PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[rfconroy]

For sure. But I thought rfconroy was talking about filling holes that wouldn't conflict with others.

In either case, I'll probably make the switch to wooden plugs so I won't have to worry about conflicts at all anymore. Thanks for the link!

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I use it for about 50% of my open holes. I would rather stick a wood plug into a previous hole rather than filling with epoxy even if Im not overlapping or getting close to a previous hole. In reality, I should get some plastic plugs in the event I need to pull them out.

The thing that throws me off with the Tognar/BF hardwood plugs is how tapered they are along the entire length of the plug. Whereas a bamboo skewer or the hardwood plugs I've been making by hand are fairly straight.

Here's what I've been making:



...but yeah it takes me about 30 min to knock out ~ 18 of them. So I usually throw on a good ski movie, crack a beer and go to town.


Also as a heads up - for those using a hardwood plugs in order to "Snowman" a previous mount for an insert. The density difference, and different fiber orientation of the plug makes tapping it somewhat challenging, and requires more down pressure than you would in a virgin hole.

[El Chupacabra]

I use blunted wood golf tees for filling old holes, with some wood glue stuffed in the holes. Blunt the tip of a new pointy tee or it can poke a dimple out of the base when you hammer it in.

Cut off the tee with a dremel, and then dremel the stub down flush with the top sheet. Dab paint on the plug for sealing the wood. Can get several plugs out of a tee. The wood is undoubtedly softer than an oak dowel, but they fit perfectly without needing to sand the diameter down to fit.

I'll use the plastic ones on rock skis.

[Pinned]

i had heard that. i'll break out the dremel and give it a shot.
would that mean i'd have to grind down those specific screws to match?

Binding Freedom specs everything with 4mm of thread engagement, but their inserts have ~6mm of threaded depth. Easy test is to have 5 full rotations of the machine screw (.8 pitch * 5 turns = 4mm) or slightly more. Be your own Rabbi on the acceptable tolerances outside of that, I'd try to shoot for more thread engagement being better.

[XXX-er]

I wondered if it was you! But I was too lazy to figure it out.

I thought you were just famous for AQS and dryer sheet squares!
[Honestly, I admire the courage to try weird stuff and write about it. Sometimes that weird stuff works out well and we all benefit for it.]

Famous or infamous ?

yeah so on the AQS file a guy pays me pretty well to keep a large inventory of drysuits very dry, he also charges customers for my work, buddy even gives me a cheese basket every x-mas, I save him time & make him money

the rebuilding of binding screw threads with slowset & fibreglass was also my hack, yeah a helicoil would also work but I didn't have one and, it was a dark and stormy night ...

the big thing is my hacks have all worked for me and some TGR'ers or I wouldn't post them

what I do is not really that weird, now the stuff Swissiphic used to do that was all weird,

[XXX-er]

A ski is more or less a piece of 1x4 so its a pretty good medium to do the destructive testing,

drill 2 holes 2 inches a part, then double the size of those holes, bend it till it breaks where do you think the 1x4 is gona break ?

You can seal up the hole but I don't think you can restore the structural integrity of the wood grain with BBQ skewers/ golf tee's/ wooden plugs ,

more holes together will cut/ weaken more wood grain, pushed to destruction its gona break where the holes are, I assert that overlapping holes are not a good idea so move the binding 1 cm

[Fejj]

Mounted my own fucking skis. Stoked. That is all.


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[mr_pretzel]

Fucking sick. Pm me when you want to sell those rens

[arild]

Fucking sick. Pm me when you want to sell those rens

Hahaha. Vultures are circling...

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[surfboard]

First mount. Quite stoked and don’t know why I didn’t start doing this years ago lol.

[dgilligan02]

Mount my own fucking skis inserts for STH2 job #5. Acquiring a jig + roto tool + experience has greatly increased project results.

Thanks for the thread knowledge.

[Pinned]

Mount my own fucking skis inserts for STH2 job #5. Acquiring a jig + roto tool + experience has greatly increased project results.

Thanks for the thread knowledge.

With STH2s specifically, check how much engagement you're getting out of the screws. You want about 5 full rotations / 4mm. Binding Freedom's stated specification was too short IME.

[dgilligan02]

With STH2s specifically, check how much engagement you're getting out of the screws. You want about 5 full rotations / 4mm. Binding Freedom's stated specification was too short IME.

Sage advice, waiting on screws inbound from BF right now.

