Page 155 of 274 FirstFirst ... 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 ... LastLast
Results 3,851 to 3,875 of 6831
  1. #3851
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    448
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...
    I’d do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.

  2. #3852
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SE Idaho
    Posts
    2,178
    Quote Originally Posted by YaBoyBlue View Post
    I’d do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.
    Once GG is cured, it's waterproof. Water aids in the activation and curing process, it has nothing to do with somehow reactivating the glue once cured. I definitely would not use wood glue on reused holes if it were me. "Binding glue" is a special kind of wood glue that tends to stay more flexible (even though ski bindings wasn't the original intent I don't think, at least for Roo glue). Much less brittle than Titebond III. In other words "wood glue" is a very generic term.

  3. #3853
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    265
    Don’t know how I reposted.

    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

  4. #3854
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    448
    Even if it was inadvertent that was amazing comedic timing.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  5. #3855
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    155
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-8140.JPG 
Views:	99 
Size:	765.5 KB 
ID:	343467

  6. #3856
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,184
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    If you're worried they won't ski ok, I won't might giving them a test run for ya.

  7. #3857
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    1,052
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-8140.JPG 
Views:	99 
Size:	765.5 KB 
ID:	343467
    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  8. #3858
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by scmartin69 View Post
    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I wish I could tell you. Taking a leap of faith coming from an ill fitting panterra 120. I've never skied a crossover boot before.

  9. #3859
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,359
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?

  10. #3860
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?
    Yes. A fig newton weights about 15.5 grams. I figured 70 of those is about a kilogram/m^2. But that wasn't enough. I may have used 500 fig newtons now that I think of it.

  11. #3861
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    I'm just here for the fig newton stoke

  12. #3862
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SE Idaho
    Posts
    2,178
    Just ski really really slow for the first season. After that you can open it up. It's all about safety, man.

  13. #3863
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    2,285
    I mounted some classics for fun on the WROD's.

    2005 Volkl Explosiv CMH 190cm - (900S DIN=14: metal heel, plastic toe)
    2006 Dynastar Legend Pro 194cm - (DR9/997 DIN=14 metal heel, 957 DIN=17 metal toe)
    2001 Nordica W9.1FF 190cm - (900S DIN=14 metal heel, 997 DIN=12 plastic toe)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	explosiv.jpg 
Views:	125 
Size:	875.7 KB 
ID:	344530
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LP194.jpg 
Views:	130 
Size:	738.7 KB 
ID:	344532
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	W9-1FF.jpg 
Views:	113 
Size:	819.1 KB 
ID:	344531

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  14. #3864
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by butterscotch View Post
    x 1,000. I always said, "If someone is going to fuck up my skis, I want it to be me." First pair of skis I mounted last year, I drilled though the ski. Threw down for a appropriate bit, and the next four pairs went smoothly.

    The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?

    for center line stick a 2ft long piece of tape down middle off ski and do your layout on that

    I use a T-square to measure/mark just wider than center from ski edge, then measure mark the same distance from the other ski edge, split the difference between those 2 marks and that is center, do it at front of tape then do it at rear of tape use a straight edge to connect the marks and thats yer center line


    if you don't have the bit drill a perpendicular hole thru a 2" piece of wood, leave how ever much bit you want sticking out the piece of wood and tighten the drill chuck, it functions as a drill guide but also if the drill bit slips you just don't drill far enough ... a completely idiot proof drill stop/ guide
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #3865
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFkBd3x...d=wmvavo4xf5ub glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.
    Been using GG for years and have never had that happen, the expansion fills voids but it doesn't exert much pressure. About the only danger is using too much and having it flow/foam out of the hole and up into the underside of the binding, which could make it hard to remove a binding like a Marker Royal toe that needs to slide backwards to reveal the front screws. Never had this happen either, but I have had to pry the back of the toe up a bit (after removing the rear screws) to crack the seal so I could slide the toe back.

    No need to wet the hole with water, there's enough moisture in the air to cure the glue even in a dry environment like SoCal. It cures to a clear flexible yellow where it can't expand (in the threaded hole) and a tough, slightly flexible foam where it has room to expand (voids under the binding). Just a little drop inside the top edge of the hole, and a little dab on the screw threads is all it takes.

    It does take a good "crack" with the screwdriver (I use a small crescent wrench on the hex below the screwdriver handle for added torque) to break the GG seal when removing screws, but they come out perfectly clean and rust-free.

    On a metal ski with tapped threads, I treat GG'd holes as if they're inserts and am comfortable remounting a binding unlimited times. Just make sure the screws you use later aren't longer than the ones you used for the first mount.

  16. #3866
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    yeah I think the idea that Gorrila Glue will splode your skis is a horse shit urban myth which I hear often repeated in mount your own skis, I think one person said it and so everyone repeats it

    When I used GG what i did was spit on the ski top and push the spit down in the holes with a handy nail, any time I've used GG there was no problem, i think that glue has long since hardened up in the bottle & now i'm in to slow set

    a funny thing that did happen was I glued pieces of dowel into some old binding holes before the neext mount, the dowel was a bit undersize but I figured it would still take up the extra space and make for a waterproof seal

    in the morning each piece of dowel was neatly spit out on top of the ski when the glue expanded,

    note to self use bigger dowel and IME the BBQ skewers are perfect
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #3867
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Yeah I've used Gorilla Glue a bunch of times with no issues. It'll foam up and expand if there's room for it to, but I don't think it does so with nearly enough force to do anything when contained in the bottom of a hole.

