11. #5236
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    Oct 2003
    Location
    Lapping the pow with the GSA in the PNW
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    5,161
    Are people not concerned about breaking the tap anymore? I never have, but some of my shop buddies had before. Seems like the “drill-to-tap” method would have that risk of breakage.
    In constant pursuit of the perfect slarve...

  12. #5237
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit Man View Post
    Are people not concerned about breaking the tap anymore? I never have, but some of my shop buddies had before. Seems like the “drill-to-tap” method would have that risk of breakage.
    I would think you would strip the threads in the ski before you broke the tap... but I haven't done either so maybe I'm wrong.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  13. #5238
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,206
    I helped/taught my buddy how to remount his own skis today. In the course of mounting them, we noticed that the shop that mounted the last pair of bindings had one ski mounted an entire centimeter forward of the other ski. Yep, thread title rings true yet again.

  14. #5239
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    13,234
    i work in a shop have for a couple decades
    and well if ya think i dont see a lot of no fucking way any form of professional tools or level of experiance dyi stuffs youre foolin yourself
    and anybody can or outta be able to mount a ski or 2 an hour and
    its the can you do 8 an hour for 10+ hours for 7 days that matters in that setting
    and no
    not a lot of techs can
    has been my real world experiences
    and what does it say that your bro never noticed?
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  15. #5240
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    17,747
    Quote Originally Posted by JayPowHound View Post
    cent help myself.. issues with fks forward pressure seem all too common.

    Solly FTW.
    I'm no Pivot simp, but you're a 1x/season mounter type dude just do a 2x4 mount first if you're not sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by zartagen View Post
    I helped/taught my buddy how to remount his own skis today. In the course of mounting them, we noticed that the shop that mounted the last pair of bindings had one ski mounted an entire centimeter forward of the other ski. Yep, thread title rings true yet again.
    This might take off in a sort of asymmetric sidecut way. If so, we'll need to credit the shop.

    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    i work in a shop have for a couple decades
    and well if ya think i dont see a lot of no fucking way any form of professional tools or level of experiance dyi stuffs youre foolin yourself
    and anybody can or outta be able to mount a ski or 2 an hour and
    its the can you do 8 an hour for 10+ hours for 7 days that matters in that setting
    and no
    not a lot of techs can
    has been my real world experiences
    and what does it say that your bro never noticed?
    For the record, I need to be stone cold sober to do 1 set a day, so honestly I'm always impressed that you can do 8/hr high as a kite.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  16. #5241
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    I had to remount a pulled out toe piece 1 cm back to get into good wood,

    buddy said no don't bother moving that other toe piece,

    sez he can't tell the difference

    and here we got dentists worrying about how 1/2 a mm will feel

    if you smoke enough kush all the time stoned WILL be the normal

    Can he do it straight is the big question ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #5242
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,063
    Well.
    There's always Toluol!

  18. #5243
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    722
    Hey collective, got a question. Helped out my neighbor Sunday, he's leaving for the holiday and needed a rush job done on two pair of Mantras. Got them mounted but I didn't have any epoxy on hand for the screws so they went in dry. Figured he'd be good for a week, but I told him to come back after the new year and we'd back them out, epoxy the holes and remount them. After sleeping on it, I'm not convinced backing them out, epoxying and remounting in the same holes is the best course of action.

    So what say you maggots: Is it worse to mount screws without epoxy in a wood/metal core ski and leave it like that, or worse to reuse screw holes in a wood/metal core and epoxy them in to seal it up? Is this a 'better to run or walk in the rain' discussion?

    P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  19. #5244
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Well.
    There's always Toluol!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WAwuSK36Gw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #5245
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Not DJSapp View Post
    Hey collective, got a question. Helped out my neighbor Sunday, he's leaving for the holiday and needed a rush job done on two pair of Mantras. Got them mounted but I didn't have any epoxy on hand for the screws so they went in dry. Figured he'd be good for a week, but I told him to come back after the new year and we'd back them out, epoxy the holes and remount them. After sleeping on it, I'm not convinced backing them out, epoxying and remounting in the same holes is the best course of action.

    So what say you maggots: Is it worse to mount screws without epoxy in a wood/metal core ski and leave it like that, or worse to reuse screw holes in a wood/metal core and epoxy them in to seal it up? Is this a 'better to run or walk in the rain' discussion?

    P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!
    I watched a vid where race room techs were mounting WC skis clearly without using any glue at all

    I would just back the screws out and remount with epoxy when you can

    but don't run with scissors
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #5246
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Walpole NH
    Posts
    10,828

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Epoxy? Come on man.
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    crab in my shoe mouth

  22. #5247
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,234
    Quote Originally Posted by Not DJSapp View Post
    Hey collective, got a question. Helped out my neighbor Sunday, he's leaving for the holiday and needed a rush job done on two pair of Mantras. Got them mounted but I didn't have any epoxy on hand for the screws so they went in dry. Figured he'd be good for a week, but I told him to come back after the new year and we'd back them out, epoxy the holes and remount them. After sleeping on it, I'm not convinced backing them out, epoxying and remounting in the same holes is the best course of action.

    So what say you maggots: Is it worse to mount screws without epoxy in a wood/metal core ski and leave it like that, or worse to reuse screw holes in a wood/metal core and epoxy them in to seal it up? Is this a 'better to run or walk in the rain' discussion?

    P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!
    I think the risk of a rotted core from water damage merits pulling the binding and gluing. If you are careful and don't cross thread when remounting, you're losing very little if any integrity.

    It was proven--by science, science!!!--on new schoolers, so you can be 100% confident in that remount.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  23. #5248
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    if I gently turn the screws in the hole backwards I can feel when a wood screw drop into the original threads and then go forward

    I used to have to do this ^^swapping alpine soles for DIN soles on Garmonts Endorphins, it was wood screws the material was boot plastic but you were still using the same holes over and over, I never cross threaded / stripped any holes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #5249
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,747
    While we're at it on Pivots and new Mantra's--specifically the M6. I was reusing some older Pivot heels on my new M6's and the two (wider) rear holes on the Pivot heel are real close to the mounting plate edge for my boot size (ya know the one they designed for Markers). One of the screws I got a spinner (the first time in years) using the 4.1 bit. On the 2nd ski I used a 3.6 for those rear holes, and just buzzed the the very top of the hole with a 4.1. YMMV.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  25. #5250
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,680
    Bout to mount my kids fucking skis and notice that the recommended bit states it wants a stepped 3.5/4.1 bit. I've got both sizes and would prefer to use what i've got instead of buying another, but will do that if advised. It appears that the prior mount just used a 4.1 as that bit fits in the hole as far as it goes, but doesn't necessarily mean they did it right. Can I just use the 4.1 or should I just get through the topsheet w the 4.1 and then go full depth with the 3.5 (or buy the bit that is recommended)?

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