did you use a template? Or, lets presume your mounting center ski. Mark a center line, line up boot mid sole with middle of ski, mock put toe of boot in binding, just freehand mark the holes you can see in the toe piece and drill those. Then, bring up the heel and again just kinda draw marker through the holes you can see through in the binding and start drilling. Is that basically the gist?
I used a paper template from the following link, ran a dry run on a scrap 1x4, then went to town.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...yYY6Gg2a3Dd245
Used the MottN 3d printed jig to mount up some zero g 85s with the new version of the ATK Crest--mostly for local skimo league (turns out reverse cambered ravens are pretty sketchy trying to bomb an icy run in the dark with a headlamp...)
The jig made life easy. Not as easy as a "real" jig, but certainly better than mounting pin bindings with paper templates.
Only one problem: I overcooked my drill bit, which heated the brass sleeve, which warmed up the surrounding plastic enough to move out of position. I was expecting a ski this light to be a lot easier to drill through...not to have a reinforced mounting plate that I had to fight through with my bit.
I was still able to get the boot straight when tightening down the toe piece but I think the toe jig is now a little bit off. Guess I need a sharper bit...or in the future I'll only use the jig for layout on metal-layer skis, hit it with the center punch, and then drill outside of the jig.
TGR, where Ravens and Crests are a skimo setup [emoji23]
Sharp bits definitely make a big difference, I had just gotten used to the brass inserts slipping around and putting a ton of weight on the drill, but then got a new bit for my last few mounts and it's amazing how much less time and force it took.
Also idk if you're using pla or petg for the template but petg is a lot less likely to melt/warp.
The ones I make, I print in PETG fwiw (pretty sure I printed yours, right Singlesline?)
I've drilled more than a few metal skis and haven't had that happen to me personally. Might be a combination of taking longer to get through the metal and the bit being on the larger side, so more friction. I think the tolerance on ski bits is such that most of the time they work in the brass, but sometimes they are pretty tight or very rarely don't fit at all.
It be nice to be able to use a couple drops of cutting fluid...I'm guessing that's a pretty bad idea as you wouldn't want a bunch of oil in a hole you're about to glue...
Recently had a successful mount of the ATK Freeraider 15 to some Head Kore 111's.
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Took three templates to get it done. Used a FKS/Pivot template, the one that used to come in the box that I have used at least 25 times, to establish the centerline of the ski. Used the ATK printable template from their website to transfer the toe pin line and heel based on my BSL to a mylar template that I've made. Mylar template got placed on centerline, BSL on rec line and drilled.
Finish product.
Very happy ATK choose to use the tried and true posi-drive screws instead of torque heads like dynafit. One small gripe with ATK is I wish they had used a beefier screw head on the heel track adjuster. I do like how much less force it takes to step into the heel pins versus the dynafit FT Verts and the HM-12's that I've used in the past. I do also question how much stopping power the brakes have. The seem pretty spindly!
Worst part of the process was that it was like 10 degrees in my garage.
Hey now, I won my first ever skimo race on the ravens (let’s ignore that I had no idea what I was doing so I entered the 1-lap category that was mostly children and senior citizens…).
As for the crests…well…I’m not seriously racing. I’m doing some beer league races for fun and maybe suffering through the one big event my local mountain puts on. This seemed like a pretty light setup that I might actually want to ski and would feel safe skiing on.
Not like my boots are super light either…I’m in a 15-1600g boot
Don't use cutting oil to go through metal in a ski. Sharp bits are the answer every time. If you are mounting lots of skis with metal then you need to buy more bits. Once a bit takes a little more pressure to get though a top sheet, metal or no metal, I retire it into the Household Bit Collection. Dull bits lead to problems and unless you are a machinist sharpening them might lead to a bit walking off sideways. Bits are cheap enough in the grand scheme of things to always have a few new ones on hand.
