Page 127 of 143 FirstFirst ... 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 ... LastLast
Results 3,151 to 3,175 of 3575
  1. #3151
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,362

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    I feel like the to tap vs no need to tap debate has gone around this merry go Ďround a few times.
    Uno mas

  2. #3152
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,368
    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    I always tap. Zeno's tests consistently held that pre-tapped screws have better pullout strength. Also, tapping gives you a more consistent feel of the minimum torque needed to turn the screw home, i.e., better than using the screw to self-tap, thus -- if done right -- tapping can virtually eliminate risk of a spinner. And, if you use epoxy, tapping might make make the ski core more receptive for the epoxy.
    Another in the the "always tap" camp (titanal or no), though I never did when I was a tech. Most techs I know also don't use 2-part epoxy or tighten screws by hand, either. Time is money.

    I'm convinced the top laminate layers are stronger when you cut the perfect shape for the screw and it slides in smoothly than when you just ram the screw in with no prep and there's stress on the screw hole.

  3. #3153
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    327
    Well tapping didn't take much effort and it was cool to feel the screws just thread right in. I think I'll tap from now on unless I'm really pressed for time for some reason.

    I threw some Shifts on old Candides to try them out...mostly resort duty with the occasional short tour.

    Name:  factions.jpg
Views: 327
Size:  102.8 KB

  4. #3154
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,368
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Well tapping didn't take much effort and it was cool to feel the screws just thread right in. I think I'll tap from now on unless I'm really pressed for time for some reason.
    I've been doing it for decades and have yet to find the occasion when I have insufficient time to tap my own skis. Just remember to stop as soon as you feel slight resistance or you will dimple the base of the ski.

  5. #3155
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    327
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    I've been doing it for decades and have yet to find the occasion when I have insufficient time to tap my own skis. Just remember to stop as soon as you feel slight resistance or you will dimple the base of the ski.
    Totally, the feeling of bottoming out was really subtle.

    And ya, it didn't take much time or effort at all. Worth the $30 and 5 minutes.

  6. #3156
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,261
    When you tap everything do you only drill w 4.1 bits?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  7. #3157
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,838
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    When you tap everything do you only drill w 4.1 bits?
    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    To reiterate some FAQ's, including your question:

    • By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions. If there are no drill sizes provided on the ski (ie, custom skis), contacting the manufacturer for their recommendations is your best course of action. If unsure, drill with 3.5mm diameter tip. If metal is present, then use a 4.1mm bit.
    • The general rule on alpine ski drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
    • The outside diameter of an alpine screw thread is just over 5mm. The inside diameter of the screw thread (shank) is just over 4mm which matches the tip of a 4.1 diameter bit. Softer materials such as wood or plastic will compress when driving a screw into a 3.5mm hole. Non-compressible materials like metal and carbon should be drilled with the larger diameter, 4.1mm hole so the shank does not compress and damage the material while being driven into the ski.
    • Binding Freedom & Quiver Killer stainless steel inserts & heli-coils require a 1/4" tipped bit.
    • The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
    • It is better to err towards a longer tip than one shorter than the embedded screw section length so the bindings can lay tight to the ski.
    • Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    • The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.
    • Tapping skis with metal and carbon top sheets using a 12AB tap is highly recommended. Tapping all holes regardless of topsheet type or drill tip diameter is recommended. The same tap works for 3.5mm & 4.1mm diameter holes.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
    New! SkiScribe Centering Tool

  8. #3158
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    326
    Got my homemade jig put together. Is it silly overkill? Definitely. Was it fun to build? Yep.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20191212_172143.jpg 
Views:	134 
Size:	147.5 KB 
ID:	305954

  9. #3159
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    12,454
    lets see a demo of that thing

  10. #3160
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,362

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    What kinda of range does that thing have? I am not seeing how you factor in, well, anything other than what appear to be pivot holes. I am not questioning its integrity. Just curious.
    Uno mas

  11. #3161
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    326
    The screws in the bottom corners move the pins that clamp the ski in and out. They're a RH and LH Acme thread rod coupled together, so they hold the ski on the centerline.

    And yeah, I've only made plates for Pivots so far. I'll make more for other bindings when I get around to it. They're held down with the brass thumb screws, so they're adjustable for BSL and removable/swappable easily.

