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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    ^^Stories like yours are the reason this thread exists.

    Regarding finding the CL of the ski, I thought this was pretty neat. Haven't used it yet though.
    FTR, you can just print the PDF, verify scale, cut at scale lines and use it for the paper method as well. The colored, different length tick marks help with quickly counting the equal distance from the center Lou Dawson mentioned the paper folding method years ago. Just be sure that it stays tight to the surfaces and you crease at the corner of the edges.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-24-2011 at 07:50 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  2. #102
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    Nov 2008
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    Any suggestions for removing old hardened epoxy from previously used binding screws? Soaking the screws in acetone and then using a wire brush removed much of it but there’s still some epoxy embedded in the threads and I assume best results require clean threads?

  3. #103
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    Nov 2010
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    534
    Try heat. Soldering iron held on the screw for awhile usually loosens epoxy enough to peel off pretty easily.

  4. #104
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    Mar 2010
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    Wrong side of Denver
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    612
    ^This

    I use a propane or butane torch to break down the epoxy that holds golf club heads onto shafts (butane is cooler than propane and will not break down the epoxy in graphite shafts).

    I'd hold the screw in a pair of vice grips and torch the screw. If you use propane, the epoxy will break down in less than 30 seconds.
    Last edited by Smoova; 12-25-2011 at 08:00 PM.

  5. #105
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Last time I remounted my FR+ I got the epoxy holding the screws loose by hitting them with the flame from my ronson jetlite AND this bad boy will get any pipe or reefer going no matter how windy the chair is

    http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/...ws/reviews.htm

  6. #106
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    Dec 2004
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    SoOre
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    Mount'em up!
    I love my family. Kids are the best.
    http://www.praxisskis.com

  7. #107
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    Aug 2009
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    Alaska
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    7
    Where are you guys getting your plastics? I've checked every hardware store in town and all I could find were 30x30 sheets at Home Depot for $180.
    I was thinking of finding something around half an inch thick and drilling holes that are the diameter of my ski mounting drill bit. That way I can get jig-like vertical alignment as well. Seems like it would work, in theory...

    Otherwise, has anybody used one of these? Seems like a handy tool to have; ultra portable.
    http://www.slidewright.com/svst-cust...j.html?cat=132

  8. #108
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    Jan 2004
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    the Low Sierra
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    I mounted my own fucking skis today in the parking lot of the RV shop while I was having my camper worked on. Now I have power, so I can mount and wax more fucking skis in parking lots all over the place.

    Pour boiling water on the bindings. Epoxy will soften.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slandis View Post
    Where are you guys getting your plastics? I've checked every hardware store in town and all I could find were 30x30 sheets at Home Depot for $180.
    I was thinking of finding something around half an inch thick and drilling holes that are the diameter of my ski mounting drill bit. That way I can get jig-like vertical alignment as well. Seems like it would work, in theory...

    Otherwise, has anybody used one of these? Seems like a handy tool to have; ultra portable.
    http://www.slidewright.com/svst-cust...j.html?cat=132
    what you really need more than anything is a depth guage and for the thickness you need drilling a hole thru the top of a wine bottle cork works pretty well

  10. #110
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    Live Free or Die
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    2,094
    I mounted my buddies fucking skis last night. I need to buy some more fucking Roo Glue
    Dollar sign that bitch.

  11. #111
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    Alaska
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    what you really need more than anything is a depth guage and for the thickness you need drilling a hole thru the top of a wine bottle cork works pretty well
    I have a ski shop drill bit...depth gauge not needed. I essentially want a solid (plastic) version of my paper jig...

    But anyways, I found the plastic. Now I just need to find somebody who owns a saw (fucking nobody in college does).

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slandis View Post
    But anyways, I found the plastic.
    For another source or others of interest, Mcmaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#) and online metals (http://www.onlinemetals.com/) have pretty reasonably priced stuff and can be cut to order.

  13. #113
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    Dec 2009
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    43-8 Cascadia
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    Just got done installing my phuckin' inserts today...

    fronts for Barons (sm) and Jester Demos.. sharing the foward two effin' inserts

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    the tail mounts have every bit as much fkn room between inserts (mounted at 315mm for the demos.. and just happens to be my bsl)

    thanks to Jondrums, Puderluder & this fukkin forum for all the beta

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    Last edited by BaNosser; 06-15-2012 at 11:56 PM.

  14. #114
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    Feb 2009
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    Boston, MA
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    So I'm going to mount my own fucking skis and I have a few questions. Mounting some dynalooks. I've done two test mounts now and both came out pretty good, but not perfect. I'm consistently give our take about .5 mm off. This is with using the paper template and a drill guide, and triple checking all of my marks with a micrometer.

