Page 155 of 168 FirstFirst ... 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 ... LastLast
Results 3,851 to 3,875 of 4178
  1. #3851
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    99
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?

  2. #3852
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    286

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    ^^

    As long as they hold tight and there arenít any spinners I donít worry about it. There isnt a magic number and it depends on a lot of factors like how well the old holes were sealed to keep moisture out.

    Youíll have a pretty good sense when youíre screwing the binding in whether its solid or not


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3853
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,628
    yeah it's not that hard - you'll know
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  4. #3854
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    99
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

  5. #3855
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,628
    I do not like GG (except GG Alin). I do like a two part epoxy. Other people like a good wood glue and that's probably ok too. I know people that use urethane stuff like Seam Grip or Aqua Seal. Hell, you can even buy binding glue.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  6. #3856
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    13,628
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?
    that many
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  7. #3857
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    818
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Guys. I have a question that i am sure is “Mount Your Own Fucking Skis 101” but still need to ask.

    How many times can you remove binding mounting screws and put them back in the same holes before you compromise the integrity of the mount?
    As many times as you can reinstall the screws cleanly without stripping them. Kind of a pat answer but it depends a lot on how careful you are, and a bit how the ski is constructed.

    If you're planning on doing it a lot, do inserts.

  8. #3858
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,965
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say donít use ...
    Whenever I reuse holes I use slow set 24 hour marine epoxy. I used Titebond III glue for several years but had instances of rusty screws, I've since switched to Gorilla Glue construction adhesive for newly drilled holes. Stays flexible and the screws are easily removed. I haven't used it long enough to know how it will do long term, but it's very easy to deal with compared to epoxy.

    One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than wood glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.

  9. #3859
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    252
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say donít use ...
    Iíd do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.

  10. #3860
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,965
    Quote Originally Posted by YaBoyBlue View Post
    I’d do any type of wood glue you have, binding glue is just about the same. Gorilla Glue is water activated so it kinda defeats the purpose of sealing out water.
    Once GG is cured, it's waterproof. Water aids in the activation and curing process, it has nothing to do with somehow reactivating the glue once cured. I definitely would not use wood glue on reused holes if it were me. "Binding glue" is a special kind of wood glue that tends to stay more flexible (even though ski bindings wasn't the original intent I don't think, at least for Roo glue). Much less brittle than Titebond III. In other words "wood glue" is a very generic term.

  11. #3861
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    99
    Don’t know how I reposted.

    Good deal...I have one last question. When resealing the the screws in the holes what do you guys recommend.. I have seen some folks say gorilla glue and I have see folks say don’t use ...

  12. #3862
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    252
    Even if it was inadvertent that was amazing comedic timing.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  13. #3863
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    64
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-8140.JPG 
Views:	84 
Size:	765.5 KB 
ID:	343467

  14. #3864
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,049
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    If you're worried they won't ski ok, I won't might giving them a test run for ya.

  15. #3865
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    341
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-8140.JPG 
Views:	84 
Size:	765.5 KB 
ID:	343467
    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  16. #3866
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by scmartin69 View Post
    Those boots are the XT 140s correct? How's the flex? You ever skied the RX series for comparison?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I wish I could tell you. Taking a leap of faith coming from an ill fitting panterra 120. I've never skied a crossover boot before.

  17. #3867
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,787
    Quote Originally Posted by AZskibum View Post
    Followed the advice in this thread and mounted my own fucking skis. I used about 70 Newtons of force for each screw. When they started spinning I added quickset cement into each hole, then used drywall screws with anchors to get a tight fit. Little bit of drag on the bottom but I think they will ski ok.
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?

  18. #3868
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    You're starting to get the hang of how TGR works. Fig Newtons, right?
    Yes. A fig newton weights about 15.5 grams. I figured 70 of those is about a kilogram/m^2. But that wasn't enough. I may have used 500 fig newtons now that I think of it.

  19. #3869
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    3,396
    I'm just here for the fig newton stoke

  20. #3870
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,965
    Just ski really really slow for the first season. After that you can open it up. It's all about safety, man.

  21. #3871
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    2,097
    I mounted some classics for fun on the WROD's.

