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  1. #4576
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    900
    Anyone know if the Look NX shares the same hole pattern as the SPX?


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  2. #4577
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    2,391
    Quote Originally Posted by slowroastin View Post
    Anyone know if the Look NX shares the same hole pattern as the SPX?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    They use the same jig so yes

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  3. #4578
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    900
    Quote Originally Posted by prsboogie View Post
    They use the same jig so yes

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Thanks, found a pair of skis with broken NX’s. Would like to use existing holes and a better binding for her.


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  4. #4579
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    4,528
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    got around to mounting these new (to me) freerides with some tectons this afternoon and am not disappointed by the results. had some fuckery with the powderguide template, however. when printing, i selected 100% scale and made sure to turn all autofill options off. i've used this template in the past without issue but i made sure to measure the little 1cm segment it gives to confirm accuracy. it was in fact 1 cm. after getting ready it all laid out, i was about to go in with the drill but decided to line up the holes of the binding with the hole locations on the template. wouldn't ya know, they were completely off. after going back and reprinting i found that in the advanced settings of print options was something about paper size and for some reason my computer defaulted to a size other than standard US. i'd never had this happen before even with this particular template but i was sure glad i lined up the holes. curious to know if this has happened to anyone else.
    swing your fucking sword.

  5. #4580
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	359022

    got around to mounting these new (to me) freerides with some tectons this afternoon and am not disappointed by the results. had some fuckery with the powderguide template, however. when printing, i selected 100% scale and made sure to turn all autofill options off. i've used this template in the past without issue but i made sure to measure the little 1cm segment it gives to confirm accuracy. it was in fact 1 cm. after getting ready it all laid out, i was about to go in with the drill but decided to line up the holes of the binding with the hole locations on the template. wouldn't ya know, they were completely off. after going back and reprinting i found that in the advanced settings of print options was something about paper size and for some reason my computer defaulted to a size other than standard US. i'd never had this happen before even with this particular template but i was sure glad i lined up the holes. curious to know if this has happened to anyone else.
    and you're pointing tips to the left, right?

  6. #4581
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    4,528
    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    and you're pointing tips to the left, right?
    tips to the left from here on out
    swing your fucking sword.

  7. #4582
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    832
    I'm sure this has been discussed before, but searching is failing me. What are the best methods for removing a quiver killer insert with the intent to plug the hole after?

  8. #4583
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    I'm sure this has been discussed before, but searching is failing me. What are the best methods for removing a quiver killer insert with the intent to plug the hole after?
    You need to apply heat to soften the epoxy (I'd first try a soldering iron). If it's a BF insert, once softened, you can use a screwdriver or the installation tool to back it out. If it's QK, you can try the screw with two nuts and lock that down into the insert.

  9. #4584
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    151
    I am inspired by this thread to mount my own skis instead of waiting 4 days for the local shop to mess them up during a powder dump.

    Does anyone have feedback on mounting position for 2021 Elan Ripstick 96?

    I found the PDF tech manual for 19/20, and says 810mm from rear for the 181cm. I don't know if this value corresponds to the center line because it does not specify. The 2021 ski design changed and is also 180cm long now. Can't find the tech manual for 2021.

    The side of the 2021 ski has tick marks for RIDE (means center I guess?) and lines up to +3 / -4. Just measure to center on both skis to see if there is top sheet variation and use the same value on both?

    The 19/20 tech manual also says Ø4.1x9.0mm drill for Ripstick 96 but 3.6 for Ripstick 86. I am a bit surprised it is 4.1 and not 3.6 for the 96, as there is no metal in the ski. Thoughts?

  10. #4585
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    I'm sure this has been discussed before, but searching is failing me. What are the best methods for removing a quiver killer insert with the intent to plug the hole after?
    As mentioned, heat with a soldering iron to soften the epoxy. How long you need to go is going to depend on how hot your iron gets, but something like 20 seconds of direct contact in the middle of the insert should do it. Start shorter and work up to more heat until you find what works.

    As far as actually removing them goes, by far my preferred technique is to get an M5 SHCS and a nylock nut, and thread the nut on with the crown / nylon insert side pointing down, towards the ski. The crown fits into the insert nicely and doesn't rub on the topsheet. Thread it in by hand, give the nut 1/4 turn tighter with a box wrench while holding the SHCS still with an allen key, and then spin the insert back out using the allen key in the SHCS. Super easy.

