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  1. #4551
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    12,167
    that being said i do tape open holes before sending them into the carwash tuner
    and it works tape would probably work depending on temp and snow conditions
    until it didnt
    i like a slightly smaller bit and if you see wood and not plastic
    that could comprimise threads
    ive also used the drywall screw 1/2 way in and lever out
    but i prefer drill and remove
    i dont glue plugs myself but know some who do
    im at mill creek most afternoons 2-4 ish
    and im on the workend warrior schedule and around on weekends
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    yikes man

    also when i was doing my QK jobs on already mounted skis i was kinda blown away by how many corners i saw that shops had cut. like HUGE volcanos, poorly trimmed plugs, mounts that weren't on true center, all sorts of shit

    these are reputable ski shops who have great reputations & such, not trying to shit talk em, but it does reinforce the old "if you want something done right you should do it yourself" adage
    i missed this
    ya know it and roofin aint exactly road scholar career paths or ida not gotten sucked in
    not everyone cares the same at certain times
    or has been taught the right way
    nor is as anal

    i did catch the gentelman part
    just cause i didnt mention your old ladies rack
    dont mean i didnt oogle

    and im disapointed in ullr bout now
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  2. #4552
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    625
    re: collar stops on drill bits

    I'm trying to figure out how to take up some room around my 3.6mm bit so a 4mm collar holds firm and stays square. it's a c-type/split ring collar like these:
    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SY1000_.jpg

    tried painters tape and there's too much slop.

    any ideas?

  3. #4553
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stumptown
    Posts
    6,422
    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    re: collar stops on drill bits

    I'm trying to figure out how to take up some room around my 3.6mm bit so a 4mm collar holds firm and stays square. it's a c-type/split ring collar like these:
    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SY1000_.jpg

    tried painters tape and there's too much slop.

    any ideas?
    small piece of an aluminum can?

  4. #4554
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    625
    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    small piece of an aluminum can?
    good idea. worth a try.

  5. #4555
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    96
    is the 7mm rule pretty hard and fast when redrilling close to old holes, or can you steelwoolepoxybambooskewer your way out of a deathtrap of a ski when mounting again?

  6. #4556
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    22,231
    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    re: collar stops on drill bits

    I'm trying to figure out how to take up some room around my 3.6mm bit so a 4mm collar holds firm and stays square. it's a c-type/split ring collar like these:
    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SY1000_.jpg

    tried painters tape and there's too much slop.

    any ideas?
    collars or tape will shift on the drill bit

    so instead drill thru a piece of wood and slide the bit in/out in the chuck till you got the depth you want

    its fool proof cuz if the bit loosens you just don't drill as far

    a wine cork is the perfect sized piece of wood, a drill with a cord even has reverse a big thing back then, life in the ghetto's of narthern BC eh

    a good thing to do it put an old washer between the drill chuck and the cork just in case it scours off the cork you could drill too deep

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by XXX-er; 01-11-2021 at 12:51 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #4557
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    250
    Thx on the cork idea... used that last night on my practice round. Handy. Kept dremmeling the cork down to get it just right
    Another jong confirm question - when tapping with a t-handle, when the tap stops and the handle still turns around the tap, I assume I'm bottomed out in the hole? And that's my sign vs having to put tape or a stop on the tap
    Thx again all

  8. #4558
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    22,231
    Quote Originally Posted by m104da View Post
    Thx on the cork idea... used that last night on my practice round. Handy. Kept dremmeling the cork down to get it just right
    So the idea is to just slip the bit up or down in the drill chuck till you got the right amount of drill bit sticking out the end of the cork and tighten the chuck so there is no need to cut or dremel anything

    the reason for using a cork was that when i was looking for something to use it was about the right size to do this with a 5/32nds drill bit but you could use any piece of wood that is 1 1/2 or 2 inches thick

    you could even make it into a drill guide if you can get the drill bit very perpendicular to the ski
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #4559
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    966
    Quote Originally Posted by m104da View Post
    Another jong confirm question - when tapping with a t-handle, when the tap stops and the handle still turns around the tap, I assume I'm bottomed out in the hole? And that's my sign vs having to put tape or a stop on the tap
    Thx again all
    I stop when I start to feel an increase in resistance - about 4 turns with my tap. Paint the tap at 9mm if you're paranoid.

