PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[1000-oaks]

Ugh still annoyed at that mount.

I obviously shouldn’t care that the heel piece is slightly of center, about 3mm. Right?

One fix would be to find someone with a mill, and have them mill new 1/4" holes as close to the centerline of ski as possible (overlapping the old holes), and install inserts. If you don't fully erase the original 4mm holes, you could be centered. Fill the old holes with G/flex before milling, so you don't have a small hole alongside the inserts.

[AZskibum]

The rear toe locations will be very close so you'll have to move the Pivot mount back a tad:

Attachment 331940

Thanks! I guess now is the best time to swap out my attacks.

[3PinGrin]

My new favorite binding mounting adhesive is gorilla construction adhesive. Waterproof, stays flexible, easy to use, and the bindings I recently removed showed no sign of water intrusion. The screws backed right out, super easy to apply, no mixing, not brittle like titebond iii, so far so good.

[motogreg]

just to add to this thread, remounted some bindings on some skis today, the previous mount done by a shop was not only more than 5 mm off center but crooked too....

[bigdude2468]

Looking for a paper template for Salomon Warden binding. When I checked on SlideWright / Binding Freedom they show one template for all Salomon bindings except Guardian. Is that correct? I have not purchased the bindings yet so I can't print it and check

[waxloaf]

Looking for a paper template for Salomon Warden binding. When I checked on SlideWright / Binding Freedom they show one template for all Salomon bindings except Guardian. Is that correct? I have not purchased the bindings yet so I can't print it and check

Warden 11 or 13? They have diff patterns.

See the google drive here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...yYY6Gg2a3Dd245

Warden 11 is its own template on there, and Warden 13 shares 6/8 holes with STH2 and they share a template as well.

[revolutionrock]

Well, I fucked up in a way... think this is my 15th pair of skis I mount.
I printed both the template for fks and look pivot/axial 2 at work, I have only mounted pivots once before so wasnt sure which one to use.

The first ski was no problem mounting. But some how I took the template for axial/pivot for the heel on the second ski... so the only option was to use the two front holes and mount the heel pice about 5mm more forward since i already had drilled the holes...

The ocd person in me says that i need to move the heel pice on both skis forward...
I dont think i will notice any difference.. But I will still think about it.
Should I leave it as it is?
So fucking stupid

Fml

[dgilligan02]

But some how I took the template for axial/pivot for the heel on the second ski... so the only option was to use the two front holes and mount the heel pice about 5mm more forward since i already had drilled the holes...

If I’ve followed...toes are in the same intended spot on both skis. One heel is a bit forward, but you still have room to adjust back its position on track for your BSL and proper tension. Good to go IMO. You’ll stop thinking about it after a while.

[revolutionrock]

If I’ve followed...toes are in the same intended spot on both skis. One heel is a bit forward, but you still have room to adjust back its position on track for your BSL and proper tension. Good to go IMO. You’ll stop thinking about it after a while.

Correct, the toes are in the right spot.
One heel will be ~5mm more forwards.

Don’t know how this affects the ski, when I over think about it I visualise that the ski will bend different when carving, since its 5mm of to the contact point.

But I realise that its just in my brain..
Feel so stupid about this, it isn’t my first mount...


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[waxloaf]

If toes are in the same place you wont notice a thing. As long as they can adjust to fit your boots you’re in good shape.


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[PlayItLeo]

Agree with the above. Toes in the same spot and you’re good to go.


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[motogreg]

yeah the 5mm will be adjusted with the tension adjustment, it's no problem

[revolutionrock]

[Bobcat Sig]

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Mmmm.... see-through green Lange boot steeze. I wish my first-year RX 130s lasted longer.

[waxoff]

Mmmm.... see-through green Lange boot steeze. I wish my first-year RX 130s lasted longer.

Yeah, the only benefit of fewer days on the hill per season is that shit last longer... Which is not a solely good thing when you come to think of it.

[Reformed]

I spent some time in the shop dialing in my approach to marking ski centre last night. I saw this approach mentioned somewhere previously in this thread and decided to try it. I've used a number of different ways to find and mark centre (or thereabouts...) in the past, but was never happy with any of them and will be using this method going forward. It's quick, accurate, repeatable and doesn't require any tools that most people don't already have.
Step #1 - put the end of a second combo square onto a combo square and use as calipers to transfer the base width of the ski to the topsheet

Step #2 - Use calipers to get an accurate measurement of the ski's base width

Step #3 - Divide the measurement by two, adjust caliper, place caliper on one of the square ends and mark the centre of the ski. Double check by measuring from the opposite square end.

Repeat these steps at a location forward and behind boot centre on the ski, connect the marks with a straight edge and you are ready to layout your mounting pattern and drill some holes.

[dgilligan02]

I spent some time in the shop dialing in my approach to marking ski centre last night. I saw this approach mentioned somewhere previously in this thread and decided to try it. I've used a number of different ways to find and mark centre (or thereabouts...) in the past, but was never happy with any of them and will be using this method going forward. It's quick, accurate, repeatable and doesn't require any tools that most people don't already have.

Yep, this has worked great on the couple I’ve mounted for finding center.

