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  1. #3276
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    867
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Its called a Combination Square. They only come with one slider. But you can but them for less than $15, so buy 2 pull the slider off of one and make a double.
    Rad. Thanks yall. Guess Im halfway there!

  2. #3277
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    Rad. Thanks yall. Guess Im halfway there!
    Harbor Freight is your friend for buying two on the cheap if you have one close.

  3. #3278
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    456
    This has probably come up already in this thread, but has anybody made a basic centering jig to mark the center line? Seems like this would work great.

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    To avoid the influence of sidecut, you could just make 2 passes with the jig, flipping the direction...my guess is the 2 lines would be essentially on top of each other.

    (If it isnt obvious how you use the jig, 50 seconds into this video shows an example: https://youtu.be/Mfa9bhjNAAE)

  4. #3279
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    722

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.






  5. #3280
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,837
    Quote Originally Posted by Dshack89 View Post
    This has probably come up already in this thread, but has anybody made a basic centering jig to mark the center line? Seems like this would work great.

    To avoid the influence of sidecut, you could just make 2 passes with the jig, flipping the direction...my guess is the 2 lines would be essentially on top of each other.

    (If it isnt obvious how you use the jig, 50 seconds into this video shows an example: https://youtu.be/Mfa9bhjNAAE)
    Yes. I've been working on this for a while. I'm ironing out a couple design tweaks and CNC issues for production and should have more ready within a week:

    Find your ski center in seconds:

    • Place the SkiScribe diagonally on the top of the ski with the pegs against the edges in front of the binding toe piece.
    • Run the SkiScribe down the edge or make tick marks with a SHARP pencil in the center holder creating a line matching the ski's contour.
    • Rotate the SkiScribe and repeat on the other edge.
    • Repeat behind the binding heel piece.
    • Double check Ski Edge to closest line on each side for a match. Adjust if necessary.
    • Split the difference between the two lines and mark the center in front & rear locations.
    • Draw a centerline with a straight edge.
    • Place binding template or jig on ceter line and Boot Sole Center (BSL)


    The center hole I'm considering is 5/16"/8mm all the way through instead of the 2mm one shown. This is larger than a pencil diameter and wrapping tape around a pencil will remove slop.

    It can also be used to align the tap vertically (especially a Snoli Threadcutter). Since SkiScribe is made out of wood DO NOT use it as a drill guide.

    As an aside, it also works OK as a true bar.

    There are two 'rulers' laser etched into the sides. One is the same as the SlideWright Centering Ruler Sticker. The other is a new ruler to measure from the Ski Edge to the Center. The two options provide unlimited uses, including the following:

    • The Centering Ruler can quickly ballpark ski width and center relative to the ski edges at any given changing width down the ski. This can give quick reference for centerline location.
    • Measure center between two screw holes and their layout
    • Measure screw lengths directly or installed length from top of binding
    • Locate the center of odd shape or linear items up to 140mm/5 1/2"
    • A handy tool for countless uses beyond skis
    Attached Images Attached Images          
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-24-2019 at 07:37 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
    New! SkiScribe Centering Tool

  6. #3281
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    15,998
    Nioce, way to go Terry!
    watch out for snakes

  7. #3282
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9,786
    I like the Lego version.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  8. #3283
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    12,417
    I like both.

  9. #3284
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    1,487
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    Sick. Enjoy

  10. #3285
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    monument
    Posts
    5,551
    Legos are cool.

    I'm mounting my own fucking skis which are already drilled for Jesters.
    I don't want fucking Markers (and I'm fucking cheap and already have STHs and FKSs)
    So STHs are a complete disaster in the toe with every single hole slightly overlapping (and I don't want to go forward or back).
    On to the FKS, which looks pretty good.
    Too good ... in fact so good that it looks like the I can reuse the rear two Jester toe holes.

    Measuring on the mounting templates the FKS's rear two toe holes are 35mm apart while the Jester's are 36mm.
    Placing the actual FKS toe onto the ski the fit looks extremely good.
    I'm going for it, even though I'll likely die.

    PS Mounting a Kastle MX98.
    That's got the Titinal, so 4.1mm drill, yes?
    In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...

  11. #3286
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    155
    Definitely 4.1

  12. #3287
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    2,057
    Quote Originally Posted by pfluffenmeister View Post
    Measuring on the mounting templates the FKS's rear two toe holes are 35mm apart while the Jester's are 36mm.
    Placing the actual FKS toe onto the ski the fit looks extremely good.
    I'm going for it, even though I'll likely die.
    So each hole is only 0.5mm off or less than 1/64th of an inch.
    Yes it will be fine, get both screws started before you crank them down.
    I don't blame you for not wanting Markers on your skis. "FKS since 2003"
    Last edited by Dee Hubbs; 12-24-2019 at 06:15 PM.

  13. #3288
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    monument
    Posts
    5,551
    ^^^ Yep, they fit nicely.