  10. #4560
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    250
    ^^^thx both

  11. #4561
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    162

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    First time doing a pair of skis, wasn’t even that bad
    Armada vjj 175 with atk free raider 14 2.0 mounted ~ -1.5cm from recommended line
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    Welcome back hockey

    My life is better than your dreams
    Last edited by GrantN; 01-15-2021 at 09:44 AM.

  12. #4562
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    625
    looks like it's rookie night.

    mounted my first new/undrilled ski. took forever. measure 7 times, drill once. learned some things and next ski will go faster. have some questions which I'll post separately.

  13. #4563
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by m104da View Post
    Another jong confirm question - when tapping with a t-handle, when the tap stops and the handle still turns around the tap, I assume I'm bottomed out in the hole? And that's my sign vs having to put tape or a stop on the tap
    Thx again all
    ???? The T handle shouldn't be able to spin around the tap. If it does, the tap's jaws aren't tight enough. You hit bottom when you can feel the resistance. When you do it a few times, you'll be able to count rotations to know when you should get there.

    And, if you want to go to the gold standard, you should first use a taper tap before the bottom tap.

  14. #4564
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    207
    Fat fish and fat fishscales:
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  15. #4565
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    14,002
    nice
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  16. #4566
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,526
    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    looks like it's rookie night.

    mounted my first new/undrilled ski. took forever. measure 7 times, drill once. learned some things and next ski will go faster. have some questions which I'll post separately.
    great job. if you're not doing inserts, there's really no need for the bit guide. unless you have no practice drilling straight
    single? always know what to say with Keys
    www.thekeysapp.com

  17. #4567
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    625
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    great job. if you're not doing inserts, there's really no need for the bit guide. unless you have no practice drilling straight
    yeah, possibly overkill. once i get the hang if it all i could see going freehand.

  18. #4568
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    250
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    ???? The T handle shouldn't be able to spin around the tap. If it does, the tap's jaws aren't tight enough.
    Yes, you're right. I somehow didn't have it clamped on the squared off end!
    But I managed to put inserts into one broken old practice ski and all went pretty well - except for one where the insert didn't "drop" and it felt like I was using too much force to get it to thread in. We'll see

  19. #4569
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    On the mountain
    Posts
    578
    Mounted my own fucking skis, again. Gotta love the Jigarex and how easy/fast it makes things go.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #4570
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    250
    One more question (for now!), and hypothetical (also for now!)... Still doing some practicing putting inserts into some old beater skis. In one case, the two rear toe holes were a few mm's too far forward, just enough that those two rear screws wouldn't go in straight. (Lesson learned to better check that punch hole is spot on, looking down through binding hole.) Anyway, if this screw up was on a real ski, would be ok to drill out the binding hole slightly bigger so the screw could align? I already drilled the holes out a bit so that the screws can drop through. Thx again

  21. #4571
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,139
    Quote Originally Posted by m104da View Post
    One more question (for now!), and hypothetical (also for now!)... Still doing some practicing putting inserts into some old beater skis. In one case, the two rear toe holes were a few mm's too far forward, just enough that those two rear screws wouldn't go in straight. (Lesson learned to better check that punch hole is spot on, looking down through binding hole.) Anyway, if this screw up was on a real ski, would be ok to drill out the binding hole slightly bigger so the screw could align? I already drilled the holes out a bit so that the screws can drop through. Thx again
    Well, if it was my ski, I would (and did) plug and re-drill. I had a wandering drill bit issue due to drilling near an old hole. I plugged with fiberglass and epoxy and re-drilled in this Swiss Cheese Holes Thread.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  22. #4572
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    250
    ^^^got it, thank you

  23. #4573
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    2,139
    New Moment Bella's in 162 for our 11 yo granddaughter. She was able to demo them for three days before pulling the trigger. Being a racer I wondered how she would like a 108 underfoot ski when she spends a lot of time on narrow race boards. Took her 40 seconds to figure them out. Short slalom turns, big sweeping GS turns, did not matter. Only thing left is an opportunity to ski some powder with them but I doubt that will be an issue. This is our 16th pair of Moment skis, maybe a little OCD...Click image for larger version. 

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  24. #4574
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    111
    On3p Wren108ti - the build quality is second to none! Can't wait to test them.

    P.S. Serial # is 007
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  25. #4575
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,526
    Clean inserts.
    single? always know what to say with Keys
    www.thekeysapp.com

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