PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[coach]

I used to do my own mounting when I used to tele full time. Drilled lots of holes into skis to figure out where to mount - ended up always feeling best mounted boot center at the manufacturer's recomendation.

The issue I have is that I'm a bit of a meathead and overtighten the screws - I've stripped a couple of holes now. Ended up doing a temp fix with steel wool and epoxy but what's the easiest way to repair that? I know helicoils have been around forever how do they compare to the bindingfreedom inserts?

Cheers,

Coach

[XXX-er]

if you put masking tape on the ski top you can more easily draw lines or marks wherever you want to, I don't bother with jigs or templates I just layout on the tape with a T-square

[ACHTUNG]

if you put masking tape on the ski top you can more easily draw lines or marks wherever you want to

Why have I never thought to do this? I guess I'm a retard.

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

I just layout on the tape with a T-square

You are aware that skis aren't square right?

[DRZ1050i]

Masking tape/ painter's tape.... two layers so it's more opaque and you can see better.


Use this to find your center line:

[Alpinord]

I used to do my own mounting when I used to tele full time. Drilled lots of holes into skis to figure out where to mount - ended up always feeling best mounted boot center at the manufacturer's recomendation.

The issue I have is that I'm a bit of a meathead and overtighten the screws - I've stripped a couple of holes now. Ended up doing a temp fix with steel wool and epoxy but what's the easiest way to repair that? I know helicoils have been around forever how do they compare to the bindingfreedom inserts?

Cheers,

Coach

Basically, heli-coils and ss inserts can serve the same repair purpose with a 1/4" hole. Alpine heli-coil threads match your alpine binding screws. The ss inserts need M5 screws and have closed bottoms. Each have there own outer thread taps. For only repairs, IMO, it's a coin toss which one to use. For the swapping bindings option, ss inserts are the call.

Edit: forgot to mention nylon and brass tap-ins as the easiest fix with 5/16" holes.

[XXX-er]

You are aware that skis aren't square right?

sure but I think the sidecut of the ski will thro your lines off the most in any case I use the same T-square as in the picture held against the steel ski edges of both sides of the ski for drawing lines referenced to both sides of the ski and the intersection of the 2 lines is "the line"

so taking a recent remount of an FR+ onto a JJ as example, I find my boot center line by measuring from the tails and mark it on both skis

I was able to take a fore-aft measurement for heel piece-to-center line off the old ski which made it easier, mount the heel piece dead center on the ski

get the fore-aft toe piece-to-center line measurment off the old ski, make sure the bar drops into the heel piece nicely fore-aft and mount the toe piece with 1 screw

using the heel piece to locate the toe piece drill the other 3 toe piece holes and thats pretty much it

I usually drill small pilot holes which i chase with the correct size bit so I don't get drill bit walk

Its a VERY slow process but constant checking makes it accurate & frankly drilling all the holes at once with a paper template scares the hell outs me

[that dude who did that thing]

In keeping with the thread, if you want to buy just one drill bit, have adjustable length, and also have a very effective dept collar, I have used and recommend this:



Found here: http://svst.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=D...1-2788838029e1

As I recall it was around $20. I've used a lot of drill bit collars and always hate them. This tool completely reinvents them and is extremely effective. And before someone says it, sure you can use tape on your bit for a depth indicator, that is very effective, and I do it myself when drilling a hole or two. But the tape can slide up your bit over time, especially as the adhesive gets hot from drilling lots of holes. Or your attention can wander (beer has been known to have this effect, as have other depressants sometimes found in garage workshops), and you put a hole through the bottom of your skis. Not a disaster, just a repair, but who wants to be repairing their brand new skis? This tool lets you drill hole after hole after hole and every one will be the right depth.

[XXX-er]

I just drill a hole thru a piece of wood and whatever you leave protruding is how deep you drill

[Knut]

if you want to buy just one drill bit, have adjustable length, and also have a very effective dept collar, I have used and recommend this:

That's an interesting drill bit. Thanks for sharing.
Does it also countersink in one go? And why would one need adjustable drill depth for a binding drill?

