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12-18-2021, 10:09 AM #5226Registered User
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- Jan 2019
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Going off my memory here...There should be two screws on the rear of the heel piece. One on top for DIN and one on the bottom for forward pressure. Forward pressure is correct when the bottom screw sits flush with the heel piece housing. It can be a bit finicky so adjust accordingly and check a few times by clicking your boots in and out until it is consistently flush w/ the housing.
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12-18-2021, 10:20 AM #5227Registered User
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- Dec 2009
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- 1,684
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12-18-2021, 10:23 AM #5228
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12-18-2021, 05:09 PM #5229
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
Tried hand tapping vs drill tapping (on a bud’s daughter’s skis). Drill tapping will now be my preferred method. It was super easy to control:
Along with a couple beers, a couple more ‘ tools’ of note:
I’m also wondering the downsides of using a double step/Armada bit as your ‘go to’ drill bit? 3.5mm for the core and 4.1 for the top sheet, coupled with tapping. The 9.5mm depth would be an issue for some ski thicknesses.
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Slidewright.comBest regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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12-18-2021, 06:02 PM #5230
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12-19-2021, 01:59 PM #5231
Alpinlord...
Glad to hear your take on tapping with a drill... might practice that on some old junker skis.
But how does drilling and tapping with 1 bit work? A regular drill bit clears the chips and I don't know how a tap could do that.Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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12-19-2021, 03:56 PM #5232Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2017
- Location
- Encinitas CA
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- 274
Deathwish 104 with Sth2’s I did for a friend today.
Template on transparency film, standards tools. I like the gator guide more and more instead of dragging out the drill press.
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12-19-2021, 04:28 PM #5233
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
The drill bit is a double step: 3.5mm to 4.1mm. The thread cutter/alpine tap is a separate bit. Also, vacuumed in between drilling and tapping.
I was kicking around grinding the tip down a little to reduce depth, but it feels easy enough control. You could also add a stop.
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Slidewright.comLast edited by Alpinord; 12-19-2021 at 05:01 PM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-19-2021, 04:40 PM #5234
cent help myself.. issues with fks forward pressure seem all too common.
Solly FTW.
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12-19-2021, 05:04 PM #5235
Ahhh... I see... it's the tap that does the 4.1 at the end.... gotcha.
Thanks for clarification.
I think I'd prefer to do separate steps. I.e. I'll drill 4.1, maybe do a quick chamfer, then tap.
I never bottom out the tap when I drill wood core skis with titanal... the point is really just to get a few mm down to avoid the volcanoe and seems like not worth the risk to tap to the bottom and maybe strip the threads. Which isn't even the full bottom on the AB tap.Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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12-19-2021, 05:30 PM #5236
Are people not concerned about breaking the tap anymore? I never have, but some of my shop buddies had before. Seems like the “drill-to-tap” method would have that risk of breakage.
In constant pursuit of the perfect slarve...
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12-19-2021, 07:34 PM #5237
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12-19-2021, 10:20 PM #5238
I helped/taught my buddy how to remount his own skis today. In the course of mounting them, we noticed that the shop that mounted the last pair of bindings had one ski mounted an entire centimeter forward of the other ski. Yep, thread title rings true yet again.
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12-20-2021, 06:20 AM #5239
i work in a shop have for a couple decades
and well if ya think i dont see a lot of no fucking way any form of professional tools or level of experiance dyi stuffs youre foolin yourself
and anybody can or outta be able to mount a ski or 2 an hour and
its the can you do 8 an hour for 10+ hours for 7 days that matters in that setting
and no
not a lot of techs can
has been my real world experiences
and what does it say that your bro never noticed?"When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
"I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
"THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
"I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno
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12-20-2021, 09:05 AM #5240
I'm no Pivot simp, but you're a 1x/season mounter type dude just do a 2x4 mount first if you're not sure.
This might take off in a sort of asymmetric sidecut way. If so, we'll need to credit the shop.
For the record, I need to be stone cold sober to do 1 set a day, so honestly I'm always impressed that you can do 8/hr high as a kite."timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-20-2021, 10:05 AM #5241Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
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- 30,879
I had to remount a pulled out toe piece 1 cm back to get into good wood,
buddy said no don't bother moving that other toe piece,
sez he can't tell the difference
and here we got dentists worrying about how 1/2 a mm will feel
if you smoke enough kush all the time stoned WILL be the normal
Can he do it straight is the big question ?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-20-2021, 10:35 AM #5242
Well.
There's always Toluol!
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12-20-2021, 11:20 AM #5243
Hey collective, got a question. Helped out my neighbor Sunday, he's leaving for the holiday and needed a rush job done on two pair of Mantras. Got them mounted but I didn't have any epoxy on hand for the screws so they went in dry. Figured he'd be good for a week, but I told him to come back after the new year and we'd back them out, epoxy the holes and remount them. After sleeping on it, I'm not convinced backing them out, epoxying and remounting in the same holes is the best course of action.
So what say you maggots: Is it worse to mount screws without epoxy in a wood/metal core ski and leave it like that, or worse to reuse screw holes in a wood/metal core and epoxy them in to seal it up? Is this a 'better to run or walk in the rain' discussion?
P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp
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12-20-2021, 11:30 AM #5244Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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- 30,879
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-20-2021, 11:37 AM #5245Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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- 30,879
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12-20-2021, 11:42 AM #5246
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12-20-2021, 11:46 AM #5247
I think the risk of a rotted core from water damage merits pulling the binding and gluing. If you are careful and don't cross thread when remounting, you're losing very little if any integrity.
It was proven--by science, science!!!--on new schoolers, so you can be 100% confident in that remount.
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12-20-2021, 12:05 PM #5248Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,879
if I gently turn the screws in the hole backwards I can feel when a wood screw drop into the original threads and then go forward
I used to have to do this ^^swapping alpine soles for DIN soles on Garmonts Endorphins, it was wood screws the material was boot plastic but you were still using the same holes over and over, I never cross threaded / stripped any holesLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-20-2021, 02:17 PM #5249
While we're at it on Pivots and new Mantra's--specifically the M6. I was reusing some older Pivot heels on my new M6's and the two (wider) rear holes on the Pivot heel are real close to the mounting plate edge for my boot size (ya know the one they designed for Markers). One of the screws I got a spinner (the first time in years) using the 4.1 bit. On the 2nd ski I used a 3.6 for those rear holes, and just buzzed the the very top of the hole with a 4.1. YMMV.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-20-2021, 08:40 PM #5250
Bout to mount my kids fucking skis and notice that the recommended bit states it wants a stepped 3.5/4.1 bit. I've got both sizes and would prefer to use what i've got instead of buying another, but will do that if advised. It appears that the prior mount just used a 4.1 as that bit fits in the hole as far as it goes, but doesn't necessarily mean they did it right. Can I just use the 4.1 or should I just get through the topsheet w the 4.1 and then go full depth with the 3.5 (or buy the bit that is recommended)?
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