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  1. #4701
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,021
    As far screws not going all the way in. Dynafits are notorious for tight screw holes in the binding plate. The appear to snug up but it’s snugging into the binding plate. I run a reamer or bit into the plate so the screw doesn’t engage. A pain if your SFB and mount a gillion skis and the screws are loose but at home it prevents this.


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    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  2. #4702
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by mufasa5446 View Post
    I think it’s a deep enough hole but I’ll double check that. I guess I finally have enough reasons to buy a hair dryer? Or heat up the screw with a soldering iron?

    Thanks.

    Assuming hole is deep enough, do I still need to redrill to get the epoxy out and put in a new screw with new epoxy? Ideally I only have to remove the one screw and can leave the binding on.

    That’s also assuming it needs to remedied. Seems sketchy to me. The screw seems secure but I haven’t tried wrench on it much yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    1) I've never had to heat a screw to remove with epoxy. (I certainly haven't done many dozens, but probably at least a dozen or two. I do all my mounts with epoxy.) While I'm sure it's helpful, and perhaps required in some situations, I wouldn't say it's always required. IME, (and just mine) it's never required.

    2) Redrilling the hole; That's more sketchy. You'll probably have to deepen it a touch, to get the screw in further. Try to take as little material from the sides as possible, and add more epoxy.

    3) As for leaving it. Well, I'd probably want it snug. It might not cause any issues the way it is, but I would simply feel better with it tight.

  3. #4703
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,717
    Alright, I know this has been discussed many times before but I can’t find it. Mounting on a Prodigy 2.0. Calls for a 3.6x9.0 hole. The bit I normally use is a 9.5. Too long right? In danger of puckering the base? I can go buy a 9.0 if necessary. Would be good to have.

    Thoughts?


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  4. #4704
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    582
    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    Alright, I know this has been discussed many times before but I can’t find it. Mounting on a Prodigy 2.0. Calls for a 3.6x9.0 hole. The bit I normally use is a 9.5. Too long right? In danger of puckering the base? I can go buy a 9.0 if necessary. Would be good to have.

    Thoughts?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I have quite a few 3.5x9’s — happy to send you one.


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  5. #4705
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,717
    Quote Originally Posted by French Pizza View Post
    I have quite a few 3.5x9’s — happy to send you one.


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    PM’d

  6. #4706
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Inside the Circle
    Posts
    4,189
    My most challenging mount your own fucking skis project.

    Have a pair of 2021 Elan Ripstick 96s that check every block for me here in Vermont. Great to tour on, great in the inbounds trees, phenomenal in moguls, carve decently for a 96 waisted ski.

    Originally mounted with Vipec Evos but I'm skiing them more inbounds. Wanted the ability to swap out alpine clamps and Kokomas just sent me a bunch of inserts and M5s.

    Problem is, I fucked up the Vipec mount and had the heels too far back (enough adjustment but just barely) so the forward heel holes on the Tyrolia Attack2 14 ATs are just too close (mounting for 310mm BSL) to the Vipec holes. Toes are no issue. So I put the Tyrolias on a 2x4 and noted that I could mount the Tyrolia toes at 310 and the heels at 295 and there was plenty of adjustment to move them backward to fit the boots. Boot sole center is still on the mark because the toes were mounted for the right BSL. This arrangement gave me about 15mm between holes. Inserts went in fine so now I am a happy camper.

    Nobody will want to buy them because of the franken mount but I'll likely ski these until they are toast.

  7. #4707
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Collins
    Posts
    771
    Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest View Post
    My most challenging mount your own fucking skis project.

    Have a pair of 2021 Elan Ripstick 96s that check every block for me here in Vermont. Great to tour on, great in the inbounds trees, phenomenal in moguls, carve decently for a 96 waisted ski.

    Originally mounted with Vipec Evos but I'm skiing them more inbounds. Wanted the ability to swap out alpine clamps and Kokomas just sent me a bunch of inserts and M5s.

    Problem is, I fucked up the Vipec mount and had the heels too far back (enough adjustment but just barely) so the forward heel holes on the Tyrolia Attack2 14 ATs are just too close (mounting for 310mm BSL) to the Vipec holes. Toes are no issue. So I put the Tyrolias on a 2x4 and noted that I could mount the Tyrolia toes at 310 and the heels at 295 and there was plenty of adjustment to move them backward to fit the boots. Boot sole center is still on the mark because the toes were mounted for the right BSL. This arrangement gave me about 15mm between holes. Inserts went in fine so now I am a happy camper.

