PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[gregorys]

Ok, I'm flush with new cheap demo Warden's and about to give this a shot. For us urban folks without a garage , any recommendations on good sturdy foldable or portable workbenches or tables to mount vises on for this?

Sawhorses work just fine. I never clamp down the skis.

Hand-drill,
If tapping, which I always do (both because I have the tap and also because almost everything I own has lots of metal) I tap with the drill too. [I also run with scissors, so YMMV.]
Flip the ski over, tap out debris.
Whatever glue you have/want. (I always inject epoxy in the hole with a syringe/luer-lock-tip.)
I usually put in the screws 95% of the way down with the drill too.
Final hand tighten all the screws.

This isn't hard, though I have lots of error room, because of the burly skis I'm usually mounting.
Less burly? Just dial down the aggressiveness/force a bit.

If you're at all worried, do a test run on a cheap 2x4 - you'll work out any issues in the test.
You got this.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Sawhorses work just fine. I never clamp down the skis.

Hand-drill,
If tapping, which I always do (both because I have the tap and also because almost everything I own has lots of metal) I tap with the drill too. [I also run with scissors, so YMMV.]
Flip the ski over, tap out debris.
Whatever glue you have/want. (I always inject epoxy in the hole with a syringe/luer-lock-tip.)
I usually put in the screws 95% of the way down with the drill too.
Final hand tighten all the screws.

This isn't hard, though I have lots of error room, because of the burly skis I'm usually mounting.
Less burly? Just dial down the aggressiveness/force a bit.

If you're at all worried, do a test run on a cheap 2x4 - you'll work out any issues in the test.
You got this.

2nd the recommendation to test on 2x4 (or whatever flat piece of wood you have on hand) to verify the template is giving you the proper results.

I also center punch my marks prior to drilling so the bit won’t wander.

[Falcon3]

I break down a cardboard box and put the ski on it on the floor. Then stand on the ski as I’m drilling. No spinners yet!

Definitely center punch, even if it’s just with a Phillips screwdriver (doesn’t take much to depress the fiberglass top sheet enough to get the bit to not wander). And definitely mount on a 2x4 if you’re nervous.

[Fred Pabst]

Stupid mount point question. I have never really referenced mount points to ski center, but that seems to be a trend. Most always just use the recommended line. Is it always a straight pull measure from tip to tail /2, regardless of the skis tip and tail shapes, rise, rocker etc to establish ski center?
Thanks

[skis_the_trees]

Fred,
Yes the ski center is just the length/2 "regardless o fetch skis tip and tail shapes." Some manufacturers like Praxis publish the mount point as referenced from this line (i.e. 9cm).

Also always a good idea to mark and measure your own line, as sometimes the top sheets are inaccurate as to the mount point. I've got a set of Rossis that basically got ruined from mounting based off the manufacturer line, since one is 1cm different than the other ski!

[dschane]

Agreed, and it's a bit annoying if the mfre doesn't have a mark on the sidewall or a measurement from the tip or tail for you to use. If it's just -X cm from the center, I'd measure tip to tail with a flexible measuring tape or a piece of string and I'd compare measurements on the top with what I get on the base to check my stupidity.

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Did a pair of Kendos that I got from poster nutbag. Mounted Tyrolia Aaatack2 ATs. 2 of the toe mount screws lined up perfectly with the clamps he had on there before (Wardens I think?). Sweet karma.

Now I'm working on trying to get Vipecs mounted on the Praxis BCs I bought back from Laps. Lots of holes in those skis. Going to plug the holes with hardwood and epoxy. Any thoughts on overlapping holes? I don't jump off things in the EC backcountry so I'm not too worried about the clamps pulling out. Looking for tips/tricks for keeping the bit from wandering into the old holes (I've had this happen even with center-punching). Thnx in advance for any advice.

[PeachesNCream]

Did a pair of Kendos that I got from poster nutbag. Mounted Tyrolia Aaatack2 ATs. 2 of the toe mount screws lined up perfectly with the clamps he had on there before (Wardens I think?). Sweet karma.

Now I'm working on trying to get Vipecs mounted on the Praxis BCs I bought back from Laps. Lots of holes in those skis. Going to plug the holes with hardwood and epoxy. Any thoughts on overlapping holes? I don't jump off things in the EC backcountry so I'm not too worried about the clamps pulling out. Looking for tips/tricks for keeping the bit from wandering into the old holes (I've had this happen even with center-punching). Thnx in advance for any advice.

I'd predrill with a smaller bit so your bit has something to follow. Just don't drill through the ski.

[dschane]

Did a pair of Kendos that I got from poster nutbag. Mounted Tyrolia Aaatack2 ATs. 2 of the toe mount screws lined up perfectly with the clamps he had on there before (Wardens I think?). Sweet karma.

