PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[Shorty_J]

Bout to mount my kids fucking skis and notice that the recommended bit states it wants a stepped 3.5/4.1 bit. I've got both sizes and would prefer to use what i've got instead of buying another, but will do that if advised. It appears that the prior mount just used a 4.1 as that bit fits in the hole as far as it goes, but doesn't necessarily mean they did it right. Can I just use the 4.1 or should I just get through the topsheet w the 4.1 and then go full depth with the 3.5 (or buy the bit that is recommended)?

Do they say what bit depth to use?

Often kids skis are thinner cores and want a 7mm depth instead of 9mm.

If that's the case I personally would want a tighter fit on the screw (3.5) for most of the hole and just the 4.1 at the top... so I like your last suggestion.

[rudy]

Do they say what bit depth to use?

Often kids skis are thinner cores and want a 7mm depth instead of 9mm.

If that's the case I personally would want a tighter fit on the screw (3.5) for most of the hole and just the 4.1 at the top... so I like your last suggestion.

They actually list the following
step drill system - 3.5/4.1 x 9.5

[Shorty_J]

They actually list the following
step drill system - 3.5/4.1 x 9.5

Yeah then I'm not really sure what the point of that would be.

Is there metal in the topsheet?

The closest thing to following their recommendations would be drill full depth with a 3.5 and then just the very top with a 4.1 but I'm confused by their recommendations.

[Alpinord]

They actually list the following
step drill system - 3.5/4.1 x 9.5

Yeah then I'm not really sure what the point of that would be.

Is there metal in the topsheet?

The closest thing to following their recommendations would be drill full depth with a 3.5 and then just the very top with a 4.1 but I'm confused by their recommendations.

Shorty, you sound a little confused on the stepped drill dimensions. The total tip length is 9.5mm. The first half or so is 3.5mm which drills through the top sheet and into the core the full 9.5mm, unless you stop it sooner. The upper half or so is 4.1mm, which widens the hole at the top sheet to allow the shaft of the alpine screw clearance to slide though without expanding the hole if it's carbon, metal or any other material. The section of the screw into the core, expands the core because the shaft is wider than the drill hole.

So for Rudy or anyone else wishing to 'replicate' the stepped drill, drill to the recommended depth (and not through the base) with a 3.5mm drill. You can then get a sense of the top sheet thickness so you can set a stop on a 4.1mm tipped drill bit to drill through the top sheet only. Tap and mount. Do a test drive on a wood scrap if uncertain.

[rudy]

Makes sense and appreciated

[arild]

P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!

Haven't FKS and Pivot been the same since about forever? Or are you thinking of the weird Pivot/axials that existed about 15 years ago?

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[JayPowHound]

Hey collective, got a question. Helped out my neighbor Sunday, he's leaving for the holiday and needed a rush job done on two pair of Mantras. Got them mounted but I didn't have any epoxy on hand for the screws so they went in dry. Figured he'd be good for a week, but I told him to come back after the new year and we'd back them out, epoxy the holes and remount them. After sleeping on it, I'm not convinced backing them out, epoxying and remounting in the same holes is the best course of action.

So what say you maggots: Is it worse to mount screws without epoxy in a wood/metal core ski and leave it like that, or worse to reuse screw holes in a wood/metal core and epoxy them in to seal it up? Is this a 'better to run or walk in the rain' discussion?

P.S. New Look Pivot heels use the FKS template, not the pivot template. Double check your templates before drilling kids!

Best shop around here (SkiMD) is run by Mike de Santis, former Volkl World Cup ski tech.

He unmounts bindings for every stone grind he does.

He's also obviously an expert at remounting without fucking it up, but still....

[Shorty_J]

Shorty, you sound a little confused on the stepped drill dimensions. The total tip length is 9.5mm. The first half or so is 3.5mm which drills through the top sheet and into the core the full 9.5mm, unless you stop it sooner. The upper half or so is 4.1mm, which widens the hole at the top sheet to allow the shaft of the alpine screw clearance to slide though without expanding the hole if it's carbon, metal or any other material. The section of the screw into the core, expands the core because the shaft is wider than the drill hole.

So for Rudy or anyone else wishing to 'replicate' the stepped drill, drill to the recommended depth (and not through the base) with a 3.5mm drill. You can then get a sense of the top sheet thickness so you can set a stop on a 4.1mm tipped drill bit to drill through the top sheet only. Tap and mount. Do a test drive on a wood scrap if uncertain.

