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  1. #4201
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    that was the point, to be funny

    i know you are not actualy black

    I'm not a ski tech and I don't wanabe

    I supose one can just load the skis in the lexus and run them down to the ski store

    Or i can tell them how to fix a spinner with what they got lying around

    51 what ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #4202
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    448
    Quote Originally Posted by ~mikey b View Post
    might give it a go if I’m ever near a place that does it
    I phantomed my touring skis, it’s easy to do yourself in the CA sunshine. Surprisingly slippery.

  3. #4203
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,818
    I’ll try a pair.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  4. #4204
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,384
    First time mounting skis with metal in it (mindbender 108ti). They're a friends first pair of new skis so I want to extra make sure I get it right. Couple things I'd like to verify...

    I'm going to use a 3.6mm bit. I know you're supposed to use a 4.1 for metal skis but if I tap there shouldn't be a problem right?

    I currently don't have a tap guide, is it fine if I make one out of a 2x4? Or don't use one?

    Otherwise everything is same as a non-metal ski I'm assuming.

  5. #4205
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    I currently don't have a tap guide, is it fine if I make one out of a 2x4? Or don't use one?
    for screws, vertical is not so critical [yes for inserts tho i'm sure some here have freehanded them]
    don't get me wrong; be careful
    but a drill/tap guide isn't essential

    i use one cuz i have one & i'm anal, but not reqd at all



    i'd spring for the 4.1 (again cuz i'm anal), but I imagine yer not gonna die

  6. #4206
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    People's Republic of MN
    Posts
    5,755
    I'll be adding some Ripstick 88's which I will fucking mount on my own, but here's the 2020-21 quiver so far....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gravity. It's the law.

  7. #4207
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,384
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    First time mounting skis with metal in it (mindbender 108ti). They're a friends first pair of new skis so I want to extra make sure I get it right. Couple things I'd like to verify...

    I'm going to use a 3.6mm bit. I know you're supposed to use a 4.1 for metal skis but if I tap there shouldn't be a problem right?

    I currently don't have a tap guide, is it fine if I make one out of a 2x4? Or don't use one?

    Otherwise everything is same as a non-metal ski I'm assuming.
    Turns out the tap I have is for inserts. SVST is sold out of the 4.1mm tap. Any chance home depot carries this tap?

  8. #4208
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282

  9. #4209
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,384
    Thanks, I know that's what I'm looking for but I was hoping to mount the bindings tonight, looks like that's not going to happen though

  10. #4210
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    448
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    First time mounting skis with metal in it (mindbender 108ti). They're a friends first pair of new skis so I want to extra make sure I get it right. Couple things I'd like to verify...

    I'm going to use a 3.6mm bit. I know you're supposed to use a 4.1 for metal skis but if I tap there shouldn't be a problem right?

    I currently don't have a tap guide, is it fine if I make one out of a 2x4? Or don't use one?

    Otherwise everything is same as a non-metal ski I'm assuming.
    I’ll second the “you’ll live”. I only drill 3.6mm and always tap freehand, never had a spinner and qualitatively the screws sink in and tighten up consistently across all cores/laminates.

  11. #4211
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    The reason for the 4.1mm drill in metal (or thick carbon) ski is the root diameter of the screw threads (the "shaft"). In a non-metal ski, it's fine for the hole to be a little smaller than the root diameter of the screw, since the material can compress a bit around the screw root. Even if you tap a 3.6mm hole in a metal ski, the screw threads will fit fine but the root may have a hard time stretching the too-small hole larger, stressing the metal around the hole.

    But you won't die, it just won't be an easy fit.

  12. #4212
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    459
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Mounted pivots onto some fucking skis and the arms have contact on the ski boot as shown.

    Don't worry and drink another beer or fire up the angle grinder and make some room on the boot?
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    I have 3 setups with pivots and they all touch the arms with both pair of boots I have. I swear I recently stumbled upon some literature for pivot/fks that showed there was supposed to be contact there, but I can't find it again so I could be mistaken. Don't grind your boots.
    Found it here
    Couple relevant screen shots. Mentions twice that the arms are designed as a contact point.

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  13. #4213
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Base of LCC
    Posts
    1,622
    Now that I have to subtract 1 on the DIN scale I took off these and put on these. Still rocking. #sally #STH #greenspring #mismatched #pocketrocket

    Thinking about taking the mismatched 9-16 / 14 -20's up to the national ability center for one of those sit skis.