  11. #4586
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,289
    Quote Originally Posted by davjr96 View Post
    I'm sure this has been discussed before, but searching is failing me. What are the best methods for removing a quiver killer insert with the intent to plug the hole after?
    I reckon the ski will be stronger leaving the insert in as opposed to removal & plugging etc. Or are you planning to remount partly within the plug?

  12. #4587
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    832
    Thanks all! I've got a pretty good soldering iron from my E.E. school days so will plan to put that to work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    I reckon the ski will be stronger leaving the insert in as opposed to removal & plugging etc. Or are you planning to remount partly within the plug?
    I don't have the bindings or templates/printer in hand currently to tell, just the ski and a measuring tape. It's possible there will be no conflict, or a small overlap. If there is no conflict I will probably leave it in. If there is a small overlap I will remove and see if using a regular, rescue, or different mount point makes the most sense.

  13. #4588
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    As mentioned, heat with a soldering iron to soften the epoxy. How long you need to go is going to depend on how hot your iron gets, but something like 20 seconds of direct contact in the middle of the insert should do it. Start shorter and work up to more heat until you find what works.

    As far as actually removing them goes, by far my preferred technique is to get an M5 SHCS and a nylock nut, and thread the nut on with the crown / nylon insert side pointing down, towards the ski. The crown fits into the insert nicely and doesn't rub on the topsheet. Thread it in by hand, give the nut 1/4 turn tighter with a box wrench while holding the SHCS still with an allen key, and then spin the insert back out using the allen key in the SHCS. Super easy.
    yeah this ^^ 20 seconds of soldering iron on any stubbborn screw BEFORE you strip the head,

    even if its not epoxied 20 sec of heat can free up the stuck screw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #4589
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,446
    Has anyone ever used a release agent (aka trewax) on the binder screws when using epoxy? That's what I've always used when I'm epoxying the shit out of stuff (yes, real epoxy - marine tex).

  15. #4590
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,785
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    Praxis Lhasa Fat
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    Praxis Kusala
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  16. #4591
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,446
    That's a proper shop area - bottle opener, stickers, girlie calendar...

  17. #4592
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vacationland
    Posts
    5,911
    Probably as good a thread as any of the pivot related choices for this question.

    Just got new boots and the walk lever hits the indicator window on the pivot dildo.

    What are the odds I smash the lens?

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  18. #4593
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    super high odds, are you really sposed to be using that boot in that binding?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #4594
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vacationland
    Posts
    5,911
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    super high odds, are you really sposed to be using that boot in that binding?
    Grip walk boot + grip walk pivot, seemed like a compatible couple on paper.

    Just got the boot, glad I did a dry fit before realizing this at the lift.


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  20. #4595
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    Not a lot of clearnace, I think under normal conditions that ski and binding would flex into the indicator window ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #4596
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vacationland
    Posts
    5,911
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Not a lot of clearnace, I think under normal conditions that ski and binding would flex into the indicator window ?
    That’s what I thought. I put a sheet of paper between the two and it ripped trying to pull it out.

    Fortunately I have more boots, kinda throws a wet blanket on my simplistic plan of a tech/GW compatible quiver.

    It’s like SRAM v Shimano on snow.



    Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen

  22. #4597
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,864
    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    Probably as good a thread as any of the pivot related choices for this question.

    Just got new boots and the walk lever hits the indicator window on the pivot dildo.

    What are the odds I smash the lens?

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    Tighten your forward pressure up a little bit, and the dildoe will not stand up as straight.

  23. #4598
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    there ya go ^^ the downlow from the fucking pro

    other than some look 37's i had 40yars ago i am unfamiliar with the look product but shop guy told me if you twist the toe piece and the boot returns to center the preload is right

    even rhymes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #4599
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vacationland
    Posts
    5,911
    Muchos Gracias Dee.

    I figured this was like the Ask The Experts thread from sprockets.


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  25. #4600
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fernie and/or Smithers
    Posts
    1,483
    Experts eh?

    I disagree with Dee’s suggestion. The dildo angle is not ‘adjustable’. Sure you could overtighten the forward pressure to resolve your problem but you’d end up with just that: too much forward pressure. Plus you’d be a few degrees closer to release, increasing the risk of a prerelease. And as a bonus, over time, you’ll wear the spring plunger/pivot bushing interface.

    Temporary fix? Maybe.
    Long term solution? No.

    Bummer your boots aren’t compatible with Pivots.

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