  18. #3868
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    Been using G/Flex for dowels, since those are permanent.

  19. #3869
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SE Idaho
    Posts
    2,178
    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Been using GG for years and have never had that happen, the expansion fills voids but it doesn't exert much pressure. About the only danger is using too much and having it flow/foam out of the hole and up into the underside of the binding, which could make it hard to remove a binding like a Marker Royal toe that needs to slide backwards to reveal the front screws. Never had this happen either, but I have had to pry the back of the toe up a bit (after removing the rear screws) to crack the seal so I could slide the toe back.

    No need to wet the hole with water, there's enough moisture in the air to cure the glue even in a dry environment like SoCal. It cures to a clear flexible yellow where it can't expand (in the threaded hole) and a tough, slightly flexible foam where it has room to expand (voids under the binding). Just a little drop inside the top edge of the hole, and a little dab on the screw threads is all it takes.

    It does take a good "crack" with the screwdriver (I use a small crescent wrench on the hex below the screwdriver handle for added torque) to break the GG seal when removing screws, but they come out perfectly clean and rust-free.

    On a metal ski with tapped threads, I treat GG'd holes as if they're inserts and am comfortable remounting a binding unlimited times. Just make sure the screws you use later aren't longer than the ones you used for the first mount.
    I've seen a thread regarding bases being bumped out when someone used GG but can't recall if it was TGR, maybe Earnyourturns.....

    But maybe it was because screw length was too long, too much glue to escape when driving screw, or something else and they chalked it up to the GG. The stuff does expand like crazy when I've used it for home projects, but that was where it emerged around the screw head.

    I dampen the hole/screw as per GG instructions when I need it to set as strong as possible (eg. anchoring concrete screws), but have done it without water too for other uses that I wasn't as concerned about.

  20. #3870
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    GG and epoxy have a pretty high viscosity, so if you add it to the hole and then drive in the screws with a power driver, you could easily force air or gel into the ski somewhere you don't want it. Use a screwdriver by hand and tighten each screw until you feel some pneumatic/hydraulic resistance, and then go to the next screw. When you come back to each screw that was resisting, the pressure will have relieved past the threads and you can tighten it some more. It can take several laps around the pattern to fully tighten the screws, but this avoids high-pressure injection of glue or trapped air.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 10-24-2020 at 09:15 AM.

  21. #3871
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    any liquid doesn't compress so you could probably do something like that with wood glue or chicken soup
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #3872
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SE Idaho
    Posts
    2,178
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    any liquid doesn't compress so you could probably do something like that with wood glue or chicken soup
    Chicken soup for the win, fuck epoxy!

    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    GG and epoxy have a pretty high viscosity, so if you add it to the hole and then drive in the screws with a power driver, you could easily force the gel into the ski somewhere you don't want it. Use a screwdriver by hand and tighten each screw until you feel some hydraulic resistance, and then go to the next screw. When you come back to each screw that was resisting, the pressure will have relieved past the threads and you can tighten it some more. It can take several laps around the pattern to fully tighten the screws, but this avoids hydraulic injection of glue or trapped air.
    This is the approach I take as well.

  23. #3873
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sikskiyou's
    Posts
    1,549
    I'm looking to mount some Tyrolia Attack 13 DEMO bindings.

    Missing a few screws and can't find a tech doc online that shows the specs for the screws, other than the full screw pack from Tyrolia.

    So I'm trying to determine the correct screw size for the forward mounting holes in the heel piece for 8mm of insertion depth. I measured and my estimate is a 15mm length screw, but am curious if anyone knows for certain? If I install 15mm screws and they should have been 16mm, will my skis explode?

  24. #3874
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    494
    Quote Originally Posted by donetlynx View Post
    I'm looking to mount some Tyrolia Attack 13 DEMO bindings.

    Missing a few screws and can't find a tech doc online that shows the specs for the screws, other than the full screw pack from Tyrolia.

    So I'm trying to determine the correct screw size for the forward mounting holes in the heel piece for 8mm of insertion depth. I measured and my estimate is a 15mm length screw, but am curious if anyone knows for certain? If I install 15mm screws and they should have been 16mm, will my skis explode?

    Couple pair just sold in GS, maybe check with those buyers and have them measure before they mount. But they will not explode.

    My centerline tip is using a clear protractor like these, the transparency helps me figure out where the edge is and not measure off the sidewall or topsheet and the protractor part helps me keep the ruler perpendicular to the ski. Either match the overhang on either side and mark the 3" point or start from the 0 and practice your fractions.

  25. #3875
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,711
    Yeah i dont get the people saying dont use GG. DPS even says to use epoxy or polyurethane glue on their mounting instructions, which is what GG is. I mean if it was gonna ruin a ski a tour 1 DPS would be high on that list.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •