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  1. #3901
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    534
    I overlapped holes on my rock skis which is basically what you would be doing. I used wood dowels and 2 part epoxy. So far they've been put through ~10 days. I'm 205 without gear and will do 10-15 foot drops, no issues so far.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  2. #3902
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    274
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    Can you find inserts that are just a bit bigger on the OD to cover the existing holes? I feel like Iíve heard of these, it maybe I am miss-remembering
    https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-pack

  3. #3903
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    Just ski really really slow for the first season. After that you can open it up. It's all about safety, man.
    You can't fool me Ski Patrol...

  4. #3904
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by waxoff View Post
    Just for clarification. Did you drill directly with the insert drill bit size or are the faulty holes 3.6/4.1 mm dia?
    I drilled directly with the insert bit size.

    Maybe for my next attempt i should first go smaller diameter and then work up to the insert bit?

    My previous 2 successful insert installations were converting normally drilled skis to inserts.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  5. #3905
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    244
    ^^thatís the issue. The bushing in the drill guide isnít soft. Your bit wandered before it got through the top sheet. SOP for inserts is to drill standard holes first, double check alignment and drill insert-sized holes if everything is bang on.
    Iíd echo otherís thoughts and suggest going forward or back and trying again instead of trying to repair/re-drill your current situation.

  6. #3906
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    437
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra_cement View Post
    I drilled directly with the insert bit size.

    Maybe for my next attempt i should first go smaller diameter and then work up to the insert bit?

    My previous 2 successful insert installations were converting normally drilled skis to inserts.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Yeah, you just have to file that on the learning experience account!

    If you can plug or fill the holes with something firm enough, they might be possible to redrill. Possible starting with something like a 2 mm pilot hole and using a rigid drill press. Then go 4 mm and finally with the insert bit.

    Easiest would however be, as previously mentioned, to shift the binding location.

    If you go the salvage route, I'd suggest trying to reproduce the situation on some scrap skis and attempt to redo them first, before further messing up your skis.

  7. #3907
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,667
    Picked up some mini bent chetlers and it says to use 7.0 x 3.5 bit. Never seen that before...Iíve got the standard 7.5 bit...am I gonna die? Is .5 mm really going to go through the base??


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  8. #3908
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    21,682
    yup ^^ you are unlikely to notice the difference 1cm is going to make, especially if its a powski

    I remounted a Vert toe 1/2 inch back for a buddy and we didnt bother to move the other toe

    it will be interesting to see if he can notice the difference
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #3909
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,034
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Picked up some mini bent chetlers and it says to use 7.0 x 3.5 bit. Never seen that before...I’ve got the standard 7.5 bit...am I gonna die? Is .5 mm really going to go through the base??
    Depends upon the bsl and the length of the mounting pattern of the ski. Simply measure the ski thickness at the mounting locations. You really want 2.5mm more than the drill depth. And check the protusion length of the screws from the underside of the binding, especially if it's not a junior binding.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 10-26-2020 at 02:36 PM.

  10. #3910
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,034
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra_cement View Post
    Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

    Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)
    Yep, you needed to have pilot drilled first, preferably with a proper binding drill for which you could have used the BF guide. Did you centre punch the locations as that would've started the drill on line (although hitting an internal metal layer could still deflect it)?

    What make/model of binding are you installing as there might be enough jiggle room in the mounting holes in the binding, especially if you opened them up slightly?

    Redrilling plugged holes carries the risk of the drill bit wandering back to the old 'centre' (or center) so you need a really rigid set-up (drill press/mill/stubby bits etc) and you need to start with small diameter bits and work up in size slowly, ie in mm increments. And if you have access to a good drill press/mill you could skip all the plugging work and use the larger diameter Quiver Killer 'Rescue' inserts which will completely encapsulate the original dodgy locations. It's going to cost though as you'll need the to buy the Rescue inserts and you'll need to borrow/buy a 25/64" stub bit and a 7/16-20 tap, but it'll be a lot less work.

  11. #3911
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    274
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra_cement View Post
    I drilled directly with the insert bit size.

    Maybe for my next attempt i should first go smaller diameter and then work up to the insert bit?

    My previous 2 successful insert installations were converting normally drilled skis to inserts.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    If Jon's idea of using jiggle room doesn't work, you might be able to salvage by remounting the heel 1cm fore or aft and using a combo of regular inserts and rescue inserts--I'm assuming that you can make 1-2 of the current holes work in both the toes, just make sure the toe is very straight if it's a tech binding. Obviously my idea falls apart if you're mounting a binding that doesn't have 1cm adjustment in either direction.

  12. #3912
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    281

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Picked up some mini bent chetlers and it says to use 7.0 x 3.5 bit. Never seen that before...Iíve got the standard 7.5 bit...am I gonna die? Is .5 mm really going to go through the base??


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Iv never seen a 3,5x7,5. I think you mean. 3,5x9,5. And in that case. Yes. It probably will go through or you will be able to see them. The 7 is the depth of the hole. 3,5 is the diameter. 3,5 is used when there is no metal in the ski. 4,1 is used when there is metal. 9,0 and 9,5 is for adult skis due to a thicker ski and core. 7,0 is for juniors. Hence your mini Chetlers.

    Oh and 7,0 is used for a bunch of shitty foam core stuff too.


