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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Revy
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by sqikunst View Post
    . I still mount dynafits freestyle though.
    why? .

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    32

    mounting location

    i am confused about binding monting loaction. if ball of foot center of running surface center is best base line (even as a base to determine fore / aft locations), why do manufacturers mark center of ski boot instead of ball of foot center? seems like boot center could easily vary loaction of ball of foot 1 - 2cm on ski depending on shell size. here are a couple articles - thanks

    www.lous.ca/Tech%20Articles/BindPosArticle09.pdf

    www.realskiers.com/ski-bindings.htm

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Durango
    Posts
    746
    I also use the folding paper at two points one a little forward of the toe and one a little behind the heal then connect the dots. I Always double check a couple points along the way but it has worked well and pretty accurate. I always double check the templates when they are put on to make sure it is centered by folding over to the edge.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Innsbruck, Austria
    Posts
    718
    We dont have a dyna jig and we usually mount them with a bunch of friends in the work shop. Turns into a beer drinking ski mounting chill session. If we got a jig it would ruin the whole thing.

    We sell probably 2 pairs of dynafits to non-(bros) a season. On the other hand probs 10-15 for friends of the shop. Its wierd but people love to watch or atleast get to help mount their own skis. Being the awesome and gracious family owned that we are we let them fullfill their hearts desires.

    Plus getting something dead on freestyle is pretty fun. And dynafit had redonkulous dealer prices on jigs and what not unless you have a fat cat order.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    2,699
    Alpinelord were do I get one of those stickers? or does it come on the true bar? Yes I am to lazy to search your website but have purchased there before (great place to buy from by the way).

    SFB.... dont you think its weird that there is one bin that has all the other colors mixed???? thats the "color/s" I bought from alpinelord, my holes are plugged with what ever I grab... hehe, swiss cheese bitches.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    Anybody know where I can buy some stuff like plastic plugs, taps etc in canada (online dealer). My local shop doesn't carry any stuff like this.

    thanks

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,219
    Quote Originally Posted by rludes025 View Post
    Alpinelord were do I get one of those stickers? or does it come on the true bar? Yes I am to lazy to search your website but have purchased there before (great place to buy from by the way). SFB.... dont you think its weird that there is one bin that has all the other colors mixed???? thats the "color/s" I bought from alpinelord, my holes are plugged with what ever I grab... hehe, swiss cheese bitches.
    An alpine lord, eh. Cool. Here is a printable centering ruler can be downloaded and printed on adhesive backed stock. I just cut it and slapped it on a skiver/true bar for the image. I'm thinking about pre-printing stickers and have them available. You can put them on a steel or plastic scraper or other straight edge.

    One thing to realize on this ruler is that the dimensions are width of the measurement, not from the center. I probably ought to make one that is actual dimensions from center.

    Edit: I tweaked it to include both total width and actual mm ticks:
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    Regarding shipping to Canada, we can ship small items via Global Priority for around $15. 1st class can be a few bucks, but takes a while. As always, ordering more than a few small items spreads shipping cost over other stuff you need.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-02-2011 at 08:41 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    Thanks Terry!

    can't wait to get'em!

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,219
    Thank you BB. Hopefully, the Pony Express will get your plugs to you before the snow melts. I tossed in a Ski Centering Ruler sticker. Let me know if a millimeter in Canada is the same as in the US.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    Cool - awesome!

    As long as they get here by Feb I am happy! I am sure they will get here before Christmas anyhow.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,312
    I don't really get the elaborate methods for finding the centerline of the ski. Jondrums's templates have marks at each end that I can use to find the centerline of the ski confidently within 0.5 mm. That's within the tolerances of ski width and the drill bit walking around anyways. This really isn't that scientific.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    3,551
    Quote Originally Posted by bfree View Post
    I don't really get the elaborate methods for finding the centerline of the ski. Jondrums's templates have marks at each end that I can use to find the centerline of the ski confidently within 0.5 mm. That's within the tolerances of ski width and the drill bit walking around anyways. This really isn't that scientific.
    I'm pretty much on this page.

    I did the tape triangle / square / two points center-line thing a few times but have had just as much success using the center line on the templates and measuring with calipers to line things up.

    Measuring from the edge (of course) I line up the center-line above the toe to where the calipers read the same in both directions and get it taped into place, follow up with the center-line below the toe, double check the one in front, and then repeat the whole process with the heel.

    Before I drill I double check (measure with calipers) all the holes with their opposite-side counterparts to make sure they're the same distance from the edges and I'm good to go.

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Live Free or Die
    Posts
    2,094
    I posted this way back in 2009. I will repost it here:

    Okay, every home mounter has their own technique. Here's mine:

    Tools that I use:

    Tape measure, Digital calipers, sharpie with a good tip (don't use a worn out sharpie), drill bits (3.6 X 9 for non metal topsheet or 4.1 X 9 for skis with metal in the topsheet), water based glue like Roo Glue (I don't use epoxy), square, cordless drill (one with torque setting is a plus), posi drive bit, #3 philips head screw driver, counter sink bit (optional), center punch, hammer, binding template (seen above the caliper case. It's clear so it's hard too see), clamps (not shown in pics).

    Pics of tools:



    Almost left these out:



    Step 1: Beer



    Step 2: Mark center line on topsheet.



    Step 3: Drink beer.



    Step 4: Use square and mark center line with sharpie.



    Step 5: Verify centerline on both skis with tape measure. (No pic.) Measure from tip to center line mark on both skis. Make sure they are the same length. Don't bend the tape. Just straight line it. Then do the same thing measuring from the tails.

    Step 6: Identify width center point with calipers. For you retards, measure total width then divide by 2. Mark the center of the ski with sharpie.





    Step 7: Drink beer.



    Step 8: Do the same as step 6 for the toe piece and then again for the heel.






    Step 9: Clamp template making sure center cross, toe center mark and heel center mark all line up with the center lines of your template.



    Step 10: Punch to mark where to drill.



    Step 11: Drill where you punched the topsheet.



    Step 12: Counter sink the holes (not too much you fucking retard).



    Step 13: Put the glue in the holes (semen works as well).



    Step 14: Drink beer.



    Step 15: Screw in the bindings by hand using your #3 phillips or posi-drive screw driver. If you're using a drill, make sure your torque isn't set too high (Stay in the 9 - 10 torque range.) Set the screws half way, then back them out to make sure the bindings are being mounted flush. If you can see light under the base of the bindings, back the screws out and tighten again to ensure a flush mount (glue squeeze out is a good thing.)



    Step 16: You're done. Finish all your beer.






    If you still can't figure it out from this, you're a fucking retard.
    Dollar sign that bitch.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    --->
    Posts
    479
    Drilled roughly 20 skis by myself/ with other people saved a ton of money by using the templates. Its a skill I will never forget/ loose and a skill that everyone should learn.
    Quote Originally Posted by adria33 View Post
    I ride alone so I don't get held back by dead weights and dead beats. It's not always like that, but I destroy most skiers on the pistes.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    Thanks achtung. Great step-by-step. For me a mounting Jong makes me a bit nervous about fucking up skis. But the more I read and seeing your "do-it-yourself" guide makes it seem much more simple.

    Now just waiting for my drill bits and countersinks from jondrums.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    177
    I for one have never fucked up a mount, and I am somewhere in the thousands. We charge 40 bucks for mounting and it is one of the thins that I would not suggest the layperson do on their own because of the chance to fuck shit up and have to bring it in for a repair. It is cheap insurance imho.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,449
    Quote Originally Posted by pfranc View Post
    i am confused about binding monting loaction. if ball of foot center of running surface center is best base line (even as a base to determine fore / aft locations), why do manufacturers mark center of ski boot instead of ball of foot center? seems like boot center could easily vary loaction of ball of foot 1 - 2cm on ski depending on shell size. here are a couple articles - thanks
    Well, basically, because that byzantine system is not necessarily the best system for determining binding mount location. If you're that worried about it, get some Schizo bindings. But otherwise, trust that the ski companies know more than you, armchair amigo, and mount at boot center.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Westchester, NY
    Posts
    197
    I bought a pair of new Maestros this past fall and mounted up some dukes using the template I found here on TGR. I made my own jig with a piece of plywood, basically did the exact same thing that ACHTUNG described, the plexiglass looks sweeter though. I used the recommended mounting point that Bluehouse gave me. Haven't had a chance to take these out yet but can't wait.

    Saved me 75 bones after my local shop also started upcharging for mounting bindings that weren't bought at the shop.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Revy
    Posts
    72
    75 bones is insane. we charge 35 and that includes a calibration.

    The bottom of the binding plate is flat, why do people countersink?

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    291
    To prevent volcano eruption of the top sheet when putting the screws in.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    409
    ^^^^ Shops don't countersink. They don't care what kind of glue they're using. They always use a jig and jigs wear out over time. Do you want your skis to be one of the dozen pairs that go out the door drilled off a worn out jig that's no longer staying aligned correctly? IME, shops will continue to use a jig until enough customers complain that their jig is screwed. By then it's too late if your skis were one of the victims.

    Don't depend on shops to handle any kind of custom requests. They have a tough enough time just mounting correctly on the factory mark. Even the good shops run into problems because everyone learns which shops are the good ones and they get overrun by the volume of work. They are pressured to get more done in less time. That's not the kind of attention I want for my ski mount.

    If you don't think mounts get screwed up that often, think about how many posts we see every season about these problems (and not just on this forum). Then realize that only a small percentage of the bad mounts actually get posted to Internet forums and then there's the jongs that have no clue they even have a fucked up mount.

    With the availability of mount templates and the requirement of only simple tools (and some intelligence), I just don't get why more people don't do their own mounts.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    First mount successful! Put some dukes on EHPs

    One more to go later this week.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  23. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    59
    Achtung - thanks for posting man, that is some helpful shit

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    457
    Quote Originally Posted by Wild4umlauts View Post
    ^^^^ Shops don't countersink. They don't care what kind of glue they're using.

    With the availability of mount templates and the requirement of only simple tools (and some intelligence), I just don't get why more people don't do their own mounts.
    Mounting is pretty damned easy. I suppose if someone is worried they will screw their skis over then get a cheap older pair for a first run. With half a brain I essentially did the same steps as ACHTUNG did without even reading his post. I grabbed an old scrap piece of plexiglass laying around and made a template for mounting my BD 01s in no time. And thanks to mntlion, I was able to mount them on a cheap pair of skis which saved me some dough (about $50 for the last mount) and got me some skis to learn how to "elegantly" drop-a-knee.

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by pfranc View Post
    i am confused about binding monting loaction. if ball of foot center of running surface center is best base line (even as a base to determine fore / aft locations), why do manufacturers mark center of ski boot instead of ball of foot center? seems like boot center could easily vary loaction of ball of foot 1 - 2cm on ski depending on shell size. here are a couple articles - thanks

    www.lous.ca/Tech%20Articles/BindPosArticle09.pdf

    www.realskiers.com/ski-bindings.htm
    Thinking about it way too much.

    JUST GO FUCKING SKIING !!!

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