Now I'm working on trying to get Vipecs mounted on the Praxis BCs I bought back from Laps. Lots of holes in those skis. Going to plug the holes with hardwood and epoxy. Any thoughts on overlapping holes? I don't jump off things in the EC backcountry so I'm not too worried about the clamps pulling out. Looking for tips/tricks for keeping the bit from wandering into the old holes (I've had this happen even with center-punching). Thnx in advance for any advice.

After you center punch, start with a very small bit and work your way up to the 3.6mm bit.

I would rather go with inserts than overlap if the 1/4" hole would envelop the existing one, but otherwise, hardwood plugs and epoxy would be my best suggestion.

[spanky]

I’ve always drilled my holes with a hand drill… both in the shop with a proper jig and at home with paper templates.

I now have a drill press and trying to come up with reasons to use it…

I’m not sure if setting the depth on the drill press will work given the variable thickness of the ski. Although this may be negligible.

I think it might be easier to line up a hand drill with a center punch mark than the drill press.

I think the hand drill is “perpendicular enough”.

What are the drill press benefits?

[XXX-er]

You can wank off about yer drill press on tech talk ?

I think it might be a good thing to be way perpendicular for inserts cuz if the insert is crooked so it the screw ?

but I don't do inserts and i don't have a drill press

[XXX-er]

Lots of holes in those skis. Going to plug the holes with hardwood and epoxy. Any thoughts on overlapping holes? I don't jump off things in the EC backcountry so I'm not too worried about the clamps pulling out. Looking for tips/tricks for keeping the bit from wandering into the old holes (I've had this happen even with center-punching). Thnx in advance for any advice.

I just move the binding a little to miss the plugged holes and I never overlap holes just in case the screw pulls out

I move the binding cuz you will never feel the difference 1cm makes

A couple yars ago I fixed skis for a buddy, instead of fucking with both bindings on the re-mounting of a pulled out Vert toepiece I just mounted it 1cm different from the original mount cuz buddy said not to bother changing everything

SO the pulled out bindings was 1 cm different on purpose and buddy ( good skier) sez he can't tell the difference 1cm makes

a 4 " drywall screw makes a damn fine center punch

[stealurface831]

I’ve always drilled my holes with a hand drill… both in the shop with a proper jig and at home with paper templates.

I now have a drill press and trying to come up with reasons to use it…

I’m not sure if setting the depth on the drill press will work given the variable thickness of the ski. Although this may be negligible.

I think it might be easier to line up a hand drill with a center punch mark than the drill press.

I think the hand drill is “perpendicular enough”.

What are the drill press benefits?

Just here to beat my dick because I own a drill press.

But MNIAW's situation is a perfect example of when a drill press can be super helpful.

To that end, MNIAW, I echo the recommendation of gradually stepping your bits but also advise that you be gradual in your drilling. Drill a few millimeters, feel the bit cut, and bring the bit back out, all while using pressure just heavy enough to get the bit to cut. Repeat this until you get to your depth marker.

It can definitely be done with a hand drill but is much easier with a drill press as you can control the plunge of the bit much more easily.

[~mikey b]

pictures of your dick in the drill press or it didn’t happen

[PB]

I’ve always drilled my holes with a hand drill… both in the shop with a proper jig and at home with paper templates.

I now have a drill press and trying to come up with reasons to use it…

I’m not sure if setting the depth on the drill press will work given the variable thickness of the ski. Although this may be negligible.

I think it might be easier to line up a hand drill with a center punch mark than the drill press.

I think the hand drill is “perpendicular enough”.

What are the drill press benefits?

Hand drilled my mounts for many years, got used to the last screw panic that resulted at least 25% of the time because my "perpendicular enough" ...... wasn't. Last year finally invested in a press ( a small, inexpensive table top) and ..... it was a miracle. I use my jig-a-rex now just as a template to dimple (hammer tap) the top sheet with my regular drill bit (or even just a regular bullet point bit - something with a good point on it).
Remove the jig, line up on press platform, drill in less than half the time and zero stress. Should have got the press 20 years ago.

[spanky]

Hand drilled my mounts for many years, got used to the last screw panic that resulted at least 25% of the time because my "perpendicular enough" ...... wasn't. Last year finally invested in a press ( a small, inexpensive table top) and ..... it was a miracle. I use my jig-a-rex now just as a template to dimple (hammer tap) the top sheet with my regular drill bit (or even just a regular bullet point bit - something with a good point on it).
Remove the jig, line up on press platform, drill in less than half the time and zero stress. Should have got the press 20 years ago.

Thanks for the feedback. I bought a relatively inexpensive tabletop press last year as I’m redoing a deck with new cable railing and needed to drill 20+ 4x4s. I tried doing a few by hand and quickly realized the drill press was well worth it. Now I get to wave my dick on the TRG and use it to mount skis! But Mikey still isn’t going to get any pictures!

