PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[XXX-er]

I've always cut up 1/2" pieces of FG cloth to mix with epoxy, my reasoning being that the hole is about 1/2" deep, I wana wet out the FG strands but not have a too resin rich mix

IME next day the epoxy will not yet be completely bonded to the screw so it lets go

but the mixture will stuck to the wood inside of the hole

others here in TGR have used this method with success

[bern43]

Got it. I used 24 hr marine epoxy. Should I wait the full 24 hours before trying to crank down on the screw or just give it a go tomorrow morning?

[Chair 6]

Stilly question. When I try and crank the screw down tomorrow should it actually spin some or will the epoxy prevent that?

The idea is to give the screw a little bit more of a turn so that the thread cuts a tiny bit more into the epoxy and fiberglass mixture that has set up for 24hrs, building pressure and contributing more to the mount than a freely spinning screw would. Don't turn so much that it "spins" again.

[XXX-er]

for 24 hr epoxy I think you wana give the epoxy/ FG the full 24 hrs to cure, slow set epoxy is amazing stuff so it was my my thot that I could rebuild the threads in the ski using the screw as the form for the threads so to speak and IME that is exaclty how it worked

the slowset did not seem to stick to a screw in only a day or 2,

I have put in screws using epoxy that later wouldn't come out without heat so i know the difference

[Falcon3]

My attempt at 3D printing a toe shim was…successful! Designed in Tinkercad to be the footprint of my MTNs and 6.5mm tall. Local library printed it up and came out perfect, exactly 6.5mm. My attempts at finding plexiglass or even a cutting board for this size were very unfruitful so I’m super stoked this worked out.

Exactly 0 ramp after I took off the heel piece’s little rubber boot.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

for 24 hr epoxy I think you wana give the epoxy/ FG the full 24 hrs to cure, slow set epoxy is amazing stuff so it was my my thot that I could rebuild the threads in the ski using the screw as the form for the threads so to speak and IME that is exaclty how it worked

the slowset did not seem to stick to a screw in only a day or 2,

I have put in screws using epoxy that later wouldn't come out without heat so i know the difference

Why don’t you and the rest of the hole repairers get a helicoil kit for skis? I’ve put them in several ski and you can strip a screw hole with one in there


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[XXX-er]

Why don’t you and the rest of the hole repairers get a helicoil kit for skis? I’ve put them in several ski and you can strip a screw hole with one in there]

If I read your ^^ statement right, you put helicoils in skis and they striped anyhow ?

I don't have a helicoil kit cuz I've already sucessfully fixed all my stripped holes with what I had lying around, anyone who wants to buy a helicoil kit should do so

but the epoxy/ FG method also works IME

[MagnificentUnicorn]

If I read your ^^ statement right, you put helicoils in skis and they striped anyhow ?

I don't have a helicoil kit cuz I've already sucessfully fixed all my stripped holes with what I had lying around, anyone who wants to buy a helicoil kit should do so

but the epoxy/ FG method also works IME

Sorry, should have been can’t strip


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[vonn]

That'll clash badly at the toe. Here's a 310mm Jester and a 300mm pattern:

Thanks for the confirmation! Ended up going with Attacks - somewhat fortunately the previous mount turned out to be at +2 so everything worked out great.

[bern43]

Epoxy and fiberglass worked to fix my spinner. I was able to tighten down the screw after 24 hours of cure time. I put some epoxy in the other re-used holes as well. Appreciate everyone's help.

[MottN]

Been mounting my own skis for years, and recently had several pairs to mount so I made a jig that turned out pretty great. I think some folks might find this interesting.

Jig is a centering mechanism on both ends attached to T-slot rails. Flexible contacts grips sides well so clamps not needed when centering mechanism is pre-tensioned a bit.
Uses separately positionable sliders for each of a front and rear template and a center piece. Templates can float up/down to accommodate ski shape, but are locked for for/aft motion.
I played with a bunch of different tubes to find something that worked well as a bushing with a proper stepped bit.

So far I've mounted 3 pairs of bindings with it: a Warden MNC 11, an ATK HR10, and a Kastle rebranded ATK similar to a crest 10.
General procedure was:

• Attach jig to ski
• Set center slider relative to mark
• Use boot to set front and rear pieces
• Drill (Bushings long enough that I had to use vac for chip removal part way through drilling)
• For second ski, use tape measure from tail to make sure jig is positioned in identically and then only use ski center mark to verify position.

Nothing new or novel really...a big step up from paper templates, but not quite a proper binding jig either.

Here's a sped up gif of the process, I'll post more pictures separately if it will let me.
https://imgur.com/9oj33tR

[MottN]

First skis I did:


Second Skis done:


ATK templates:


Bushings:



Underside:

[kid-kapow]

that jig is awesome!

[XXX-er]

Epoxy and fiberglass worked to fix my spinner. I was able to tighten down the screw after 24 hours of cure time. I put some epoxy in the other re-used holes as well. Appreciate everyone's help.

good to hear, so cheap n easy it would seem there is no way you could fix spinners with epoxy & FG ^^ but it always worked for me, a few others including LC and now you

[rfconroy]

Dude... that jig is dope

[::: :::]

that jig is awesome!

Dude... that jig is dope

3rded - nice work!

[Norseman]

yep, that's nice. looks like you got a waterjet, too? or is it a laser table? what other toys lurk back there?

[MottN]

Thanks!!

Its a CNC plasma. Didn't use that one for this though, its all printed parts plus the T-slots and hardware.

[schindlerpiste]

I will mount these Kastle ZX108 with Warden 13 Demo.
I have both 4.1x9.5 and 3.5x7 drill bits.
The skis have no metal Below are pics of the two drill bits/skis. The gold bit is the 4.1. The skis clearly indicate 4.1. However, I'm not sure if that means that I should use the 4.1X9.5 or not. The skis look to be a bit narrow for that. Regardless, I will coat screws with epoxy. What do you think?

[SoVT Joey]

Yes. 4.1x9,5 full send.

[dschane]

Yes. 4.1x9,5 full send.

x2

[XXX-er]

either one would probably work as long as it doesnt go thru the base

I usually use a 5/32nd bit which is I think 1/2 way between 3.5 and 4.1

[Duffman]

Ok, I'm flush with new cheap demo Warden's and about to give this a shot. For us urban folks without a garage , any recommendations on good sturdy foldable or portable workbenches or tables to mount vises on for this?

[californiagrown]

Ok, I'm flush with new cheap demo Warden's and about to give this a shot. For us urban folks without a garage , any recommendations on good sturdy foldable or portable workbenches or tables to mount vises on for this?

Vise? I sometimes use a single C-clamp to hold the ski to my table, but a lot of times i forget. You arent really pushing the ski in a way where it will slide, so the only reason youd need a vise is if you were planning to wax+scrape or tune edges, and even then a vise isnt 100% necessary.

Id feel comfortable mounting on my livingroom floor honestly- just vacuum up the drilled out ski core. YMMV.

[PeachesNCream]

Ok, I'm flush with new cheap demo Warden's and about to give this a shot. For us urban folks without a garage , any recommendations on good sturdy foldable or portable workbenches or tables to mount vises on for this?

I'd agree with Californiagrown, you just need something with good support underneath, a carpeted floor works great, just don't get glue in your carpet