Have been running for a few years with these in the toes. No issues IMO.

https://www.mcmaster.com/94017A312/

Actually can’t recall where I got the heel screws

[ezramec]

A ski is more or less a piece of 1x4 so its a pretty good medium to do the destructive testing,

drill 2 holes 2 inches a part, then double the size of those holes, bend it till it breaks where do you think the 1x4 is gona break ?

You can seal up the hole but I don't think you can restore the structural integrity of the wood grain with BBQ skewers/ golf tee's/ wooden plugs ,

more holes together will cut/ weaken more wood grain, pushed to destruction its gona break where the holes are, I assert that overlapping holes are not a good idea so move the binding 1 cm

Have been thinking about this as someone who has not yet MYOFS, and have a pair of DPS with two mounts right where I need the third.

The bbq skewers reminds me of a pretty popular cabinet (and other) wood patching trick - if you have a cabinet screw hole that starts to fail, you bundle up a few toothpicks with wood glue in the original whole. Good for a cabinet but I don’t know enough about my bindings to trust it for reusing/overlapping something with as much pressure as I’ll put on my skis.

[XXX-er]

Have been thinking about this as someone who has not yet MYOFS, and have a pair of DPS with two mounts right where I need the third.

The bbq skewers reminds me of a pretty popular cabinet (and other) wood patching trick - if you have a cabinet screw hole that starts to fail, you bundle up a few toothpicks with wood glue in the original whole. Good for a cabinet but I don’t know enough about my bindings to trust it for reusing/overlapping something with as much pressure as I’ll put on my skis.

well maybe yer an engineer or SFT or just using the brain, I'm not an engineer but trust me I can tell you how shit breaks

move the binding 1 cm if you can cuz you won't notice it

oh and never trust a guy who sez trust me

[Duffman]

So what's the consensus on the best way for those that are not maestros with the drill and don't have access to a drill press to not fuck this up royally? My biggest concern is drilling crooked and or off center.

[Robik]

So what's the consensus on the best way for those that are not maestros with the drill and don't have access to a drill press to not fuck this up royally? My biggest concern is drilling crooked and or off center.

Drillblock.

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[TexasGortex]

I picked up a drill press cheaply and haven’t regretted it. Harbor Freight and used are two cheap options. It does take up a lot of space though. I have a workshop so it’s fine, but if I was space limited it wouldn’t be one of the essentials I keep. I’d probably just get a drill block, use it twice, then start eyeballing it.

[sweatypowderpig]

So what's the consensus on the best way for those that are not maestros with the drill and don't have access to a drill press to not fuck this up royally? My biggest concern is drilling crooked and or off center.

i'm very happy with the self centering block sold by BF. secure with a woodworking clamp and good to go.

[ntblanks]

Either block/guide with a clamp.

[OJ204]

Probably a question that has been answered before. I think one of the screws lifted the top sheet and I can fit 0.5mm feeler gauge between the binding and top sheet around one of the front binding screws. Is this something I should fix now or just keep skiing until issues appear?

[gregorys]

So what's the consensus on the best way for those that are not maestros with the drill and don't have access to a drill press to not fuck this up royally? My biggest concern is drilling crooked and or off center.

If you're not doing tech toes, or inserts - just eyeball it. (Tech toes and inserts are very sensitive to less than ideal placement, being straight up and down, etc. So these are kind of special cases.)

I drill everything freehand, and tap freehand too. (Most all my skis have metal, so I tap them too. I even tap with the drill.)
As long as you're modestly careful, it should be just fine.

If you're extra worried, put a square on the topsheet and eyeball it against the drill to help get as fully perpendicular as possible.

[rfconroy]

Probably a question that has been answered before. I think one of the screws lifted the top sheet and I can fit 0.5mm feeler gauge between the binding and top sheet around one of the front binding screws. Is this something I should fix now or just keep skiing until issues appear?

I could nerd out on why, but there's your answer.

[dgilligan02]

So what's the consensus on the best way for those that are not maestros with the drill and don't have access to a drill press to not fuck this up royally? My biggest concern is drilling crooked and or off center.

As others have said, before landing a jig I used the drill block/BF centering block to get both the drilling and tapping perpendicular-ish.

[OJ204]

I could nerd out on why, but there's your answer.

Thanks, done, better now. Just shaved the deformation around the screw holes. I still don’t like remounting.

[Fejj]

Hotel room mount complete. Hoji quiver coming together. Gold pivots would have been epic but raws were on sale.


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