[EWG]

I’m redoing a deck with new cable railing and needed to drill 20+ 4x4s.

Been there, done that, only with metal posts on stairs so angled holes.

Anyway, vibes. Good luck.

[djhutch]

Stupid mount point question. I have never really referenced mount points to ski center, but that seems to be a trend. Most always just use the recommended line. Is it always a straight pull measure from tip to tail /2, regardless of the skis tip and tail shapes, rise, rocker etc to establish ski center?
Thanks

Fred,
Yes the ski center is just the length/2 "regardless o fetch skis tip and tail shapes." Some manufacturers like Praxis publish the mount point as referenced from this line (i.e. 9cm).

Also always a good idea to mark and measure your own line, as sometimes the top sheets are inaccurate as to the mount point. I've got a set of Rossis that basically got ruined from mounting based off the manufacturer line, since one is 1cm differe'tnt than the other ski!

Not to get into the weeds (but I will) isn't a straight pull divided by 2 the "chord center." Blister et. al. reference "true center" which I thought was the straight line from tip to tail below the ski on the ground, i.e., push the tip against a wall and measure from the wall to the tail (or a vertical board if you got twin tips). But, truthfully I have never read the specific way to measure this, and Google can tell you, I really have looked.

On most skis, a straight pull and the method I am describing is less than 1 cm apart but on one pair of skis I own it is 2cm different and on wildly rockered skis, it could be more I assume.

Bonus point for the true geeks - please list your fav mount points from true center for a directional ski. In years past, I was -9 to 10 cm, now my fav mounts are -7cm and I think I will move forward in the future.

Obviously this is ski, style, delta, etc. dependent but I find it amusing when people say they always go "+2 from rec line" and have no clue where that line is on the ski compared to true center.

[singlesline]

Ok, I'm flush with new cheap demo Warden's and about to give this a shot. For us urban folks without a garage , any recommendations on good sturdy foldable or portable workbenches or tables to mount vises on for this?

I really liked my Worx Pegasus when I lived in an apartment (and still like it now that I have a garage). Folded up, it lived out of sight underneath my couch...

https://www.worx.com/pegasus-work-ta...rse-wx051.html Every few months I see it posted on Slickdeals for under $100.

Stable, especially if you put some weight on the bottom shelf or back it up against a wall. The built in clamping system works pretty well (and the clamps can be used standalone).

That said, for ski stuff I always just clamped a set of ski vices to the countertop on my kitchen island.

[XXX-er]

Not to get into the weeds (but I will) isn't a straight pull divided by 2 the "chord center." Blister et. al. reference "true center" which I thought was the straight line from tip to tail below the ski on the ground, i.e., push the tip against a wall and measure from the wall to the tail (or a vertical board if you got twin tips). But, truthfully I have never read the specific way to measure this, and Google can tell you, I really have looked.

On most skis, a straight pull and the method I am describing is less than 1 cm apart but on one pair of skis I own it is 2cm different and on wildly rockered skis, it could be more I assume.

Bonus point for the true geeks - please list your fav mount points from true center for a directional ski. In years past, I was -9 to 10 cm, now my fav mounts are -7cm and I think I will move forward in the future.

Obviously this is ski, style, delta, etc. dependent but I find it amusing when people say they always go "+2 from rec line" and have no clue where that line is on the ski compared to true center.

I would see if tail to ski center mark is the same on both skis, I would usually go with what the mfger suggests is ski center unless i read something very much to the contrary

[djhutch]

I would see if tail to ski center mark is the same on both skis, I would usually go with what the mfger suggests is ski center unless i read something very much to the contrary

On which skis does the manufacturer put a ski center mark? I've mounted dozens of pairs and I have never come across a ski center mark.

[XXX-er]

Duno if we are talking about different things but the only ski I've seen without a line or an arrow of some kind on ski top or sidewall to tell you what to line up boot center with was Dynafit and thats cuz they used the inserts for tech bindings

in any case I would measure from tail to make sure those marks are in the same spot

[PB]

On which skis does the manufacturer put a ski center mark? I've mounted dozens of pairs and I have never come across a ski center mark.

Dozens means nothing; what brand of skis? There are undoubtedly some that do not mark their skis, but the vast majority do. NTTAWWT

[Shorty_J]

I would see if tail to ski center mark is the same on both skis, I would usually go with what the mfger suggests is ski center unless i read something very much to the contrary

Going to have to disagree on that one... I've seen the true centre of a ski mis-marked by 2 or 3cm. That's a lot.

[spanky]

Been there, done that, only with metal posts on stairs so angled holes.

Anyway, vibes. Good luck.

Thanks. Most of the posts are drilled and installed. I have to put the railings on and then run the cable… about 1200’ worth. </thread drift>