Results 2,701 to 2,725 of 6863
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02-07-2019, 09:08 AM #2701
This is all about splitting hairs. Often good enough is good enough. But like any 'craft', best practices don't hurt and might help doing a better job. They're your skis and your ass and I would expect low probability of a major problem unless you end up with spinners.
Most skis should indicate what diameter is recommended for that ski. I would think that driving a 4.1mm shanked screw into a 3.5mm (or 3.6mm) hole in metal/titanal/carbon and other less 'bendable/compressible material' could contribute to 'volcanoing'. In more 'bendable/compressible material', the screw shank in the ski core of a 3.5mm hole, will compress the material slightly and might even provide more retention.
In woodworking, pre-drilling in hardwood, the bit diameter matches the screw shank. In soft woods, the pre-drill diameter is slightly smaller than the screw shank. Same basic reasoning, I think.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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02-07-2019, 11:38 AM #2702Registered User
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Posts
- 195
Welp, I've been mounting my own fucking skis for years and I've finally managed to fuck one up...
Drilled one heel screw about .5-1mm too far back. I can still get the heelpiece in, but it has to face slightly (a few degrees) to the right to get in with the wonky screw hole.
So when I click in my toes, the heel insert is slightly off from where it should be:
I can still click in no problem (no extra force needed or anything).
Is this going to be an issue? Should I be doing anything about it?
If it makes any difference these are Hagan Core 12s (same binding as ATK Raider) installed with inserts. They've got 30mm of adjustment so I could in theory pull the binding and install again 1cm forward - but I'd rather not start the Swiss cheese already if it isn't going to be an issue!
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02-07-2019, 12:02 PM #2703Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Gaperville, CO
- Posts
- 5,850
Short of testing it on the machine you can't really confirm its not affecting release values. If the Cores use a U-spring, I'd also be wary about flexing the two springs at such different tensions.
This is why most tech mounts recommend really focusing on dialing the heel in perfect, then installing just one toe screw so that you can align the toe piece with the heel.
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02-07-2019, 12:08 PM #2704
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02-07-2019, 12:11 PM #2705
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02-07-2019, 01:02 PM #2706
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02-07-2019, 01:14 PM #2707
It's the Armada 4.1 / 3.5 (thought it was 3.6), a couple options there.
https://www.slidewright.com/alpine--...drill-bits.php
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02-07-2019, 01:18 PM #2708
Yeah, CF is a funny material, which is why I asked, although it was a theoretical question, since everything gets inserts and I have the right bit and tap for that ;-)
I recall reading comments about mis-torqued CF forks on bikes, and the reported failures which got me to thinking about whether 3.6 + tap would stress the CF.
I should pick up a 4.1 bit in case someone asks me to do a conventional (no inserts) mount for them.
... Thom
Sent from my LM-G710VM using TapatalkGalibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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02-07-2019, 01:49 PM #2709
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02-07-2019, 01:59 PM #2710
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02-07-2019, 02:03 PM #2711
@lazyasian, which is crooked the toe or heel? Because from that pic it could be either.
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02-07-2019, 02:33 PM #2712Registered User
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Posts
- 195
Thanks for the responses guys. I'll most likely try them out in some mellower terrain and see what happens. Maybe push forward pressure or release up a notch in an ignorant attempt to even things out.
It's the heel. Toe piece is all in line (it's just the angle of the pic that makes it look off).
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02-07-2019, 04:22 PM #2713Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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02-07-2019, 06:01 PM #2714
Yeah, those step bits are pricey, nice though.
I used standard 5/32 and 9/64 for years with a drill guide which worked pretty well but took a lot more time to set up (but kept me from drilling too deep). I don't even use the guide with my dedicated bit.
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02-09-2019, 03:57 PM #2715self proclaimed JONG!
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
- Location
- Fernie and/or Smithers
- Posts
- 1,488
Can anyone explain the markings on the sidewall of these old straight Volkls?
Seems like they are recommending mounting within this zone. Why the wide range?
The distance between 1 and 12 is about 4cm.
Hmmm.Do what you like, Like what you do.
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02-09-2019, 05:28 PM #2716
When I started mounting my stuff, I put collars on normal drill bits. And while one has never come loose and drilled through a ski, I figured it was only a matter of time. I’m glad I switched. Good peace of mind. If you’re only doing 1 ski, i remember thinking 15 or $20 for a bit was ludicrous. Butttt that was years ago and countless skis since.
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02-09-2019, 06:38 PM #2717Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,040
just drill thru a wine bottle cork and slip the bit in the chuck to leave only enough drill bit to drill your hole
I've had collars and duc-tape slipLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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02-09-2019, 07:01 PM #2718
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02-09-2019, 11:18 PM #2719King potato
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- BC
- Posts
- 1,947
Not sure where to ask this so going in here:
Where are we on turning down dins for the summer?
Skied all day at 7 and was glad I didnt do anything dumb.
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02-10-2019, 12:54 AM #2720one-track mind
- Join Date
- Jul 2004
- Location
- NorCal
- Posts
- 2,285
What I do is...
If the spring cylinder is obviously metal (e.g. 916's have shiny silver spring cylinders in toes and heels), then I don't turn them down for summer.
BUT, if the spring cylinder looks plasticky, then I turn them down until that toe/heel is loose & floppy. Floppy results in zero spring force on the plastic, and floppy means there's no way you will click in without noticing. (E.G. Salomon 997 DIN=14 toes have black plastic cylinder, so YES I turn that down...but the heels on those have metal cylinders, so I don't turn down the heels.)
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02-11-2019, 02:53 PM #2721
Wondering if anyone in the Boston / N. Conway area has or has access to a binding release calibrater.
After years of mounting my own fkn skis I'm curious how some of them would torque test, especially since I am still on a couple pairs of old 997s.
Would love a couple hours with one to test the whole quiver if I could. Mostly out of curiosity, although also safety and whatnot
Happy to provide beer and company if you'll let me play with your tool.
Any takers??
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02-11-2019, 10:46 PM #2722
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02-12-2019, 08:10 AM #2723
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02-12-2019, 08:15 AM #2724
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02-12-2019, 10:15 PM #2725
Just checking in to say that I taught my friend how to mount his own fucking skis and all is right in the world.
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