Results 3,276 to 3,300 of 6863
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12-24-2019, 09:13 AM #3276
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12-24-2019, 03:17 PM #3277
Legos are cool.
I'm mounting my own fucking skis which are already drilled for Jesters.
I don't want fucking Markers (and I'm fucking cheap and already have STHs and FKSs)
So STHs are a complete disaster in the toe with every single hole slightly overlapping (and I don't want to go forward or back).
On to the FKS, which looks pretty good.
Too good ... in fact so good that it looks like the I can reuse the rear two Jester toe holes.
Measuring on the mounting templates the FKS's rear two toe holes are 35mm apart while the Jester's are 36mm.
Placing the actual FKS toe onto the ski the fit looks extremely good.
I'm going for it, even though I'll likely die.
PS Mounting a Kastle MX98.
That's got the Titinal, so 4.1mm drill, yes?In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...
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12-24-2019, 04:00 PM #3278Registered User
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- Nov 2018
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- 759
Definitely 4.1
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12-24-2019, 05:01 PM #3279
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12-24-2019, 06:49 PM #3280
^^^ Yep, they fit nicely.
IIRC I read to mount FKSs for a BSL of 5mm smaller than your boot to get best dildo performance?
Don't FKS only have +/- 7.5mm?In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...
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12-24-2019, 10:23 PM #3281
-5mm on the look jig. The paper templates are very close, I just round 1mm on both sides, so essentially close the paper template 2mm.
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12-24-2019, 10:23 PM #3282
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
Jester FKS is generally a good match.
MTN and Vipec/Tecton heels are very close as well.
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12-25-2019, 08:44 AM #3283
FKNA Lego stoke on Xmas day!!!
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile appWhy don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.
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12-25-2019, 06:23 PM #3284Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2005
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- Vinyl Valley
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- 1,812
I thought the process was... jig at correct bsl, drill the toe holes, then close the jig at the heels only by 5mm and drill the heels? NOT THIS
caveat- I've only used the paper template to practice an fks mount, I've never drilled holes and mounted bindings on a pair of skis.
Edit- Found the answer here @ Option 1
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1591465472
"For best range and adjustability, close the template 5mm from the actual boot sole length."Last edited by skuff; 06-06-2020 at 06:01 PM.
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12-25-2019, 07:29 PM #3285
Dshack89 I made a centering tool like the one you described. Pretty easy with a drill press, digital caliper, and the right drill bits. Was able to get mine with .2mm of center. Personally I find it way faster and more precise than measuring the middle on various points on the ski and connecting the dots (which I did for years).
Would be cool to see something like the slidewright be commercially available. CNC could probably get something dead nuts centered.
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12-25-2019, 08:48 PM #3286with stoopid
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
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- everyday sunshine
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- 312
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12-25-2019, 09:30 PM #3287
That's perfect! Thanks for sharing.
Sent from my SM-N970U using TGR Forums mobile app
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12-26-2019, 07:59 AM #3288
I can get it dead on center with the CNC, but the laser is even better. One variable is the tip location of writing utensil and what it's drawn on; tape, smooth or matte top sheet, etc. A pencil is easy BUT if the sharpener doesn't sharpen the pencil perfectly symmetrical, there will be an inaccuracy. A felt pen or ink pen might bleed and/or create a wider line than a super sharp pencil. A mechanical pencil might be the most consistent.
Regardless, if everyone gets hung up on over thinking a (+/-) .1mm tolerance, you'll never get there AND then there's the drilling and tapping......
That's why I am adding the two rulers so you can quickly and accurately double check your marks relative to the edges without dicking around with calipers. I consider the scribed lines as giving me a 'target range' and the edge to center ruler as the final measuring step.
So, with that in mind, I am in the middle of a run with the center hole at 5/16" to allow for more versatility for the tool to also help with tapping. A mechanical pencil, pen or felt tipped pen can work at 5/16". A pencil will need tape for a tighter fit.
Go back to the smaller hole or go with the 5/16" hole?
Or:
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
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Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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12-26-2019, 08:17 AM #3289
Terry,
A Lego version with a laser line projection would be tits.
If you added a Lego Batman to the top as an option, I think it would forever settle the argument on which is the best way to find the center of a ski.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-26-2019, 08:24 AM #3290
I am using bamboo shishkabob skewers and glue to plug holes. I couldn't cut off the excess with a carpet knife so I used a Dremel wheel and sort of banged up the ski. It's old not a big deal. But what's a better way to cut off excess wood after plugging?
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using TapatalkI <heart> hot tele-moms
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12-26-2019, 08:42 AM #3291
A simple pocket planer is awesome
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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12-26-2019, 08:46 AM #3292
Some just use nippers but they tend to crush the dowels and leave a point. For a nice clean cut use a woodworkers pull saw like this. If you put a piece of painters tape on the backside of the saw face, you will take away any chance of marring the ski surface.
https://www.shelllumber.com/stanley-...-dbl-edge.html"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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12-26-2019, 08:59 AM #3293
BTW, I do have a few SkiScribe v1.0's available for guinea pigs.
Here's the laser at work. Fun toy....I mean tool.
I was thinking a Lego Wonder Woman would be the call considering this crowd, but the Lego version isn't very flattering.Last edited by Alpinord; 12-26-2019 at 09:24 AM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-26-2019, 09:16 AM #3294
Alpinord - Good point I’m not needing the center line being perfect, and I like the idea of having the ruler on the tool to measure a tolerance range. Looking forward to seeing the final product!
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12-26-2019, 09:27 AM #3295Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-26-2019, 10:06 AM #3296
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
Same concept but cheaper - coping saw.
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...MaAtAeEALw_wcB
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12-26-2019, 10:13 AM #3297
I use a retractable razor scraper to cut filler stumps
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12-26-2019, 10:17 AM #3298Registered User
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- Nov 2006
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- idaho panhandle!
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- 9,987
I use a dremel with a cut off wheel then epoxy over the exposed wood.
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12-26-2019, 10:35 AM #3299
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12-26-2019, 11:20 AM #3300
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
Easiest way to find a center imo is get a nice squared block of wood and a good metal ruler.
Tape down template roughly centered on top sheet (one piece of tape at front of paper, one at back). Put block up against the ski edge, and measure from the block to the center line of the template (at the front toe holes) with a ruler. Measure from other side of ski. Lift up front piece of tape and adjust side to side. Tape down. Repeat til distance on each side is the same to the center line of the template.
Repeat process for heel. Takes a couple minutes max, finds center line relative to the ski base/edges rather than top sheet/sidewalls and is very accurate
Easy peasy. One of these days I’ll make a database of public templates from the cad drawings I’ve made for myself- tend to prefer them over most of the paper templates available because the thin lines make it easier to precisely alone the Heel and toe patters together so their center lines align. And I check/include the actual bsl range the mount will accommodateLast edited by Muggydude; 12-26-2019 at 11:44 AM.
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