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  1. #3101
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    the Low Sierra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Same as alpine mounts. The Nords use longer screws and 14mm bits.....because they can.
    Iíve got a few things I need to order for my helping friendly box.




    Iím deep into scraping summer wax off all of this.....


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  2. #3102
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    Nov 2006
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    NCW
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    2,389
    Summer wax on a rental fleet? Wow.

  3. #3103
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~mikey b View Post
    I’ve got a few things I need to order for my helping friendly box.

    I’m deep into scraping summer wax off all of this.....Click image for larger version. 

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    This is why I HIGHLY recommend store skis with the likely wax you'll ski on the next season. It'll save everyone twice the cost, material, time and effort. Dont put it on thick either. Basically, brush and go skiing. Light re-waxing if needed.

    At six pack per row=you'll need a pony keg.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-05-2019 at 08:24 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  4. #3104
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
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    7,666
    Storage wax on rental xc skis? Dang.

  5. #3105
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    12,415
    yeah itís a little silly because so many of these have extruded bases

    it wasnít my call I just got stuck with it - the kid that did it just doesnít know any better

    and he really laid the wax on thick



  6. #3106
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    No longer Alexandria, VA
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    1,521
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I'm sure the Belgian Tripel I was pouring down my gullet didn't help though.
    Sounds like you're doing it right, no worries on a mangled screw if this is your approach.

  7. #3107
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    SLC
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    1,245
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    Sounds like you're doing it right, no worries on a mangled screw if this is your approach.
    One mangled screw and several Albions & packs of Hardman orange later, I mounted a small family of Down skis:

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    The big guys in the back are a remount to deal with a shifted topsheet, the center line was at +1.5 cm forward. I moved the toe pieces back 4 cm so I could reuse 2 out 4 holes and go to -2.5 cm. I also added a shim since the pin delta on those Speed Turns is so large.
    The other mounts are fresh. It's always a treat to deal with non adjustable bindings and their precise heel gaps... The Plum Oazo heel doesn't have a template so I made my own, I can share it, it's not as refined as the ones found in this thread (missing the fore-aft BSL measurements to align with the centerline) but it works in combination with the Plum Race toe templates uphtread which gives the correct toe placement.

  8. #3108
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    49
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Swapped some bindings, did some mental math, agonized over 1/32", and mounted some skis.

  9. #3109
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    12,415
    I mounted my own fucking skis today.

  10. #3110
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    The Dirty E
    Posts
    793
    Did some fucking ski mounting last night

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  11. #3111
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    Jan 2009
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    SLC
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    1,245
    Drill press makes the whole process so much better...

  12. #3112
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    350
    I have a question a a shop mount that I think needs to be reworked:

    Front piece of my G3 Ions is moving a bit (like .5mm) around on the ski (dps 120s pure3) and does not sit really flush with the top. The other ski is solid.

    So my first impulse was to crank down the screws but I think maybe some glue or whatever might losen while doing so... I really want to keep the position as it is already 2nd mount and the other ski is solid therefore I am asking for advice here before fucking it up.

    So what should I do? Tighten the screws or additional / different action?

  13. #3113
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    I have a question a a shop mount that I think needs to be reworked:

    Front piece of my G3 Ions is moving a bit (like .5mm) around on the ski (dps 120s pure3) and does not sit really flush with the top. The other ski is solid.

    So my first impulse was to crank down the screws but I think maybe some glue or whatever might losen while doing so... I really want to keep the position as it is already 2nd mount and the other ski is solid therefore I am asking for advice here before fucking it up.

    So what should I do? Tighten the screws or additional / different action?
    FTR, binding 'glue' is actually a screw hole sealant and does not hold the screw and binding to the ski. The screw is the mechanical fastening to the ski. So cranking down will let you know if you can crank it further or you have a spinner. If a spinner, nylon inserts are one option, as are stainless steel inserts or helicoils.

