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  1. #6101
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    Nov 2011
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    This thread had great tips for reassembling my Ikea bed for the 5th time. G-flex, bamboo skewers, and steel wool resulted in no spinners or pullouts and a very solid feel.

  2. #6102
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    This thread had great tips for reassembling my Ikea bed for the 5th time. G-flex, bamboo skewers, and steel wool resulted in no spinners or pullouts and a very solid feel.
    Pullouts in your bed are a definite bummer.

  3. #6103
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
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    804
    First time mounting tech bindings

    probably went overboard patching the old holes but a couple of the new holes were close. Planed down the volcanos, sanded down bamboo chopsticks chucked into a drill to make plugs. Gflexed into place, tops slipped off and planned back to flat with the top sheet. Then dremeled the tops down below the surface, colored the tops of the plugs with a blue sharpie, sealed everything up with more gflex and then planned it flat once hard.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    didn’t quite nail the toe alignment on the drilling and had to put a boot in and twist kinda hard while tightening the screws but it seems to have worked out.

    wish there was a better template for the Xenics. I ended up using the vipec template for the heel because it shows the adjustment range, but it would be nice to have markings for the toe pins and BSL.

  4. #6104
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
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    Seattle Area
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    117
    Quote Originally Posted by singlesline View Post
    First time mounting tech bindings

    probably went overboard patching the old holes but a couple of the new holes were close. Planed down the volcanos, sanded down bamboo chopsticks chucked into a drill to make plugs. Gflexed into place, tops slipped off and planned back to flat with the top sheet. Then dremeled the tops down below the surface, colored the tops of the plugs with a blue sharpie, sealed everything up with more gflex and then planned it flat once hard.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	B0BE2B20-751B-4CD9-83C8-5BD6FD4C043E.jpeg 
Views:	87 
Size:	367.5 KB 
ID:	444881

    didn’t quite nail the toe alignment on the drilling and had to put a boot in and twist kinda hard while tightening the screws but it seems to have worked out.

    wish there was a better template for the Xenics. I ended up using the vipec template for the heel because it shows the adjustment range, but it would be nice to have markings for the toe pins and BSL.
    Really like the raven graphic from that year. Looks very clean, nice work!

  5. #6105
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    Mar 2022
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    804
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Really like the raven graphic from that year. Looks very clean, nice work!
    I learned something about white tails last night when I took them for a few resort laps to see how they feel...people don't see them in the snow which means you'll just get your tails stomped on in the lift line 10x as much as usual

    Good thing they are touring skis!

  6. #6106
    Join Date
    Dec 2022
    Posts
    153
    I'm a complete idiot. I didn't tighten down the Slidewright bit collar all the way and the collar slipped. Drilled all the way through the base. Is it fucked or do I have a way out?

  7. #6107
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Imaginationland
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    4,785
    Quote Originally Posted by ApexSkua View Post
    I'm a complete idiot. I didn't tighten down the Slidewright bit collar all the way and the collar slipped. Drilled all the way through the base. Is it fucked or do I have a way out?
    That depends what skis you are mounting. Send them to me and I'll dispose of them.

  8. #6108
    Join Date
    Dec 2022
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    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    That depends what skis you are mounting. Send them to me and I'll dispose of them.
    I didn't want to mention it for fear of getting torn to shreds but they're Asym BG 189s. Could I just clamp a metal scraper to the base, drip base material in, then fill the hole with JbWeld and redrill?

  9. #6109
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    Oct 2008
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    Somewhere else
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexSkua View Post
    I didn't want to mention it for fear of getting torn to shreds but they're Asym BG 189s. Could I just clamp a metal scraper to the base, drip base material in, then fill the hole with JbWeld and redrill?
    Epoxy to seal the holes and then a normal ptex fill.

    It's not ideal but those skis can be fixed.

    Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  10. #6110
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    2,469
    I have had just epoxy in a hole I drilled though for years, but you probably aren't here for an easy answer.

  11. #6111
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    Aug 2014
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    Agreed with above comments. Mount that hole with epoxy on the screw, then flip the ski over and fill the hole with ptex or more epoxy. If you get Scott to send you a small piece of green base material, you can melt that in and it will be almost invisible.

