PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[3PinGrin]

Yeah i dont get the people saying dont use GG. DPS even says to use epoxy or polyurethane glue on their mounting instructions, which is what GG is. I mean if it was gonna ruin a ski a tour 1 DPS would be high on that list.

I just said use it sparingly. I know there's a thread where someone claimed it caused bumps on the ski bases upon expansion. Whether that was the real cause, I don't know. But sounds like they may have attributed to the wrong thing. I will try to find it later. My current adhesive of choice for binding screws is GG construction adhesive. Simple to use, stays flexible, easy to remove screws. No long term tests yet, but short term it looks good based on bindings I have removed.

Right now I have to go shovel the foot of snow that fell overnight with more piling up.

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Correction, 16" and piling up.

I found one thread, but pretty sure there were pics in the one I was thinking about. OP says the bumps weren't there until the gg cured, but maybe just didn't notice them before or whatever.

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ounting-issues

[1000-oaks]

^ I'd wager he used way too much glue and cranked in the screws too fast, and it had nowhere to go. The first (and hopefully only) time you do that, you can actually hear the fiberglass layers starting to crack apart, or perhaps the ptex being separated from the glass (if the screw holes reach the base). The angle of the (lubricated) screw threads X screwdriver torque = seriously high fluid pressure.

This is even a bigger deal when installing inserts, because there's more air trapped under them.

[pfluffenmeister]

I just said use it sparingly. I know there's a thread where someone claimed it caused bumps on the ski bases upon expansion. Whether that was the real cause, I don't know. But sounds like they may have attributed to the wrong thing. I will try to find it later. My current adhesive of choice for binding screws is GG construction adhesive. Simple to use, stays flexible, easy to remove screws. No long term tests yet, but short term it looks good based on bindings I have removed.

Right now I have to go shovel the foot of snow that fell overnight with more piling up.

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Correction, 16" and piling up.

I found one thread, but pretty sure there were pics in the one I was thinking about. OP says the bumps weren't there until the gg cured, but maybe just didn't notice them before or whatever.

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ounting-issues

16"!?!
Yes!
Where?

[3PinGrin]

16"!?!
Yes!
Where?

Closer to 19" now, Helena. Below zero tonight and a high of 50 Friday, going to get messy....

^ I'd wager he used way too much glue and cranked in the screws too fast, and it had nowhere to go. The first (and hopefully only) time you do that, you can actually hear the fiberglass layers starting to crack apart, or perhaps the ptex being separated from the glass (if the screw holes reach the base). The angle of the (lubricated) screw threads X screwdriver torque = seriously high fluid pressure.

This is even a bigger deal when installing inserts, because there's more air trapped under them.

Yowsers. Probably right, I still don't think you would need much GG glue given expansion though. But I'm sticking with GG construction adhesive for now.

[1000-oaks]

Closer to 19" now, Helena. Below zero tonight and a high of 50 Friday, going to get messy....



Yowsers. Probably right, I still don't think you would need much GG glue given expansion though. But I'm sticking with GG construction adhesive for now.

Nope, imagine how little empty space there is in the hole after the screw is inserted. You just need a film between the threads.

Cores in soft touring skis can be really porous and soak up a surprising amount of glue or epoxy (which strengthens the wood), so you can swab the hole threads (I use use a tiny flat blade watch screwdriver) with glue and wait a few minutes, and then re-swab with glue from the puddle at the bottom (if there is any) before putting a dab on the screw threads and installing the screws.

[donutlynx]

Couple pair just sold in GS, maybe check with those buyers and have them measure before they mount. But they will not explode.

My centerline tip is using a clear protractor like these, the transparency helps me figure out where the edge is and not measure off the sidewall or topsheet and the protractor part helps me keep the ruler perpendicular to the ski. Either match the overhang on either side and mark the 3" point or start from the 0 and practice your fractions.

Thanks - much appreciated.

[waxoff]

Newest addition:
Attachment 344716

Yeah!

[sierra_cement]

Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)

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[3PinGrin]

Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)

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I use an inexpensive Craftsman drill guide, but haven't ever used it for inserts. Well worth the $30ish I paid several years ago.

Search for Margotron's dowel fix, solid enough to redrill.

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[waxloaf]

Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)

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I’d be inclined to go a cm forward or back if you can.

Defer to others on redrilling filled holes slightly off from the original. Probably helps that you’re using inserts.


