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  1. #1726
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,905
    Some of you shouldn't be allowed to use power tools but you can just rotate a 3/8th inch bit by hand on a hole or even after you volcano'ed it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #1727
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    129
    Remounting all my sticks with BF inserts for STH. One step closer to the one boot, one (alpine) binding quiver. Still undecided on inserts for my touring skis. Finished with the BGs and SNs. 50% through the Bonafide and just waiting on more inserts to show up in the mail. Installing the inserts was a lot easier than I thought!

  3. #1728
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    1,622
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Some of you shouldn't be allowed to use power tools
    QFT


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #1729
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    350
    how many times can you rip and remount bindings into the existing holes without totally fucking them up?

  5. #1730
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,905
    what does " rip " mean?

    slow set and chopped up FG filler has let me reuse holes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #1731
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    what does " rip " mean?

    slow set and chopped up FG filler has let me reuse holes
    I mean unscrewing the binding from the ski, deftly and carefully. I prefer to use brobrah terms whenever possible.

    Do you mean, fill the hole with slow set epoxy, and then redrill the hole? or just use the slowset when re-screwing in the bindings?

  7. #1732
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    north aspect
    Posts
    32,505
    multiple times in my experience
    bF
    Alpental Indigenous

  8. #1733
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    4,071
    Mix fiberglass with epoxy. Stuff into holes. Mount binding. Let cure. Snug up binding screws in the morning. Tada.

  9. #1734
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,905
    Yup, slow set 2 part epoxy for previously used holes and if the holes are damaged at all chop up FG into 1/2" strands, mix with 2 part and cram it into the screw hole, let cure for 24 hrs
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #1735
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Skiing during your summer
    Posts
    251
    Thanks for all the help, TGR can be a good place haha.

    Gonna use quiverkiller on my skis, they look bomber. Do you need to countersink for the inserts? I will have to anyway due to the already volcanos, but for future reference.

  11. #1736
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by Aus George View Post
    Do you need to countersink for the inserts? I will have to anyway due to the already volcanos, but for future reference.
    Unless the volcano is huge, the larger drill for BF/QK should remove the raised portion. I don't recall ever really countersinking any...I might have chamfered the edge slightly, just to remove any snaggy bits of top sheet etc...

  12. #1737
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    108
    Popped my cherry and mounted my own fucking skis. Got jiggy with it on Pivots, but still..
    Seems like a gateway to moar skis which didnít require any additional motivation.
    Had a minor snafu then a vet mag provided some guidance. Thanks dude!
    Iíd mention him but then yíall might bombard him with your questions.
    Getting close around here for inbounds..

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  13. #1738
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Skiing during your summer
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Popped my cherry and mounted my own fucking skis. Got jiggy with it on Pivots, but still..
    Seems like a gateway to moar skis which didn’t require any additional motivation.
    Had a minor snafu then a vet mag provided some guidance. Thanks dude!
    I’d mention him but then y’all might bombard him with your questions.
    Getting close around here for inbounds..

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    Have any issues with the heel pieces? The yellow looks pretty rad

  14. #1739
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    108
    The heels are a little more challenging but great advice here in the thread explains it well and correctly. After you have ski on elevated surface allowing brakes to be free. Snug up front two screws, then put on brake band to get the rears snug. Then full tight on front, then back. That's what I did anyway..

  15. #1740
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    129
    So I installed inserts on all of my skis no problems, and got started on my wifeís. Of course I messed it up. One of the inserts went too deep and dimpled (tittied, whichever term you prefer) the base. To make it worse, after a few beers last night, I told her I messed up the install - the response was as expected. I laughed, and you can imagine how the rest played out.

    I tried the paper test - cut a hole in the paper around the dimple and laid a ruler on it. Thereís between .5-1mm of wobble.

    Any recommendations?

    Opinions Iím considering:
    - back out the insert, heat dimple, bang the shit out of it, reinstall insert
    - same as above but with helicoil (is this necessary)?
    - leave as is and base grind


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #1741
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    4,113
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    how many times can you rip and remount bindings into the existing holes without totally fucking them up?
    If the skis have metal layers, you're careful to not cross-thread the screws reinstalling them, and you don't over-torque the screws, you could swap bindings on and off an infinite number of times with virtually zero loss of attachment strength. (You can also do this on skis without metal, but you have to be a LOT more careful to not cross-thread or over-torque.) If the binding-free skis will be stored in a humid area, cover the holes with tape to prevent the wood core from absorbing moisture.

    Tip: to help prevent cross threading the screws, drill / cut / file out the little plastic tabs in your binding baseplate holes, so the screws can freely drop into the baseplate holes and spin with zero resistance. These tabs hold the screws in the bindings during shipment, but they made it hard to feel the start of existing threads in your ski and could cause cross-threading. To feel for the start of the threads, slowly turn the screws counter-clockwise with very light downward pressure until you feel the screw drop down into the start of the threads. Then increase downward pressure, and turn clockwise.
    FS: NIB G3 Ion Crampons, all widths
    FS: 1/4" Toe Shims for G3 Ion, aluminum

  17. #1742
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    350
    Mounted my first two skis this past week- mine first with Adrenaline 16s and my girlfriends with F12s.

    I kind fucked up the first adrenaline 16 toe piece so that it is slightly twisted and doesnt track into the heelpiece perfectly when touring leading to a ker-chunk with every step. Functionally, it still tours (although any kind of sidehilling exacerbates the problem), and it locks down and skis with no problems. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Redrilling the poplar ski seems dumb because I would be mounting 3/4s of the way in existing holes...