  12. #6112
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Minnesnowda
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    587
    I did the same on a mount when using tape, invested in a 15 buck proper bit from tognar shortly after.

    As other said, mounted the binding, filled 90% of the way with epoxy from base side. Then filled the rest with p-tex.

    It’s been 4 seasons with no issues now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by jbrine; 01-30-2023 at 02:48 PM.
    "Never let the truth get in the way of a good story." Warren M

  13. #6113
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexSkua View Post
    I'm a complete idiot. I didn't tighten down the Slidewright bit collar all the way and the collar slipped. Drilled all the way through the base. Is it fucked or do I have a way out?
    That's a bummer. But not horrible. A core shot could be worse than a 3.5mm to 4.1mm hole. Remember skis are tools not jewels. Those stops are bomber when you do tighten them to your desired depth. As a reminder, let the drill do the work and you shouldn't apply much pressure while drilling.

    Regarding a fix, you can epoxy from the top, but I'd consider mounting the screw with binding sealant like your other holes. Lay bases up & let the sealant cure, then use a tooth pick to put in some epoxy to the top of the base material. Ideally, like repairing a core shot, a thin layer metal grip could then be welded in, then weld in a bit of base material or PTEX*.

    Remove excess, lightly sand, wax, go skiing and forget about it.

    *For those that aren't aware, PTEX candles are base repair material with wax blending in so they burn. The burning produces carbon (IIRC) and can blacken. A weld is stronger than dripping candles for repairs. You can weld PTEX candles if you already have them, but base material without the wax is better for welded repairs.

    Edit: base 'repair' material vs base material.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 01-30-2023 at 09:37 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  14. #6114
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    Sometimes core shots come from the other side.

  15. #6115
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Sometimes core shots come from the other side.
    Sig-worthy... for Core Shot.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #6116
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    That's a bummer. But not horrible. A core shot could be worse than a 3.5mm to 4.1mm hole. Remember skis are tools not jewels. Those stops are bomber when you do tighten them to your desired depth. As a reminder, let the drill do the work and you shouldn't apply much pressure while drilling.

    Regarding a fix, you can epoxy from the top, but I'd consider mounting the screw with binding sealant like your other holes. Lay bases up & let the sealant cure, then use a tooth pick to put in some epoxy to the top of the base material. Ideally, like repairing a core shot, a thin layer metal grip could then be welded in, then weld in a bit of base material or PTEX*.

    Remove excess, lightly sand, wax, go skiing and forget about it.

    *For those that aren't aware, PTEX candles are base material with wax blending in so they burn. The burning produces carbon (IIRC) and can blacken. A weld is stronger than dripping candles for repairs. You can weld PTEX candles if you already have them, but base material without the wax is better for welded repairs.
    Ptex candles have the waxy content.
    Welding rod is a harder extruded polyethylene, but certainly not as hard than sintered base material.
    You can burn relatively clean but burning gets the plastic too hot resulting in the burnt ptex becoming brittle

  17. #6117
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Ptex candles have the waxy content.
    Welding rod is a harder extruded polyethylene, but certainly not as hard than sintered base material.
    You can burn relatively clean but burning gets the plastic too hot resulting in the burnt ptex becoming brittle
    ^^^^This.

    (I edited my post to say 'base 'repair' material (vs base material) ).

    PTEX is used interchangeably across theses materials. More accurately:

    Ski & snowboard bases are sintered, ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMW-PE). IIRC, sintering is the process of 'peeling' a 'log' of UHMW-PE (like cutting making plywood laminations). This process leaves a zillion facets/nooks & crannies that are often incorrectly called 'pores' for the wax to adhere too.

    Base repair material is low density polyethylene which as Tuco said is extruded. Some kid and nordic skis might be this extruded material. Smear machines, welding and PTEX candle (LDPE & wax) repairs and basically 'non-porous' and do not accept wax the same as sintered material. So roughing out welds or PTEX candle repairs can add structure/texture which introduces more micro-surfaces for wax to possible adhere, though not as well as sintered base material patches.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  18. #6118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    ^^^^This.

    (I edited my post to say 'base 'repair' material (vs base material) ).