    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by F#*k You Cat; 12-05-2020 at 06:15 PM.

  14. #4214
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,446
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    Found it here
    Couple relevant screen shots. Mentions twice that the arms are designed as a contact point.

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    Thank you! Now putting away the angle grinder and grabbing another beer.

  15. #4215
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    207
    Is there a more common tap that can be found locally at a hardware store that will suffice? Just drilled my first pair of metal skis and don't want to spend 30+ ship.

    Or should I just screw em in? Am I going to die?

    Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk

  16. #4216
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,578
    As has been noted many times, most retail shops don’t tap when they mount, likely because it takes more time than the very rare spinner they are properly equipped to handle.

    Use the 4.1 for metal. Screw it in. You’re not gonna die.

  17. #4217
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,864
    Quote Originally Posted by F#*k You Cat View Post
    Now that I have to subtract 1 on the DIN scale I took off these and put on these. Still rocking. #sally #STH #greenspring #mismatched #pocketrocket

    Thinking about taking the mismatched 9-16 / 14 -20's up to the national ability center for one of those sit skis.
    Under 9 or over 55?

  18. #4218
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    9,952
    I never tap, zero issues not dead yet. Still plenty of time tho..

  19. #4219
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    83
    Motel Mattress Monoski Mount


    Last edited by makimono; 12-06-2020 at 10:03 PM.
    DUMB N DANGEROUS

  20. #4220
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,384
    Had a few too many beverages and looks like I didn't do a good job finding center. These are my low tide/early season/getting towed behind the pickup skis and they've had 3.5 mounts already so I'm not remounting them. The left side measures 1" edge to binding and the right measures 1-1/8" edge to binding, so 1/16" off from center. Do you think it'll be noticeable when skiing? Is it enough to mess with the performance of the binding?

    How do you guys find center? I currently use a centering ruler but obviously that's not doing well for me. I was going to buy a centering tool from slidewright but he was sold out. To me this seems to be the hardest part. Suggestions?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  21. #4221
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,698
    I would be shocked if you can notice that small amount of difference.

  22. #4222
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    How do you guys find center? I currently use a centering ruler but obviously that's not doing well for me. I was going to buy a centering tool from slidewright but he was sold out. To me this seems to be the hardest part. Suggestions?
    I have a 36” alum ruler (it flexes along the length & still provide a straight line)
    i set lines 18” down & up from boot center on the ski to extend the distance for a centerline down the ski.
    At those spots, I use the slidewright sticker on a steel straight edge to get center
    Then, over a piece of tape, I draw the centerline to get the intersection with not just boot center but also with the ends of the toe & heel paper templates

    longer line = more accurate center

    the part that gets eyeballed is the placement and rotation of the short centering ruler to find center at the ends of the line - that seems like a reasonable spot for an eyeball measure given that we cant just set a square against the sidewall

  23. #4223
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,923
    1/16 is 1.5mm, that means you were off my 0.75mm to one side, which could fully have happened during the drilling part. Even using a jig will give you variation like that.

  24. #4224
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,384
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    I would be shocked if you can notice that small amount of difference.
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    1/16 is 1.5mm, that means you were off my 0.75mm to one side, which could fully have happened during the drilling part. Even using a jig will give you variation like that.
    Thanks, good to hear. Looks like I just need to tone down the perfectionist hah.

    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    I have a 36” alum ruler (it flexes along the length & still provide a straight line)
    i set lines 18” down & up from boot center on the ski to extend the distance for a centerline down the ski.
    At those spots, I use the slidewright sticker on a steel straight edge to get center
    Then, over a piece of tape, I draw the centerline to get the intersection with not just boot center but also with the ends of the toe & heel paper templates

    longer line = more accurate center

    the part that gets eyeballed is the placement and rotation of the short centering ruler to find center at the ends of the line - that seems like a reasonable spot for an eyeball measure given that we cant just set a square against the sidewall
    This is more or less the technique I use. Thanks for the verification.

  25. #4225
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,845
    I've made it a policy never to measure my shit after unless something looks noticeably off from 6' (my height) away. The only exception being heel pin alignment on tech bindings.

    There's a lot more wrong with my skiing than 1/16th of an inch.

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