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[Supermoon]

Can you find inserts that are just a bit bigger on the OD to cover the existing holes? I feel like I’ve heard of these, it maybe I am miss-remembering

[Jimi_Lee]

Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)

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Lou had a post back in 2006 about this: https://www.wildsnow.com/398/how-man...rill-in-a-ski/

He prefers a mix of epoxy and steel wool to fill. Clean the top sheet smooth after it cures. Then start with a small pilot hole that is straight and correctly located and gradually step up drill sizes.

[Jimi_Lee]

Next question.

I might have eff'ed up in thinking I could re-use holes. Tell me what you think...

Old bindings =marker squire. Rectangular hole pattern with holes spaced 32mm apart x irrelevant distancing.

New bindings : marker tours. Rectangular hole pattern with holes 36 mm apart x irrelevant...

So each hole is 1mm off of the existing hole. Is that out of tolerance? Ski cores are fiberglass +metal sandwich.

[XXX-er]

I’d be inclined to go a cm forward or back if you can.

Defer to others on redrilling filled holes slightly off from the original. Probably helps that you’re using inserts.


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this^^

[~mikey b]

Hardman machinable epoxy

[waxoff]

Had a total failure tonight trying to drill new skis for inserts. I used the BF drill guide block, which i had used last season to successfully install inserts into 2 pairs of skis. I think the metal in that guide block is too soft; it ended up getting slightly reamed out wider with each use. So all my holes came out misaligned tonight. Bleh, what a fiasco. Feel really stupid now.

Been reading previous posts in this thread about repairs with epoxy and wood dowels. Anybody ever try filling in holes with dowels and epoxy and then redrilling and mounting in basically the same locations? (+/- 1 to 2 mm)

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Just for clarification. Did you drill directly with the insert drill bit size or are the faulty holes 3.6/4.1 mm dia?

[PeachesNCream]

I overlapped holes on my rock skis which is basically what you would be doing. I used wood dowels and 2 part epoxy. So far they've been put through ~10 days. I'm 205 without gear and will do 10-15 foot drops, no issues so far.

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[caulfield]

Can you find inserts that are just a bit bigger on the OD to cover the existing holes? I feel like I’ve heard of these, it maybe I am miss-remembering

https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-pack

[AZskibum]

Just ski really really slow for the first season. After that you can open it up. It's all about safety, man.

You can't fool me Ski Patrol...

[sierra_cement]

Just for clarification. Did you drill directly with the insert drill bit size or are the faulty holes 3.6/4.1 mm dia?

I drilled directly with the insert bit size.

Maybe for my next attempt i should first go smaller diameter and then work up to the insert bit?

My previous 2 successful insert installations were converting normally drilled skis to inserts.

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[Reformed]

^^that’s the issue. The bushing in the drill guide isn’t soft. Your bit wandered before it got through the top sheet. SOP for inserts is to drill standard holes first, double check alignment and drill insert-sized holes if everything is bang on.
I’d echo other’s thoughts and suggest going forward or back and trying again instead of trying to repair/re-drill your current situation.

[waxoff]

I drilled directly with the insert bit size.

Maybe for my next attempt i should first go smaller diameter and then work up to the insert bit?

My previous 2 successful insert installations were converting normally drilled skis to inserts.

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Yeah, you just have to file that on the learning experience account!

If you can plug or fill the holes with something firm enough, they might be possible to redrill. Possible starting with something like a 2 mm pilot hole and using a rigid drill press. Then go 4 mm and finally with the insert bit.

Easiest would however be, as previously mentioned, to shift the binding location.

If you go the salvage route, I'd suggest trying to reproduce the situation on some scrap skis and attempt to redo them first, before further messing up your skis.

[detrusor]

Picked up some mini bent chetlers and it says to use 7.0 x 3.5 bit. Never seen that before...I’ve got the standard 7.5 bit...am I gonna die? Is .5 mm really going to go through the base??


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[XXX-er]

yup ^^ you are unlikely to notice the difference 1cm is going to make, especially if its a powski

I remounted a Vert toe 1/2 inch back for a buddy and we didnt bother to move the other toe

it will be interesting to see if he can notice the difference

[Spyderjon]

Picked up some mini bent chetlers and it says to use 7.0 x 3.5 bit. Never seen that before...I’ve got the standard 7.5 bit...am I gonna die? Is .5 mm really going to go through the base??

Depends upon the bsl and the length of the mounting pattern of the ski. Simply measure the ski thickness at the mounting locations. You really want 2.5mm more than the drill depth. And check the protusion length of the screws from the underside of the binding, especially if it's not a junior binding.