But as for that price you can often buy two fixed binding drill bits, I would still go for those. You hardly drill anything different than 9mm deep.

[Bird Blaster]

Well. Did it again on some new skis. This forum is great.

Wtf was I paying for before. This is pretty straight forward (till I fuck it up that is).

[Ivan Oder]

Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?

[Smoova]

Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?

It looks like the heel piece on the left ski is just spun 180 and was mounted correctly, but that toe is pretty impressive. I can't believe that the shop actually let those go out the door. Did you ask any questions when you picked them up?

[Alpinord]

Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?

Just get as stoned as the shop rat and ski 'em. You won't know the difference.

[stizzmt]

Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?

Is this for real? If so its gotta be a first.

[Knut]

Quasi impossible to mount like that with a shop jig. Or did you ask for the holes only and screwed the bindings on yourself?

My fake alert light is blinking feverishly.

[Ivan Oder]

I'm just fucking with you. I installed them myself w/binding inserts and flipped the toe around for the photo. The heel is actually installed properly, just spun around. I saw some advertising photo in a catalog/online where the FKS heel was in this position.

[Patches]

Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.

[jondrums]

^^ you're better as describing that method that I am

[time2clmb]

Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.

That`s exactly what I do. When I have it on the ski I make a little pen mark aswell, and when I put the folded paper strip back on with the middle fold I use that small pen mark as a double check to ensure the paper is back exactly where it was. Once the centreline is in the middle line on the paper template should line up with it perfectly...and then the width marks on the template should all line up as yet another check and sort of a micro tuning check. Yup...it`s redundant but accurate as fuck and really takes no extra time to get it perfect.

[Jethro]

Another thing about finding ski center with a piece of paper or any other means. The further apart your center points are, the more accurate your center line will probably be. I try to use a yardstick length as opposed to a boot sole length for my measurements. If you are 1mm off in a yard, your ski will likely be more in alignment with your boot than if you were off the same 1mm in a boot sole length.

[hutash]

Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.

Fuck that, how can I justify buying a $100 digital micrometer? Don't let your wives read this post.

[UrMomsKneePads]

The paper method should be explained to the joker that mounted my new Prophet 98s. Went to pick them us yesterday and notice the front of the binding at skis edge on left side of the binding, and 6-8mm space to skis edge on right side of binding. He says "let me measure them" I say "good idea".

Shop manager comes back out and says "give me a few days, I'll order you in a new pair". Kudos to the shop for doing the right thing without pushback.

In the case you don't mount your own fucking skis, check the mount fucking closely before leaving the shop.

[auvgeek]

^^Stories like yours are the reason this thread exists.

Regarding finding the CL of the ski, I thought this was pretty neat. Haven't used it yet though.

(What's up with the editor, no options??? Also, the malware warning yet again??) Great input. Thanks. Reading my mind or this thread: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...86#post3094686? I think reliable jigs/guides and layout tools are the biggies. My ole Marples/Record dowel jig isn't available anymore. However, I've got a couple more options that will be available in the very near future. Several ideas in the works as well. We'll see what shakes out. One thing that appears to be a common element on bindings is either there are center holes and/or a pair of holes equidistant from the ski center line. I revised and simplified the Ski Center 'finder' It can be downloaded here: http://www.slidewright.com/resources...nter-ruler.pdf I've been printing this center ruler on adhesive backed paper. Putting it on a true bar/skiver makes for a very handy tool: I absolutely agree with Jon that drilling the holes either by the shop or yourself should ideally be done first before adding the inserts. After test driving the adding inserts step is very straight forward. Vertical accuracy is also more critical than when mounting alpine screws. Drill and tap guides really help.

[Alpinord]

^^Stories like yours are the reason this thread exists.

Regarding finding the CL of the ski, I thought this was pretty neat. Haven't used it yet though.

FTR, you can just print the PDF, verify scale, cut at scale lines and use it for the paper method as well. The colored, different length tick marks help with quickly counting the equal distance from the center Lou Dawson mentioned the paper folding method years ago. Just be sure that it stays tight to the surfaces and you crease at the corner of the edges.