    Everything seems to line up perfect but then ends up off that tiny amount. Is there anything I can do to increase my accuracy? I know that in the end .5 mm won't matter, but if I can get this number down a little bit more I don't see why I shouldn't.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by bern43 View Post
    So I'm going to mount my own fucking skis and I have a few questions. Mounting some dynalooks. I've done two test mounts now and both came out pretty good, but not perfect. I'm consistently give our take about .5 mm off. This is with using the paper template and a drill guide, and triple checking all of my marks with a micrometer.

    Everything seems to line up perfect but then ends up off that tiny amount. Is there anything I can do to increase my accuracy? I know that in the end .5 mm won't matter, but if I can get this number down a little bit more I don't see why I shouldn't.
    IMO an RCH is within acceptable tolerances and you are good to go with your skis.

    FWIW, I prefer using a super sharp awl to make initial marks by hand through the template vs pounding an initial mark with punch and hammer. I can't say my end results are any better, but it seems like it's the most accurate method for me. If you want to split the RCH's in half, with the lighter, smaller initial mark you can re-measure and then 'cheat' or 'move' a mark if you feel the need, before subsequently punching a better guide mark/hole for setting your guide and drilling.

    Here is our recent Weblog Topic that may help some: Drill and Tap Guides for Hand Drilling
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    I prefer using a super sharp awl to make initial marks by hand through the template vs pounding an initial mark with punch and hammer.
    ^^^This is a good idea, I use an icepick. It's very easy to get "centerpunch drift" on a slick topsheet. I also like to print the templates on clear mylar rather than paper and make the mark right through the template instead of making a pencil mark first.

    What is slightly off, the alignment of the heel slots on the Dynafits? Could be tweakable using a progressive screw tightening, could be the boots - but in any case, .5mm is within my range for an acceptable mount.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    ^^^This is a good idea, I use an icepick. It's very easy to get "centerpunch drift" on a slick topsheet. I also like to print the templates on clear mylar rather than paper and make the mark right through the template instead of making a pencil mark first.

    What is slightly off, the alignment of the heel slots on the Dynafits? Could be tweakable using a progressive screw tightening, could be the boots - but in any case, .5mm is within my range for an acceptable mount.
    The position of the plate is slightly off. The heel slots actually lined up pretty good on both of the test mounts. In both cases they were maybe the tiniest off but slid right to the middle when I let the boot drop in. I was pretty happy with how they both came out considering they were my first attempts. I like the sharp awl idea. Probably use that. On to the actual skis.

  18. #118
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    Nov 2010
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    0.5mm would certainly be acceptable to me too - I've done much worse before I started using a drill guide and they've been fine.

    I'm convinced that even with absolute precision on the paper templates, the punch and use of a drill guide there is an ever so slight bit of drill bit wander that can leave mount (especially dynafiddles) off by about that much.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slandis View Post
    Now I just need to find somebody who owns a saw (fucking nobody in college does).
    Your school doesn't have a machine shop?

  20. #120
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    May 2005
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    Denver, CO
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    409
    There's at least 0.5mm of inaccuracy in any well-used shop jig so I wouldn't get all bent out of shape about it.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcpnz View Post
    I'm convinced that even with absolute precision on the paper templates, the punch and use of a drill guide there is an ever so slight bit of drill bit wander that can leave mount (especially dynafiddles) off by about that much.
    I forgot to mention that using a brad tip drill bit in a guide hole does not wander.

    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  22. #122
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    Jan 2008
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    tree OH TREE!!!!!
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    I fucking mounted my own skis..... and I fucking skied them

  23. #123
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    Feb 2009
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    268
    I mounted my buddy's wife's fuckin' skis the other night but I didn't get to mount his fuckin' wife. Guess I don't have to raise his kids either.........
    "You're young and you got your health, what do you want with a job?"

  24. #124
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    Feb 2009
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    One more silly question. I have a digital caliper. I'd like to use to to double check the middle line, holes, etc. from the edge of the ski. On the practice 2X4 you could just use the top of the 2X4 because there's no taper. Can't do that with an edge. I'm lining up a carpenter's square with the edge and then using the digital caliper to double check. Sort of a pain. Any easier way of doing this?
    Last edited by bern43; 03-19-2012 at 02:05 PM.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by bern43 View Post
    One more silly question. I have a digital caliper. I'd like to use to to double check the middle line, holes, etc. from the edge of the ski. On the practice 2X4 you could just use the top of the 2X4 because there's no taper. Can't do that with an edge. I'm lining up a carpenter's square with the edge and then using the digital caliper to double check. Sort of a pain. Any easier way of doing this?
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    And then there is the simplicity and accuracy of magnets and a true bar to find center:

    Attachment 105058

    ...or calipers and a true bar:

    Attachment 105060
    Establish a reliable centerline and measure equidistant to your marks and holes. Use the longest straight edge (or a string) you have to draw your centerline. The larger the spread from your center line marks, the better.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

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