    IIRC I read to mount FKSs for a BSL of 5mm smaller than your boot to get best dildo performance?
    Don't FKS only have +/- 7.5mm?
    In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...

  14. #3289
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    2,057
    -5mm on the look jig. The paper templates are very close, I just round 1mm on both sides, so essentially close the paper template 2mm.

  15. #3290
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,389

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Jester FKS is generally a good match.

    MTN and Vipec/Tecton heels are very close as well.

  16. #3291
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    1,745
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post




    FKNA Lego stoke on Xmas day!!!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  17. #3292
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Vinyl Valley
    Posts
    1,110
    I thought the process was... jig at correct bsl, drill the toe holes, then close the jig at the heels only by 5mm and drill the heels?

    caveat- I've only used the paper template to practice an fks mount, I've never drilled holes and mounted bindings on a pair of skis.
    Last edited by skuff; 12-25-2019 at 06:52 PM.

  18. #3293
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Eug, Or
    Posts
    154
    Dshack89 I made a centering tool like the one you described. Pretty easy with a drill press, digital caliper, and the right drill bits. Was able to get mine with .2mm of center. Personally I find it way faster and more precise than measuring the middle on various points on the ski and connecting the dots (which I did for years).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Would be cool to see something like the slidewright be commercially available. CNC could probably get something dead nuts centered.

  19. #3294
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    everyday sunshine
    Posts
    251

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by prsboogie View Post
    FKNA Lego stoke on Xmas day!!!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Click image for larger version. 

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    X2

    Also, if you put this across the top of the ski you could mark the center bump of the cross LEGO as the center of the ski.

  20. #3295
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    456
    Quote Originally Posted by Samski360 View Post
    Dshack89 I made a centering tool like the one you described. Pretty easy with a drill press, digital caliper, and the right drill bits. Was able to get mine with .2mm of center. Personally I find it way faster and more precise than measuring the middle on various points on the ski and connecting the dots (which I did for years).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Would be cool to see something like the slidewright be commercially available. CNC could probably get something dead nuts centered.
    That's perfect! Thanks for sharing.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using TGR Forums mobile app

  21. #3296
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,837
    Quote Originally Posted by Samski360 View Post
    Dshack89 I made a centering tool like the one you described. Pretty easy with a drill press, digital caliper, and the right drill bits. Was able to get mine with .2mm of center. Personally I find it way faster and more precise than measuring the middle on various points on the ski and connecting the dots (which I did for years).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Would be cool to see something like the slidewright be commercially available. CNC could probably get something dead nuts centered.
    I can get it dead on center with the CNC, but the laser is even better. One variable is the tip location of writing utensil and what it's drawn on; tape, smooth or matte top sheet, etc. A pencil is easy BUT if the sharpener doesn't sharpen the pencil perfectly symmetrical, there will be an inaccuracy. A felt pen or ink pen might bleed and/or create a wider line than a super sharp pencil. A mechanical pencil might be the most consistent.

    Regardless, if everyone gets hung up on over thinking a (+/-) .1mm tolerance, you'll never get there AND then there's the drilling and tapping......

    That's why I am adding the two rulers so you can quickly and accurately double check your marks relative to the edges without dicking around with calipers. I consider the scribed lines as giving me a 'target range' and the edge to center ruler as the final measuring step.



    So, with that in mind, I am in the middle of a run with the center hole at 5/16" to allow for more versatility for the tool to also help with tapping. A mechanical pencil, pen or felt tipped pen can work at 5/16". A pencil will need tape for a tighter fit.

    Go back to the smaller hole or go with the 5/16" hole?



    Or:

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    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
    New! SkiScribe Centering Tool

  22. #3297
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9,786
    Terry,
    A Lego version with a laser line projection would be tits.
    If you added a Lego Batman to the top as an option, I think it would forever settle the argument on which is the best way to find the center of a ski.

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    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  23. #3298
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    847
    I am using bamboo shishkabob skewers and glue to plug holes. I couldn't cut off the excess with a carpet knife so I used a Dremel wheel and sort of banged up the ski. It's old not a big deal. But what's a better way to cut off excess wood after plugging?

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

  24. #3299
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,120
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    I am using bamboo shishkabob skewers and glue to plug holes. I couldn't cut off the excess with a carpet knife so I used a Dremel wheel and sort of banged up the ski. It's old not a big deal. But what's a better way to cut off excess wood after plugging?


    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    A simple pocket planer is awesome

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

  25. #3300
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9,786
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    I am using bamboo shishkabob skewers and glue to plug holes. I couldn't cut off the excess with a carpet knife so I used a Dremel wheel and sort of banged up the ski. It's old not a big deal. But what's a better way to cut off excess wood after plugging?

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Some just use nippers but they tend to crush the dowels and leave a point. For a nice clean cut use a woodworkers pull saw like this. If you put a piece of painters tape on the backside of the saw face, you will take away any chance of marring the ski surface.

    https://www.shelllumber.com/stanley-...-dbl-edge.html
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

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