  12. #3162
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,362

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    But how do you know where to set the heel and toe plates in relation to the center line for the specific bsl youíre mounting?
    Just not seeing any measurement markings.
    Iíve mounted like 50 skis, just never used a jig just assumed all setting off bsl. They seem to have lines and such.
    Uno mas

  13. #3163
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    326
    Clamp the ski in the jig. Put the plates in (loose). Put the boot on the plates, move the boot so it's wherever you want it relative to the ski, butt the pins that are sticking up out of the plates against the ends of the boot. Tighten down. Done.

  14. #3164
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,362

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Gotcha. I was sorta lost on the whole get up but all making sense now. Pretty cool if you hammer out a ton of pivot mounts.
    Uno mas

  15. #3165
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    326
    I've got a couple to do right now, but not really that many. I've survived this long doing paper templates, and could have indefinitely just fine. This was mostly just a fun shoulder season project just for the hell of it.

    Now that I've got the main jig done up, it's easy to make more plates for other bindings. I'll do that as I need 'em.

  16. #3166
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,399
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Got my homemade jig put together. Is it silly overkill? Definitely. Was it fun to build? Yep.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20191212_172143.jpg 
Views:	134 
Size:	147.5 KB 
ID:	305954
    Good work. Good taste.

  17. #3167
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    3,635
    Just a reminder to all about 3M 5200 Marine Glue.

    Itís the shit for virgin holes.

    All you guys having to use soldering irons and impacts to get screws out because you used some crazy epoxy... way overkill! Only epoxy if you are dealing with a spinner, insert, helicoil, etc.... everything else gets 5200. Slips right in. Stays in. Screws right out a few seasons later when you want it to...

    Some genius here found that glue, early in this thread. Truly the best.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  18. #3168
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,399
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Just a reminder to all about 3M 5200 Marine Glue.

    Only epoxy if you are dealing with a spinner, insert, helicoil, etc....
    Or Pure Carbon

  19. #3169
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    242
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Got my homemade jig put together. Is it silly overkill? Definitely. Was it fun to build? Yep.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20191212_172143.jpg 
Views:	134 
Size:	147.5 KB 
ID:	305954
    That's amazing. How many lbs of aluminum went into that beautiful thing? Did you have to reinforce your workbench to use it?

  20. #3170
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,101
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Just a reminder to all about 3M 5200 Marine Glue
    Good stuff, IME much better than wood glue. I used it for numerous mounts. An issue: it cakes on the screw like mad, which is fine for a permanent mount, but a PITA if you want to remove the reuse the screw.

    I switched back to epoxy. For touring mounts, I remove and wipe the screw after the epoxy sets but before cure, which allows a clean screw to be extracted without heat. I do that because I want the ability to remove and reuse a clean screw if there's an issue in the field.

  21. #3171
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,904
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Got my homemade jig put together. Is it silly overkill? Definitely. Was it fun to build? Yep.
    very rad.

  22. #3172
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by mrkbrnblm View Post
    That's amazing. How many lbs of aluminum went into that beautiful thing? Did you have to reinforce your workbench to use it?
    I haven't weighed it, but it's not that heavy. Maybe 12lb or so.

  23. #3173
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,076
    We skied some new pow yesterday in low tide conditions and buddy lost a toe piece after hitting some logs n shit. Managed to strap the boot to the ski with 3 longest voile straps and he "Terry Foxed" it out no problem, today there will be a run on long voile straps at the ski store
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #3174
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    The Dirty E
    Posts
    794
    So, I did a mount last night on some Icelantics with Shifts. I got a spinner on one of the little aluminum toe nubbins. Pulled the screw out, did a 75% fiberglass 25% epoxy mix, shoved that in the hole, and then threaded the screw in until flush, no tightening.

    I've been reading about Shifts and how this is a fairly heavily loaded screw. Should I pull this out and insert it? Will I die?

  25. #3175
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,076
    That's what I do for spinners , I would let it cure a couple days , if you can crank the screw down like you wood screwing it into wood

    What's the difference ?
    Last edited by XXX-er; 12-13-2019 at 09:23 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •