PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[ASmileyFace]

Going to have to disagree on that one... I've seen the true centre of a ski mis-marked by 2 or 3cm. That's a lot.

Agreed. Certain brands seemed to come with recommended marks all over the place. Some are better than others, but I've found incorrectly marked skis with nearly every brand. It's worth double checking no matter what.

[SoVT Joey]

On which skis does the manufacturer put a ski center mark? I've mounted dozens of pairs and I have never come across a ski center mark.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.new...rum/amp/857434

that third response is correct. Chord is the effective edge center of the ski. Where as true center is true tip to tail.

[djhutch]

Whoa, I just started reading this thread one page ago. Someone (or lots of someones) must have discussed in the last two hundred plus pages the difference between a ski's true center versus the manufacturer's recommended mount line - which is where a ski company's thinks/suggests might be the best place to put your boot's center on that ski (the rec mount line is marked, scribed, indented, outdented, on the top sheet or sidewall). The only skis that these lines are in remotely the same place is on a dedicated park ski, see Newschoolers for more discussion on mounting boot center on ski center.

If you don't understand the difference between where the manufacturer suggests your boot center should go and what a ski's true center is, you many want to rethink mounting your own fucking skis, or maybe just STFU (so very TGR of me to converse in this annoying, in yer face style). Or, please school me.

I am still curious how ppl measure true center and their preferred mount point (i.e., where they like their boot center) vis a vis true center. Of the ten pairs of skis I still ski, the biggest difference are my Cho Oyu's where the rec mount line is -13.7 which would be considered very directional/old school by today's norms.

[XXX-er]

I guess you can wank off about what the line or arrow recomended for mounting by the mfger in the center-ish of almost very ski means and they are there if you choose not to be overly obtuse

but i am only suggesting one should measure from tail to get wtf those lines mean or wherever you want to mount even from the tail or whatever measurement you want to use cuz sometimes they are printed un-even on the ski top

and then you can wank off some more about your drill press

[stealurface831]

I am still curious how ppl measure true center and their preferred mount point (i.e., where they like their boot center) vis a vis true center.

IME, true center is irrelevant for all but the steeziest of park planks. And people ignore it accordingly. The only current freeride/alpine skis i can think of that reference true center are the renegades, ravens, and hojis, all of which use that wack ass formula.

[SoVT Joey]

Whoa, I just started reading this thread one page ago. Someone (or lots of someones) must have discussed in the last two hundred plus pages the difference between a ski's true center versus the manufacturer's recommended mount line - which is where a ski company's thinks/suggests might be the best place to put your boot's center on that ski (the rec mount line is marked, scribed, indented, outdented, on the top sheet or sidewall). The only skis that these lines are in remotely the same place is on a dedicated park ski, see Newschoolers for more discussion on mounting boot center on ski center.

If you don't understand the difference between where the manufacturer suggests your boot center should go and what a ski's true center is, you many want to rethink mounting your own fucking skis, or maybe just STFU (so very TGR of me to converse in this annoying, in yer face style). Or, please school me.

I am still curious how ppl measure true center and their preferred mount point (i.e., where they like their boot center) vis a vis true center. Of the ten pairs of skis I still ski, the biggest difference are my Cho Oyu's where the rec mount line is -13.7 which would be considered very directional/old school by today's norms.

you should do some more reading. It has been discussed also about 17,000,000 times on here about mount point. Mount point has to do with construction of the ski and the center of the turning radius of the ski. You can mount a traditional ski in the center but it’s going to ski like shit or maybe not, or maybe you won’t notice because you ski like shit. I like a -7 - -9 mount point. This is all learned by mounting and moving and skiing tons of different skis. So your question has a million answers.

and using a fucking drill press is ridiculous. Mounting a pair of skis should take 10 minutes unless you are fucking with inserts or some other bullshit. but this is a process that has been done by countless pot heads and drunks in the wee hours of the
morning all over the world, so it’s certainly not heart surgery, and it’s definitely being over thought.

[detrusor]

^^^^
This


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[PB]

Pretty sure it was settled sometime back in the last century that the mfg mark was merely a nuanced suggestion, to be adjusted as per personal taste, so wanking is acceptable. Drill press wanking, however, seems uncalled for, unless you engrave your bindings with it.

[SumJongGuy]

If I worked n a shop I'd SOOOO prefer people like that, overthinkers, mount their own fucking skis. No matter how you do it with their best interests and procedure in mind, they will second guess your work over and over and will never be happy with the results no matter how fucking perfect it came out...

[Cocximus]

Anh tips for preventing drill bit drift in overlapping holes?

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[XXX-er]

how ever where ever you mount skis mount them evenly altho the last ski i mounted I mounted mismatched and ski bro sez he can't tell the difference

Cuz you could only mount in a few places Dynafit stokes with the inserts for tech bindings did not have any mark at ski center ( or wtf you wana call it ) which was an issue on a really short BSL so i checked another set of stokes and ski center ( or wtf you wana call it ) was at the " made in austria " screening so I went with that mark which i checked by measuring from tail

[Supermoon]

Anh tips for preventing drill bit drift in overlapping holes?

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Start with a small bit, then work your way up to a larger bit. Center punching doesn't always work, but really small bits do ok

[rfconroy]

Anh tips for preventing drill bit drift in overlapping holes?

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If I am overlapping holes I am usually using a hardwood plug + an insert to increase the surface area for the mount. That + the plastic jigs I use for mounting has not created any issues of drill bits walking during a drilling operation.

[Cocximus]

If I am overlapping holes I am usually using a hardwood plug + an insert to increase the surface area for the mount. That + the plastic jigs I use for mounting has not created any issues of drill bits walking during a drilling operation.

Oh yes you made those sweet jigs. I will have to figure out how to change yours to the vario 2.

I guess another option would be to use a burr with a drill press. Those should not deflect.

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[waveshello]

I just finished mounting these bad bois.

I went 1.5cm behind the line, or 3.5cm behind true center. Skiing switch more often is my aspirational goal this season.



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[XXX-er]

https://www.wildsnow.com/32546/how-m...ll-in-a-ski-2/

a recent artical from wild snow where they talk to some ski mfgers, the coles notes version is all the mfgers say ... don't overlap holes

[noslow]

I just finished mounting these bad bois.

I went 1.5cm behind the line, or 3.5cm behind true center. Skiing switch more often is my aspirational goal this season.



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Awesome skis, you’ll love them! So glad so many were able to grab these at such an insane deal. You got one of the last few pairs of 183cm.
Most have been pretty good but check that the base is flat and that the edge bevels are uniform.

[SirVicSmasher]

I just finished mounting these bad bois.

I went 1.5cm behind the line, or 3.5cm behind true center. Skiing switch more often is my aspirational goal this season.



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Why wouldn't you mount on the line or fwd if you wanted ski switch more?

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[waveshello]

Awesome skis, you’ll love them! So glad so many were able to grab these at such an insane deal. You got one of the last few pairs of 183cm.
Most have been pretty good but check that the base is flat and that the edge bevels are uniform.

Thank you for the PSA. I was on the hunt for something sub 100mm and I'm stoked on these! Looking forward to the next high pressure window.

Why wouldn't you mount on the line or fwd if you wanted ski switch more?

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Factory line is almost at center, so I'm only 3.5cm from center, and I'm definitely not NS enough to go forward of the line!

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[Jonathan S.]

Anybody here want some dull 4.1mm drill bits?
(Mix of 9.0mm and 9.5mm, and if you care about that distinction, then you probably aren't interested in dull bits.)
Say, a buck each plus actual shipping cost 01002.
I know, why would anyone want dull 4.1mm drill bits, since that size is used exclusively for drilling skis with metal, for which you want a sharp drill bit.
But if anyone would ever want these, I figure those people would be reading this thread!
And you could use a sharper/newer 3.5/3.6mm to drill the hole initially, then enlarge it with a dull 4.1mm, so not entirely worthless.
(As for how I ended up with so many dull 4.1mm bits, after assembling my own setup years ago, I bought out a Sports Authority backshop with many extra drill bits, and each season I mount lots of Hagan skimo race skis with very strong internal mounting plates.)

[Shorty_J]

Ok... Hole "overlap".

If the spacing on my target binding is about 2 mm wider than the existing holes, has anyone reused those same holes? I would love to re use some holes but the spacing is not perfect.

I know it's not ideal... Looking for first hand experience.

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[Cocximus]

I put new tyrolia demo bindings in old tyrolia demo holes. Dunno exactly what is the difference but hole to hole it was probably around 2. I'm sure there's plenty of botched installs that are o6f by more.

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[waxloaf]

Ok... Hole "overlap".

If the spacing on my target binding is about 2 mm wider than the existing holes, has anyone reused those same holes? I would love to re use some holes but the spacing is not perfect.

I know it's not ideal... Looking for first hand experience.

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I think I’ve done it with holes that are 1mm off, but maybe 2. In your situation I’d do it - rather have the screws go in a little off kilter than put new holes in the ski.

[Toddball]

Ok... Hole "overlap".

If the spacing on my target binding is about 2 mm wider than the existing holes, has anyone reused those same holes? I would love to re use some holes but the spacing is not perfect.

I know it's not ideal... Looking for first hand experience.

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I've mounted 22 Designs Lynx (38 x 38 mm) into a Salomon MTN toe pattern (40 mm W x 38 mm L) , and it works okay. I redrilled the MTN pattern for inserts, though, and tried to set the inserts at around 39 mm W x 38 mm L, right in between the two patterns. Pretty sure the spacing ended up being about the same as the original MTN pattern, but both bindings work in the inserts. The 22D bindings use low-head (counterbored) rather than flathead (countersunk) screws, which means they are slightly more accommodating to pattern mismatch as long as the screw heads are a bit smaller than the counterbore on the binding.

YMMV, tho

[skibum00]

I can’t figure out how I screwed this mount up. Mounting a pair of Tyrolia Attack 14’s. I downloaded the templates, double checked the size scaling and it was dead on:


I lined up the ski center line and lined up the 335 boot sole length number on the template with the mounting line I was mounting to on the ski:


Bindings were perfectly centered width wise and the forward pressure was spot on right off the bat. However the boot center line marked on the boot is 7 mm forward of the mounting line on the ski that I was mounting to. I took the binding off and checked the template again and the BSL of 335 on the template is right on the mounting line on the ski and the mounting holes are exactly where marked. Why would this be 7mm forward of the mounting line, what am I screwing up or forgetting?


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