[~mikey b]

this centering tool Slidewright makes is pretty sweet





Slidewright is a Maggot owned company - you should buy mounting, repairing, tuning and waxing equipment here - you can get a Maggot discount

www.slidewright.com

[Reformed]

this centering tool Slidewright makes is pretty sweet





Slidewright is a Maggot owned company - you should buy mounting, repairing, tuning and waxing equipment here - you can get a Maggot discount

www.slidewright.com

I agree 100% and had a cart full of odds and sods from Terry’s shop the other day. Shipping costs to Canada and our weak dollar forced me to reconsider. It’s hard to justify paying more for shipping than the purchase price of an order. Options for purchasing mounting tools etc in Canada are pretty limited though, so shops south of the border still end up getting business from me. If any of these businesses can figure out a cheaper/slower/whatever way to serve mags north of the border I’m sure lots of us would support them more than we currently do.

[tgapp]

hey guys long time jong lurker here, first time caller - but I figure that ignorance only a problem if you don't seek to address it.

I wanna mount my own sticks but I'm not the most mechanical guy (I don't have a drill press). Beyond the basics - hand drill, slide wright centering tool (looks rad), the right bits, wood glue etc, is there anything else I need?

obvs I'm gonna do a ton of 2x4 mounts first but if there are some awesome (cheap) shortcuts here I would love to learn about em.

thanks for any help you can give, my jong ass appreciated it. looking forward to mounting my own fucking skis.

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[waxloaf]

^^ just take your time and do a couple practice runs, its not that hard, just a little intimidating.

A few additional thoughts:

Its helpful to have some kind of punch (alpine center punch from slidewright is great) to mark where you’re going to drill. Can use blue painters tape under the template so the dimples show up better.

I use clear packing tape to “laminate” the areas of my paper template that see the most use, like where the hole locations are.

A set of calipers (can get em cheap from amazon) is super helpful too for checking that hole locations are solid. You can check them against the edge to make sure you’re centered, and also check the distance between the holes to make sure you’re consistent with the template. As Terry (slidewright/alpinord) says, 1mm off or less isn’t bad, but don’t want to be off by more than that.

If your skis have metal you’ll need a tap.

I like Terry’s sticker for finding center (I have mine on a steel scraper) - I have found it to be the easiest and cheapest way, and it gets me as close as all the other methods on here. Just mark 3-4 points in the binding area and connect them with a straight edge.

Have good beer or whiskey on hand


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[tgapp]

^^ just take your time and do a couple practice runs, its not that hard, just a little intimidating.

A few additional thoughts:

Its helpful to have some kind of punch (alpine center punch from slidewright is great) to mark where you’re going to drill. Can use blue painters tape under the template so the dimples show up better.

I use clear packing tape to “laminate” the areas of my paper template that see the most use, like where the hole locations are.

A set of calipers (can get em cheap from amazon) is super helpful too for checking that hole locations are solid. You can check them against the edge to make sure you’re centered, and also check the distance between the holes to make sure you’re consistent with the template. As Terry (slidewright/alpinord) says, 1mm off or less isn’t bad, but don’t want to be off by more than that.

If your skis have metal you’ll need a tap.

I like Terry’s sticker for finding center (I have mine on a steel scraper) - I have found it to be the easiest and cheapest way, and it gets me as close as all the other methods on here. Just mark 3-4 points in the binding area and connect them with a straight edge.

Have good beer or whiskey on hand


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^^this is all super helpful, thanks for the beta. I'll get the rite stuff together (punch etc) and give this a go when my binders show up. really appreciate it!

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[skifishbum]

hey guys long time jong lurker here, first time caller - but I figure that ignorance only a problem if you don't seek to address it.

I wanna mount my own sticks but I'm not the most mechanical guy (I don't have a drill press). Beyond the basics - hand drill, slide wright centering tool (looks rad), the right bits, wood glue etc, is there anything else I need?

obvs I'm gonna do a ton of 2x4 mounts first but if there are some awesome (cheap) shortcuts here I would love to learn about em.

thanks for any help you can give, my jong ass appreciated it. looking forward to mounting my own fucking skis.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

bring java beans and that im fuckin stoked on skiing attitude you displayed at the make believe show
that made a couple jaded locals smile and remember the im gonna ski on less than a foot of base days
and ill be happy to help or lend ya jigs/tools

[~mikey b]

fkna

[doebedoe]

To add to waxloaf --

How I find the center line:
- Slidewright centering sticker -- put on a straight edge and laid on top.
- Use a set of calipers underneath the ski, ends/jaws pointing up so it overlaps with centering sticker. Make sure color on each jaw matches (centering sticker changes color every mm).
- Mark 4-5 spots along binding mount area using above.
- Connect with a long straight edge.

Takes ~30 seconds per ski.

Other things I always do:

- Measure from tip or tail to mount location. Don't trust top sheets. Consistency is more important than precise location (within a couple mms) of where you want it.
- Throw the binding on the template on the ski, line up holes. Softly place boot in location to ensure I'm close to fit.
- Mount several alpine bindings before mounting tech bindings. Esp if you have heels w/o adjustment range.
-