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  1. #3401
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bodenseekreis
    Posts
    923
    Can't imagine finding the ski's center being so hard. Using a paper template, haven't you geezers found that many of them have a centering scale on each end?? Use it!

    Tape the toe and tail piece template together in a straight line for the corresponding bsl, cut a small hole to identify the center mark on skis. Use adhesive tape on template tip and tail end. Start with toe end. Fold template over side of ski, note where the scale folds over the steel edge, repeat on other side until fold on edge match. Tape front end. Move to heel end, repeat folding exercise and tape down. Center punch hole locations through paper template.

    This procedure only requires one single mark on ski, the desired boot center location. Stop making unnecessary tools!

  2. #3402
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,008
    using the wrong template, printing it using wrong scale on printer, taping flacid pieces of paper togetehr, having it all shift ... hopefully YMMV but there is > one way to fuckup skinning that cat
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #3403
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bodenseekreis
    Posts
    923
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    using the wrong template, printing it using wrong scale on printer, taping flacid pieces of paper togetehr, having it all shift ... hopefully YMMV but there is > one way to fuckup skinning that cat
    And having a centerline drawn on the skis would counter what of the above?

  4. #3404
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    352
    Alright I am starting to invest in my new ski mounting setup but am going all in with a complicated setup and have got a few questions.

    I am planning on mounting a new CAST system with a second ski kit for Pivot 18s, on a pair of G3 Carbon Empires, as well as on a pair of Amplid Infrablacks. Both have carbon in 'em so im buying a 4.1x9mm ski binding bit, as well as a 3.6 to just have in the quiver. I then plan on doing quiver killers/binding freedom inserts for the heel pieces. I will purchase a 20 pack of threaded inserts, a tap handle with a binding freedom installation tap, a binding freedom installation drill bit, and a center punch.

    Is there a specific screw that i need to purchase to be compatible with either the CAST system or the Binding Freedom inserts? I know that binding freedom makes specific screws, but will I need to buy more for Pivot 18 heels or no?

    I also plan on buying a good epoxy to lock the inserts in and to plug up some old holes. Hopefully I will have a veteran with me to help for this, but I am hoping to supply all of my own tools.

    Thanks for this insightful thread, just need some more specific advice.

  5. #3405
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,008
    Quote Originally Posted by SoooL View Post
    And having a centerline drawn on the skis would counter what of the above?
    well you are still going to need to figure out ski center however you do it

    so we were talking about mounting with nothing but a t-SQUARE
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #3406
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bodenseekreis
    Posts
    923
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well you are still going to need to figure out ski center however you do it

    so we were talking about mounting with nothing but a t-SQUARE
    My above described method finds the ski center with no tools but the template itself, plus a dot or line on the ski for the chosen boot center. What else was unclear?

    If yer worried about taping the toe and heel template pieces crooked, then use the same ruler or straight edge that you intented to connect the ski center dots to verify the straightness of the connected template.

  7. #3407
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,694
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    tape it anywhere you are marking holes, even if you cover the whole top of the ski a roll of painters tape is like 2$
    You haven't done much painting lately.

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  8. #3408
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,008
    well yeah but we were talking about not needing a template

    In any case you hope/assume the template is right, that the scale is perfect, that it didn't shift, that it is the correct scale/size, cuz you are not gona check any thing cuz you arent using any measuring tools ( or maybe now you are ? ) so just drill all them holes and they will be perfect ... thots and prayers eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #3409
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,008
    Quote Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher View Post
    You haven't done much painting lately.

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk
    yeah just cover the binding area

    I buy it in 6 roll packs hopefuly for anything but painting

    what do you buy it by the foot, are you fucking scottish or something ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #3410
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,694
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yeah just cover the binding area

    I buy it in 6 roll packs hopefuly for anything but painting

    what do you buy it by the foot, are you fucking scottish or something ?
    SCOTCH-IRISH

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  11. #3411
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzey View Post
    Alright I am starting to invest in my new ski mounting setup but am going all in with a complicated setup and have got a few questions.

    I am planning on mounting a new CAST system with a second ski kit for Pivot 18s, on a pair of G3 Carbon Empires, as well as on a pair of Amplid Infrablacks. Both have carbon in 'em so im buying a 4.1x9mm ski binding bit, as well as a 3.6 to just have in the quiver. I then plan on doing quiver killers/binding freedom inserts for the heel pieces. I will purchase a 20 pack of threaded inserts, a tap handle with a binding freedom installation tap, a binding freedom installation drill bit, and a center punch.

    Is there a specific screw that i need to purchase to be compatible with either the CAST system or the Binding Freedom inserts? I know that binding freedom makes specific screws, but will I need to buy more for Pivot 18 heels or no?

    I also plan on buying a good epoxy to lock the inserts in and to plug up some old holes. Hopefully I will have a veteran with me to help for this, but I am hoping to supply all of my own tools.

    Thanks for this insightful thread, just need some more specific advice.
    M5 flat head pozi. And yes, you need those for any binding that will ride the ski. I don't know what length off the top of my head. Buy the ones that are made for the job. I haven't seen those locking ridges on the underside elsewhere.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  12. #3412
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    6,176
    Probably going to mount a FKS+CAST setup in the upcoming weeks w/ a jigarex+plates.

    Anything in particular I should be aware of when mounting this whether it's CAST or FKS related?

    I know FKS has minimal BSL adjustment relative to others which is why I ask. Figure the Jigarex may help avoid any issues but want to double check.

  13. #3413
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Probably going to mount a FKS+CAST setup in the upcoming weeks w/ a jigarex+plates.

    Anything in particular I should be aware of when mounting this whether it's CAST or FKS related?

    I know FKS has minimal BSL adjustment relative to others which is why I ask. Figure the Jigarex may help avoid any issues but want to double check.
    Setting forward pressure on them is a little fiddlier than some other bindings but it's not rocket surgery. The indicator on the heel kind of sucks and is an unreliable gauge, but there are some good guides on how to do it on here, do a search. Other than that it's not really harder than anything else.

  14. #3414
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    6,176
    Yeah, I know how to set the forward pressure, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some inane approach to mounting them due to their relative lack of adjustment.

    Thanks

  15. #3415
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    Quote Originally Posted by pembyguy View Post
    Looks like you were shiyterz. You’ve mounted one to the bench. Double ipa no doubt.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    HUB Abominable Winter Ale. Most excellent and brewed locally. Seemed fitting.

    Quote Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher View Post
    You haven't done much painting lately.

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk
    No kidding. That shit is expensive. I use regular masking tape.

  16. #3416
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    362
    Has anyone mounted G3 FINDr skis? G3 is saying I should use a 3.5 mm bit, but the graphics on their site show a Titanal mounting plate in the ski, leading me to think I should use a 4.1 mm bit.

  17. #3417
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Yeah, I know how to set the forward pressure, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some inane approach to mounting them due to their relative lack of adjustment.

    Thanks
    To 100% make sure it's right: test mount a 2x4, set forward pressure, measure distance between back toe holes to front heel holes, confirm where you are in the arm adjustment and adjust heel placement if necessary to get back into the middle of the adjustment range.

  18. #3418
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    To 100% make sure it's right: test mount a 2x4, set forward pressure, measure distance between back toe holes to front heel holes, confirm where you are in the arm adjustment and adjust heel placement if necessary to get back into the middle of the adjustment range.
    Or measure off an existing mount if you are using the same boots/bindings and measure twice before you drill.

  19. #3419
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    6,176
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    To 100% make sure it's right: test mount a 2x4, set forward pressure, measure distance between back toe holes to front heel holes, confirm where you are in the arm adjustment and adjust heel placement if necessary to get back into the middle of the adjustment range.
    The plan was to do a 2x4 mount for sure.

    I'll now do this as well.

  20. #3420
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,549
    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Probably going to mount a FKS+CAST setup in the upcoming weeks w/ a jigarex+plates.

    Anything in particular I should be aware of when mounting this whether it's CAST or FKS related?

    I know FKS has minimal BSL adjustment relative to others which is why I ask. Figure the Jigarex may help avoid any issues but want to double check.
    I did pivots with a paper template no problem. First time mounting bindings myself. Just be careful go slowly.
    As stated I did a lumber mount first and that boosted my confidence.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  21. #3421
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    655
    I read up thread that someone was using acetone to degrease inserts prior to epoxying. Would wife’s nail
    polish work—curious as its already on hand. Acetone based, but not sure if the other “stuff” would render it inappropriate for the job.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  22. #3422
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by dgilligan02 View Post
    I read up thread that someone was using acetone to degrease inserts prior to epoxying. Would wife’s nail
    polish work—curious as its already on hand. Acetone based, but not sure if the other “stuff” would render it inappropriate for the job.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should do fine. There's a bunch of other crap in there, but it's mostly acetone.
    Rubbing alcohol would probably do fine too, though it's not as aggressive as the acetone.

  23. #3423
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,019
    I read somewhere that the human eye is good to 2mm in offset. So centering, leveling etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  24. #3424
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,531
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  25. #3425
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    655
    2 of 3 insert jobs completed, thanks much for all the great info in this thread. Dynastar job was on existing holes. Liberty was virgin mount.
    Click image for larger version. 

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