    PTEX is used interchangeably across theses materials. More accurately:

    Ski & snowboard bases are sintered, ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMW-PE). IIRC, sintering is the process of 'peeling' a 'log' of UHMW-PE (like cutting making plywood laminations). This process leaves a zillion facets/nooks & crannies that are often incorrectly called 'pores' for the wax to adhere too.

    Base repair material is low density polyethylene which as Tuco said is extruded. Some kid and nordic skis might be this extruded material. Smear machines, welding and PTEX candle (LDPE & wax) repairs and basically 'non-porous' and do not accept wax the same as sintered material. So roughing out welds or PTEX candle repairs can add structure/texture which introduces more micro-surfaces for wax to possible adhere, though not as well as sintered base material patches.
    Question - when would you do a base patch instead of a weld? I have a core shot I repaired with a ski mender gun, roughly about 1" x 1/2". It seems to have bonded to the ski base material around the repair, but not the wood core (it has a hollow tap when tapped with a fingernail).

  19. #6119
    Join Date
    Dec 2022
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    153
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    That's a bummer. But not horrible. A core shot could be worse than a 3.5mm to 4.1mm hole. Remember skis are tools not jewels. Those stops are bomber when you do tighten them to your desired depth. As a reminder, let the drill do the work and you shouldn't apply much pressure while drilling.
    Yeah, I went on autopilot and was pushing way too hard on the drill. The collar actually was tightened down all the way but that doesn't matter when you're lazily putting body weight on top of it. Ended up putting a dimple in one hole and drilling all the way through in another. I'll try mounting and then epoxy like mentioned here. I have metal grip and base/Ptex (not sure which). It's a good lesson learned in the end

  20. #6120
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    30,881
    I had a setscrewed collar slip its actualy really easy with those skinny collars that are barely the thickness of the setscrew

    I epoxied a small piece of BBQ skewer in the bottom of the hole and did a (pure ptex & soldering iron ) patch from the bottom, no biggy

    I started using a solid piece of 1.5" wood on the drill bit which can't slip
    Last edited by XXX-er; 01-30-2023 at 11:12 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #6121
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Question - when would you do a base patch instead of a weld? I have a core shot I repaired with a ski mender gun, roughly about 1" x 1/2". It seems to have bonded to the ski base material around the repair, but not the wood core (it has a hollow tap when tapped with a fingernail).
    When other options fail you could patch, but first you might try a thin layer of metal grip on the core before re-welding base repair material. Other than learning how, that size may not be worth cutting and patch since you may not really notice a performance difference.

    Here's one core shot repair like that:



    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  22. #6122
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexSkua View Post
    Yeah, I went on autopilot and was pushing way too hard on the drill. The collar actually was tightened down all the way but that doesn't matter when you're lazily putting body weight on top of it. Ended up putting a dimple in one hole and drilling all the way through in another. I'll try mounting and then epoxy like mentioned here. I have metal grip and base/Ptex (not sure which). It's a good lesson learned in the end
    Stuff happens. Learn from it and try again.

    It is kinda interesting how we get super sensitized on the work bench about our skis and then go out and ski over rocks and trees, whatever. Some like skiing parking lots.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  23. #6123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    When other options fail you could patch, but first you might try a thin layer of metal grip on the core before re-welding base repair material. Other than learning how, that size may not be worth cutting and patch since you may not really notice a performance difference.

    Here's one core shot repair like that:



    Thanks!

  24. #6124
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    Sep 2011
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    Kootenays
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    401
    I've been using gorilla glue as my super easy dgaf fix job, halfway through cure I pack it solid as it seems to be expanding foam kind of epoxy. but if you have it open/ kinda porous not solid, seems like ptex grips pretty well to this too! not the best/longest patch job but fast!

  25. #6125
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    Mar 2008
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    GG does expand ^^ I glued pieces of dowel into old binding holes that were too skinny but i figured it wouldn't matter but in the AM all those pieces of dowel were neatly puked up on top of the ski it was funny

    so instead i started using BBQ skewers which fit in screw holes better

    GG also likes water BTW and will seek it out
    Last edited by XXX-er; 01-30-2023 at 01:46 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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