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  1. #3201
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    13
    Mounted my own deathwishes with shifts on BF inserts. Going straight for the inserts was a rookie mistake, I probably did 10 failed test mounts and 5 okay-ish ones. Was forced to mount for real before I felt confident because my inserts started to strip.

    If you're tapping you may as well drill by hand IMO as the tapping seems to be the main determinant of the screw angle. I messed around with drilling by hand, with a binding freedom drill guide, and with a janky old drill press that probably wasn't true vertical. All my results varied wildly based on the tapping by hand. Next time I do it I will make a guide block for the tap and probably just freehand the drill. I did end up using the drill press for ease of centering because it allowed me to visually adjust the center of the widening hole to match the template during the tapering beginning of the drill bit. Center punching was not a reliable way to exactly center the bit. The punches don't always center exactly where the tip of the punch is placed and if a punch was off it was worse than useless and impossible to repunch.

    As mentioned in this thread I should definitely have done a normal screw mount of the binding and then widened the holes to insert width instead of going straight for inserts. That would have allowed any centering issues to be found and fixed before it was too late.

    Miraculously it all worked out though! The final result wasn't 100% dead perfect but the screws went in just fine with minimal strain on one or two.

  2. #3202
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Steamboat
    Posts
    161
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    I got two fingers caught just past the last knuckle in an unmounted pivot last week and with only one available hand, had to pretty much just pull them out millimeter by millimeter. Tops of fingers are still a little numb. Was fiddling with brake arms a couple days ago and had another unmounted pivot snap closed on the meat of my right index finger hard enough to draw blood. While mounting a pivot today, the steel baseplate blew off and all the guts spilled out. Narrowly missed getting nailed by the spring as it shot out of the brake. Tis the season, I guess. I hope Iíve learned my lesson at this point.
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Did my thumb about 7 years ago and lost the nail. I keep my hands away from those fuckers now.

  3. #3203
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,300
    Crushed mine last year.

    The worst were the Geze heels from the late Ď80ís. Those fuckers would wreck you


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  4. #3204
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    314
    I hate to revel in all yíallís pain, but Iím glad Iím not the only JONG to lose a fingernail to some pivots.

  5. #3205
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,300
    Mounted my own fucking skis last night. Swiss cheese praxis Freeride. I put aattack 13 demos on to spread the hole pattern. Previous mounts were dynafit. Confidence is high.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  6. #3206
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    10,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    I hate to revel in all yíallís pain, but Iím glad Iím not the only JONG to lose a fingernail to some pivots.
    I can also vouch that both thumb and heel retention are solid. I believe its why they are such a beloved binding.

    Ok, question. I have both a set of STH2 13's and Attack 13's sitting in a box. Which should I mount on my kids new park skis??
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  7. #3207
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stumptown
    Posts
    6,055

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I can also vouch that both thumb and heel retention are solid. I believe its why they are such a beloved binding.

    Ok, question. I have both a set of STH2 13's and Attack 13's sitting in a box. Which should I mount on my kids new park skis??
    Attacks have less ramp angle right? If so do those.

  8. #3208
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    12,662
    i mounted 2 pr fucking skis this weekend
    dodging multiple old mounts w/ some old griffons on a beater pair of rossi smash 7's for the kid
    mantra m5s w/ sth2 13s pour moi

    the killer step for me every single time is printing the template...my printer does not want to retain settings...gotta manually measure that paper each time to double check

  9. #3209
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    314
    Iím lucky my shit $10 printer that sucks down ink and hates doing its job is always dead on when printing templates.

  10. #3210
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Lind3n View Post
    Mounted my own deathwishes with shifts on BF inserts. Going straight for the inserts was a rookie mistake, I probably did 10 failed test mounts and 5 okay-ish ones. Was forced to mount for real before I felt confident because my inserts started to strip.

    If you're tapping you may as well drill by hand IMO as the tapping seems to be the main determinant of the screw angle. I messed around with drilling by hand, with a binding freedom drill guide, and with a janky old drill press that probably wasn't true vertical. All my results varied wildly based on the tapping by hand. Next time I do it I will make a guide block for the tap and probably just freehand the drill. I did end up using the drill press for ease of centering because it allowed me to visually adjust the center of the widening hole to match the template during the tapering beginning of the drill bit. Center punching was not a reliable way to exactly center the bit. The punches don't always center exactly where the tip of the punch is placed and if a punch was off it was worse than useless and impossible to repunch.

    As mentioned in this thread I should definitely have done a normal screw mount of the binding and then widened the holes to insert width instead of going straight for inserts. That would have allowed any centering issues to be found and fixed before it was too late.

    Miraculously it all worked out though! The final result wasn't 100% dead perfect but the screws went in just fine with minimal strain on one or two.
    If you want, you can mount the tap in the drill press and just turn the chuck by hand. It's a minor pain in the ass, but it makes things go in straight.

  11. #3211
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,203
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Dildo snapped up and caught it against the wire bail that holds the heel up? I've done that before when adjusting Pivots with a bit too much bourbon in me.
    Those things are fucking mousetraps. I've definitely learned that lesson the uncomfortable way.

  12. #3212
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    10,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    Attacks have less ramp angle right? If so do those.
    Good point.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  13. #3213
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,203
    Doing a mount tonight on a swiss cheese ski that has 2 hole conflicts in each toe. Those 2 holes won't overlap old holes, but they'll be closer than ideal (with old holes less than 1cm both in front and behind the new holes). Old holes are plugged with ptex. Core is in good shape, but it's definitely not a new ski. It's a Bibby, so no metal in the ski.

    Options:

    1) mount like normal. hope for the best.
    2) mount with epoxy and steel wool bits. (less excited about this one just because I'll be removing the bindings at the end of the season).
    3) mount with inserts.
    4) mount a thin (~1mm) piece of metal under the toe and drill / mount through that (the idea being the metal would help keep anything from pulling up).

  14. #3214
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,552
    ^^^ 7mm+ hole center to center should be fine based on my experience and this pseudo scientific test:


    https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com...y-drilled-skis

  15. #3215
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Doing a mount tonight on a swiss cheese ski that has 2 hole conflicts in each toe. Those 2 holes won't overlap old holes, but they'll be closer than ideal (with old holes less than 1cm both in front and behind the new holes). Old holes are plugged with ptex. Core is in good shape, but it's definitely not a new ski. It's a Bibby, so no metal in the ski.

    Options:

    1) mount like normal. hope for the best.
    2) mount with epoxy and steel wool bits. (less excited about this one just because I'll be removing the bindings at the end of the season).
    3) mount with inserts.
    4) mount a thin (~1mm) piece of metal under the toe and drill / mount through that (the idea being the metal would help keep anything from pulling up).
    I don't think 4) will do anything.

    I'd do inserts.

  16. #3216
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,203
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    ^^^ 7mm+ hole center to center should be fine based on my experience and this pseudo scientific test:


    https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com...y-drilled-skis
    Good info. I'll have to measure and see if I can maintain 7mm. It'll be close.

    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    I don't think 4) will do anything.

    I'd do inserts.
    Seems like inserts just remove even more material in an area that's already pretty hole-y. I'm afraid that the little bridges of core between the new holes and the old holes would fail.

    After thinking about this a bit more, I'm leaning heavily towards #4. Meaning I'll mount a metal plate to the ski with 4 screws that are well away from any existing holes. Then I'll mount the binding through that plate (tapping those holes). I think that'll go a long way towards distributing any upward (pullout) force over 8 screws (4 binding screws + 4 extra screws in the plate).

  17. #3217
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,348
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Iím lucky my shit $10 printer that sucks down ink and hates doing its job is always dead on when printing templates.
    the problem can be that somehow a template gets printed that is not to scale for whatever reason be it printer or program related

    SO the template should always be checked against the binding itself
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #3218
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Seems like inserts just remove even more material in an area that's already pretty hole-y. I'm afraid that the little bridges of core between the new holes and the old holes would fail.

    After thinking about this a bit more, I'm leaning heavily towards #4. Meaning I'll mount a metal plate to the ski with 4 screws that are well away from any existing holes. Then I'll mount the binding through that plate (tapping those holes). I think that'll go a long way towards distributing any upward (pullout) force over 8 screws (4 binding screws + 4 extra screws in the plate).
    That's true. Helicoil might be the ideal middle ground.

    The metal plate idea might help a bit if you screw it down elsewhere. I guess you'll just need to make it thick enough to fit the countersink for a flathead screw.

  19. #3219
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    5,298
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Good info. I'll have to measure and see if I can maintain 7mm. It'll be close.



    Seems like inserts just remove even more material in an area that's already pretty hole-y. I'm afraid that the little bridges of core between the new holes and the old holes would fail.

    After thinking about this a bit more, I'm leaning heavily towards #4. Meaning I'll mount a metal plate to the ski with 4 screws that are well away from any existing holes. Then I'll mount the binding through that plate (tapping those holes). I think that'll go a long way towards distributing any upward (pullout) force over 8 screws (4 binding screws + 4 extra screws in the plate).
    What binding? I may have some plates for you if you want them

  20. #3220
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,203
    Quote Originally Posted by abraham View Post
    What binding? I may have some plates for you if you want them
    P18's / Cast. I actually have some plates, but I'm trying to keep it thin. I just want to add a bit metal to (theoretically) strengthen the mount, but the binding screws would still go into the ski.

    I'm gonna swing by the metal store this afternoon and fondle some options. I'll report back with whatever terrible contraption I rig up.

  21. #3221
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Vinyl Valley
    Posts
    1,124
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    ^^^ 7mm+ hole center to center should be fine based on my experience and this pseudo scientific test:


    https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com...y-drilled-skis
    That makes sense, I have a copy of the Look Tech Manual from 2004/05 that says, "Binding holes should be 5mm or more apart".

  22. #3222
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    5,298
    Right on. I have some dynalook plates I'd let go for next to nothing but that plus Cast seems unnecessary

  23. #3223
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    923
    Mounted my kid skis. No indication of drill size so I went 4.1
    Bentchetlers mini 153 with tyrolia demo so younger kids can use them or with changing boot sizes

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

  24. #3224
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,005
    Mounted up some STH2 16s and adjusted toes and forward pressure. Weird thing is, one of the toe pieces is loose on it's baseplate. Like you can jiggle it when the boot isn't clicked in. Seems solid and fine when the boot is clicked in though. Any ideas what that's about?

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  25. #3225
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    1,804
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    Mounted up some STH2 16s and adjusted toes and forward pressure. Weird thing is, one of the toe pieces is loose on it's baseplate. Like you can jiggle it when the boot isn't clicked in. Seems solid and fine when the boot is clicked in though. Any ideas what that's about?

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    Stupid question but did you make sure to tighten the thingamabob to the thingamajig? Ski'em, you'll be fine!



    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

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