    Maybe i just use this as a learning experience and remind myself with each step to be much more careful and precise when drilling skis? I feel like normal alpine bindings will be cake.

  18. #1743
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    11,020
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    Mounted my first two skis this past week- mine first with Adrenaline 16s and my girlfriends with F12s.

    I kind fucked up the first adrenaline 16 toe piece so that it is slightly twisted and doesnt track into the heelpiece perfectly when touring leading to a ker-chunk with every step. Functionally, it still tours (although any kind of sidehilling exacerbates the problem), and it locks down and skis with no problems. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?
    Depends on how far out of whack it is. If it's no more than 2-3mm, I would install a ski helicoil, carefully and slowly drilling the new (larger) hole in the proper place with a drill press (or in my case a mill). I've cured several bad mounts this way, including a couple pairs of brand new skis royally screwed up by a shop that they sold for cheap. To the shops' (2 of them) credit, they disclosed the bad mounts. A hand drill won't work because the drill bit will follow the incorrectly positioned hole.

  19. #1744
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    146
    @DIYSteve's advice sounds good.

    One other tip that might help keep the drill from following the initially wrongly drilled hole - is to drill again with a very small bit and step up with one or two more intermediate sizes to the final correct size. [It's, *perhaps*, possible you could do that with a hand-drill, depending on how close it is, IMO. However, a press is, BY FAR, the best option. Vastly better.]

    I'd probably fill the old hole with slow-set epoxy and let it fully harden before doing the new placement. [that will also help, some, in keeping the new placement where it should be, instead of wandering into the old one.] You can include some wood-flour [sawdust essentially] in the epoxy. I use a large gauge [12ga] needle and a syringe to get the epoxy all the way to the bottom of the hole - it's hard to do that with a toothpick. Heat will help. [Like a blow-dryer - or heatgun if you're *careful* not to scorch things.]

    It would look odd, but you could also do a single binding-freedom insert instead of HC, if you had BF stuff handy and not a HC. Even suggesting it bothers me - not sure why.

  20. #1745
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    885
    You could probably get away with just a plastic plug in lieu of epoxy, if following up with a helicoil or insert. Without a drill press, a drill block clamped to the ski should solve the walking issue.

  21. #1746
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    244
    Some proof-of-concept mounts put on today. Planning on making some Vipec-Warden plates a la jondrums original designs. Purely for personal use (for now) because I don't know if that falls under IP problems with (Slidewright?). Threw MTN bindings on the design too because I have some, but the heels have to spaced far back to prevent conflict - good thing they adjust +/-15mm.

    I tried to fit Dynafit Rads on there...yeah no chance with the heel pattern.

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    Now that I know the holes work, gotta finish up the CAD and get manufacturing.

  22. #1747
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,905
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    Mounted my first two skis this past week- mine first with Adrenaline 16s and my girlfriends with F12s.

    I kind fucked up the first adrenaline 16 toe piece so that it is slightly twisted and doesnt track into the heelpiece perfectly when touring leading to a ker-chunk with every step. Functionally, it still tours (although any kind of sidehilling exacerbates the problem), and it locks down and skis with no problems. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Redrilling the poplar ski seems dumb because I would be mounting 3/4s of the way in existing holes...
    .
    this^^ is why I suggest on AT bindings mounting the heel dead center, then mount the toes of AT bindings by ONE screw so the toe piece can pivot to its happy place when you clip the boot on a tech or the frame on a frame binding into the heelpiece of the binding in DH skiing mode

    then you drill or at least mark another hole to drill and now your boot heel or heel piece in the case of a frame binding should be exactly in the middle of where it needs to be because the boot was latched into ski mode when you drilled the second toe piece screw and if you fucked that up you got 2 more screws to instal where you can maybe fix it

    but people don't really get the concept so they just repeat the " OM I wana template" mantra

    drill the holes all at once and wonder why things don't line up ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #1748
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Land of the Long Flat Vowel
    Posts
    601
    Quote Originally Posted by kai_ski View Post
    You could probably get away with just a plastic plug in lieu of epoxy, if following up with a helicoil or insert. Without a drill press, a drill block clamped to the ski should solve the walking issue.
    I can second the drill block idea. I made one out of a piece of bamboo flooring, adding some strips of electrical tape to keep it from sliding when clamping.

  24. #1749
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,219
    Quote Originally Posted by thejongiest View Post
    Some proof-of-concept mounts put on today. Planning on making some Vipec-Warden plates a la jondrums original designs. Purely for personal use (for now) because I don't know if that falls under IP problems with (Slidewright?).
    I'm not sure what you are questioning.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  25. #1750
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Methow Valley
    Posts
    463
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    Mounted my first two skis this past week- mine first with Adrenaline 16s and my girlfriends with F12s.

    I kind fucked up the first adrenaline 16 toe piece so that it is slightly twisted and doesnt track into the heelpiece perfectly when touring leading to a ker-chunk with every step. Functionally, it still tours (although any kind of sidehilling exacerbates the problem), and it locks down and skis with no problems. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Redrilling the poplar ski seems dumb because I would be mounting 3/4s of the way in existing holes...

    Maybe i just use this as a learning experience and remind myself with each step to be much more careful and precise when drilling skis? I feel like normal alpine bindings will be cake.
    I'm not familiar with the Adrenaline but potentially it would work to loosen the toepiece screws and then align the binding in the correct position then tighten visible screws and follow up tightening hidden ones. Alternatively if screws aren't easily accessible try tightening one 99% of the way, then aligning toepiece and tightening the rest w/o changing alignment. Shoot me a pm if you want a better description .

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