PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[::: :::]

I use a razor scraper.

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#metoo

[jackattack]

Razor then Sureform

[RAB3]

sharp chisel here

[1000-oaks]

Single edge razor blade.

[OJ204]

[ATTACH]405769[/ATTACH

QST 98s ready to rip w/a 1 degree base bevel and fresh hot wax.


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Sweet! I just mounted shifts on QST 98's.

I will get one of those 3D printed centering tools for my next mount.

[Jaxson]

Single edge razor blade.

Same here and in a plastic holder

[ntblanks]

Sharp wood chisel. Works like a champ.

Sharp chisel FTW!

I'm sure all would have worked great, except maybe the surform. I like to make a flush cut and would have scraped up the topsheet.

Thanks fellas.

[ntblanks]

Finally got these guys mounted up. First time mounting pivots. We'll see if I did it right when I go to set forward pressure tomorrow.

Used a Jigarex. I'd give the user experience a C. Broke one of the tiny (way underbuilt) posts that sets rear bsl/heel point. Also discovered you really need to crank jigs on tight - and the plastic screw mechanism of the Jigarex may not be fully up to the task. Used two additional clamps on the second ski and will do that moving forward.

[Cozzey]

Ill admit it, just botched a mount and quiver killer job--anyone know if you can take out non-epoxied quiver killer inserts and even better, epoxied quiver killer inserts?

Many thanks.

[davjr96]

Ill admit it, just botched a mount and quiver killer job--anyone know if you can take out non-epoxied quiver killer inserts and even better, epoxied quiver killer inserts?

Many thanks.

Heat with a soldering iron to break the epoxy, use the install tool like you are installing it and tighten with a lot of force, then just loosen and the whole insert should come out. Then use pliers on the insert to remove the install tool.

PS, the quiverkiller rescue inserts are great for saving yourself.

Please don't ask why I know any of this

[SoVT Joey]

What are folks using (tool, technique) to trim the mushroomed tops of plastic plugs?

[SoVT Joey]

Heat with a soldering iron to break the epoxy, use the install tool like you are installing it and tighten with a lot of force, then just loosen and the whole insert should come out. Then use pliers on the insert to remove the install tool.

PS, the quiverkiller rescue inserts are great for saving yourself.

Please don't ask why I know any of this

i took a torch and heated the removal tool up holding it with a pair of vice grips and then threaded it into the epoxied insert. The residual heat got the epoxy warm enough to pop it. If you don’t have a soldering iron tip.

quoted the wrong person but you’ll figure it out.

[sweatypowderpig]

are there any nuances to plugging a hole with wooden dowels?
just epoxy and hammer em in?
cure upside down like inserts?

[gregorys]

Bamboo skewers.
(I can't recall who figured this out, but I'll just say that was a very cool discovery.)

In my case, occasionally, the skewers are slightly too large. (All of mine are from the same bag in one of our kitchen drawers - lol. So, I'm not sure if other skewers batches have similar issues.)

Chuck them in a drill and smooth it out with sandpaper. Don't spin it too fast. It can get VERY HOT, VERY FAST. (Ask me how I know.)

Syringe with epoxy and plastic tip. Inject epoxy in hole.
Tap skewer in with a hammer, board, whatever.
I saw them off with a hand, flush-cut pull saw.
At the end, dab some epoxy on the raw top to seal the skewer. (Water will wick right up the end-grain unless you seal it.)

I don't do anything else, that is special, on mine.

[rfconroy]

i took a torch and heated the removal tool up holding it with a pair of vice grips and then threaded it into the epoxied insert. The residual heat got the epoxy warm enough to pop it. If you don’t have a soldering iron tip.

quoted the wrong person but you’ll figure it out.

I use a screw extractor for removal - but apply a ton of heat to the insert first.

[rfconroy]

are there any nuances to plugging a hole with wooden dowels?
just epoxy and hammer em in?
cure upside down like inserts?

I use solid oak dowels that I've bought off Amazon. They're too big and I shave them down to the right size with a razor blade, cut the length, sand in a taper, epoxy the hole, add epoxy to the dowel, hammer it in place, cut the top off flush, epoxy the top to seal, shave the excess epoxy off the top with a chisel.
The process is what you would call... INVOLVED

Debating making some 3D printed plugs out of ABS or PETG for when I don't need to get close to a previous hole.
Anyone want to try them out with me????

[Brasso]

I use solid oak dowels that I've bought off Amazon. They're too big and I shave them down to the right size with a razor blade, cut the length, sand in a taper, epoxy the hole, add epoxy to the dowel, hammer it in place, cut the top off flush, epoxy the top to seal, shave the excess epoxy off the top with a chisel.
The process is what you would call... INVOLVED

Debating making some 3D printed plugs out of ABS or PETG for when I don't need to get close to a previous hole.
Anyone want to try them out with me????

Would there be a benefit over the widely available cheapo plastic plugs?

[spudbumkin]

Bamboo skewers.
(I can't recall who figured this out, but I'll just say that was a very cool discovery.)

In my case, occasionally, the skewers are slightly too large. (All of mine are from the same bag in one of our kitchen drawers - lol. So, I'm not sure if other skewers batches have similar issues.)

Chuck them in a drill and smooth it out with sandpaper. Don't spin it too fast. It can get VERY HOT, VERY FAST. (Ask me how I know.)

Syringe with epoxy and plastic tip. Inject epoxy in hole.
Tap skewer in with a hammer, board, whatever.
I saw them off with a hand, flush-cut pull saw.
At the end, dab some epoxy on the raw top to seal the skewer. (Water will wick right up the end-grain unless you seal it.)

I don't do anything else, that is special, on mine.