Yeah thats what I meant but maybe failed on conveying it... thanks for clearing it up.

The thing I am most confused about is why a step bit would even be called for, I guess. 4.1 and tap seems to be the standard for metal so I'm not grasping why they call for a step bit and my questions were more trying to ascertain the point of that requirement before I had a recommendation.

[Dee Hubbs]

Yeah thats what I meant but maybe failed on conveying it... thanks for clearing it up.

The thing I am most confused about is why a step bit would even be called for, I guess. 4.1 and tap seems to be the standard for metal so I'm not grasping why they call for a step bit and my questions were more trying to ascertain the point of that requirement before I had a recommendation.

The 4.1 requirement is realistically only needed for the topsheet. So why drill the 4.1mm hole all the way into the core? Some manufactures have determined that 3.5mm is the optimal sized hole into their cores, but still require a 4.1 hole in the top sheet. Therefore the need for a 4.1mm -3.5mm stepped bit.
Armada had a horrible season in 2011-2012 with screw pull outs and made sure all their shops were provided with 4.1-3.5 stepped bits.

[rudy]

The 4.1 requirement is realistically only needed for the topsheet. So why drill the 4.1mm hole all the way into the core? Some manufactures have determined that 3.5mm is the optimal sized hole into their cores, but still require a 4.1 hole in the top sheet. Therefore the need for a 4.1mm -3.5mm stepped bit.
Armada had a horrible season in 2011-2012 with screw pull outs and made sure all their shops were provided with 4.1-3.5 stepped bits.

Interestingly enough this is on a pair of Armadas

[Shorty_J]

The 4.1 requirement is realistically only needed for the topsheet. So why drill the 4.1mm hole all the way into the core? Some manufactures have determined that 3.5mm is the optimal sized hole into their cores, but still require a 4.1 hole in the top sheet. Therefore the need for a 4.1mm -3.5mm stepped bit.
Armada had a horrible season in 2011-2012 with screw pull outs and made sure all their shops were provided with 4.1-3.5 stepped bits.

Interesting.

Is the AB tap too big for a 3.5mm hole? If not you could just drill and tap?

Also, I chamfer the top of the holes on every mount I do regardless of bit diameter. If the point is to avoid a "volcanoe", no special tools are needed IMO... just the correct ski bit (debatable) and a chamfer bit.

Having said that I don't have a lot of experience with carbon Fibre in skis so maybe I'm off base here?

[Dee Hubbs]

Also, I chamfer the top of the holes on every mount I do regardless of bit diameter. If the point is to avoid a "volcanoe", no special tools are needed IMO... just the correct ski bit (debatable) and a chamfer bit.

Most ski bits have a chamfer built in to them, just get a bit with the chamfer, and you can eliminate a step of using a separate chamfering bit.
Check your bit, it ma have a chamfer on it already.

[Brasso]

Haven't FKS and Pivot been the same since about forever? Or are you thinking of the weird Pivot/axials that existed about 15 years ago?

Sent fra min LYA-L29 via Tapatalk

Basically the second thing you said. He's talking about the naming convention on the template files

[Shorty_J]

Most ski bits have a chamfer built in to them, just get a bit with the chamfer, and you can eliminate a step of using a separate chamfering bit.
Check your bit, it ma have a chamfer on it already.

Mine just has a shoulder/stop... keeps you from over drilling and takes some extra material down to flat, bit doesn't chamfer.

All good... it's a 1 minute addition to a mount, at most.

[Alpinord]

Shorty, you sound a little confused on the stepped drill dimensions. The total tip length is 9.5mm. The first half or so is 3.5mm which drills through the top sheet and into the core the full 9.5mm, unless you stop it sooner. The upper half or so is 4.1mm, which widens the hole at the top sheet to allow the shaft of the alpine screw clearance to slide though without expanding the hole if it's carbon, metal or any other material. The section of the screw into the core, expands the core because the shaft is wider than the drill hole.

So for Rudy or anyone else wishing to 'replicate' the stepped drill, drill to the recommended depth (and not through the base) with a 3.5mm drill. You can then get a sense of the top sheet thickness so you can set a stop on a 4.1mm tipped drill bit to drill through the top sheet only. Tap and mount. Do a test drive on a wood scrap if uncertain.

Graphically:



Depending on the angle, the bit may appear more like a taper vs the definite step. The 4.1mm section measures 4mm long.

