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  1. #4951
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,720
    Drilled into a pair of brand new skis for the first time in many years but I think it was my most accurate mount to date.

    I tried the pictured method for finding the centerline and it was definitely the quickest and most accurate way I’ve ever tried. I know it’s been posted here before but highly recommend trying it if you haven’t yet




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  2. #4952
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,844
    Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #4953
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  4. #4954
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,864
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished
    You need a 8mm hole saw. It will bridge around the broken screw and be the right size for a tap-in inset.
    Here is the "proper" tool from Tonger for $30:
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    https://www.tognar.com/hollow-core-drill-bit/


    The only difference between the above "proper" tool, and a cheap $6.00 one from Amazon is that its collar fits in a ski jig.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then just tap in a brass or plastic inset.

  5. #4955
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,711
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    One the shops I worked at had a stholi (I think) hallow bit that went over the broken screw and over bored the hole to the size of the little plastic tap in plugs… Google got me no where trying to find a pic.

    Edit: Well fuck there it is above me ��
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  6. #4956
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,864
    Google "5/16 hallow screw extraction bit" to get the cheap option you're looking for.
    Because 5/16 = 0.3125" = 7.9375mm

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  7. #4957
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    you could go all holly wood OR just measure 1/2 " ether way from each screw, drill more mounting holes for the remount or some fucking thing like that
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #4958
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can’t go wrong this way!

  9. #4959
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    2,729
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    can we get more info on the blue plastic dinosaur?

  10. #4960
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,063
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    You're in the right track. Definitely try this before what Hubbs is suggesting. Removed many a broken screw this way. A used cutoff wheel will have a smaller footprint. Meaning a smaller diameter cutoff wheel will cut less into the periphery(your top sheet) around the screw shaft(depending on the level the screw shaft broke). Grinding the slot should heat the shaft to break the bond. Also, use a non fiber reinforced cutoff wheel, it will leave a skinnier kerf.
    If it doesn't work, do as Hubbs suggests or remount
    Last edited by tuco; 10-16-2021 at 09:09 AM.

  11. #4961
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    Dremel for the win. I used a very small diamond burr and carefully cut a derp slot in the screw but not all the way to the outside diameter of the screw. Applied heat, and it backed out.

    I have the hollow bit for drilling over the screw but didn’t want to put an inset in if I didn’t have too.

    I figure the screw must have had a flaw in it, it was new last season when I mounted them, no corrosion or anything on any of the screws.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  12. #4962
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Often I don't know who mounted the binding or what glue they used so yeah heat for the win BEFORE the head breaks off or is stripped at the very first sign I got a problem

    I often forget this,
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #4963
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,818

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    forget what?
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  14. #4964
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,698
    Exactly

  15. #4965
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    wtf do you think ?

    use heat before I break or strip a screw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #4966
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,281
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    wtf do you think ?

    use heat before I break or strip a screw
    I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk

  17. #4967
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
    I've dealt with a few screws that wouldn't budge, some I remembered to try the heat which worked and heat has always worked, some I forgot about the heat and stripped the head said oh fuck i should have tried heat

    But I have never dealt with a helicoil and I always use FG & slow set to fix spinners as opposed to a helicoil

    I am not sure about using heat on a helicoil becuz I am not sure if the screw would come out of the helicoil OR the heli coil would come out of the ski ?

    BUT if it got to that point the screw was stuck you would need to try something probably heat, obviously if you don't know there is a heli coil in the ski you would be doing it anyway
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #4968
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
    Posts
    2,200
    Here’s the mount of the day 10/16/21….saved it for the last this afternoon:

    First Meier mount at the shop here in NEPA…
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  19. #4969
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,844
    Annual mount and wax party -- one of the few annual rituals I really care for.

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  20. #4970
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    5,522
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
    Took me way too long to realize your soldering iron wasn’t powered by an gas engine. Pictured you yanking on a cord to start that thing up!

  21. #4971
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,281
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Took me way too long to realize your soldering iron wasn’t powered by an gas engine. Pictured you yanking on a cord to start that thing up!
    Ya I had the coal-fired steam engine model at first, really liked it, but I found it difficult to source bituminous coal when travelling, so I upgraded to the gas one.

    I should have called it a butane soldering torch, that would have been far less confusing

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk

  22. #4972
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    Drilled into a pair of brand new skis for the first time in many years but I think it was my most accurate mount to date.

    I tried the pictured method for finding the centerline and it was definitely the quickest and most accurate way I’ve ever tried. I know it’s been posted here before but highly recommend trying it if you haven’t yet




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Radical cakes. I'm filing this away for the next mount. Much appreciated for the share.

  23. #4973
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,720
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig View Post
    Radical cakes. I'm filing this away for the next mount. Much appreciated for the share.
    I'm def not the pioneer of this method but you will not be disappointed! One accompanying tip is that a lot of calipers have an indentation where the arm meets the ruler part as you can see in the picture. If you put the ruler part up snug on the ski base the edge will often go into the indentation and not sit flat on the caliper arm, thus making the measurement off the sidewall and not the ski edge (which is probably still fine). I remedied this by taping a shim to the underside of the calipers so I could rest it flat on the ski base and get the arms flush on the edges. Just make sure the shim is straight. I can send a pic if that explanation made no sense...
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  24. #4974
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,853
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    I'm def not the pioneer of this method but you will not be disappointed! One accompanying tip is that a lot of calipers have an indentation where the arm meets the ruler part as you can see in the picture. If you put the ruler part up snug on the ski base the edge will often go into the indentation and not sit flat on the caliper arm, thus making the measurement off the sidewall and not the ski edge (which is probably still fine). I remedied this by taping a shim to the underside of the calipers so I could rest it flat on the ski base and get the arms flush on the edges. Just make sure the shim is straight. I can send a pic if that explanation made no sense...
    Here's the source of the concept: "Finding Your Ski’s Centerline"

    Magnets offer lots of possibilities like using calipers to gauge the centerline (and checking bevel angles)....as long as you double check everything. In this approach, if your edges aren't an exact mirror of each other relative to the base, you could introduce a slight offset:

    Find center:



    Check center mark relative to one edge, then the other and adjust the mark:





    Another thing to keep in mind, is that the farther apart your two centerline marks are from each other, the less the potential margin of error when you draw a centerline. I use at least a 4' straight edge. You can use string or wire as long as your ski tops if you want for more distance.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  25. #4975
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    679
    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    I'll report back once I've got it mounted up, I think -1cm will be fine for these. I'll be stoked if I get more than a few days in on them this season anyhow so I'm not sweating it, just wanted to be sure I wasn't about to make some unforeseen error. Thanks guys.
    Quoting myself here - same skis but new questions. Pulled the toe off to plug the holes and re-mount it back 2cm and found that one ski seemed to be mounted OK, one mounted absolutely abhorrently. I am surprised the toe didn't rip out...which I guess confirms that these probably only had 1 day on them like the seller claimed. No epoxy or wood glue in anything.

    I want to pull the heels off to check that the mounts for those aren't somehow screwed up also - safe to remount into the same holes there?

    For the toe that's OK I went ahead and plugged the holes with plastic plugs and epoxy. For the toe that's a mess I am planning on putting a plug + epoxy into the holes and injecting epoxy with a syringe into the extra holes. I'll still have more than 1cm from any other hole with the remount. Seem like an OK plan?

    And yes, all of the wood shavings in the picture were just trapped under the binding.


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