Dumb question, which I think I know the answer. Trying to adjust Look SPX bindings on a loaner ski, and set forward pressure. I know the yellow indicator is supposed to be in the middle but mostly yellow at as far forward as adjustment will allow. Is this good or do I need to move rear mount forward 1 cm?
If moving, will wood glue set in a couple hours? They are headed up this evening. Thanks.
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looking for templates
Dynafit Ridge and 7 Summits
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
I’ve got some holes plugged with bamboo skewers and epoxy that I’d like to use. I’m assuming best approach is just to make new holes right next to them? No chance I’m pulling them out of assume? Maybe redrill right on top of them? Will the bit wander into the hole or away?
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I should have found this thread sooner to mount my own effing skis, but alas here we are.
Had a pair of skis mounted by a reputable shop and had the heel piece rip out of one of the skis on a trip recently. Heel fully ripped off, holes volcanoed. (this was the first mount on a brand new ski) Got lucky and the ski didn't travel too far before stopping, so I still have both boards. Having never had this happen before, I'm curious what kind of compensation I should expect/ask for from the shop. Also aware that I may be I'm SOL.
(I attempted searching this thread for other posts mentioning this, but keyword searching is only so helpful. Not looking for a pile-on, as I've now learned my lesson, just searching for helpful, genuine advice)
I had this happen once. My theory was the screw turner didn’t get the screws down tight enough. Started, got distracted and forgot the heel wasn’t down. I stepped in and the brake felt a bit loose but didn’t think much of it. I shortly thereafter went for a ride hammering a traverse step down at high speed - but also didn’t lose the ski. The screw turner, after trying to accuse me of having done something wrong, agreed to get his boss involved who quickly offered to epoxy+helicoil the heel back on. Not sure I got the most I could have but I was traveling and wanted to ski the next day.
Shortly after blowing up, hiking out of a deep bowl and taking a mid mountain chair down, the liftie at the bottom said “that is why you ski Look”. They were Salomon.
Tech at the mountain shop let me borrow a demo ski of the same model when he saw what happened. Unaffiliated shop, which I thought was cool.
At a minimum they should stick the heel back on.
Uno mas
what's orange and looks good on hippies?
fire
rails are for trains
If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.
www.theguideshut.ca
you want to use the same hole that you had plugged with the BBQ sqewer is what i read ?
they ain't coming out but getting the holes in might be a more of a chore so I would centerpunch the sqewer with a good sharp punch ( I use a 4" DW screw ) then with the smallest bit in my set I havent broken yet drill a pilot hole in the squewer, then drill the screw hole and i think it would work
OR put the new holes 1cm away
BTW, that BBQ squewer was my idea one dark and stormy night
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Some additional context and photos: Not K2 skis, they are the HL comp-build metal laminate R120 made in the Blossom factory in Italy. (The pink ones) Probably 15-20 days on the skis, some last season, my 5th day on 'em this season. Had been on a week-long ski trip and got lucky that this happened on the final afternoon of our trip. Right after lunch, we were on a an easy warm-up run. I was skiing the edge of a groomed run, soft packed powder. Not skiing fast, came over a small roller, hooked my right tip on a right-footed turn, ski caught in the snow, I went head-over-heels, popped back up and saw my binding tumbling down the hill. Got lucky and another person in my group tracked my ski (now brake-less) shoot off into some bushes.![]()
I think I'm getting better at doing cast mounts. Stoked on how these came out. Thanks SFB for the sick binders!!!
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That binding pull out is quite surprising on an HL ski... They are you quite literally the most difficult ski I have ever tried to seat a screw into. I have a hard time imagining them pulling out.
Some questions that are not judgements...
Did you mount them yourself or a shop?
Do you know what bit size they used? Did they tap?
The best guess I would have right now would be that the cores are so dense that the binding was not actually snugged right down to the topsheet...and play = weak.
Even with lesser cores, I have stopped guaging how hard to tighten a screw based on difficulty to tighted... I push down hard and keep going until the baseplate of the binding is flush with the ski.
But I'm just guessing here.
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Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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