    Nobody will want to buy them because of the franken mount but I'll likely ski these until they are toast.
    Just own the frankenmount. Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #4708
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,549
    Can someone please help me figure out how to get the little tabs on the brakes into the holes on the heel on sth2 13 bindings?
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  9. #4709
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,408
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    Can someone please help me figure out how to get the little tabs on the brakes into the holes on the heel on sth2 13 bindings?
    If they're the same as warden brakes, then you come at it from above. The brake assembly is almost vertical from its installed position and you push it into the holes, I think it can take a *little* force here and it snaps into place, then rotate it forward until its flat with the bottom of the heel.

  10. #4710
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
    Posts
    2,208
    Angle/Pop down tabs into those 2 holes...and press down. It’s a feel thing....they can be stubborn...but they will go in. Keep trying..you’ll get....it’s so easy...it’s tricky....(if that makes sense)

  11. #4711
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,549
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. View Post
    Angle/Pop down tabs into those 2 holes...and press down. It’s a feel thing....they can be stubborn...but they will go in. Keep trying..you’ll get....it’s so easy...it’s tricky....(if that makes sense)
    Yes just pinched it in one side at a time. Was afraid of busting tabs but she went in
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  12. #4712
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
    Posts
    2,208

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    Yes just pinched it in one side at a time. Was afraid of busting tabs but she went in
    Great....yeah...they go in weird....have to kinda “feel” em’ in....lol.

  13. #4713
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,798
    Start with the tip, then put the whole thing in.

  14. #4714
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    2,391
    Thanks for the coffee computer screen wash!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  15. #4715
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    679
    I'm going to mount my own skis later - first time. I've got Binding Freedom inserts and screws, epoxy, the proper drill bit and bottoming tap. I printed out the templates from Binding Freedom. Will be using a digital mill to drill the holes so I don't over drill or anything like that.

    Two quick questions:
    1. My bindings are current model Look Pivot 14s. Do I want the template in this thread labeled as FKS or Look Pivot Axial? I thought the FKS and Pivot were the same thing.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...aper-Templates

    2. Is there any secret or extra step to mounting Pivots? I've read that if using a Jigarex that it needs to be adjust inwards 5mm between heel and toe mount - since I am using paper templates will I need to adjust anything or stick to the recommended 305mm for a 305mm BSL?

    Thanks everyone!

  16. #4716
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,798
    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    I'm going to mount my own skis later - first time. I've got Binding Freedom inserts and screws, epoxy, the proper drill bit and bottoming tap. I printed out the templates from Binding Freedom. Will be using a digital mill to drill the holes so I don't over drill or anything like that.

    Two quick questions:
    1. My bindings are current model Look Pivot 14s. Do I want the template in this thread labeled as FKS or Look Pivot Axial? I thought the FKS and Pivot were the same thing.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...aper-Templates

    2. Is there any secret or extra step to mounting Pivots? I've read that if using a Jigarex that it needs to be adjust inwards 5mm between heel and toe mount - since I am using paper templates will I need to adjust anything or stick to the recommended 305mm for a 305mm BSL?

    Thanks everyone!
    Print both and whichever one matches your binding holes is the one you use. Printing on a transparent sheet will make your life even easier. To ensure the bsl marks are what you're after, mount a 2x4 first with said template. If the heel ends you where you want it to be in the range of it's travel, use whatever bsl you marked for on your actual ski mount. If it doesn't, adjust the heel placement only. Always double check that the center mark on your boot ends up on the mounting point you desire too before drilling to ensure proper toe placement.

    Once you have a template you trust, never throw it away. Just use a sharpie through the holes you punched with your first test mount. Using the punch repeatedly hogs out the holes and ruins your template.

    Also, be sure to spray those inserts down with brake cleaner before you ever screw them into the ski. Machining oil doesn't stick to epoxy.

    Post em up when you're done.

  17. #4717
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    334
    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post

    2. Is there any secret or extra step to mounting Pivots? I've read that if using a Jigarex that it needs to be adjust inwards 5mm between heel and toe mount - since I am using paper templates will I need to adjust anything or stick to the recommended 305mm for a 305mm BSL?

    Thanks everyone!
    I haven’t mounted to those bindings, but I have used the jigarex. I’m not sure why using a jigarex would change where you place the holes-that doesn’t make sense to me.



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  18. #4718
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    679
    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Print both and whichever one matches your binding holes is the one you use. Printing on a transparent sheet will make your life even easier. To ensure the bsl marks are what you're after, mount a 2x4 first with said template. If the heel ends you where you want it to be in the range of it's travel, use whatever bsl you marked for on your actual ski mount. If it doesn't, adjust the heel placement only. Always double check that the center mark on your boot ends up on the mounting point you desire too before drilling to ensure proper toe placement.