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  13. #3913
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,667
    My junior bit is 7.5x3.6


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  14. #3914
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
    Posts
    1,263

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    In my shop (SVST drill bits):

    3.5/7.0 (junior stuff)
    4.1/7.5 (wood cores)
    4.1/9.0 (any metal/higher end product)

    Most skis have the recommended drill bit size printed on ski.....(Just default to that when available...they do sell a 3.5/7.0 on SVST)

  15. #3915
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by caulfield View Post
    If Jon's idea of using jiggle room doesn't work, you might be able to salvage by remounting the heel 1cm fore or aft and using a combo of regular inserts and rescue inserts--I'm assuming that you can make 1-2 of the current holes work in both the toes, just make sure the toe is very straight if it's a tech binding. Obviously my idea falls apart if you're mounting a binding that doesn't have 1cm adjustment in either direction.
    Thanks for everyone's comments. I'm going to try first to plug the holes with oak dowels and 72hr set epoxy, and then try redrilling. But this time starting with small diameter bit and working my way up. My friend has a man-cave shop with a drill press, so going to enlist his services.

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  16. #3916
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    168
    In my experience with this Iíve made a jig / drilling guide out of 3/4Ē baltic birch plywood (or other hard material) on the drill press. Then clamp the plywood to the ski and hand drill (normal bit with wood stop block) regardless of the previous plugged holes. And G Flex with the plugs, not a more brittle epoxy.

  17. #3917
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by ctsmith View Post
    In my experience with this Iíve made a jig / drilling guide out of 3/4Ē baltic birch plywood (or other hard material) on the drill press. Then clamp the plywood to the ski and hand drill (normal bit with wood stop block) regardless of the previous plugged holes. And G Flex with the plugs, not a more brittle epoxy.
    GFlex works better than the 72hr epoxy on the BF website?

    https://www.bindingfreedom.com/epoxy/

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  18. #3918
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,855
    Where are you located?

  19. #3919
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Where are you located?
    Sf bay

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  20. #3920
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    21,682
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra_cement View Post
    GFlex works better than the 72hr epoxy on the BF website?

    https://www.bindingfreedom.com/epoxy/

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    i think either/or is pretty good stuff

    > 5 minute epoxy for holding power - i put some 5 min on the end of a WW paddle just for kicks being exposed to the H20 it got all flacid & fell off fairly quick
    > than JB weld for workability - that shit does not wana go down a drill hole it might be good for filling large voids in the base but then ever one can see you put that ugly shit on your ski after skiing over a rock like some cheese eating school boy, JB weld just screams gaper or maybe 1 step removed
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #3921
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    156
    This is awesome. Got some oak dowels today. Friend has the 5/16-18 die. Going to order the G-Flex. Feeling cautiously optimistic I might be able to recover from my insert installation f-up.

    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    In my opinion, these are the real tools of the trade ó dies. When I plug a hole I use hardwood dowels and a die. I recut the hole w/ a sharp tap, then I inject epoxy into the bottom w/ a syringe (the syringes for dogs are good. Next just screw the wooden plug in. As far as I can tell, it is literally just like new. The pics below are plugged normal and insert holes. I view that ski as brand new for mounting purposes.

    I messed up an insert mount by 2mm last year and chose to plug and mount on top of the dowel. Several DIN12 ejects later, everything is rock solid.

    I also highly recommend G-Flex. Pricey stuff but you get a ton of it actually and it is just unmatched. I also like gorilla glue brand epoxy better than JB weld for some reason.

  22. #3922
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,855
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra_cement View Post
    Sf bay
    Bummer, if you were in L.A. I could probably help you out.

  23. #3923
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    2,097
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimi_Lee View Post
    Next question.

    I might have eff'ed up in thinking I could re-use holes. Tell me what you think...

    Old bindings =marker squire. Rectangular hole pattern with holes spaced 32mm apart x irrelevant distancing.

    New bindings : marker tours. Rectangular hole pattern with holes 36 mm apart x irrelevant...

    So each hole is 1mm off of the existing hole. Is that out of tolerance? Ski cores are fiberglass +metal sandwich.
    I can't make sense of your words. I thought the 2 heel patterns are WAY different, and I thought the 2 toe patterns have same 36mm lateral distance between holes.

    If it's really 32mm vs 36mm, as you say, then that difference is too big for my tastes. I would not even consider that if it's for Shaq, but I guess I might consider it for a tiny kid (although I would likely reject the idea after consideration).

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  24. #3924
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    2,097
    I mounted more classics for more fun on more WROD's.

    2003 Kniessel Flexon Tanker 190cm - (900S DIN=14: metal heel, plastic toe)
    2005 Dynastar Legend Pro 186cm - (900S DIN=14: metal heel, plastic toe)
    2009 Kastle MX108 195cm - (Marker Jester demos)
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    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  25. #3925
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    166
    VI: Thanks for the reply. I already filled the holes and am going to try redrilling. The holes I want to redrill are offset from the old ones by 2 mm. Wish me luck.

    Only for clarification: I am trying to replace marker squire bindings with marker tours. To keep the boot centered, there is a hole conflict between the forward-most holes for the heal plates. Both sets of heal plates have a rectangular hole pattern. The cross-ski distance between these holes are 32 mm for the squires and 36 mm for the tours --> the new holes are 2 mm offset from the old holes. That was too far offset to reuse the existing holes.

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