    2005 Volkl Explosiv CMH 190cm - (900S DIN=14: metal heel, plastic toe)
    2006 Dynastar Legend Pro 194cm - (DR9/997 DIN=14 metal heel, 957 DIN=17 metal toe)
    2001 Nordica W9.1FF 190cm - (900S DIN=14 metal heel, 997 DIN=12 plastic toe)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	explosiv.jpg 
Views:	109 
Size:	875.7 KB 
ID:	344530
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LP194.jpg 
Views:	112 
Size:	738.7 KB 
ID:	344532
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	W9-1FF.jpg 
Views:	104 
Size:	819.1 KB 
ID:	344531

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  22. #3872
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    21,682
    Quote Originally Posted by butterscotch View Post
    x 1,000. I always said, "If someone is going to fuck up my skis, I want it to be me." First pair of skis I mounted last year, I drilled though the ski. Threw down for a appropriate bit, and the next four pairs went smoothly.

    The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?

    for center line stick a 2ft long piece of tape down middle off ski and do your layout on that

    I use a T-square to measure/mark just wider than center from ski edge, then measure mark the same distance from the other ski edge, split the difference between those 2 marks and that is center, do it at front of tape then do it at rear of tape use a straight edge to connect the marks and thats yer center line


    if you don't have the bit drill a perpendicular hole thru a 2" piece of wood, leave how ever much bit you want sticking out the piece of wood and tighten the drill chuck, it functions as a drill guide but also if the drill bit slips you just don't drill far enough ... a completely idiot proof drill stop/ guide
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #3873
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,855
    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    One of the problems with the Gorilla Glue glue itself that you asked about is that it expands upon curing. If you over apply it there's a chance that it could dimple the base upon expansion. But it is a really strong adhesive, much more so than https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFkBd3x...d=wmvavo4xf5ub glue. A lot of people like it though, just go easy on the application and wet both the hole and the screw with a little bit of water. I just use a damp q-tip. I would be comfortable with that as well as epoxy, but a dab'l do it.
    Been using GG for years and have never had that happen, the expansion fills voids but it doesn't exert much pressure. About the only danger is using too much and having it flow/foam out of the hole and up into the underside of the binding, which could make it hard to remove a binding like a Marker Royal toe that needs to slide backwards to reveal the front screws. Never had this happen either, but I have had to pry the back of the toe up a bit (after removing the rear screws) to crack the seal so I could slide the toe back.

    No need to wet the hole with water, there's enough moisture in the air to cure the glue even in a dry environment like SoCal. It cures to a clear flexible yellow where it can't expand (in the threaded hole) and a tough, slightly flexible foam where it has room to expand (voids under the binding). Just a little drop inside the top edge of the hole, and a little dab on the screw threads is all it takes.

    It does take a good "crack" with the screwdriver (I use a small crescent wrench on the hex below the screwdriver handle for added torque) to break the GG seal when removing screws, but they come out perfectly clean and rust-free.

    On a metal ski with tapped threads, I treat GG'd holes as if they're inserts and am comfortable remounting a binding unlimited times. Just make sure the screws you use later aren't longer than the ones you used for the first mount.

  24. #3874
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    21,682
    yeah I think the idea that Gorrila Glue will splode your skis is a horse shit urban myth which I hear often repeated in mount your own skis, I think one person said it and so everyone repeats it

    When I used GG what i did was spit on the ski top and push the spit down in the holes with a handy nail, any time I've used GG there was no problem, i think that glue has long since hardened up in the bottle & now i'm in to slow set

    a funny thing that did happen was I glued pieces of dowel into some old binding holes before the neext mount, the dowel was a bit undersize but I figured it would still take up the extra space and make for a waterproof seal

    in the morning each piece of dowel was neatly spit out on top of the ski when the glue expanded,

    note to self use bigger dowel and IME the BBQ skewers are perfect
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #3875
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    818
    Yeah I've used Gorilla Glue a bunch of times with no issues. It'll foam up and expand if there's room for it to, but I don't think it does so with nearly enough force to do anything when contained in the bottom of a hole.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •