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  1. #2826
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    2,646
    Tested out a few different ways to find ski center the past week and I think I found a winner for now (digital calipers would make this easy but I don’t have those). Quick Grip bar clamp around the edges, then measure with a straight edge.

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  2. #2827
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    I had one of those stops come lose mid still and I drilled right through the ski 🤨 Went back to the BF bit then.


    Ok trying a new mount and am gonna post questions as I go because it’s 100% free hand, no template. I have a pair of ravens drilled for Tectons and will be installing Xenics. Heels match. So plan is to install heels, snap binding toe onto boot, snug the boot onto the prongs, move heel forward or backward until toes don’t conflict with existing holes, and mark on the ski.

    Also for sanity check: since no forward pressure on touring heels, I just want that sliver of light between the boot and the heel binding.

    Somehow this all feels weirder with no template and installing with the heel already done. I suppose it is.

    Any better ideas?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums


  3. #2828
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    2,729
    I've always inserted the drill bit so only the 9.5 or desired depth was exposed. Worst case is it slips but that just results in a shallow hole and is salvageable.

    Getting ready to drill a bunch o skis.

  4. #2829
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    I had one of those stops come lose mid still and I drilled right through the ski �� Went back to the BF bit then.


    Ok trying a new mount and am gonna post questions as I go because it’s 100% free hand, no template. I have a pair of ravens drilled for Tectons and will be installing Xenics. Heels match. So plan is to install heels, snap binding toe onto boot, snug the boot onto the prongs, move heel forward or backward until toes don’t conflict with existing holes, and mark on the ski.

    Also for sanity check: since no forward pressure on touring heels, I just want that sliver of light between the boot and the heel binding.

    Somehow this all feels weirder with no template and installing with the heel already done. I suppose it is.

    Any better ideas?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Fuck if you do that ^^ the universe will likely consume itself !

    But in the event it doesnt, IME drill collars will slip SO instead I drill a hole thru a wine bottle cork, I slip the drill in the chuck to leave as much drill bit showing as I need, all that can happen is the drill can loosen so I don't drill deep enough

    I never use jigs or those flacid paper templates, SO what is important is ski boot center in relation to the ski center mark SO find it on the boot, mark with a piece of tape or a sharpie mark, put the boot center mark at ski center, use a T-square on the ski top to line up the boot mark cuz its hard to just eyeball, click the toe piece onto the boot, line up BC / ski center to see where you are at

    So at this point if you got existing binding holes you wana use and the marks are within 1 cm, I would just do it cuz you won't feel 1 cm unless you are a princess, if it IS further than 1cm you got enough room to drill another hole

    figure out where the toe will go in relation to the heelpice holes you are using, take into account whatever gap the binding needs (I am unsure what those bindings you mention used ? ) mark where your toe piece will go

    now drill one hole for the toe piece, mount the toe piece, click the boot in, let the binding move where it wants, mark the other holes, this will make sure the boot drops dead center into the pins and Bob's yer uncle eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #2830
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    751
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    Tested out a few different ways to find ski center the past week and I think I found a winner for now (digital calipers would make this easy but I don’t have those). Quick Grip bar clamp around the edges, then measure with a straight edge.
    Great idea w/ the clamp, thanks. I’ve got calipers but its always tough (esp. w/ semi-cap skis) to get a solid reference point for the edges. Cant believe I never thought of throwing a clamp on them...

  6. #2831
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Fuck if you do...
    now drill one hole for the toe piece, mount the toe piece, click the boot in, let the binding move where it wants, mark the other holes, this will make sure the boot drops dead center into the pins and Bob's yer uncle eh

    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums


  7. #2832
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,864
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    That was the standard procedure with the old 5 hole dynafit toes.

  8. #2833
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?

    Excellent tip brudduh

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    • Mark & mount the heel.
    • Mark and drill one toe hole (one of the two closest to the heel piece).
    • Temporarily install the toe with one screw and click the boot in place. The mounted boot perfectly orients the toe piece.
    • Mark/centerpunch one of the two front toe holes.
    • Remove the toe, drill the 2nd hole & remount.
    • Repeat for the other undrilled front hole (serves as a double-check that you got hole #2 right).
    • Mark & drill the final hole.


    Theoretically, you could mark the 2 front holes at the same time, but you might as well them one at a time, 'coz no matter how accurate you are with your punch, you'll be off by 1/2mm.

    Good thing about Fritschis - counterbored toe holes instead of countersunk ... the boot finagling works much better as a result. Enjoy your Xenics

    If you're at all uncomfortable not having a template, you can use the Xenic toepiece to trace one out. Then, locate where the front of the boot is relative to the screw holes. I only mention this (front of boot) so you don't use the pin line. If trace out a template, I'd use it for locating only one hole (following xxx-er's method).

    My templates are "old school", in the sense that I cut a window out for where the front of the boot toe is (instead of today's common practice of mimicking a jig & working off of boot center).

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  9. #2834
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?]
    typicaly some fucking dentist will ask for the aforementioned (flacid ) template, drill all the holes and find something is off

    BUT if you mount the heel piece dead center it is mutherfucking dead center,

    then mounting the toe piece by ONE screw allows the toe piece to rotate VERY slightly around that screw/pivot to find its happy place BEFORE you drill the second screw which will fix the binding where ever you drilled screw #2

    SO if you got the boot clamped down in the binding the toe piece has got to be in the exact right spot to put the heel piece at dead center on the pins

    as Dee Hub points out it was standard on the 5 hole verts maybe using the center screw BUT even with one screw being off to the side on a 4 hole Rad toe piece the amount the binding will shift is actualy VERY VERY small

    NOT enough to look noticeably cockeyed at the toepiece but at the heel of the boot enough to thro off the alignment of the boot into the pins

    A side benefit is that if you are drilling as you go maybe with a pilot holes you got a chance to fix a minor layout fuckup ... before you fuck everything up

    BTW this procedure also works for frame bindings so I have used the same method to mount an FR+

    also works to get a tele boot heel sitting in the middle of the ski
    Last edited by XXX-er; 10-13-2019 at 09:20 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #2835
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,844
    Homebrewd the dentist using templates to mount up some community EP pros. Such a fun ski when fucking around.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #2836
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    whitefish
    Posts
    1,232
    anyone have a template for the Plum Yak? that way i can mount my own fucking skis

  12. #2837
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Just finished these (192cm DPS Lotus 138 R3.2) Ended up remaking the MTN Template for greater accuracy.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...20#post5784120

    Mounting tech bindings stresses me out a little. I made this ghetto drill bit guide, for sanity's sake.

    I have the binding freedom drill bit guide, but it hasn't been as cooperative for me as the above.

    Can't wait to get out there and play around on these.

  13. #2838
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    Just finished these (192cm DPS Lotus 138 R3.2) Ended up remaking the MTN Template for greater accuracy.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...20#post5784120

    Mounting tech bindings stresses me out a little. I made this ghetto drill bit guide, for sanity's sake.

    I have the binding freedom drill bit guide, but it hasn't been as cooperative for me as the above.

    Can't wait to get out there and play around on these.
    Luck,
    Where do I find your updated template?
    I've got a mtn mount in my future...

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  14. #2839
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    Luck,
    Where do I find your updated template?
    I've got a mtn mount in my future...

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    It's here:
    https://tinyurl.com/y6qfpd6a

    For my own convenience, and not really considering that I might share these some day, I recreated Knut's design elements and used his naming convention. I will change the names and colors at some point in the near future, but the links should stay intact.

  15. #2840
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
    Posts
    7,889
    .Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #2841
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,577
    Going heavier or lighter?

  17. #2842
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
    Posts
    7,889
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    Going heavier or lighter?
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  18. #2843
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218
    That's pretty hawt. Where'd you go? On the dot?

  19. #2844
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Thanks lucknau!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  20. #2845
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
    Posts
    7,889
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    That's pretty hawt. Where'd you go? On the dot?
    7mm back.

  21. #2846
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Land of the Long Flat Vowel
    Posts
    1,090
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
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    Light enough.

  22. #2847
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    2,345
    10 yo Granddaughter mounted up her new Moment ZephyrsClick image for larger version. 

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  23. #2848
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    295
    Solid, solid work bigdude.




    Seriously. Don't see enough of that these days.

  24. #2849
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    2,345
    J
    Quote Originally Posted by scrambledbacon View Post
    Solid, solid work
    Thanks

    Her parents (son and DIL) have her centered. She has to work / earn what she gets. To her being able to drill the holes, put some glue in the holes, insert screws and tighten them up is a treat. She said putting glue in the holes was the most fun, go figure.

    Seriously. Don't see enough of that these days.

  25. #2850
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    13,234
    made my shop rat ass smile
    i upgraded my drill

    and mounted this chicks skis for her
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

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