[m5d5cb]

Have a pair of Rustler 11's coming to mount. Would like to order a drill/tap in advance. Mounted one pair of skis before this.

I didn't use a tap on my last mount and I can see where it would help to just go through the topsheet to prevent it from trying to delaminate or mushroom. Plus these have metal. So I want to use a tap this go around.

A few questions:
With a metal sheet under foot, are these Ø4.1x9.5mm spec? Can't find a photo where the size is legible.
Should I go ahead and use a 3.5/4.1 x 9.5 for the 4.1 in metal but 3.5 in core?
Which bit types add a chamfer? Snoli, Wintersteiger?
When using a Snoli thread cutter 12AB tap, do you just tap through the metal or topsheet, or full depth?
If using a tap, does it make sense to ever use a 3.5mm drill? (if the tap shank matches a screw shank at 4mm)

[Alpinord]

Have a pair of Rustler 11's coming to mount. Would like to order a drill/tap in advance. Mounted one pair of skis before this.

I didn't use a tap on my last mount and I can see where it would help to just go through the topsheet to prevent it from trying to delaminate or mushroom. Plus these have metal. So I want to use a tap this go around.

A few questions:
With a metal sheet under foot, are these Ø4.1x9.5mm spec? Can't find a photo where the size is legible.
Should I go ahead and use a 3.5/4.1 x 9.5 for the 4.1 in metal but 3.5 in core?
Which bit types add a chamfer? Snoli, Wintersteiger?
When using a Snoli thread cutter 12AB tap, do you just tap through the metal or topsheet, or full depth?
If using a tap, does it make sense to ever use a 3.5mm drill? (if the tap shank matches a screw shank at 4mm)

The Snoli bits add a chamfer. As stated above, I’m currently seeing the double step bit as a win/win option, especially for metal and carbon topsheets. The tap could go full SCREW depth but at least get through the top sheet plus a couple turns to make a screw thread path through the topsheet.


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[Timberridge]

My personal opinion is tapping is unnecessary into wood cores--go ahead quote on how some study said otherwise and I don't care. Just buy the Armada style stepped bit for for your metal top skis and spend the $ you saved on not buying a tap on a new file or something.

[skifishbum]

my brofessional opinions
yours overs thinkins its
puff puff or sip sip drill n screw n ski
if anyone could help venture a guess on a mounting point of a bro 187 fat
im gonna mmofs today ifin i gits all the needy peeps stuffs done
id use my phone a friend option
buts i aint real sure where that bro is these days

but wish him the best

[Timberridge]

Splat sacrificed a lot for those, treat them with respect.

[rudy]

I'm sure this has been asked and answered buy maybe not. I always run into issues with the binding wanting to pull up and off the ski when I'm screwing the bindings onto the ski. I'm fairly certain that it is due to the fact that the thread in the binding (in this case a Dynafit ST) is not lined up with the thread in the ski (I did tap the ski thinking this would eliminate this problem). My thought to remedy this was to use a drill bit to remove the thread in the binding so that I can then have the screw go directly into the thread in the ski and prevent it wanting to pull up. Any errors in my thinking?

Also, what is the best way to remove old glue or epoxy from screws or should I not worry about it?

[XXX-er]

Dynafit screws come captured in the binding plate so the plastic plate is being held off the ski as you do up the screws which is what I think causes yer problem

you could just drill out the holes in the plastic plate or clamp the plate to the ski for tightening the screws

My buddy hit a stump at low tide, his Vertical toe piece dissapeared in a foot of pow, when he found that toe piece next spring the screws were so captured they were all still in the plastic baseplate but they were very rusty so I took em out and cleaned em with a wire brush and re-instaled

a rotary wire brush chucked in a drill also works well for rust or old epoxy or just scrape it off with a knife

[XXX-er]

my brofessional opinions yours overs thinkins its]

as some random no-it-all-wanker on the internet I have always suspected as much

[swissbro]

I have a full bankart repaired shoulder from those bindings. I think a full 13 release value is equip to like a 5 on any other brand. Good luck!!

I had a pair that would just fall off my foot when I would lift my heel when making a turn.


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[m5d5cb]

The Snoli bits add a chamfer. As stated above, I’m currently seeing the double step bit as a win/win option, especially for metal and carbon topsheets. The tap could go full SCREW depth but at least get through the top sheet plus a couple turns to make a screw thread path through the topsheet.

Ok. One potential concern with the stepped bit is they are 9.5mm length instead of 9mm?