Bamboo skewers for the win! I cut them as flush as possible with nippers once the epoxy has cured, plane flush with surfform and seal with purple nail polish (that’s the only color I could steal from my daughter). I feel bamboo is more structurally sound than plastic plugs, especially with slowset epoxy.


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[XXX-er]

Bamboo skewers.
(I can't recall who figured this out, but I'll just say that was a very cool discovery.)

In my case, occasionally, the skewers are slightly too large. (All of mine are from the same bag in one of our kitchen drawers - lol. So, I'm not sure if other skewers batches have similar issues.)

Chuck them in a drill and smooth it out with sandpaper. Don't spin it too fast. It can get VERY HOT, VERY FAST. (Ask me how I know.)

Syringe with epoxy and plastic tip. Inject epoxy in hole.
Tap skewer in with a hammer, board, whatever.
I saw them off with a hand, flush-cut pull saw.
At the end, dab some epoxy on the raw top to seal the skewer. (Water will wick right up the end-grain unless you seal it.)

I don't do anything else, that is special, on mine.

It was a dark and stormy night, I was high on homemade wine and dope wanking about with skis,

I needed to fill binding holes and I found a bag of skewers in the kitchen

Being a HW rep out in the middle of nowhere I fixed a lot of shit with shit I found lying around OR visit the local HW store to find something that could be macgyvered with a swiss army knife, the BBQ skewer hack was easy

I still gota big bag full of BBQ skewers from safeway, you gotta buy plasticplugs

[sweatypowderpig]

Would there be a benefit over the widely available cheapo plastic plugs?

plugging with wood supposedly enables you to overlap/reuse holes. i'll find out firsthand soon
otherwise, i'm using the cheap plastic ones.

Thanks for the info everyone.
sounds like I was on the right track, but it never hurts to ask the hivemind.

productive couple hours today.
-finished insert job on the second ski of a pair of volkl explosiv's i had started like 2 years ago; came out perfect (i had definitely mucked up the first set of inserts as they sit above the top sheet; the perfectionist in me wants to re-do them, but its probably not worth the effort)
-switched my pivot 14 AFDs to GW on my black ops (epoxy and fiberglass in existing holes; shaved down the volcanos from the shop job)
-removed shifts from C&Ds, plastic plugged the useless holes and wood plugged the holes that'll overlap with the STH2s


if anyone's interested, i'm using https://www.bindingfreedom.com/woode...lugs-100-pack/
i'll spend $15 bucks for a 10 year supply of binding hole specific plugs any day of the week.

[Brasso]

For sure. But I thought rfconroy was talking about filling holes that wouldn't conflict with others.

In either case, I'll probably make the switch to wooden plugs so I won't have to worry about conflicts at all anymore. Thanks for the link!

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[XXX-er]

plugging with wood supposedly enables you to overlap/reuse holes. i'll find out firsthand soon
otherwise, i'm using the cheap plastic ones.

Best practice is don't overlap screw holes, instead you can move the binding 1 cm and you will never notice the difference cuz the more holes you put in piece of wood the more likely it is to fail and more likely it is to fail at the point where you got the overlapped wholes but probably not,

the real question is do you feel lucky ?

well do you, punk ?

[waveshello]

plugging with wood supposedly enables you to overlap/reuse holes. i'll find out firsthand soon
otherwise, i'm using the cheap plastic ones.

Thanks for the info everyone.
sounds like I was on the right track, but it never hurts to ask the hivemind.

productive couple hours today.
-finished insert job on the second ski of a pair of volkl explosiv's i had started like 2 years ago; came out perfect (i had definitely mucked up the first set of inserts as they sit above the top sheet; the perfectionist in me wants to re-do them, but its probably not worth the effort)
-switched my pivot 14 AFDs to GW on my black ops (epoxy and fiberglass in existing holes; shaved down the volcanos from the shop job)
-removed shifts from C&Ds, plastic plugged the useless holes and wood plugged the holes that'll overlap with the STH2s


if anyone's interested, i'm using https://www.bindingfreedom.com/woode...lugs-100-pack/
i'll spend $15 bucks for a 10 year supply of binding hole specific plugs any day of the week.

How much are those inserts sticking above the top sheet? If it's just a couple mm you should file them flush with the top sheet and you'd still have enough insert in the ski to get your minimum insertation depth with the machine screw.

Inserts above to topsheet causes the forces you're exerting on the binding to not be distributed directly to the ski, instead you're torquing on those inserts and you might eventually have a problem.

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[gregorys]

It was a dark and stormy night, I was high on homemade wine and dope wanking about with skis,

I needed to fill binding holes and I found a bag of skewers in the kitchen

Being a HW rep out in the middle of nowhere I fixed a lot of shit with shit I found lying around OR visit the local HW store to find something that could be macgyvered with a swiss army knife, the BBQ skewer hack was easy

I still gota big bag full of BBQ skewers from safeway, you gotta buy plasticplugs

I wondered if it was you! But I was too lazy to figure it out.

I thought you were just famous for AQS and dryer sheet squares!
[Honestly, I admire the courage to try weird stuff and write about it. Sometimes that weird stuff works out well and we all benefit for it.]

[sweatypowderpig]

How much are those inserts sticking above the top sheet? If it's just a couple mm you should file them flush with the top sheet and you'd still have enough insert in the ski to get your minimum insertation depth with the machine screw.

Inserts above to topsheet causes the forces you're exerting on the binding to not be distributed directly to the ski, instead you're torquing on those inserts and you might eventually have a problem.

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i had heard that. i'll break out the dremel and give it a shot.
would that mean i'd have to grind down those specific screws to match?