    Once you have a template you trust, never throw it away. Just use a sharpie through the holes you punched with your first test mount. Using the punch repeatedly hogs out the holes and ruins your template.

    Also, be sure to spray those inserts down with brake cleaner before you ever screw them into the ski. Machining oil doesn't stick to epoxy.

    Post em up when you're done.
    Good tips, thank you! I'll grab a section of 2x4 and do a test mount and degrease the inserts.

    To determine if the mount point is good in relation to heel travel, is there something specific I'm looking for? Or just that the boot seats nicely in the binding? Unfortunately the little documentation that comes with the bindings doesn't give any info at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by mufasa5446 View Post
    I haven’t mounted to those bindings, but I have used the jigarex. I’m not sure why using a jigarex would change where you place the holes-that doesn’t make sense to me.
    I'd read that you wanted the jigarex set 5mm shorter than recommended for Pivots - read this a few places but no explanation as to why. Wanted to be sure there isn't some sort of hidden trick with mounting that I'm missing is all.

  19. #4719
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,244
    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Once you have a template you trust, never throw it away. Just use a sharpie through the holes you punched with your first test mount.
    Man that's some good advice. I've thrown away too many paper templates. I'm going to keep a folder/notebook in the garage to store templates.

    The only downside I can foresee is that the fresh pinhole on the paper template provides some positive centering for the punch, and you don't get that when you try to center a punch in a sharpie dot.

    Your method begs the question--why punch through the template at all, why not just sharpie through the pin hole the first time for a smaller dot and greater precision on future mounts?

    Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

  20. #4720
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,798
    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    Good tips, thank you! I'll grab a section of 2x4 and do a test mount and degrease the inserts.

    To determine if the mount point is good in relation to heel travel, is there something specific I'm looking for? Or just that the boot seats nicely in the binding? Unfortunately the little documentation that comes with the bindings doesn't give any info at all.


    I'd read that you wanted the jigarex set 5mm shorter than recommended for Pivots - read this a few places but no explanation as to why. Wanted to be sure there isn't some sort of hidden trick with mounting that I'm missing is all.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=308131

    This thread is how you set your forward pressure the right way. Some great advice in here. As far as placement, I usually mount my heel so with proper forward pressure I am dead middle of the travel range for the heel. Personal preference is the only reason I have for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by waveshello View Post
    Man that's some good advice. I've thrown away too many paper templates. I'm going to keep a folder/notebook in the garage to store templates.

    The only downside I can foresee is that the fresh pinhole on the paper template provides some positive centering for the punch, and you don't get that when you try to center a punch in a sharpie dot.

    Your method begs the question--why punch through the template at all, why not just sharpie through the pin hole the first time for a smaller dot and greater precision on future mounts?

    Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
    I have a sharp ass punch. Its a small hole.

    And yeah on the folder idea. I have a fuckton of templates saved in my shop. They never wear out and come in handy when friends bring random shit to me for mounts they don't want fucked up. Can't trust the shop hoodlums in my region for shit.

  21. #4721
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fernie and/or Smithers
    Posts
    1,488
    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    Do I want the template in this thread labeled as FKS or Look Pivot Axial? I thought the FKS and Pivot were the same thing.
    IIRC some holes on the Look template are off by ~1mm, go with FKS.

  22. #4722
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,056
    use the actual binding for the template

    so far its alwasy been correct
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #4723
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,244
    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=308131

    This thread is how you set your forward pressure the right way. Some great advice in here. As far as placement, I usually mount my heel so with proper forward pressure I am dead middle of the travel range for the heel. Personal preference is the only reason I have for that. I have a sharp ass punch. Its a small hole.

    And yeah on the folder idea. I have a fuckton of templates saved in my shop. They never wear out and come in handy when friends bring random shit to me for mounts they don't want fucked up. Can't trust the shop hoodlums in my region for shit.
    K that makes sense. My punch is sharp but the taper is sudden so it leaves a bigger hole in the paper. Not much but it easily doubles the size of the pinhole.

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  24. #4724
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    131
    Got my NW_Skier -> WhetherMan double hand me down Woodsman 108s mounted. Very stoked to try them this weekend.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  25. #4725
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    159
    I'm starting to get the impression that the rules about filling holes and mounting bindings close to old holes are just guidelines. Which is nice, if true.

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