    BUT! I'd consider removing the toe piece first instead of just cranking it down so I could inspect what was going on. Maybe the hole wasn't deep enough and drilling a little deeper might be needed. If true and you cranked it down, you could dimple the base.

    If the screws are epoxied (which is not typical for shop mounts AFAIK), then heating the screw with a soldering iron will soften the epoxy.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  14. #3114
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    Dec 2012
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    9,764
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Drill press makes the whole process so much better...
    And yet more complicated than it needs to be.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  15. #3115
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    18,995
    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    I have a question a a shop mount that I think needs to be reworked:

    Front piece of my G3 Ions is moving a bit (like .5mm) around on the ski (dps 120s pure3) and does not sit really flush with the top. The other ski is solid.

    So my first impulse was to crank down the screws but I think maybe some glue or whatever might losen while doing so... I really want to keep the position as it is already 2nd mount and the other ski is solid therefore I am asking for advice here before fucking it up.?
    Maybe the screw is just loose in which case crank it down with some 24hr epoxy

    or maybe its gona spin in which case I chop up a little fibreglass woven cloth into 1/2 inch lengths, mix well with just enough 24hr epoxy to wet out the fibres ( you want a not too resin rich mix ) cram it into the holes , run the screws all the way in or until they start to spin and let cure for a couple days after that you should be able to crank the screw down

    A few people here have used this method with sucess
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #3116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    And yet more complicated than it needs to be.
    Well, I wouldn't recommend buying a drill press specifically to mount skis but the ability to drill completely vertically and on center is nice. I don't bother with using a center punch if I have a drill press as it's easy to perfectly line up the bit with the template. Without the press I center punch using something fine and pointy but the line thickness on the template means that this "pilot" is sometimes off by a couple 10th of a milliliter. It's hard to spot visually but I drill it becomes clear that the hole is a bit shifted. It's never been an issue with any of my mounts but at times I've had to first fully tighten the 3 screws which align best then put a bit of force on the 4th one which has a bit of an off-center hole.
    The press is also faster if that matters...

  17. #3117
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    Dec 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Well, I wouldn't recommend buying a drill press specifically to mount skis but the ability to drill completely vertically and on center is nice. I don't bother with using a center punch if I have a drill press as it's easy to perfectly line up the bit with the template. Without the press I center punch using something fine and pointy but the line thickness on the template means that this "pilot" is sometimes off by a couple 10th of a milliliter. It's hard to spot visually but I drill it becomes clear that the hole is a bit shifted. It's never been an issue with any of my mounts but at times I've had to first fully tighten the 3 screws which align best then put a bit of force on the 4th one which has a bit of an off-center hole.
    The press is also faster if that matters...
    It's completely unnecessary for a standard non-insert binding screw if you use a real binding bit like the one that chap is using there. But if you got a press go for it. And it's not faster. But even if it was, who cares, are you doing 50 skis in a row?
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  18. #3118
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    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    FTR, binding 'glue' is actually a screw hole sealant and does not hold the screw and binding to the ski. The screw is the mechanical fastening to the ski. So cranking down will let you know if you can crank it further or you have a spinner. If a spinner, nylon inserts are one option, as are stainless steel inserts or helicoils.

    BUT! I'd consider removing the toe piece first instead of just cranking it down so I could inspect what was going on. Maybe the hole wasn't deep enough and drilling a little deeper might be needed. If true and you cranked it down, you could dimple the base.

    If the screws are epoxied (which is not typical for shop mounts AFAIK), then heating the screw with a soldering iron will soften the epoxy.

    Ok this makes sense. Will proceed with care and remove first. I think once the mount was good so the hole should be deep enough. No epoxy in there - but at hand if needed for the repair.
    Thanks!

