Results 3,301 to 3,325 of 6863
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12-26-2019, 11:37 AM #3301Registered User
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This is the method I've settled on. It's fast, relatively simple tools, and measures from the base edge rather than the topsheet. I typically draw 7 or so marks -- one at boot center, 3 on each side. And then take the line that is the best between them with a long straight edge. Takes all of 2 minutes per ski.
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12-26-2019, 11:44 AM #3302
I skip the center line altogether. I just use calipers to measure from the template centerline to the ski edge on both sides, making small adjustments moving the tape until the measurements are even.
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12-26-2019, 11:46 AM #3303
Sure that works, but imagine how great it would be to have a Lego centering tool with Batman holding a laser guide. I'd be finding centers on everything in the house.
I'm working on a Barbie inspired version. You spread her legs over the ski and she's got a little light that shines out her woohoo, and as you move her up and down the ski it traces the center line."timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-26-2019, 12:46 PM #3304Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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T square held against steel edge, put a mark mid ski ish on painters tape, move T quare to other steel edge make another mark the same distance from edge, splitting the difference between the marks gives you ski center
do this again so there are ski center marks 18" apart at mid ski, draw a line between the 2 marks and you got a center line at mid ski
All I use is a t square and a tape measure for all my ski layout cuz mounting ski bindings is really just good layout and so this does not have to be complicated
If I was doing more skis for money I would come up with a faster method but this ain't thatLast edited by XXX-er; 12-26-2019 at 05:14 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-27-2019, 01:21 PM #3305
I'm killing it lately on mounts so I challenged myself last evening. I mounted a pair of Attacks on J skis Allplay with only the following :\
--pencil
--small L square with cm markings
--painters tape
--bsl length w/out the actual boot
--cordless drill
--drill bit
--glue
--screwdriver
No templates, no beer, no bench and I was done in an hr."timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-27-2019, 04:50 PM #3306
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12-27-2019, 07:33 PM #3307
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12-27-2019, 08:33 PM #3308
really? have you ever surgered a rocket? hmmm?
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12-27-2019, 08:47 PM #3309Registered User
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- Nov 2009
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- Vancouver
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- 285
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12-27-2019, 10:10 PM #3310Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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I used to say "it isn't rocket biology "
But then someone always takes my deadpan/pithy comments seriously and I have to splain myselfLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-28-2019, 02:25 AM #3311
For the sharpest, most consistent, thin line, Please base your devices on a Papermate #2 yellow plastic mechanical pencil.
Seriously the best. Buy the 10 pack. You will love them.
Much more accurate than a pen.
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12-28-2019, 07:51 AM #3312Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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12-28-2019, 10:55 AM #3313
Getting used to this now. Note to self don’t drink double espresso beforehand.
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12-28-2019, 11:03 AM #3314Registered User
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- Jan 2014
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That's a baller setup. Me gusta.
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12-28-2019, 11:07 AM #3315
Concurrent activity; my boy builds a killer robot from mega blocks.
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12-28-2019, 11:21 AM #3316
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12-28-2019, 11:22 AM #3317
Hey does anyone have excess little rubber plugs they dont want? I like using them to plug existing holes but some don't.
I got a pack of 50 and used them all up remounting bindings.
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12-28-2019, 01:11 PM #3318
That’s excellent advice
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12-28-2019, 03:30 PM #3319Registered User
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- northern BC
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Back several lives ago they gave us the mechanical pencils to fill out work order slips which were fed into a machine that optically read them to capture data to decide ba whole bunch of things that were mostly FUBar
IME In real life .5mm is pretty fucking delicate and put holes in whatever you were trying to write on and the lead constantly breaks whereas a .7 mm lead didn't break and didn't fuck up whatever you were trying to write on
How exact does a line drawn on a piece of painters tape have to be ??Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-28-2019, 04:15 PM #3320
I'm inclined to agree that the .5 is too delicate and the .7 is fine enough. With a long history using mechanical pencils and lead holders with different lead hardnesses, Rapidographs down to 000, and CAD drawing it's a rabbit hole of options and accuracies vs KISS with reasonable and realistic accuracy, along with moderate durability.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-28-2019, 05:47 PM #3321
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12-28-2019, 06:13 PM #3322Registered User
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- Nov 2018
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- 758
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12-28-2019, 06:23 PM #3323
^^^ this. Drill a tiny pilot hole, send a drywall screw in a few threads (not too far!), then pull out with a claw hammer. A block under the hammer help get a bit more leverage to pull them out cleanly
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12-28-2019, 06:33 PM #3324
Yup, that sounds like a good way to do it. Thanks!
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12-28-2019, 09:54 PM #3325
Well shit, went to do a simple inserting tonight using existing holes. Of course when I pulled off the heels I found the shop “tech” put the new holes real close to a prior set. Too close IMO, like it would have been that hard the give a little clearance? Such is life.
I feel like the consensus is gonna be to adjust the heel position up or back to get decent clearance of prior holes?
Or with it being 2 of the 4—would pulling the two plastic plugs and epoxying in some wood (or whatevs) give enough structure to insert using current holes?
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