  19. #3119
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    18,995
    I assume a drill press would be really nice for doing inserts where you really want that hole to be perpendicK you lar to the ski, but I don't have a drill press, i never do inserts and I likely never will

    IME from using a drill press yars ( in HS ) ago a skinny bit will still walk the surface if you don't center punch ... the bit deflects a little
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3120
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    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    It's completely unnecessary for a standard non-insert binding screw if you use a real binding bit like the one that chap is using there. But if you got a press go for it. And it's not faster. But even if it was, who cares, are you doing 50 skis in a row?
    I guess, Smoke 'em if you've got 'em.....but I'd argue, that for me, hand drilling is plenty adequate, far easier, more convenient than setting up a drill press for alpine screw mounts. Same for inserts and a hand drill guide....or not.

    If you are not confident hand drilling, you can easily practice on scrap wood or skis. You aren't building pianos and the margin of error is not only fairly forgiving, but 'tweakable'. The cores have movement and are 'mashable'.

    FTR, If you are thinking that a drill press is absolutely perpendicular to the top sheet in all directions, it technically isn't if there is a change in thickness/curve in the top of the ski.

    The variability in your boots, snow surfaces and skis is far more than fractions of mm's or a few degrees from vertical. Don't sweat the small stuff and trust your natural ability to adapt to those inconsequential variables.....unless you just can't stand it.

    EDIT: Along with a drill press, I have a CNC and CAD software with all the templates. At some point I'll definitely drill a pair of skis purely to try it out as an exercise, not because I think I need that kind of accuracy to drill skis.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  21. #3121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    It's completely unnecessary for a standard non-insert binding screw if you use a real binding bit like the one that chap is using there. But if you got a press go for it. And it's not faster. But even if it was, who cares, are you doing 50 skis in a row?
    So dogmatic... Is there room for personal preference here or is everyone not doing it your way just doing it wrong?

    Unnecessary, yes. Useless, hell no. Faster, yes, in my experience, mostly because I skip the centerpunching step with the press.
    Does speed matter? Nope, as you pointed out I'm not cranking out 50 mounts in a day. But if I can save myself a step I could potentially make a mistake on, I'll take it.
    Does the added accuracy of the press matter? Probably not, as Alpinord pointed out below there are many other variables that affect a mount and getting perfectly centered and vertical holes isn't critical.
    But do I feel better when everything lines up perfectly when I'm mounting non adjustable tech bindings on brand new skis? Yep, and that makes the press worth it when I have access to it.

    Incidentally I've mounted several sets of inserts without a drill press and it's never been an issue, I just had to be super careful. The only time I've really needed the press was to widen an existing screw hole off-center, meaning instead of using the existing hole as a pilot and widening by the same amount in all directions I needed the outer edge of the new hole to line up with that of the old hole. That required a carbide end mill and I'd have hated to deal with that without the press.

  22. #3122
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    Nov 2007
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    Eburg
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    13,080
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    So dogmatic...
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Drill press makes the whole process so much better...
    hmmmmm

  23. #3123
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    Dec 2012
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    9,764
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    So dogmatic... Is there room for personal preference here or is everyone not doing it your way just doing it wrong?
    I'm just preparing you for when the laser and CNC boys show up here and give you drill press fanboys a real shakedown.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  24. #3124
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    The Dirty E
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    793
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    So dogmatic... Is there room for personal preference here or is everyone not doing it your way just doing it wrong?
    FWIW, we were just using it to use it. Have done plenty of skis by hand and it's much quicker that way, but this was just to say we did it. Time handicap at the expense of incrementally more "perfect" holes, which ultimately doesn't matter as others have stated.

    Now, with inserts I always use the press, because I've had bad experiences with a wonky drill/tap which made it impossible to get a screw in the insert.

  25. #3125
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Mid-tomahawk
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I'm just preparing you for when the laser and CNC boys show up here and give you drill press fanboys a real shakedown.
    Unlikely that I'll ever bother, but the super duper overkill mounting jig that I'm making right now because I'm injured and can't ski quite yet is set up to be easily mounted in the vice on a manual mill, with the idea that I could theoretically use that for a hole pattern that I don't bother making mounting plates for.


    Normally I'll just use plates and a hand drill, like a jigarex. The whole enterprise is mostly unnecessary and overkill, but I'm bored.

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